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  1. #1
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default 85 GT Build Project (saved from the Drag life).... Lots of Questions

    This is my introductory post, I've been lurking for a while, but recently bought this project, and was hoping to tap into the expertise here to get things rolling. I've done a number of projects in my years, and really love the 1984 to 1986 GT's, so have been looking for a good one to use as a starting point for a clean and fun driver. I have a lot of experiencing building muscle cars, European import cars, doing motor swaps, etc., so looking forward to this.

    So, the car I picked up is an 85 T-Top GT 5 speed that I just picked up from a gentleman with plans to turn it into a drag car. It only has 90K miles on it, and the body is super clean. T-Tops barely look to have ever been opened, etc. So glad to have saved it from life of chopping and lightening.


    The guy did a number of updates, some I can easily identify, and some have just left question marks as I try to sort out where to start.

    I'll first start with what I know along with the questions I have... thanks much in advance for any help you can provide.

    What I know:
    - It was claimed to have an SVO rear end swap done, and from what I can tell by the differential tag, it is in fact a 1985 SVO 7.5" 3.73 Limited slip rear end. Here are the tag numbers, let me know if I missed anything: 265F 3L73A75 6A23 (The F after the 265 may be something else, not sure, here is a pic of the tag):
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    - Before I looked at the car, it was claimed to have front and rear coilovers, but after taking a look at it, it appears to only have front coilovers. I looked for a brand or part number to reference, but I don't see anything on these. Can anyone give me an idea what they are? I do know that they have dampening adjustments on the top, but that is about all I know. Here is a pic of the front coils, and also a pic of the rear springs on the passenger side that are off of the spring seat and stuck on the axle bumper
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    - No one had cut anything up in terms of the seats, which was good, but I did find this issue with the drivers seat mount. Any idea how this would happen, if its common, and how do people fix it typically?
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    - It has disk brakes all around, the rears from the SVO differential are bigger than the fronts, but the fronts are Wilwood brakes. So after doing some research, it appears that the front brakes are a Drag Racing Lightweight setup that Wilwood sells. I will be swapping these out with the front SVO complete spindle setup that he gave me with the car. Below is a pic of the brakes, and a link to a pic of the master cylinder (limit to 5 images dropped into each post I guess)... can anyone identify what the master cylinder is, and if it will work with the SVO front and rear disc brakes, or should I just look for an SVO master cylinder?
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    http://www.vdubn.com/projects/1985Mu...ercylinder.jpg

    More to come in the next post...
    Last edited by vdubn; 05-21-2017 at 09:53 AM.

  2. #2
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    The cront coil overs , look to maybe be Qa1
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  3. #3
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    ...Continued

    - The car has an aftermarket K Member, but I don't know what brand, or if its a good enough unit to use in a street car. I am guessing its fine, but just making sure that it isn't a drag racing version or something I wouldn't want in the car long term.

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    - As I mentioned above, the body is in great shape. The only strange issue I came across, was the previous owner cut out a part of the drivers side inner fender wall. I have the piece, as you can see in the following pic, but I am not sure why anyone would cut this out. I think I can just tack weld it back in place, but was curious if anyone here knew why someone might do this?

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    - Back to the rear differential, it looks like this car had the 4 shock setup, is that specific to the GT or the SVO, or common in both? And is it critical to retain all 4 shocks?

    - Here is a pic of the rear sway bar and how it mounts. Is this factory for the SVO? Was there a rear sway bar on the GT stock? Also pictured is a DRAKE rear diff cover that looks to have mounts for a girdle or something similar. Is there a girdle setup that can be installed in these cars, or is it totally not needed?

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  4. #4
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Ok. As someone who owns an SVO and who has done a Cobra five lug four wheel disc swap on an LX 5.0, I would say get rid of the SVO stuff and get a 8.8 rear end for the extra robustness over the 7.5 rear and look into doing a different (easier to get parts for) brake swap. Some of the tubular k members are lighter weight and not reccomended for street use IIRC. The seat brace is very common on these cars and are fixed in whatever manner an owner sees fit. Most weld it back together and then weld a reinforcement plate over top of it. Check the rest of the floors carefully to make sure there are not anymore cracks anywhere.

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    First welcome to FEP! Congrats on the new to you 1985 Mustang GT T-top. Definitely a great model to start with!

    I will second most of the previous comments, maybe repeat a few and hopefully add some others.

