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  1. #1
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Default Brake Line Routing

    This got brought up in a different thread of mine so I figured I would post this topic here. Judging by some of the "quality" work my car has gotten from owners past, the topic of brake line routing came up. My 84 GT came from the factory with single exhaust and has since been converted to duals. Also I'm assuming that the rear has been swapped to an 8.8 judging by the differential shape as there is no tag to be found. Maybe someone can confirm it for me that is well versed in these rears.

    Everything I have looked up leans towards this setup not being correct for the dual exhaust conversion but I would like to have more opinions on it from people who know this way better than me. Can this setup safely be used or is there something else I need to?



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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Default

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Default

    It's definitely an 8.8.

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    The rear axle is an 8.8 unit.

    The brake lines appear to be the stock single exhaust routing and parts that have been installed on the rear axle.

    The dual exhaust brake line would be almost directly above the rear differential when it transitions from the hard line to the flexible line to the rear axle. The axle brake lines would connect on the driver side off center at the top of the differential with a bracket that bolts down to the bottom web of the axle. I should be able to get some pictures of everything for you later today when I go out to work in the garage.

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #5

    Default

    Yep. More quality workmanship. When the 8.8 was swapped in, they just moved the 7.5 hard lines
    over to it, and called it good. 'Ceptinfur it's not. It looks like they did try to position the hose so it
    wouldn't rub on the tailpipe, at least at normal ride height. And that's the rub, so to speak.

    The only way to be sure it won't ever rub on the tailpipe is to move the rear suspension through every
    position it can occupy, while watching the hose to make sure it stays clear. Which is WAY more work
    than relocating the hose to the center, where Ford put it on every dual-exhaust Mustang since 1964.

    When I did my first dual-exhaust swap into a Fairmont wagon in 1989, my rear brake line looked a lot
    like yours, and I -thought- I had it where it would never rub. But it did. Fortunately for me, it rubbed
    in the section where those circular ribs are, and didn't get through the hose. But it was only a matter
    of time.

    I was not quite so fortunate with my '65. The PO that converted it to duals -thought- it was clear too.
    I still get chills when I recall blowing through that intersection with my family in the car, and zero brakes.
    Only by the grace of God...
    Last edited by JACook; 12-24-2015 at 11:57 AM.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Here are some pictures from my 91 GT. This should help you visual how the lines are run and where they are located compared to yours. If you need additional pictures or information, feel free to PM me.

    Good Luck!

    Trey

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    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Default

    That's what I was was thinking and afraid of. Looks like I need to add this to the growing laundry list for this car.

    So.......
    I guess I need to find
    The bracket and block for the differential
    New lines to reroute to somewhere else, like later model lines

    Do these run up the center of the car following the trans tunnel?

    P.S. Trey......you really need to clean the gunk off the bottom of your car!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The bracket, block, and flexible line for the rear differential can be bought at most parts stores. You will either need 8.8 lines from the 86-93 cars or modify yours to fit.

    The rear brake line runs along the outer pinchweld an then it turns in towards the center of the vehicle at @ the same location as the rear brake cables go through. Then it crosses over to above the driver side muffler. You can either swap in the later model lines or modify yours to fit as needed.

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    Gunk will be cleaned off before reassembly. Do I need to provide pictures as proof of this?

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Default

    Trey,

    Am I looking at this correctly? The brake line runs along the pass. pinch weld, much like the earlier models, crosses over into the trans tunnel, and up behind the pinion snubber to the brake line bracket?

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Default

    Were there any differences in the brake lines between the models in the 1992-93 years? There is a '93 in the u-pull it here, but it is more than likely a 4 cyl car. If it does not have the right parts, then I would assume not lay in 6" of snow pulling the lines and accessories just to find out they are wrong.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #11

    Default

    4-cylinder Foxen had the brake line routed to the passenger side like yours is, regardless of year. Only
    dual-exhaust cars got the center brake hose location. This is a long-standing tradition that must make
    sense to someone at Ford, but I've never really understood it.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Thanks Mr. Cook, I figured that was going to be the case. I will keep looking around hoping I score everything. I did call the yard and it is a 4 cylinder, so I scratch it off the list.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member qtrracer's Avatar
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    So the guy put an 8.8 in the car but retained the single shear shock mounts?

  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    I bought that bracket by the pinion snubber on eBay for 50 bucks, I have a flaring tool, so I'm going to find what I believe is the best place to cut the factory line, and run it into the trans tunnel so it is out of the way.

