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  1. #51
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I will be retaining my sway bar mounts, so will need to figure out a clean way to do the cutouts for the brackets.

  2. #52
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I made some good progress this weekend, along with the help of a good friend, we were able to get the whole engine compartment prepped and ready for the engine. Hoping to get the engine and transmission installed tomorrow night... we will see.

    We started by cutting out the front aprons in preparation for the carbon fiber units that will be installed next weekend hopefully. Then we scuffed the whole bay, cleaned up the hood where there was some surface rust, and masked everything off.

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  3. #53
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Here is what it looked like with the base coat, then with the clear coat. Finally, the last two pics show the before and after of the hood rust repair (area above the battery).

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  4. #54
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    Nice progress! I'm still just collecting parts.

  5. #55
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I also got the Walbro 255 assembled with a new fuel pump hanger, and new fuel level sender, and got them installed into the tank.

    Had a huge fiasco painting the new brake booster, but stripped it completely down to metal again, and painted it with satin black, and it turned out great.

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    Then I got a chance to install the AJE subframe cross-braces, one per side, which triangulates the subframe and really improves its lateral strength in the event owners want to run the car on a track. Was a bit tricky getting installed, but ultimately fit well. I need to install the rack and install the bumpsteer kit (hopefully later this week)

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    Torqued the flywheel bolts to the new motor, and will be installing the clutch tomorrow, along with the bell housing, trans, etc.

    Need to get the brakes finished, got these back from the powder coater a couple weeks ago. The red matches the rear calipers perfectly. Have the new intermediate brake hose that goes front to back, but need to get the stainless hard tubes for the front of the car.... just need mo money

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    So, shooting to get the engine/trans installed this week, and hopefully the suspension so that I can weld in the subframe connectors. More to come....

  6. #56

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    Nice progress. I'm looking forward to seeing those carbon fiber pieces in the engine bay.

  7. #57
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Carbon fiber aprons are due to ship out tomorrow. He blended the edges of the panels with my factory paint, so here are a few pics of what he sent me last night.

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    Also, my buddies and I were able to get the engine installed last night. Looks like I got the AJE motor mounts in backwards, so I'll swap those tonight. Starting to come together.

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  8. #58
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    One other thing I ran into... its seems as though the trans mount has the tail shaft a little high. Here is a pic of the shifter coming through the floor. Does it look higher than normal? So just to give some context, the AJE K Member lowers the engine to the height the same as in the convertible cars. I wonder, since I am running a new stock trans mount, could that be pitching the tail of the engine/trans assembly a bit higher than normal? I think the trans crossmember in the convertibles is different, and it might lower the engine a bit, since the part numbers are the same between the coupes and the convertibles for the mount itself. I was thinking of running an Energy Suspensions trans mount, because they look about an inch shorter, but was curious what others thought.

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  9. #59
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    It is only slightly higher in back if any. When you drop the motor 1/2" it causes the tail section after the crossmember to go up.

    Ive asked about pinion angle with that situation before and the comment was it's perfectly fine.

    one observation - it seems to my your T5 is further back in the hole than I remember mine being.... I'll have to look at mine the next time I'm under my 86
    Last edited by erratic50; 09-19-2017 at 01:29 PM.

  10. #60
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Yea, actually, I wasn't so concerned about pinion angles, although that is a good thing to be thinking of... my bigger issue was that the drivers side header flange (MAC long tube headers) is hitting the floor. The guy at AJE said that once I switch the motor mounts (which will move the motor to the front by an inch or so) it shouldn't be an issue. I am hoping he is right. I was concerned that with the trans being an inch or so high, its pitching the header flange into the floor more than it should be. I am guessing that clearances are pretty close anyway, so less than 1/2" between the header flange and floor in normal situations, right? The additional advantage of the shorter rear mount, was allowing the shifter to drop inside the tunnel a bit more, but maybe that isn't something to be concerned with.

    Here are some pics of the header flanges... granted, this is with the motor mounts backwards...

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  11. #61
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Made some more progress yesterday.... got the brakes and suspension all installed, tightened up all of stuff in the front end, reinstalled the column, connected the steering shaft, and installed the wheels/tires and got it back on the ground and rolling around. I need to adjust the suspension to even things out left and right, then get sub frame connectors installed, and then, and then....

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  12. #62
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Awesome progress!

  13. #63
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Looking Sweet!

