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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default Ready to paint my convertible

    I have been to a few different body shops to get quotes and they do vary.

    One shop quoted $7000 for a "professional show car restoration". While this sounds nice 7 G's is way too much. I could buy a car in great condition for that much.

    I tried 2 different Mako's. One said $2500 for 2 tone black and white paint job with the old paint being stripped first. but the car will be there 4 to 5 weeks. I don't like the long wait. The other Mako said $3000 no paint stripping, he will DA the car, tape off all trim and no guarantee on the front and rear bumper covers cracking. He will have the car a week. Sounds like a rush job and a bitter disappointment.

    I tried a local body shop near me was told 3 or 4 thousand for complete paint stripping, molding removal and everything the car needs for a good resto job. I like what he offers but I'd like to not go over 3 grand. I actually didn't want to spend more then 2 G but am realizing that's not gonna happen.

    Whats a realistic price and scope of work I should expect for an 84 convertible, white with black headlight buckets and hood stripe?

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
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    When I had mine done about 5 years ago I tore the car down myself knowing I wanted the trim painted separately and with care. I had quotes all over the place...from $600 (Macco) to $8k (show quality), hey it's white! I went with a guy that had been around on his own for many years. He kept the car a little longer but I was okay with that given I wanted it done right...and it still looks like it did when I picked it up. He stripped the car down to bare metal on the top surfaces and sprayed 2-3 more layers on the hood. He also worked with me to get the charcoal trim color correct which was important to me.
    Last edited by bwguardian; 05-16-2017 at 08:26 PM.
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

    HAVE
    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    My body guy said around 4k to
    5k. That was down to bare metal, fixing small hail dents. Ect.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtmilsap View Post
    My body guy said around 4k to
    5k. That was down to bare metal, fixing small hail dents. Ect.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    I might add that there was no body work to be done on mine...I know, hard to believe no door dings...
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

    HAVE
    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride

  5. #5
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    Default

    I paint a few cars in a years time and the rate is $3500 and up. I use Valspar Base/Clear. Paint and supplies are stupid high.

  6. #6
    FEP Supporter webestang's Avatar
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    I was quoted from $1200 to $3000 for just paint for my 88 vert, I would do all the body work and prep. So I painted it myself.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow (My Pop decided to borrow this instead of the Vic "It's too big!"...LOL)
    1996 Crown Vic LX 4.6 Silver "Gort" Daily Driver

    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by KWH View Post
    Paint and supplies are stupid high.
    ^^^^^^This right here! Paint is ridiculous, then add on the cost of all the "expendables" needed to perform the job correctly takes the cost out of hand quick.

    I have a buddy that does paint and bodywork on the side and people come to him looking for a price. They get bent out of shape when he gives them a quote cause it is too d@mn high. He simply tells them to go price out the paint themselves and they will see he doesn't make jack on the job.
    He finally told everyone to buy the paint and what supplies he needed to perform the work and they would just pay him labor. It was a lot less stressful for him that way.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  8. #8
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    I painted mine myself. Using cheap single stage white Nason paint, including consumables (tack cloths, etc) sanding supplies, compounds, etc, it cost me around $1200 in materials. It's not cheap to do, and i only paid myself in beer and bourbon.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member smitty54's Avatar
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    Default

    Whatever you do, don't use Macco, you'll not be happy with the end results. As stated above, paint has become very expensive and if the car is to have all molding removed and stripped to bare metal, $8000 is not out of the question. I'm in the middle of restoring a 68 Cougar and to have everything stripped down to bare metal, sandblast and paint the engine compartment and underside, sandblast and paint the interior floor pans, and some bodywork will cost me $8500.
    "Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac."
    George Carlin, Rest in peace

    Rick
    84 GT Convertible
    68 Cougar XR7
    13 Lincoln MKX

  10. #10
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Bottom line is it takes @ 40 - 50 hours to do a complete prep and repaint of a Fox body Mustang/Capri. How do I know . . . I have painted between 50 and 75 of them over the years. Some cars take more, but very few take less than that when doing a complete repaint and doing it RIGHT.

    Right includes removing the trim, tail lights, headlights, door handles, antennae, etc. all the miscellaneous pieces that most shops will mask off. All that takes time to do. Then you have the basic prep work of getting the surface ready for paint. Stripping to bare metal is not needed or even recommend unless you have major paint issues with the OEM paint or the cars has been painted multiple times. Taking to bare metal is fine if you want a top notch job, but plan on paying for the added labor and the added material costs.