    Heck, I even need to buy a factory pinion snubber too. The list is longer than my leg on things I didn't plan on having to do, but I want it done right.

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    I don't want the car to look like "Jethro's Auto Repair and Salvage" did it.

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qtrracer View Post
    So the guy put an 8.8 in the car but retained the single shear shock mounts?
    Didn't pay any mind to that....I wonder what this rear end is out of? Like the rest of the car has been turning out to be, I have a mish mash of questionable parts and workmanship.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    I bought that bracket by the pinion snubber on eBay for 50 bucks, I have a flaring tool, so I'm going to find what I believe is the best place to cut the factory line, and run it into the trans tunnel so it is out of the way.

    Heck, I even need to buy a factory pinion snubber too. The list is longer than my leg on things I didn't plan on having to do, but I want it done right.
    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    I don't want the car to look like "Jethro's Auto Repair and Salvage" did it.
    That's precisely why I'm asking a ton of questions now that my car is down. I had a pretty sizeable list to complete this winter but as things get brought up or noticed, priorities are shifting. I want to get this car put back together correctly and have it be safe and hopefully reliable. I'm not a big fan of the old hang and bang as those never make good upgrades. Wish some of the PO's had that same mentality.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  18. #18
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Checked everything out, and believe I have it pegged. Instead of running all new rear lines, right in front of the passenger side torque box, the brake line turns from the pinch weld, and runs to the frame rail, where it does a 90 and runs to the rear of the car.

    Directly in front of the torque box is a nice open area, where the line can be cut, flared, and move into the trans tunnel. Ford might not have put a union here, but I'm betting this is the only difference in the lines. I'm using the union that I removed to install my prop valve. I love recycling.

    The lines won't interfere with anything. Just have to do a little bending, and flaring. Should be interesting, as I've never flared a line on my back before.

  19. #19
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    It, another option. Doesn't say, V8 or anything, might have to ask. Name:  image.jpg
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  20. #20
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Maybe this will help. Had to look in the help section on why my pics are always rotated. If you have an iPhone, take your pics with the volume buttons down. Name:  image.jpg
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  21. #21
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    After contacting NPD, they couldn't tell me why the brake line numbers were not listed for V8 and 4 cylinders. All they could say is that the rear lines sold single, do in fact have a different part number than the complete kits. Perhaps if you asked for a Mustang guy there, they could confirm.

    My thought process is, with the new brake lines they make, that bend easily, you could slap a union in there, and make it look dang close to factory.

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    After contacting NPD, they couldn't tell me why the brake line numbers were not listed for V8 and 4 cylinders. All they could say is that the rear lines sold single, do in fact have a different part number than the complete kits. Perhaps if you asked for a Mustang guy there, they could confirm.

    My thought process is, with the new brake lines they make, that bend easily, you could slap a union in there, and make it look dang close to factory.
    I'm leaning towards running all new lines to the rear. The brakes are not one area I want to leak or fail. I suppose that if a splice was to be made to save some time and money, I would probably be inclined to use a Swagelock fitting instead of trying to flare. I might take a closer look at that option when I get there. If you do it before I do, feel free to throw up some pics on how you accomplished it.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  23. #23
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Will do. I'm just getting flustered being on a budget, and all this crap keeps popping up. Kid you not, it is turning out to be mid summer now, before I have the rest of the loot to get it on the road.

    How much can you get for a kidney? Or a liver? Do you really even need that thing?

  24. #24
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    Will do. I'm just getting flustered being on a budget, and all this crap keeps popping up. Kid you not, it is turning out to be mid summer now, before I have the rest of the loot to get it on the road.

    How much can you get for a kidney? Or a liver? Do you really even need that thing?
    LMAO! I'm sure you can live without a few internal organs.

    I feel your pain, I had a sizeable list already and now through exhaust and brake work on top of it and the budget is shot to heck. I'm not looking forward to what else I'm going to find when I tear further into it, as this car has been interesting so far with backwoods repairs.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    Directly in front of the torque box is a nice open area, where the line can be cut, flared, and move into the trans tunnel
    If you're going to use a union anyway, why not just start by straightening the 90º sweep where the
    line crosses over the frame rail, and run it across the back of the footwell? Seems like that would get
    you most of the way to where you need to be, without cutting and re-flaring anything.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

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