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  1. #76
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I was able to make small bits of progress this weekend... I got the old 1985 wannabe PCM out, and amazingly, the bracket is the same size and fits the 93 PCM/ECU that I am installing, so that part will fit just like OEM back behind the passenger side kick panel.

    I got the garage cleaned up just enough that I can at least move around the car, so I will post some pics soon. I also picked up the following factory Ford manuals, after talking with another guy that did the same swap, and he said that the diagrams and explanations are priceless, and made it super easy. I saw some of the diagrams, and it really lays everything out perfectly, so I should be able to clean up my harnesses as well as get everything converted over pretty quick.

    Ford Mustang Capri 1985 Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual 0335-503-85
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    Ford Mustang Capri 1986 Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual
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  2. #77
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    BTW these manuals were $25 for the 1985, and $15 for the 1985 on eBay, so very reasonable.

  3. #78
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Well, I was pleasantly surprised that the install of the fuel lines went well today. As mentioned by others, just getting the lines up next to the car gave me a good start. In the end, the key was when I saw a picture of how the lines routed at the front of the car inside of the passengers side wheel. So, I took a few pics to document the process for others.

    Here is the pic that shows how the lines routed inside of the front passenger side wheel:
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    Here is where I needed to drill an 1/8" hole and I used a stock fuel line screw to hold it to the under side of the frame rail
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    Here is a pic of how the lines come into the engine compartment
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    The following two pics show how I routed the lines along the frame rail down under the door, along side the original vapor/charcoal cannister line that was attached with a couple of rivets. I purchased new 1/4" rivets and some P clamps and secured the lines using the existing 1/4" holes.
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    I have a few more that I will post in the next post....

  4. #79
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Back at the rear of the car, under the rear seats was easiest, I mounted the lines to the existing mount tabs here (that were used to secure the original carb lines):
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    Here is how the fuel filter mounted. It mounted to the original filter location for the 1985, so that was easy as well. One strange thing was that one bolt was 1/4", and one was 5/16", not sure why.
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    Here is what it looks like under the floor of the rear hatch area, I used a 1/4" rivet to hold this in as well, into an existing hole.
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    Here is the vapor line that is factory to the 1985, and it looks like its positioned perfectly to connect to the check valve on top of the tank. What should I connect the other end of this to (the part that comes out in the engine compartment)? I am guessing that the car had a charcoal canister originally, so curious what others have done.
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    Last edited by vdubn; 07-31-2017 at 12:43 AM.

  5. #80
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Ok, so I started comparing harnesses today, and I have an 86 engine/PCM harness that comes through the firewall, and I notice that it immediately runs across the engine bay to the drivers side. My 1985 Carb harness comes out of the firewall, and splits between the headlight harness, and then runs over the drivers side.

    I was under the impression that I didn't need to remove the headlight harness, or change it over, and since I can't see where it would connect on the 86, can anyone give me some pointers on what I might be missing? Do I need to un-loom the harness that comes through the firewall, and separate the headlight section?

    Here are some pics of my 85 harness:

    First two show the harnesses as they come out of the firewall
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    Here is the leg of the harness that goes to the headlights and fogs
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    One section goes under the pass side fender to these solenoids... can I remove these from the harness?
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    Last edited by vdubn; 08-20-2017 at 02:17 AM.

  6. #81
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    The only pins you really have to worry about are the o2 plugs. They are different between auto and stick and change a bit through the years. Everything else "should" line right up, color for color.
    Haystack... can you elaborate on this a bit? I found that my 86 02 sensor harness is hammered, but the 89 02 sensor harness is in great shape. I noticed the plugs on the 89 02 sensors are small pin 3-pin plugs, versus the larger pin 3 pin plugs found on the 1986 harness. I am guessing the wiring to the 02 sensors should be the same, do I just need the later model 02 sensors, or are their differences in the wiring? They are both 3 pin 02 sensors, so I'm hoping that part is simple.

