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  1. #26
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    If you cut carefully you should be able to use one extra door molding to get the other 4 pieces for between the wheels. You will need to either refurbish your original moldings next to the bumpers or buy better used ones as they are not reproduced at this time and they are thicker than the moldings between the wheels. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  2. #27
    FEP Supporter 82GTforME's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by KWH View Post
    I use Valspar Base/Clear. Paint and supplies are stupid high.
    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    ^^^^^^This right here! Paint is ridiculous, then add on the cost of all the "expendables" needed to perform the job correctly takes the cost out of hand quick.
    I used Valspar products also. Can't comment on the longevity yet but it seems to be a quality product. That means not cheap. Hard for me to buy in quantity but I've bought a mixed quart of base for as much as $100 Canadian. Add 2K primer/ sealer and clear coat and that works out to over $1000 in material, plus sanding material, fillers, reducers etc.....

    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    My paint job is running well above the amounts you've been quoted, and even above what Trey is saying. There was some repair work to be done and it is a strip to bare metal job. The paint and body work being done is show quality too so a lot of time spent blocking and sanding all the panels at every step. The materials alone will be into the $12-14K (Cdn) range. Its getting a first coat of epoxy primer, followed by polyester primers. Those have to be perfect for the water based paint and then clear coat on that.
    That's a big cost for sure but the quality of the work is amazing Ed! When we decided to do the whole Tangerine coupe, that's the reason I decided to the work myself. The cost of my labour saved me big time or it would have never happened!

    fgross good luck with your choice! Going cheap may be a good option depending on your future for the car. If you plan on keeping it long term, it may be worth the added cost to go up to the next "tier" of pricing or more. If it's your DD and you don't care how it looks in five years or if you'd masybe redo it again, the cheap option may be the best. Years ago we redid my wife's white Cavalier. Looked okay I guess if you don't really care about the details. It showed deterioration on some edges and rust spots in a year or two.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) T-Top GT RestoMod:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...other-79-Coupe!

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