    Awesome!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  14. #64

  15. #65
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Looking good!

    Mike

  16. #66
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.. I still have to a lot to do, but I have a lot of appreciation to all of you guys on the site here... couldn't have done it without your help.

    My next biggest hurdle is welding the subframe connectors into the car. Before I do that I need to get the suspension levelled out. My plan is to put jack stands under the rear diff, and under the front A-Arms, so that the car is effectively raised, but still sitting on the suspension. Is there anything else I need to do to ensure that the car is level and still sitting on suspension, before I start welding the connectors into place?

  17. #67

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    Dang, she's looking sexy on the ground!

  18. #68
    FEP Power Member Mikestang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Thanks guys.. I still have to a lot to do, but I have a lot of appreciation to all of you guys on the site here... couldn't have done it without your help.

    My next biggest hurdle is welding the subframe connectors into the car. Before I do that I need to get the suspension levelled out. My plan is to put jack stands under the rear diff, and under the front A-Arms, so that the car is effectively raised, but still sitting on the suspension. Is there anything else I need to do to ensure that the car is level and still sitting on suspension, before I start welding the connectors into place?
    As long as the frame is straight already, the weight on the suspension is good enough for welding in the sub connectors. The chassis does not need to be perfectly level to do this. You just don't want jack stands on the frame because that can introduce a twist into the chassis. I suggest the weight on the tires in the front, rear the jacks u see the diff is ok.

    Looking good
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

    Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
    In the middle of rebuild

    1986 LX Sedan-

    Plans to be determined...

    "Every day I learn how much I don't know"

  19. #69
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Did the test fit of the passenger side carbon fiber apron tonight, and it fit very nice. I had to cut out the section for the sway bar mounts. I feel like it turned out pretty good. I almost don't want to cut into the pass side for the Cold Air Intake, makes me a bit nervous, but hopefully I can get the cut for the hole on the first shot.

    Hopefully most of the items I need to mount, will mount on the passengers side. Looking at running the CAI through it, mounting the MSD to it, and an MSD coil. The starter solenoid will be mounted behind the pass side strut tower, so other than that, I don't think I need to mount anything else... if anyone can remind me of anything else that needs to be mounted to either side, let me know. Since I got the car with all of the engine bay stuff removed, I am not 100% sure what all I need.

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    Here is a picture behind the wheel well, so you can see how close it fits to the inner flange of the frame rail.

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  20. #70
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I got the subframe connectors installed this weekend. Drivers side went much quicker after taking half a day yesterday to get the passengers side installed. The directions say 3 hours for install.... maybe with a lift and if you've done it once. Either way, most of my welds turned out pretty good (hence I will show the pics of the good welds ) some took a bit more wire to get good penetration, so weren't as pretty as I hoped... In the end, got them fastened well.

    I also got the intermediate brake line totally connected, so now all of the brakes from the firewall back are done and ready to go. I needed to get the Subframe Connectors done, and the brake line finished, so that I can install the gas tank, driveline and exhaust. Didn't want to be welding with the tank in the car.

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  21. #71
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    One last thing I need to do with the rear brakes is to install the ebrake cables. I see where they go through the body, but I think there should be a clip to hold them from dragging low. Can someone post a pic of the clip and where it mounts? I have the cables, but just need to figure out what clips I need to hold them to the body, and to see if I need anything to hold them to the calipers.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  22. #72
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Ok, looks like I found the bracket I need for the rear cables..... anyone know where I can buy these? Mine are missing.

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  23. #73
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I can't remember for sure, but I thought you were running SN95 rear disc brakes instead of the drum. If so then these would be a better choice than what's in your picture.

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2530A-K/mus...uide-kit-94-04

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    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  24. #74
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    I'm cheap. I'd just use a common hardware store odell clamp.

    Mike

  25. #75
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I can't remember for sure, but I thought you were running SN95 rear disc brakes instead of the drum. If so then these would be a better choice than what's in your picture.

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2530A-K/mus...uide-kit-94-04

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    You are correct. I am running the SN95 rear disc brakes. I figured that the clips were specific to the body, but it makes sense that they may be specific to the cables.... $40 though? Man... it stinks doing it right.

    Mike, I hear you, but I don't mind spending the money and making it look like it was all supposed to be there from the factory back in 1985... sometimes I just wish it were cheaper to do it right
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

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