  7. #82
    FEP Power Member tonysilver82's Avatar
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    You will need to source out a 86 v8 headlight harness

  8. #83
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonysilver82 View Post
    You will need to source out a 86 v8 headlight harness
    Thanks Tony, you were 100% correct. So just to document it for future folks doing this, here are the harnesses required, and why.

    - Back Half vehicle harness from an 86 GT (includes the tail lights, section for fuel pump, etc). This is obviously needed so that you can connect an electric fuel pump, but also so that you can connect the transmission harness.

    - Headlight harness from an 86 GT - This is required because in 1985 the headlight harness is a big U shape that is incorporated into the Carbureted PCM harness, exits on the passenger side of the firewall, then splits to the drivers and passengers sides of the car to the headlights and fog lights. In 1986, the headlight harness has a bunch of other component wiring built in, and exits the firewall on the drivers side, runs up to the drivers side headlight, then travels under the core support to the passengers side headlight. The fog light harness from the 1985 works without issue or modification, so no need for an 86 fog light harness. EDIT - The 85 Fog light harness does work, but needs to be removed and rotated 180 degrees in the car, so that the main connector for the fog light harness connects on the drivers side, like in 1986, instead of the passenger side on the 85.

    - Engine/PCM harness from an 86 GT - This mounts in the passengers side kick panel, connects to the PCM and the dash harness, and exits out through the passenger side of the firewall, then connects to the fuel injection harness (at the salt and pepper shakers) and also runs out to the MAF/Speed Density sensor, and some other stuff on the passenger side of the engine compartment. The other main piece that makes this unique, is the small harness that comes over the transmission hump and connects to the fuel pump harness that ties into the back harness.

    - Fuel Injection/Injector harness - This has the salt and pepper shakers as their main connections, and this harness appears to be the same from 1986 up to even 1993. I am using an 89 harness, and have a couple others from different years, and they all look the same.

    - 02 Harness - I have decided to run an 89 02 sensor harness, so that I can run the later 02 sensors. This requires some extra work and wiring that go along with the MAF harness conversion. After a ton of research, here is how you need to repin the harness to use the later 02 harness:

    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn
    Fortunately for you the same color codes where used for the same circuits in the 86 and 87-90 harnesses. So when you repin your 87 O2 harness just match up the wire colors to the ones in your 86 main harness. As I said you will only need 4 wires: GRY/YEL (16AWG), DGRN/PPL, DBLU/LGRN, BLK/LGRN. Any other wires in the 87 O2 harness should be disconnected and can be discarded.

    GRY/YEL = HEGO PWR
    DGRN/PPL = R HEGO signal
    DBLU/LGRN = L HEGO signal
    BLK/LGRN = HEGO GND
    Dash Harness - Truth is, the 1985 dash harness will work, but what really determines which harness to use, is which Heater/A/C box you ultimately run. Because my car was unique, and was a non-A/C car, it had a strange harness for the blower motor switch, so I went back and forth, and ultimately decided to swap over to a 1986 GT dash harness, and get the associated blower motor switch, and it controlled my heater-only heater box.

    I think that covers most of it. In the end, I pretty much replaced all of the harnesses in the car, except for the roof harness, and the door harnesses, but to swap it over right, I think I will be happy I went the extra bit.

    I am in the process of re-wrapping the harnesses and cleaning them all up. Then will run them through the car, and plan to hide the engine side as much as I can, under some carbon fiber inner fender panels that I am installing. We will see if the harness is long enough to reach after I hide it.
    Last edited by vdubn; 10-09-2017 at 04:56 PM.

  9. #84
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    ^ Having done this a few times, I can say this is pretty damn accurate. I did use an 85 dash harness on my last 86 I converted from 2.3 to 5.0 BTW
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  10. #85
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Excellent thread. And the great part is when you are done you do not have a Frankenstein wiring nightmare. Anyone with basic mechanical knowledge will be able to follow what you did. In my opinion this is the best possible way to switch a 1985 over to an 86-93 EFI setup with 89+ MAF.

    congratulations!