    As stated the SVO 7.5" will only tolerate moderate power levels especially with sticky tires. It can work just fine on the street, but an 8.8 is better and ultimately will last longer. I wouldn't say replacing is the first priority, but I would put it on the list.

    The front struts appear to be Koni struts by the color, but no guarantees! If they are Koni's they are most likely from the same SVO as the other parts. That can be good, but I would verify with part numbers etc. The coil over kit looks like a UPR, etc.kit but it's very hard to tell. Hopefully the spring rate is engraved into one end of the springs to help you know what you have. Personally I am a Maximum Motorsports guy when it comes to suspension and don't use anything else in almost all cases. I am not a fan of UPR for anything other than interior trim bits and pieces.

    The 4 shock rear setup is standard @ mid 1984-93 Mustang suspension. The standard upright rear shocks and then then horizontal quad shock. The quad shocks are beneficial depending on your rear suspension setup and pieces.

    Seat mount damage is pretty standard and normal for many Foxes, especially if the Previous Owner(s) were large or overweight. You will need/want to weld that up with some patch panels and a new stud mount for the seats. Most likely a donor will be your best bet, although the entire front seat riser piece is available aftermarket now.

    IMHO the SVO brakes are not worth the headaches and trouble nor the costs for them. The SVO spindle is also unique to the SVO and doesn't really offer any benefit over the 87-93 V8 spindle or the 94-04 SN95 spindles. I prefer the SN95 spindle and brakes as there are more options in terms of brake calipers, brake pads, the parts are plentiful and the hub design works better with most of the aftermarket wheels available today.

    The M/C shown appears to be an 87-93 style unit, but not 100% on that.

    The aftermarket K member again looks like a UPR unit or maybe AJE. UPR copies everyone, so sometimes it is hard to tell. IMHO the K member is not a unit that I would run on the street unless you are talking about mild cruising on smooth streets and NOT a daily driver of any sort. The K member is light and works fine for drag racing, but doesn't have the strength, materials, bracing, etc. to work well on the street when running over pot holes, etc. YES, so do run those type of units on the street and swear they do just fine, but I will never trust my life or the lives of my family to one.

    The inner fender was either cut out for weight savings or possibly to allow more clearance for additional pieces in the engine bay. Depending on how it was cut out, most likely you will need to replace the entire panel rather than just tack weld it back in for the best strength and structural integrity. You might consider a set of Scott Rod Fab panels to clean up and smooth the engine bay rather than a stock style replacement. http://scottrodfab.com/shop/fox-body.../8-ficstl.html

    The rear sway bar setup is standard Fox Body installation. The SVO, GT, and base models when equipped were all mounted that way. Sway bars were determined by either suspension package, drivetrain, or both on the different models. YES a GT would have had a rear swaybar from the factory.

    The rear end cover/girdle is a standard "upgrade" part that is beneficial to the 7.5 and 8.8 rear axles.

    Your rear control arms appear to be aftermarket tubular units that generally use polyurethane bushings at either end. Most likely you also have tubular upper rear arms too. Unfortunately that setup makes a Fox body handling only worse and not better in anything other than a straight line on smooth pavement. I won't go into all the details right now, but I would recommend you seriously consider replacing both sets if you plan on running the car on the street and want a decent ride and handling. Here is an beginning explanation of the rear suspension and why not to use the rear controls arms I believe you have.
    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...susp_rlca.aspx

    That's a bunch of information to hit you with and many of the answers or comments are not what you were hoping for. No of this is personal nor a bashing of your vehicle, just basic information and opinion based upon almost 30 years of messing with Fox Mustangs and Capris. Feel free to PM me if you need clarification or more details on anything or just want to bounce ideas, etc. around. Best of luck!
    ​Trey

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  6. #6

  7. #7
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of the information, its much appreciated, and I don't take offense to any of it, its exactly what I wanted to know. At this stage of the game, I am really just trying to identify what I want to keep, what I want to change, etc.

    Dagenham, WraithRacing, I agree with you on the brake setups, and I had noticed that the spindles of the SVO front brakes looked quite a bit different. I found a receipt for a 1993 to 1998 master cylinder, so it looks like you are correct, that is what it is. It should work then for my brake setup.

    So, as in other projects I have done, there are typically some relatively inexpensive factory options for calipers that seem to improve drastically. As an example, running Cobra brakes of a certain year might get me 4 piston calipers, etc. I have been reading a ton on here, but haven't made it to reading up on good brake upgrades. If anyone has a thread off the top of their head that they could point me to, that would be awesome, or I can just continue sifting through all of the info here, its been enjoyable.