    As stated paint materials (or at least quality materials) are NOT CHEAP!!!!! A basic repaint of a Fox will require a minimum of 3 quarts sprayable in single stage and that is again a MINIMUM paint job at best. You add in jambs, edges, engine bay, etc. and a couple of extra coats for cut and buff and you are easily at a gallon of paint in single stage. Two tones and/or Base Coat/Clear Coats will require more paint and again more money. Quality sand paper, primers, activators, cleaners, adhesion promoters, flex agents, masking materials, tack cloths, etc. all add up and affect the final costs. As many have already stated, you will easily be in the $750-$1500 range on paint and supplies depending on brand of paint, primer, and misc materials. Anything less than that and you either have a Super hook up for supplies and I want their number and information or you are buying second rate goods.

    Do the math on labor rates assuming a minimum of 40-50 hours of work and you will see why a decent paint job will cost a minimum of $2500-3500 for most vehicles including materials. Anything less than that and they are cutting corners somewhere. They are either using cheap materials, less materials, less labor, or doing the job as fill in labor. There is nothing magical or top secret about paint and body work. Quality materials plus quality labor equals a quality paint job.

    Not exactly the same as a Fox Mustang, but I am getting ready to paint a couple of classic Muscle cars for some friends and friends of friends. One is a 73 Mustang and that one is nothing more than a strip and repaint back to original. I will get the vehicle as an empty stripped shell on a body cart. The car needs no major rust repair or damage repair and only needs some basic blocking and prep work. That is a $10K paint job between materials and labor. I have another job that is the same basic setup and again it will be a minimum $10K paint job if not more. A major rust repair on an old Mercury Monterey Police car will be probably in the $15-20K range due to the repair work. All of those prices are less than what the owners were quoted at multiple body shops, so they are more than happy to pay my price for the same quality of work.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member
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    My personal experience... if you want it done right then it is to better pay for a quality job, or you will just end up paying twice because paint will crack, bubbles will appear, color will not be ok, it will not be bright, etc... they "all" look shinny after the paint, but wait a couple months till you start seeing the real quality of a cheap job...

  12. #12

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    X2 with Trey

  13. #13

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    Trey - interested in taking on an old fox that's been around the block a few more times than most? If so - pm me. The only guarantee in the job is there will be plenty of cutting rusty crap out and welding nice replacement panels in.

    Back in the early 90's I helped a few buddies redo their cars on the cheap. Price vs quality test results at the time Ace paints were a real gem so Ace Enamel right off the shelf and cut with thinner as needed to make it shoot out of a spray gun is what we used.

    In 97 I had rust coming big time on my 200K+ mile 86GT due to bad prep before a resprayed I had done. rock chips caused surface rust and they just shot primer over it. I spent the weekend with my dad grinding back 3 year old Martin Senior base/clear and treating the solid metal I got down to with Extends and building it back up to a smooth surface then we resprayed absolutely everything below the grey trim belt on my car with - you guessed it - multiple coats of Ace Enamel. It was a hurried job started Friday and I was driving my car again on Monday but it wasn't rushed. There's a big difference - we spent the time required.

    The pict I have as my icon was taken shortly after that paint had cured and could be polished. It's not possible to tell it apart from the base coat / clearcoat that covers the rest of the car in that shot. We always intended to scuff it and shoot it with clear but never did.

    It lasted longer than anyone should expect. When the rusty spots started showing up again at 350K+ I was working 2 jobs putting in around 120 hours working 7 days most weeks to keep a roof over my young family's head. That in spite of insurance companies declaring bankruptcy and sticking me with over $50K in bills that were being aggressively collected. So the old fox got only what was absolutely necessary and I kept on driving it daily. It served us faithfully and we survived that very difficult period in life but the ol horse suffered the consequences



    My points are
    1 - prep work is key.
    2 - Paint quality reviews will save you huge amounts of money if you do your homework.
    3 - if you don't do your homework you may pay a premium for paint that yields a below average finish long term due to the shop or the products or both
    4 - try not to let stuff like rust repairs and under car care go if you at all can or there will be much less left of your car when you get to it (like mine)
    Last edited by erratic50; 05-18-2017 at 01:08 AM.

  14. #14
    FEP Supporter roush235's Avatar
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    X2 with Trey.

