Fuel Injection Swap questions

[xctasy]

Okay.

I've had no end of trouble with


1. loop wires, and


2. fusible links and

3. diodes

with my Japanese cars. Ford was doing the exactly the same stuff in the CFi to Port EFi area. It had to.

The onboard systems worked because these three structures existed to change the operation of control systems. So when you go through 1983 to 1990 EFi Fords, you have to take a step back and think about what it would be like if you were Ford, having to put all this new wine stuff into old wineskins. Ford deserve an award for how they solved very big problems with wiring protocols, and 1. loop wires, and 2. fusible links and 3. diodes was how they did it.


I run my 12 volt accessory junctions for recharging Smart Phones, tablets, and running 55 amp road survey lights, and the Japanese put fusible links in everything. Just to make it safe, but it also gets you horribly messed up when you have to back track and re-establish the stock system when its no longer working due to age and current.

Ford and Toyo Kogyo do this, so do some Japanese cars at the acessory level. Power drains then become a strange diagnostic problem


A standard wiring protocol for all cable runners in buildings or in automative cables, is to be able to change a whole wiring system at one end by using a loop wire.

This gets complicated when Ford or the techncial people who help us have the ablity to say "the wiring harnesses never changed". By adding a fusible link or loop wire at one end, a whole wiring loom effectively COMPLETELY changes.

Ford did other changes with wiper dwell stalks and some other stuff for 1983 to 1986 model year stuff, so you have to take some time out to find what Ford did to help you avoid some blank alley time when rewiring a carb to 5.0 EFI SD or MAF vehicle. The four types of O2 sensor systems varaious kinds of EFi Foxes and SN95 Fox 4's used are important.

When a part oxidises, loop wires become better methods to change a whole wiring schematic "without changing the the wiring".


The problem is they then become like a "fusible link"


loop wire 0:23/4:02

This was a means of Ford keeping the whole variants of the O2 sensor types used the same, but the loop wire effectively undid a certain kind of MAF, non SD circuit.

It looks very similar to the fusile link, but what is used is a gender variable O2 sensors used in the 1987 to 1993 Foxes. In this instance, Ford was adding OBDII stuff to the EECIV, and AOD, 5 speed, a MAF 87-93 would have the Speed Density protocols jumpered by loop wire. In 1991, the IAC and 02 sensors had PID details in some EECIV for real time data logging, and in 1990, Ford then had some major issues about how to deal with the IAC diode every CFi equiped 3.8 or SD 5.0 SEFi (ONLY CFi 3.8, and SD 5.0 SEFi, not the 5.0 HO, which didn't have an IAC !).

This is what makes Fords a little more confusing, because the rocket science allows major changes to function by minor changes at the wring junctions.

This video is for folks that might be confused with the 02 harnesses discussions on the net for 87-93 ford mustang 5.0 EFI cars. This video is useful for folks with 4cyl conversions for EFI V8 swaps or folks that are changing computers or transmission swaps from AOD and T5s. Ford made 4 different pinouts for the 02 harnesses due to the differences in the NSS circuit that ran from the computer thru dash harness and to the pedals. This is one of the frequently confused discussions on the net for mustang wiring harnesses and conversions. I explain all 4 different pinouts on one harness. Thanks for looking. GL!

Now see http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...y-not-charging

I don't recall whether your '86 is 5-speed or Automatic, but from some of the preceding, it seems
you have a 5-speed.

The 5-speed Fox Mustangs do not have a neutral -safety- switch. The later SEFI models do have
a Neutral Gear -Sensor- switch, but I'm not sure the '86 had one. The NGS switch is on the top of
the transmission, in the same place as the 5th gear switch that is used on models that have the
upshift light. That switch is supposed to be closed in every shifter position except 5th. I believe
the NGS is closed only in neutral.

The only -safety- switch you should have on a 5-speed Mustang is on the clutch pedal.



There are basically six connection points that need to be attended to, to get the ammeter working.
Four of those are on the cluster itself, where the harness plug attaches, and where the flex circuit
connects to the gauge. I generally like to give the entire flex circuit a bath in white vinegar, then
a good rinse and dry. The corresponding pins in the connector can be removed and dipped in a
small container of white vinegar, such as a shot glass. The wires are red/orange stripe, and yellow/
light green stripe.

I do the same with the gauge posts and nuts (but don't leave them too long in the vinegar, or the
plating will come off the nuts). To soak the gauge posts, I remove the gauge and stand it up in a
small glass of white vinegar with the posts down. Of course you want to mind that no part of the
gauge itself is immersed.

Once everything is clean and dry, I wipe some dielectric grease on every connection pad on the flex
circuit and connector pins, as well as a bit on all the gauge posts.

The other two connections are a bit harder to get to. They're in one of the harness connectors on
the top of the pork chop brace under the dash. Those I like to remove the pins from the connectors,
and dip them in a shot glass of white vinegar, then rinse and dry. Make sure the pins make tight
contact, and coat with dielectric grease before putting them back in the connectors.

and http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...5-fusible-link

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SpsSRGfDQI

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-fusible-links

Here's some stuff from a guy doing the same.



This is the power distribution from a '95 Mustang GT. I thought it would be helpful because it's how the factory essentially did the same thing.



And this is my plan. I tended to err on the side of caution with lower numbered fuses just in case. I can always go up in number if I end up blowing fuses over and over, haha.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...SOLVED!!/page2
[QUOTE=erockk;1817481]it wired into the connector coming off of the idle air controller.



mine was in the wiring harness (not my engine but the best picture i could find)