  11. #86
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Ok, I am about half way through the installation of the 86 harnesses into my 85, and I ran into something interesting in the back half lighting/fuel pump harness. I found these two plugs that look to mount right next to the C-Pillar, behind the quarter windows on the drivers side. All the rest of the harness is plug and play, and these two plugs are sitting all on their own, with 3 pins inside each one. Can anyone help me figure out what these are for?

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  12. #87
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Search me..... did the harness come from a ragtop, hatchback, or coupe?

  13. #88
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    It came out of an 86 GT Hatchback. Does anyone know if Ford started putting power hatch latches into their cars in 1986? My 85 doesn't have a rear hatch solenoid popper, but I have seen the button inside of a 4 eyed dash glove box, and I am thinking maybe that and a 3rd brake light might be what these two harnesses are for.

    My 85 doesn't have a 3rd brake light or a power hatch release, and I am not sure when they introduced these.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  14. #89

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    I'd say you guessed right. They are for 3rd brakelight and trunk light. My 1990 harness has a similar plug, and that's what it is. They look light they might even go together. did you try plugging one into the other?
    Brad

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    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  15. #90
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The power hatch was available before the 86 model, but I am not sure what was the first year of availability.

    I am not home to check my Foxes, so I am not 100%, but I believe that one of the connectors is for the heated backlite or rear defroster and the other connector I believe is to connect to the rear hatch license plate lights, 3rd brake light and maybe for a rear hatch release. Although I could be mistaken.
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  16. #91
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Defrost wiring was relatively heavy. Trunk/hatch popper and 3rd brake are a pretty good guess.

  17. #92
    FEP Power Member slow84lx's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what year the trunk poppers were first used. The 1981 coupe that I had did not have it or rear defrost. My 1984 coupe has both rear defrost & trunk popper. The wiring harness has the connections in the rear pillar area.

  18. #93
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    3rd light started in 86, and by the colors and location, that is what you have there. Other I believe are plate lights, IIRC
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  19. #94

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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Ok, I am about half way through the installation of the 86 harnesses into my 85, and I ran into something interesting in the back half lighting/fuel pump harness. I found these two plugs that look to mount right next to the C-Pillar, behind the quarter windows on the drivers side. All the rest of the harness is plug and play, and these two plugs are sitting all on their own, with 3 pins inside each one. Can anyone help me figure out what these are for?

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    RED/LGRN = CHMSL
    LGRN/YEL = Luggage compartment lamp
    PPL/YEL = Hatch/deck release solenoid
    Last edited by Paul1958; 10-07-2017 at 09:53 PM.

  20. #95
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul1958 View Post
    RED/LGRN = CHMSL
    LGRN/YEL = Luggage compartment lamp
    PPL/YEL = Hatch/deck release solenoid
    What is CHMSL? Nevermind... figured it out... Center High Mount Stop Light

    Makes sense on the other two, and I have neither a cargo light or a hatch popper, so it really looks like these are just extra's. I spoke with another guy that has an 86 hatch, and he said he has these two plugs as extras as well. The blue connector at the bottom that is by itself, looks to be the brake signal for the 3rd brake light. So, there are actually the 2 3-pin plugs and the single purple wire with blue connector that are extras.

    Thanks much guys!
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  21. #96
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I thought of something today that I totally forgot, the inertia switch. I found the connector on the harness, then after digging through all of my harnesses, I found the switch. In the 85 cars, they had the divets for the mounting screws, so it made it easy to mount in the factory location.

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    I also got all of the stuff for my battery box relocation, and it all looks great, except that the order got mixed up, and I got 14 feet of the ground wire, and 6 feet of the power wire. Ordered the right stuff, and will get to start that next week.

    I also got the bulkhead connector, totally stoked about this. This will go through the firewall just below the heater box, and will allow me to make a right angle turn as the battery cable goes through the firewall, and then will go to the starter solenoid that will be tucked behind the strut tower (or possibly inside the fender... not sure where yet). On the plus side, I will have lots of ground cable to provide good grounds from the engine to the chassis.

