Close



Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1

    Question How do I repair plastic threads? Hydraulic line female threads top cylinder convertib

    How do I repair plastic threads? Hydraulic line female threads top cylinder convertible, Loctite super glue gel?

    Super glue type gel would fill some gaps. But would it seal and hold under extreme hydraulic pressure?

    Does Loctite make a gap filling thread sealer, especially one for plastic to metal, maybe an epoxy?

    Should I superglue gel, then epoxy around the top threads?

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    Have pic ?

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,342

    Default

    It depends on the extent of the thread damage to what actions could take place to repair it. If we cold get a few pics of said area, it would make repair ideas easier.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  4. #4

    Default

    OK, I am thinking superglue gel and epoxy, Name:  IMG_9363.JPG
Views: 155
Size:  168.8 KBName:  IMG_9364.JPG
Views: 156
Size:  183.2 KBsecured with bailing wire.

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,342

    Default

    Ewww, I see now. That's going to be a bit of a complicated fix without just replacing the cylinder if all the threads are pulled out or missing like the top ones appear to be.

    Honestly, about the only "fix" that "might" hold there, due to the pressure, fluid and type of plastic would be using a Helicoil and hoping for the best. No guarantees there that it will work or the mating areas for the lines won't be damaged. Once the Helicoil was installed, the cross wire would have to be snipped to allow the hose end to mate with the cylinder.

    Not knowing for sure what type of plastic that part is made out of will make thinking about a "fluid" type repair sketchy at best. Super glues are very particular about what kind of plastics they are on, and even epoxies/putties have their limitations on what they will bond to also. Being a pressure part, and one that is not the easiest to access when mounted in the car, I would really ponder going the route of a new or used cylinder that has good threads. I don't know that a fluid fix would be worth the hassle, time and expense of trying it and possibly have the hose pop back out.

    I'm sure that this isn't really what you wanted to hear, but I don't know of any sure fire fix for it. Maybe someone has done it successfully before and will chime in.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 06-01-2017 at 10:35 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    2,274

    Default

    DuPont pipe dope.or thread sealer
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,342

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    DuPont pipe dope.or thread sealer
    ^^^^ That will also work as long as there are threads left to screw into. If you do and it is only the top few threads that are messed up, clean them up with a tap of the proper size/pitch and apply pipe dope. I like to use Rectorseal Tru-Blue as it is a thick vibration resistant dope/sealer.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    Not sure how much wall is there before it breaks out but you could make a sleeve with knurled outside wall and then glue it in and you could also mill some of that face down say 1/4 inch and tap the plate for that hydraulic thread and add (2) screws on the corners and you can only add a plate as thick as you mill it down so your hose ends and feed hole connect

    Not sure if it's worth all that trouble though compared to new unit if it were me I would make a insert tube possibly and you could even (pin) the tube in the plastic so it would act as a "anti rotate" and not free spinn in there but you can only pin it say half the wall or so of insert you can't drill through it of course

    Appears to be nylon for material

    Try to find the female fitting at a hydraulic store and take it to machine shop as a thought if glue doesn't work for you

  9. #9

    Default

    I like the helicoil idea backed up with JB Weld. To help take the pressure off the threads, cut some notches into the brass and plastic corners and then wrap some wire around the hose fitting and the plastic. Picture hanger wire is good. A couple of wraps around the mating parts then take the ends of the wire and twist them together. It will pull everything up tight. The notches will keep the wire from working loose.
    W

    As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Houston (Clear Lake), Texas
    Posts
    4,669

    Default

    Given the plastic lines and nylon top, I doubt there is much pressure on the system. That being said, Home Depot carries a 2 part putty that will cure under water...I keep some in my boats just in case... I have used it to plug holes and it works great. I would utilize that over a liquid epoxy in order to keep it out the the system and possibly plugging up something else.
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

    HAVE
    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride
    '08 Edge Limited white sand tri-coat metallic...tan leather...other daughters ride

  11. #11

    Default

    I kept putting globs of superglue gel on the male fitting threads and trying to screw it into the nylon female side. I tried a few times with it getting cockeyed, and finally gave up on the hand job… kidding couldn’t resist that pun. Glue was deposited and filled in threads on both sides. I couldn’t get 7/16 14 or 20 taps and dies to bite right, so I cleaned out the male threads and used that fitting as the tap. I installed a vice, and used a c-clamp to hold the pieces in final assembly position, and tapped the threads while installing the fitting. The c-clamp kept the sealing flange from the male fitting tight against the mating seal surface while I used an open end wrench to tap threads. I backed the fitting off, put liquid superglue around the shaft, tightened a turn, put jb weld epoxy around the threads, and tightened er down, then pressed epoxy into fitting thread interface. I used bailing or picture wire to tighten and secure everything in a fixed position, and covered sharp edges with duct tape.

    Name:  IMG_9365.JPG
Views: 142
Size:  165.6 KBName:  IMG_9366.JPG
Views: 140
Size:  162.8 KB

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Berea Ohio
    Posts
    724

    Default

    Super glue will most definitely NOT fix your problem, it just flat out doesn't work on engineering plastics (the "slippery" plastics) such as nylon and delrin, and when you mix in any kind of chemical contamination then it really sucks. Your best bet *might* be JB Weld but even that's a crapshoot. The one thing you absolutely have to do when using any adhesive is make sure all of the bonding area is spotlessly clean to ensure a good bond.
    1985 Mercury Marquis LTS... "The Unicorn"
    1978 Fairmont... 306 and a C4.

  13. #13
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,210

    Default

    8. No selling outside of the Classified areas. If you've something to offer to someone for free, or the cost of shipping, it's 'legal' to offer in the other areas. If you're dying to let someone know you have something they may want to purchase, then send them a Private Message OR an email via the board. Do NOT post an offer in a non-classified thread. Posts will be edited or removed by staff without warning.


    Please keep all offers to sell and buying to PM's. Otherwise post an ad in the Classified sections.

    Thanks!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  14. #14

    Default

    Thanks for all the good tips guys.

    O Ring is the solution. It was leaking around the shaft, the guy who said he would sell me 2 top cylinders for $25 flaked out. So, I looked for a replacement. I saw that the guys selling new ones were including o rings. I did not recall any o rings when I replaced the broken hoses. So, I clipped my retaining wires, and tightened the fitting… still leaking. I unscrewed the fitting, installed o ring, screwed fitting down until it bottomed out and kept turning. There was enough thread to keep it secure even though I think it was still somewhat stripped. It didn’t leak. So, I re-did the epoxy to secure the fitting in place, and declared victory.Name:  IMG_9437.JPG
Views: 71
Size:  152.2 KBName:  IMG_9438.JPG
Views: 71
Size:  139.9 KB

  15. #15

    Default

    Not so much flaked out as should have checked that what i had was good enough to sell. I could have boxed em up and took your money, but I'm not that guy. I will make sure from now on before I offer a part to anyone. Once again sorry, my bad

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •