Close



Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 115
  1. #26
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    Those big studs will be in the way if you intend to put a rear seat back in though.
    Since I'm used to stock suspension I'm not familiar with what they are for.
    I spoke with a few people about the torque box procedure that was done, and they said that a rear seat can still be fitted. I will see when I go to reinstall mine. May not be very comfortable for a rear passenger, depending on where these bolts end up in relation ship to their back end, but I'll report back with some pics after I put the seat back in.

  2. #27
    FEP Super Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Roseburg Oregon
    Posts
    3,308

    Default

    In 20 years of owning my 84 , there has only been someone in the back seat twice.
    I took it out and built a delete .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  3. #28
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Can anyone tell me what brand of rear disk brake adapter brackets these are?
    Name:  diskbrakebrackets.jpg
Views: 446
Size:  110.8 KB

  4. #29
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    The reason I ask about the brackets, is I found them in the car. The car has the SVO rear end with disks, so I was thinking of just using those, but was told that the SVO rear brakes are so unique, and really need to be used with an SVO master cylinder, that I might want to consider different rear brakes. If I could use these brackets, and determine which caliper/carrier and rotors to run, that would be awesome.

  5. #30
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Its been a long time since I added to this thread, and even though it started out as more of a discovery thread, I am turning it into a build thread. Here are some updates of the progress I've made to the car, broken down by different segments....

    Steering/Suspension/Chassis/Brakes
    - I bought a full set of coilovers to replace what was on the car
    - Purchased the AJE Support brace that triangulates between the A-arms and the center section, to give it strength for canyon carving
    - Grabbed a set of Maximum Motorsports non-offset front A-arms to work with the AJE Kmember
    - Had the front and rear stock sway bars powder coated red to clean things up a bit
    - Bought a Maximum Motorsports Panhard Bar Kit to keep the rear differential from moving under side loads
    - Bought a brand new 8.8 3.73 Rear Diff with LSD, painted it, installed new MM rear brake line kit
    - Went to NorthRaceCars and got their Fox Width Rear Axles with SN95 flanges, and their offset brake calipers that allow 11.6" rear Cobra rotors and calipers.
    - Bought a pair of SN95 (1994/95) front knuckles off of a gentleman on a Fox Body Facebook group
    - Found a local guy that had a factory set of Cobra front calipers for $150 with the rotors, which seemed like a good deal. They looked to be painted with a stick, so I took them in to get powder coated. Found a full rebuild kit on eBay for the calipers, so they should be like new.
    - Grabbed a remanufactured 1993 Cobra Steering Rack, as someone had put a higher ratio rack into the car, and I wanted to try to get a little more feedback/connected feeling. Still need to get a bump steer kit, as I plan to have the car lowered between 2 and 3 inches below stock.

    Name:  20170623_184417_resized.jpg
Views: 408
Size:  113.9 KB

    Name:  20170726_201337_resized.jpg
Views: 414
Size:  116.5 KB

    Name:  20170726_201345_resized.jpg
Views: 414
Size:  89.4 KB
    Last edited by vdubn; 08-02-2017 at 01:11 PM.

  6. #31
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    To Inject or Not to Inject?
    - So I vacillated back and forth on whether to stick with carburation, or go EFI. After much deliberation, I decided to convert over to EFI. I have sourced all of the wiring harnesses, factory fuel lines from an 86, and purchased a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, and an 86 fuel sending unit for the tank, and an 86 instrument cluster. I found a great deal on an Edelbrock Performer Intake, so I had it cleaned up and powder coated. I already had a full 1993 Cobra EFI setup, including a Pro-M MAF, 65mm BBK Throttle Body, brand new 24# injectors, and the Cobra ECU, so I should be pretty well setup.
    - Just this last weekend I removed the carbureted fuel lines, and installed all of the EFI lines. Here is a quick link to my EFI swap thread, lots of good information there: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...Swap-questions