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  22. #97
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quick favor to ask. Could anyone look at their car and tell me which bolts/screws are needed to bolt the fuel inlet tube to the body (underneath by the tank, there are 4 of these), and also the three that bolt the upper flange to the body, just under the fuel cap. All of these were missing on my car, and I would like to use Ford hardware.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  23. #98
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I have been painstakingly working through each harness, re-wrapping anything that looked ratty, then covering them with plastic loom if they are visible, and finally, verifying every single electrical connection.... to make sure each has a counterpart from one harness to the next. The most recent area of confusion, was in regards to the rear defrost large yellow wire that was all by itself on the passenger front corner of the car. In this thread, I finally figured out the missing link (pun intended, as I was missing a small sub-harness):

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ere-to-Connect

    I am soldering the #2 cables from the battery, and once I figure out where I will be mounting the starter solenoid (probably in the stock location), I will connect the battery, and then start working through each of the circuits (lights, dash, wiper, horn, ignition, etc.) and then finally get ready to start the car.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  24. #99

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    Originally Posted by Haystack
    The only pins you really have to worry about are the o2 plugs. They are different between auto and stick and change a bit through the years. Everything else "should" line right up, color for color.

    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Haystack... can you elaborate on this a bit? I found that my 86 02 sensor harness is hammered, but the 89 02 sensor harness is in great shape. I noticed the plugs on the 89 02 sensors are small pin 3-pin plugs, versus the larger pin 3 pin plugs found on the 1986 harness. I am guessing the wiring to the 02 sensors should be the same, do I just need the later model 02 sensors, or are their differences in the wiring? They are both 3 pin 02 sensors, so I'm hoping that part is simple.
    I think he's getting at the fact that there are different O2 sensor harnesses between the manual and automatic computers. If you plug a manual computer like an A9L into a car with an automatic O2 harness, it will fry the computer because of maybe the neutral switch wiring? Whatever the difference is, the automatic O2 harness ends up sending 12V+ (IIRC) into the computer where it's not supposed to go, and you'll at least fry the trace on the motherboard.

    You can google and find the correct info, and if it turns out that you have the wrong harness, the only difference is one terminal position on one connector, and it's pretty easy to switch out.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
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  25. #100
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I am knee deep into the engine and 02 harnesses, which I would say are the keys to this swap to EFI.... or at least the most complicated part. I have an 89 O2 sensor harness from an automatic car (found out tonight, as the loop back wire goes from pins 5 to 6 on the O2 harness). Normally, running this 02 harness with my X3Z Cobra computer would short out a section in the ECU.... HOWEVER, I am running an 86 engine/EEC harness, so the O2 sensor harness plug on the 86 EEC harness side, has no provisions for this loop back wire, pins are blank since its a speed density harness, so I shouldn't have to worry about frying my ECU. Right? Just wanting an extra opinion on this.

    Additionally, in doing my MAF conversion, is there anything I need to be doing to tie in the 02 harness, or can I just plug the 89 harness in, run the 3 wire O2 sensors, and call it a day? Also, I don't need to mess with VSS (vehicle speed off the tailshaft), if I am not running cruise control, right? I think the normal way that the VSS connects through the 1986 harness should communicate already to the EEC, or maybe through the MAF process that LMR shows, accounts for that as well.

    I've seen so many threads talking about the car never going into closed loop, etc., and all talk about 1987 and 1988 harnesses, but none talk about 1986. As mentioned above in the quote I found, I just need to pair up the like colored wires, and should only need 4, but wanted to make sure.

    Additionally, I had two plugs that plugged into the clutch switch at the pedal, and one I thought was for cruise control, but as it turns out, it is actually supposed to go down to the neutral gear switch (top of the transmission), these are pins 30 and 46 in the ECU, and according to this awesome thread, I can just connect them to the neutral gear switch circuit, and then the car should start if the clutch is pressed in (from the pedal switch), or if the trans is in neutral, from the switch on the tranny... awesome read, and helped me figure out two of the wire plugs that I couldn't identifty... I thought they were upshift light plugs, but they weren't:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...uestions/page3

    Just trying to cover all of my bases... any help is greatly appreciated.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

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