    I have recently had some paint work done on a couple vehicles (e.g. bumper cover damage/issues). I casually asked what a whole-car repaint might cost for my Four-Eye. While looking at the car, and without batting an eye, the shop manager said "to do it right, and that is what this car deserves, $10K."
    Bob in Lebanon, TN
    79 original owner six cylinder coupe
    MCA Gold Card judge for 3rd Generation cars

  15. #15
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Trey - interested in taking on an old fox that's been around the block a few more times than most? If so - pm me. The only guarantee in the job is there will be plenty of cutting rusty crap out and welding nice replacement panels in.
    You never know! I might be willing. Let me get the vehicles wrapped up that I have already agreed to and we'll see from there.

    One additional comment I will make in regards to "Quality Material" that I recommended in my previous post. I never stated that the materials had to be name brand or Expensive. I am a bargain shopper just as much as the next guy. I have no issues using a product that might not have the Big Company Name, or Advertising Budget but works just as well. With that said, I will admit that the top of the line products from companies such as BASF, DuPont, PPG, Spies Hecker, 3M, etc are generally all very good products so nothing wrong with using those if you budget allows. Several of the companies offer lower tier lines that perform just as well, but at a fraction of a the price. The same can be said for many other brands that again don't have the Big name. I personally have used both the Eastwood line of automotive paints as well as the Summit Racing line of automotive paints and as a single stage paint they perform very well considering the price. Are they the same quality as Sikkens, PPG, etc. top of the line . . . NO! But they work very well and do what you need/want for the average Fox or any other vehicle.

    I personally love House Of Kolor paints and use them A LOT as they allow me to customize my cars to my individual tastes and desires without the concern of seeing my same color on another vehicle EVER! The paint line is not cheap, but when compared to PPG, DuPont, Sikkens, and others the price point is pretty good IMHO. Now I am not a stock guy, so very few of my cars are painted back to original colors and therefore HOK works well for me. Although you could probably get very close to many OEM colors with HOK, they will most likely not be an exact match.

    So what I am trying to say is that buy the best materials you can afford and don't worry about the brand names, etc. There are plenty of good products out there that do a very good job and will last a long time on the average Fox when properly applied and cared for.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  16. #16
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    My paint job is running well above the amounts you've been quoted, and even above what Trey is saying. There was some repair work to be done and it is a strip to bare metal job. The paint and body work being done is show quality too so a lot of time spent blocking and sanding all the panels at every step. The materials alone will be into the $12-14K (Cdn) range. Its getting a first coat of epoxy primer, followed by polyester primers. Those have to be perfect for the water based paint and then clear coat on that.

  17. #17
    FEP Supporter webestang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    So what I am trying to say is that buy the best materials you can afford and don't worry about the brand names, etc. There are plenty of good products out there that do a very good job and will last a long time on the average Fox when properly applied and cared for.

    Trey knows his stuff. I went with Eastwood products. Inexpensive but still good quality.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow (My Pop decided to borrow this instead of the Vic "It's too big!"...LOL)
    1996 Crown Vic LX 4.6 Silver "Gort" Daily Driver

    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  18. #18

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    Consumer reports has released articles in the past that give a real indication of what you're buying when it comes to paint.

    The thing that will be fun about redoing my car is the amount of new metal it needs. But the flip side is when you are all done you have new metal. And can throw the good stuff at it like the high end torque boxes, etc, since you are already there anyway.

    A few years down the road I'll likely get a Viper or something similar to tool around in with my wife just for fun. That said there's a great chance my foxbody build will ultimately destroy the Viper in every way imaginable. And for 1/3 the budget. But this is by design. Hell, that's at least 1/2 the fun of having a foxbody- maybe more. The foxbody Mustang has never really been a big chick magnet in its lifetime but several sure have put up some unexpectedly bad-ass performances.

  19. #19

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    Not that it's what you're looking for, but a high end restoration will run $60k+.

    It really depends on what you're wanting in the end.

    Average nice paint job will be $5k though. Research the shops you go to. Find out what material they use, etc....

  20. #20

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    The last three cars I painted I used PPG's Shop Line brand. It is a cost affective line for busy body shops doing insurance jobs. I like the paint. It sprays nice. I used bc/cc.

  21. #21

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    Ive painted lots of cars since early 80s. I started out on Lacquer and Enamel.

    Materials are super expensive.
    Spraying is dangerous, if you do only attempt it by learning from somebody that knows and understands the dangers.
    The chemicals are poisonous, vapors can explode,mix too much and you are tossing 30 bucks or lots more in the garbage.
    I do most body work by hand, its harder but better results.
    Some colors cost more than others.

    Macco uses cheaper house brand materials. OK but not the best.
    If you get away from a big city, you might find a better rate on complete redo.

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    I been going to other shops to see what they say and 2 of them yesterday said around 6 grand for full resto. As much as I'd like to I just cant drop 6 grand on a paint job. I'm not interested in door jams, engine compartment, trunk compartment, replacing radiator mount etc. That's just extra stuff that raises the cost of the job.

    Serous thought being given to going back to the Macco in Hempstead NY. That guy has a good rep and seemed to know his stuff. At the end of the day I just want to car painted, not a full blown resto.

  23. #23
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Nothing wrong with a Maaco, Earl Schieb, etc. paint job. Just as long as you understand that in general you are getting an entry level or bargain paint job in most cases. This is because their materials are not the same quality as the top of the line PPG, Dupont, Sikkens, BASF, etc. Generally their materials will be comparable to the entry level paint lines for the brands listed or even the lesser known brands. The other way to keep costs down is the amount of prep work before the car is painted.

    If you want the best bargain paint job you can get, then your best option when dealing with Maaco or something like that is do go with their @$300-$500 range paint job. Then you prep the vehicle for paint by removing all the trim, such as window weather stripping, headlights, tail lights, mirrors, windshield trim, etc. Anything that is not going to be painted the main body color. I know others that have gone so far as to loosen the front and rear bumper covers then add nuts or washers to space the covers off the fenders and quarters, then lightly tighten the covers back up. This allows paint to flow in between the pieces and not have an edge or line that could possible chip, flake later on. You can also do a nice prep of the body for paint by degreasing the entire car and then scuffing it up with a grey Scotchbrite before dropping it off. Make sure to wash and clean the vehicle thoroughly too to remove any debris in the door jambs, windshield trim, trunk lid, hood, etc.

    All of that will help to improve the quality of your paint job and ultimately make it last as long as possible all while keeping the costs as low as possible. Good luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  24. #24
    FEP Power Member plumkrazy's Avatar
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    Neat Idea about the spacers for the bumper covers.
    1 of 3 1985 Silver Grand Prix Capr's
    My first New car and still own 1986 Capri

  25. #25
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Nothing wrong with a Maaco, Earl Schieb, etc. paint job. Just as long as you understand that in general you are getting an entry level or bargain paint job in most cases. This is because their materials are not the same quality as the top of the line PPG, Dupont, Sikkens, BASF, etc. Generally their materials will be comparable to the entry level paint lines for the brands listed or even the lesser known brands. The other way to keep costs down is the amount of prep work before the car is painted.

    If you want the best bargain paint job you can get, then your best option when dealing with Maaco or something like that is do go with their @$300-$500 range paint job. Then you prep the vehicle for paint by removing all the trim, such as window weather stripping, headlights, tail lights, mirrors, windshield trim, etc. Anything that is not going to be painted the main body color. I know others that have gone so far as to loosen the front and rear bumper covers then add nuts or washers to space the covers off the fenders and quarters, then lightly tighten the covers back up. This allows paint to flow in between the pieces and not have an edge or line that could possible chip, flake later on. You can also do a nice prep of the body for paint by degreasing the entire car and then scuffing it up with a grey Scotchbrite before dropping it off. Make sure to wash and clean the vehicle thoroughly too to remove any debris in the door jambs, windshield trim, trunk lid, hood, etc.

    All of that will help to improve the quality of your paint job and ultimately make it last as long as possible all while keeping the costs as low as possible. Good luck!
    I settled on a local old school body shop in my town (Freeport NY) called Atlantic Auto Body.

    All their reviews on Google and Yelp and 5 star. The owner said they would remove everything before paint but wont strip to bare metal. He feels the paint on the car now can be scuffed and leave a nice finish. He will repair my existing front and rear bumper covers. Fix chips, waves and rust. paint job will be black and white with hood stripe, headlight buckets and black trim. Price he offered is $3500 bottom dollar up to $4500 if he finds any surprises that add time and materials to the job. I asked him to try to keep it close to $3500. He will try. He told me collision work has been slow lately and all his jobs are resto jobs. Their bread and butter are crash and dent repairs so full car restorations isn't what they like. I had more then a few shops turn me way unwilling to even price it out.

    he did say I should get new body trim and I see LMR only has door trim available for 79-84 but not the small pieces. If I buy 2 door kits will there be enough length to cut up the extra pieces?

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6120938K/79...de-molding-kit

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