    Engine/Transmission/Driveline/Exhaust
    - I found a low mileage engine that is super clean, but after looking over the main and rod bearings, it could use a quick overhaul. Cylinders are still nice and round all the way to the bottom, so we are going to hone it and run some Keith Black pistons that should net about 10.5:1 compression, and will work with the Edelbrock Aluminum heads I got.
    - The heads are actuallly the Edelbrock Estreet heads, with 2.02 intakes, and we swapped out the janky valvetrain that Edlebrock sells with these heads, for a nice set of dual spring Lunati LSx springs, keepers, locks, etc. After much research, the head casting is the same as the Performer heads, but the valvetrain they sold with the heads is just junk.
    - Found a good deal on a Trick Flow Stage 1 camshaft, new set of Ford Motorsports roller lifters, and a new Comp Cams roller timing chain set. Beyond that, we will be freshening up all bearings, new oil pump, and running all ARP hardware throughout.
    - As for exhaust, I got another great deal on a set of long tube MAC headers, and I had them stripped and Ceramic Coated, they turned out great. I found a great deal on a MAC Pro Chamber as well, and just this last weekend picked up a new Flowmaster Cat-Back American Thunder setup.... hoping it will sound good, not sure how loud it will be.... we will see.

    Name:  20170731_181845_resized.jpg
Views: 422
Size:  105.8 KB

    - The transmission turned out to be more work than I thought, as people were wanting crazy money for T5's. After buying 2 that were marketed as 5.0L tranny's, and finding out that they were 2.3L transmissions, I finally found a recently rebuilt World Class T5, WITH a bellhousing for a great deal. Same guy that I got the MAC headers from, sold me a bunch of stuff off of an 86 car that not only helped with the transmission, but also helped with the EFI swap, and a number of other things. I had the bellhousing stripped, and powder coated, and it turned out great.
    - Bought a new Centerforce Dual Friction 10.5" clutch setup from MIKE'SVO86 on here, and pieced together the rest of the clutch stuff from LMR
    - Found a local guy with a lightly used aluminum driveshaft, and a nice aluminum radiator/dual fan setup, and bought them both.

    Lots more to come, and I will get pics along the way as I get it closer to back on the road.

  7. #32
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Wheels and Tires

    I had a whole thread going about wheel/tire fitment. But here are a couple pics that show which wheels I ultimately chose. I usually prefer something a bit more unique, but have decided for now to stick with the Anniversary wheels, and then after its on the road for a bit, I will look at some custom wheel options. Here is the thread: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...it-in-the-rear

    Name:  wheeltestfit1.jpg
Views: 410
Size:  105.2 KB

    Name:  wheeltestfit2.jpg
Views: 416
Size:  97.5 KB

    Name:  wheeltestfit3.jpg
Views: 416
Size:  107.6 KB

    Name:  wheeltestfit4.jpg
Views: 417
Size:  132.1 KB

    Name:  wheeltestfit5.jpg
Views: 410
Size:  109.2 KB

  8. #33

    Default

    You can't save a Fox from drag life... For some of em it's the best life!
    1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
    95 Cobra, Crystal White

  9. #34
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    My advice mostly parallels much of what has been said already.

    Factory K member and control arms.
    Convertible motor mounts - drop 1/2" vs hatchback/notchback
    Bear in mind many years are different. New bushings or new control arms
    X2 balljoints to drop 3/4" or low friction sn95 otherwise
    SN95 spindles from 94-95
    1999 dual piston calipers, Baer rotors .... or same in 2003-2004 cobra setup
    performance friction pads, braided hoses
    Summit adjustable proportioning valve, gut stock and plug - get from LMR
    Mark7 master cyl - 1" bore all metal. Mcparts line adapter
    15:1 rack, reman pump, transcooler, synthetic fluid
    MM bumpsteer kit for sn95 on fox
    MM caster/camber plates
    stock GT front springs (X2 + plates is a 1.5" drop)
    stock GT front sway, no rear or lighter cobra front and rear
    1986-1995 8.8" housing. Convert to 5 lug sn95 hub fox length axles
    northern racing brackets and SN95 rear brakes
    4 cyl LX rear springs, cut 1/2 coil off
    Tubular lower control arms with rubber bushings at body mounts
    Torque arm
    MM panhard bar
    new quad shocks
    New stock 87-93 fox struts (or adjustable)
    camber bolts
    set steering max even caster, -1.75 camber, 0 toe
    94-95 stock rear shocks (or adj)
    255/40/17 tires on 8-8.5" front, 9" rear
    For steering feel underdrive crank pulley, summit "cobra" overdrive waterpump pulley
    (Slow down PS and alternator and AC and smog while keeping water 1:1)
    T5Z or T56 Viper spec
    4.10:1 gears

    All frontend stuff is done on mine so are brakes. So far I love it. I still need to buy a torquearm and put in my panhard.



    Sn95/SVO/TBird/Cobra width out back is getttibg fixed on mine. Hate it! Will put in my gears when I do it.


    1986 wiring harness, do a MAF conversion. (Pm me, I have an easy doc to help you)
    1986 gauge sender
    1986 tank
    1993 Cobra ECU and MAF meter
    65MM throttle body and EGR spacer
    Typhoon EFI or ported lower Tubular GT40 intake
    24 lb injectors

    youll need bigger fuel supply but
    moats quarterhorse
    E85 conversion
    comp cam
    47lb EV6 injectors and adapters
    TFS heads if 86 pistons,
    AFR 165's or Edelbrock if 87-91
    Jack the compression via small chambers
    strong pushrods
    light valve retainers & nice springs
    modded roller lifters
    roller tip rockers
    equal headers, h or X w/cats, etc.

    The above is pretty much what I'm ultimately building with my 86.

    Best regards!
    Last edited by erratic50; 08-02-2017 at 11:44 PM.

  10. #35
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Sounds like a great plan... very similar to mine actually.

    I'll be using smaller chambers, and the following pistons to raise my compression... calculated around 10.5:1... these just came in today:

    Name:  keithblackpistons1.jpg
Views: 373
Size:  98.4 KB

    Name:  keithblackpistons2.jpg
Views: 365
Size:  83.0 KB

    I changed my mind on my wheels today, decided to sell the Anniversary wheels, and will be running these 18's instead. We'll see how they turn out. Installing the rear diff this weekend, and mounting tires tomorrow for final test fit. Not sure if I will be doing 275-35-18's or 255-35-18's.

    Name:  20170803_172632_resized.jpg
Views: 373
Size:  125.4 KB

    Name:  20170803_172640_resized.jpg
Views: 366
Size:  120.2 KB

    Name:  20170803_174541_resized.jpg
Views: 370
Size:  105.5 KB

  11. #36
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    My buddy and I were able to get the rear differential wrapped up tonight, and we got it installed in the car. It went in easily, and appears to be perfectly centered in the car.

    The best part... it looks like the 18" wheels with the 275-35-18's will fit! I will need to roll fenders (which I already planned to do). I love the look at an angle, lots of rubber back there.... love the view from the rear as well. Pretty crazy that my buddies Chevelle has the same size wheels and tires on it.... I didn't think they would fit. There is about 1/2" clearance inside, and as you can see on the last pic, right against the fender (before rolling). planning to run just a tad taller than where it sits in these pics.

    Name:  reartirefitment1.jpg
Views: 358
Size:  85.0 KB

    Name:  reartirefitment2.jpg
Views: 363
Size:  108.2 KB

    Name:  reartirefitment3.jpg
Views: 359
Size:  94.1 KB

    Name:  reartirefitment5.jpg
Views: 355
Size:  86.2 KB

    Name:  reartirefitment6.jpg
Views: 355
Size:  70.8 KB

  12. #37
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Cordova, TN
    Posts
    994

    Default

    Nice car. Wish my 85 looked that good! I know it's way back, but the post about the upper torque mount reinforcement. You can still run the rear seat. I do. I did take a cut off wheel and cut the studs sticking above the nuts, then dressed them to remove any burrs.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  13. #38

    Default

    So did you go with the 8 inch wheels for the front or are you trying fit the 10's up there too? And what was the offset/backspacing on them if you don't mind?
    Last edited by red86vert; 08-15-2017 at 09:10 PM.

  14. #39
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    Nice car. Wish my 85 looked that good! I know it's way back, but the post about the upper torque mount reinforcement. You can still run the rear seat. I do. I did take a cut off wheel and cut the studs sticking above the nuts, then dressed them to remove any burrs.
    Perfect, thanks for clarifying that

  15. #40
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by red86vert View Post
    So did you go with the 8 inch wheels for the front or are you trying fit the 10's up there too? And what was the offset/backspacing on them if you don't mind?
    I ultimately decided on 18x10 rears and 18x8 up front, they fit well. The SVE wheels I was going to run were 17x10 and 17x9, and even the 9's up front almost hit my coilovers. This explains why the gentleman that I saw that ran the 10's up front needed 8mm spacers... that's too much poke/fender pulling for me.

  16. #41
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Yea, a buddy of mine said it this way - if you want ton of rubber under your Mustang buy a newer one.

    If you want an unfiltered driving experience on enough rubber with enough torque for the weight that it's a blast to drive - install what fits on a foxbody and drive it.

    Fits...... there's that darn word. We just keep pushing the envelope and "making it fit".

    When you really look at it, Ford did a good job with the 93 Cobra. Yes you CAN squeeze more under a fox, but not a lot more. And when you do it, you have to go shorter and wider which means the car won't meet Ford's ground clearance standards of the period.
    Last edited by erratic50; 08-16-2017 at 10:28 PM.

  17. #42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    I ultimately decided on 18x10 rears and 18x8 up front, they fit well. The SVE wheels I was going to run were 17x10 and 17x9, and even the 9's up front almost hit my coilovers. This explains why the gentleman that I saw that ran the 10's up front needed 8mm spacers... that's too much poke/fender pulling for me.
    I'm looking at something very similar on my 86 but using the 96-04 spindles that come with the SVE 5 lug conversion disc brake kit. I think you're using 94/95 but could you tell me the offset/backspacing on your front and rears? I can do the math from there to see how much extra offset will fit mine. What tire size you running on the front?
    Last edited by red86vert; 08-17-2017 at 12:55 PM.

  18. #43
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    If I remember correctly the 1996 to 2004 spindles add 1/2" (13 mm) to each side in the front, correct me if I'm wrong. My front wheels are 18x8.5 (just realized that... I thought they were 18x, and have a +25mm offset, which comes out to a 5.73" backspacing, and a 1.75" lip. I decided to run a 245-40-18 Nitto NT555 Tire, and it fits perfectly, and shouldn't rub (won't know until I get the engine mounted and the car back on the ground). For your car, with an 8.5" wheel and a similar offset, I think it may just fit with a little fender rolling. I don't think I will need to roll my front fenders, but we will see.

    As for the rears, I am running 18x10 with a +25mm offset, which is a 6.48" backspacing and a 3.5" lip. I am running a 275-35-18 Nitto NT555 tire, which ultimately gives me the same sidewall height front to rear, and almost identical rollout. I love the look of the NT555, and it fits well in our cars wheel wells. I was skeptical that the 275 would fit... I almost did a 255, but I am glad that I stuck with the 275.

    There is just under 1/2" clearance between the wheel tub and the inside of the tire, and with rolled rear fenders, I will have plenty of room to go as low as I want. I probably won't tuck tire, mostly because, in my opinion, unless you are on air and can adjust it on the fly, I don't think a static tucked look looks that good on the fox bodies. Now, I love low cars, and will be lowering this as far as I can go while still keeping it looking balanced. Whereas on European cars that I've modified, I like to have a small bit of tuck. All that to say, this wheel/tire combo seems to be the best to run with, as it places the wheel/tire exactly where they need to be, without significant modification to the wheel wells.

  19. #44

    Default

    Cool thank you for all the details, helps a lot!

    According to wraithracing the 96-04 front spindles will stick out .32 inches (8.2mm). The 18x8 I'm looking at state 35mm offset with 5.88" backspace so IF that is correct I should be GTG. In the rear I'm looking at an 18x9.5 with 40mm and 6.82 backspace. The other option on the rear would be 18x9 with 30mm and 6.18 which I don't think gives enough margin of error on the backspace. I am willing to run a small spacer on the front or rear or both since the car is not putting down gobs of power and it would be done right with longer studs and hubcentric spacers. Again, thanks for the details vdubn and if anyone sees something wrong with my setup please speak up here http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-on-86-GT-vert
    Last edited by red86vert; 08-17-2017 at 08:03 PM.