    As for the rear springs, here is a pic of the one I pulled that was hung up on the rear snub mount:

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    So, after your feedback, I will be replacing the K Member, running 93 to 98 brakes (not sure which calipers yet), and eventually swapping out the rear axle. For now, I will just leave it in place, and will get an 8.8 3.73 down the road. Whats the best/easiest year to find as a donor for the rear end (3.73 with LSD)? Also, is the SVO differential in my car, wider than the stock GT differential by .75 on each side? I heard that some were. Also, any idea what the SVO rear end with disk brakes and the front SVO brakes worth... if anything?

    Do the 7.5 and 8.8 differentials happen to use the same differential cover? If not, no biggie, just trying to figure out what I need to hang onto, and what I can let go of to fund the search for other parts.

    As referenced above by 4-barrel Mike, I've already posted a bunch of the drag racing stuff up for sale... guess I'll put the K member up now

    So, I imagine stock K member are probably the best way to go, right?

    I may actually consider just getting another parts car with damage, if I did that, what year would you guys recommend as a best source of powertrain and suspension/brake stuff to swap over?

    Thanks again for all of the great advice, and warm welcome.

  8. #8
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    So, I was able to determine that the KMember is an AJE unit, part number 040-MU-40UM. I went to Jegs (the receipt shows that's where the previous owner bought it), and they show optional braces for track driving, so apparently its rated to be strong enough for road racing, but also beneficial for drag racing, since its only 21 lbs. I'll probably grab the braces just to be sure. One other thing worthy of note.... having just read through the receipts this guy had, along with the Kmember, he had a set of LS1 motor mounts ordered with it.... so not only did I save it from Drag life, but even worse.... a Chevy pacemaker

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Nothing makes me madder than seeing an ls1 in a Mustang. Go buy a Camaro if you want to run chebbies.

  10. #10

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    Rear is not from a 1985 SVO.

    6A23 = January 23, 1986

    That date is far too late to be from any 1985 vehicle.
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  11. #11
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    As for the rear springs, here is a pic of the one I pulled that was hung up on the rear snub mount:

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    Those are FMS "B" springs.
    Brock
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  12. #12
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Those are FMS "B" springs.
    So any idea how much they lower the car, if any?

  13. #13
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Can anyone recommend a good rear coilover setup that would complement the front ones I have? I read where I may have to install some rear spring adapters that will allow a 2.5" rear spring to be installed, then I can run a rear adjustable coilover. Not sure if that's necessary, or just the most common method to get height adjustment in the rear suspension.
    Last edited by vdubn; 05-22-2017 at 11:03 AM.

  14. #14
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    Rear is not from a 1985 SVO.

    6A23 = January 23, 1986

    That date is far too late to be from any 1985 vehicle.
    He said he thought it was the same year SVO, but it looks like its a 1986 SVO rear end then. Since its clear that the rear disks are original to the rear end, I'm guessing that it is in fact an 86 SVO.

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    So any idea how much they lower the car, if any?
    They lower about a 1/2 - 3/4" or so. it's not much.
    Brock
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  16. #16
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    They lower about a 1/2 - 3/4" or so. it's not much.
    Well, add coilovers to the list.... the joys of finding out how some folks put cars together. Are the B springs worth anything? Trying to figure out how much stuff to try to sell versus how much to just toss.

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Well, add coilovers to the list.... the joys of finding out how some folks put cars together. Are the B springs worth anything? Trying to figure out how much stuff to try to sell versus how much to just toss.
    You don't have to tell me about the joys of PO's....the things I documented in my build thread would turn Henry Ford over in his grave.

    As for the B springs, I'm not sure on them as I have never used, bought or sold them. I think it might be a hard sell unless you have the matching fronts to sell as a set. Just pure speculation on my end though.
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  18. #18
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Trying to figure out how much stuff to try to sell versus how much to just toss.
    Craigslist is free. If you don't have a storage problem, put 'em up for sale. No telling what'll happen (It took me 3 months to sell my 2.3T/T5 Pinto [for full, original asking price]).

    Mike

  19. #19
    FEP Member 83GLCoupe's Avatar
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    I thought that K member looked like it had provisions for GM engine mounts.
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  20. #20
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The AJE K member is better than a UPR unit IMHO, but I still have reservations about running one on the street. Honestly I am more of a corner carver/road racer than a drag racer so I tend to push the lateral g limit of my vehicles with lower ride height, low profile tires, larger and wider wheels, big brakes, etc. so I know my cars take a bit more punishment than the average cruiser or street car. I would still recommend checking out Maximum Motorsports in regards to all of their suspension parts, pieces, chassis bracing, etc. I have never bought a piece from them that didn't work! You can tell the quality of their products by how few used ones come up for sale on Ebay, Craigslist, etc.

    The biggest question is what are your ultimate plans for this vehicle? Is this a cruiser, daily driver, corner carver, track car, or what? That will determine many if not most of your decisions in regards to K member, struts/shocks, coil overs, brakes, rear end assembly, etc. If you start out with a well thought out plan of attack it will help to prevent you from spending money on things that you either don't need or don't work as intended. I also recommend setting your car up for what it will do the majority of the time. If you are going to cruise it 90% of the time and run it on the track the other 10%, then set it up as a cruiser as you will enjoy that more often and giving up a little bit at the track isn't such a big deal when it only spends a small amount of time there. If the car is a dedicated track vehicle then you are willing to make more sacrifices in the name of those precious tenths of a second that matter so much. Not the case when you want to run down to Sonic for a treat with the wife and kids and have to put up with a temperamental, hot, noisy, and smelly race car!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

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    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
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  21. #21
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    Nice talking to you today Dean. I look forward to meeting you in a couple weeks and picking up the parts we talked about!

  22. #22
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83GLCoupe View Post
    I thought that K member looked like it had provisions for GM engine mounts.
    AJE makes both LS1 and 5.0L motor mounts that work with this KMember.

  23. #23
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The AJE K member is better than a UPR unit IMHO, but I still have reservations about running one on the street. Honestly I am more of a corner carver/road racer than a drag racer so I tend to push the lateral g limit of my vehicles with lower ride height, low profile tires, larger and wider wheels, big brakes, etc. so I know my cars take a bit more punishment than the average cruiser or street car. I would still recommend checking out Maximum Motorsports in regards to all of their suspension parts, pieces, chassis bracing, etc. I have never bought a piece from them that didn't work! You can tell the quality of their products by how few used ones come up for sale on Ebay, Craigslist, etc.

    The biggest question is what are your ultimate plans for this vehicle? Is this a cruiser, daily driver, corner carver, track car, or what? That will determine many if not most of your decisions in regards to K member, struts/shocks, coil overs, brakes, rear end assembly, etc. If you start out with a well thought out plan of attack it will help to prevent you from spending money on things that you either don't need or don't work as intended. I also recommend setting your car up for what it will do the majority of the time. If you are going to cruise it 90% of the time and run it on the track the other 10%, then set it up as a cruiser as you will enjoy that more often and giving up a little bit at the track isn't such a big deal when it only spends a small amount of time there. If the car is a dedicated track vehicle then you are willing to make more sacrifices in the name of those precious tenths of a second that matter so much. Not the case when you want to run down to Sonic for a treat with the wife and kids and have to put up with a temperamental, hot, noisy, and smelly race car!
    Agreed on all points Trey, and I am with you on having my car low to the ground, bigger wheels, lower profile tires, flushed out wheels, etc. My plans really for the car are to make it a fun daily/summer street car, with hopefully around 400 hp, and I probably won't track or drag race it honestly. Maybe once to see what it could do, but I really would much prefer to just drive and enjoy it, run with friends to shows, swap meets, etc.

    Having siad all that, I would like to enjoy some spirited driving through the turns, etc.

    The rear lower control arms on my car are actually Maximum Motorsports, and I would agree, they are nice units. The uppers are stock, at least from what I can see. I was thinking of getting adjustable uppers.... is it worth doing for the driving I am looking to do, or a waste of money? I was also looking to get some tubular front lower A-arms to replace my stock lowers, but again, wonder if it would be better to put the money elsewhere? Here is a pic of the rear suspension at full drop (no shocks connected):

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    Also, I found what seems to be a bit of good news... looks like the PO actually had some Torque Box Reinsforcements welded in... looks like he did decent work....
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  24. #24
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Matt View Post
    Nice talking to you today Dean. I look forward to meeting you in a couple weeks and picking up the parts we talked about!
    Same here... see ya soon

  25. #25
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Those big studs will be in the way if you intend to put a rear seat back in though.
    Since I'm used to stock suspension I'm not familiar with what they are for.

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