  20. #45
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    With the help from a good friend tonight, we got the MM Panhard Bar and the freshly powder coated rear sway bar installed. I have to say, it went more smooth than I thought it would. MM did a great job in their design, and all measurements came within spec. All in all it turned out excellent.

    Name:  panhardbar1.jpg
Views: 202
Size:  104.4 KB

    Name:  panhardbar2.jpg
Views: 208
Size:  93.7 KB

    Name:  panhardbar3.jpg
Views: 205
Size:  120.3 KB

    Name:  panhardbar4.jpg
Views: 203
Size:  114.9 KB

    Name:  panhardbar5.jpg
Views: 205
Size:  92.6 KB

  21. #46
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Made some good progress this weekend. Got all of the floor cracks (there were only 3 that needed attention), finished and primed the strut towers, and I got the drivers seat mount fixed. Here are some pics of the work:

    Name:  rearpanrepair.jpg
Views: 168
Size:  33.1 KB

    Name:  seatmountrepair.jpg
Views: 167
Size:  83.9 KB

    Name:  struttowerrepair1.jpg
Views: 167
Size:  84.2 KB

    Name:  struttowerrepair2.jpg
Views: 165
Size:  93.2 KB

  22. #47
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Also got the engine back from the builder, and it turned out great. It looks like I can get away with a 1/2" intake spacer, but am not sure what folks do when the intake is so close to the valve cover on the drivers side. I am guessing no room for a breather or even a cap, so probably just a plug. I wanted to do a fill tube on the passengers side, but thinking I probably need to do a breather. I would be curious what others do with limited space like this.

    Name:  rebuiltengine1.jpg
Views: 163
Size:  121.0 KB

    Name:  rebuiltengine2.jpg
Views: 165
Size:  128.0 KB

  23. #48
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Also made a decision to get rid of the steel inner fenders in front of the strut towers. After trying to weld back in the drivers side, the gaps were too large from whatever the previous owner used to try to cut the panel out. I think he may have used a 1/4" cutoff wheel

    I ended up finding these, which will really sharpen up the engine bay, and require me to remove these panels anyway. This will eliminate the little bit of rust in the car, and will look great. These should be finished in about 2 weeks, I'll post pics as I get the engine bay painted, and get these installed.

    Name:  carbon-inner-fenders.jpg
Views: 163
Size:  126.9 KB

  24. #49

    Default

    Carbon fiber? Would you mind giving some details on those please?

  25. #50
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    455

    Default

    Sure thing... the inner fenders need to be cut like the following pic, and they come in small and large panels (basically in front of the strut towers, and covering the strut towers). I have some ugly stuff between my strut tower and fender rail that is purely cosmetic, but not easy to fix.... and the previous owner already cut my drivers side panel out in front of the strut tower, so this fixed both issues. Another benefit, since these waterfall over the lower frame rail, I will run most of my wiring under the panels, on top of the rail, to keep the wiring hidden. Hoping it will turn out well.

    These can be adhered with panel adhesive (makes them pretty much permanent), or, as I will be doing, I will be using the adhesive used for windshields, to hold these into place, then my CC plates, and stock prop. valve will hold the drivers side panel in, plus some discreet pop rivets in the corners. On the passenger side, I need to figure out a way to make a clean opening for the cold air intake, and then will be mounting my MSD and coil to help keep the panel in place, and use the same discreet pop rivets in the corners.

    Also added some pics of some examples the guy sent over to me. They aren't cheap, but they look great, and do save a few lbs to boot.


    Name:  innerfendercutout1.jpg
Views: 149
Size:  94.2 KB

    Name:  innerfendercutout2.jpg
Views: 152
Size:  162.1 KB

    Name:  carboninnerfender-driver1.jpg
Views: 148
Size:  200.5 KB

    Name:  carboninnerfender-passenger1.jpg
Views: 146
Size:  211.1 KB

    Name:  carboninnerfenders1.jpg
Views: 148
Size:  192.9 KB

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •