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  1. #26
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    If you cut carefully you should be able to use one extra door molding to get the other 4 pieces for between the wheels. You will need to either refurbish your original moldings next to the bumpers or buy better used ones as they are not reproduced at this time and they are thicker than the moldings between the wheels. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  2. #27
    FEP Supporter 82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KWH View Post
    I use Valspar Base/Clear. Paint and supplies are stupid high.
    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    ^^^^^^This right here! Paint is ridiculous, then add on the cost of all the "expendables" needed to perform the job correctly takes the cost out of hand quick.
    I used Valspar products also. Can't comment on the longevity yet but it seems to be a quality product. That means not cheap. Hard for me to buy in quantity but I've bought a mixed quart of base for as much as $100 Canadian. Add 2K primer/ sealer and clear coat and that works out to over $1000 in material, plus sanding material, fillers, reducers etc.....

    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    My paint job is running well above the amounts you've been quoted, and even above what Trey is saying. There was some repair work to be done and it is a strip to bare metal job. The paint and body work being done is show quality too so a lot of time spent blocking and sanding all the panels at every step. The materials alone will be into the $12-14K (Cdn) range. Its getting a first coat of epoxy primer, followed by polyester primers. Those have to be perfect for the water based paint and then clear coat on that.
    That's a big cost for sure but the quality of the work is amazing Ed! When we decided to do the whole Tangerine coupe, that's the reason I decided to the work myself. The cost of my labour saved me big time or it would have never happened!

    fgross good luck with your choice! Going cheap may be a good option depending on your future for the car. If you plan on keeping it long term, it may be worth the added cost to go up to the next "tier" of pricing or more. If it's your DD and you don't care how it looks in five years or if you'd masybe redo it again, the cheap option may be the best. Years ago we redid my wife's white Cavalier. Looked okay I guess if you don't really care about the details. It showed deterioration on some edges and rust spots in a year or two.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) T-Top GT RestoMod:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...other-79-Coupe!

  3. #28
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    So I stopped into Atlantic Auto Body today to go over the job and made an appointment to bring the car in on Monday.

    Price settled on $4400. Includes straitening the fenders, doors, repair and straitening front and rear bumper covers. Adjusting hood position. Removing all trim, door handles, door locks, removing lights and light covers, and painting 2 tone black and white.

    I'm gonna order 2 sets of door panel trim to redo the molding. He suggested I get new A pillars and outer door belt moldings that go along the edge of the widow dew wipe trim.

    LMR doesn't offer those items for an 84. I saw some used A pillars on ebay but no hits on the outer door belt molding for an 84.

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Yeah, the A-pillar trim and the outer door trim is not repro'd for our cars. I see the A-pillar trim on eBay all the time. I don't know about the outer door trim.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible
    1984 Mustang Turbo GT Convertible

  5. #30
    FEP Senior Member qikgts's Avatar
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    Is this what you're looking for?

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-20544PR/197...air-Black-Trim

    They also have a inner and outer kit.

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-20544-K/mus...strip-kit-8186

    EDIT: Just realized it said the outer needs to be trimmed for verts.
    Last edited by qikgts; 06-04-2017 at 12:00 AM.
    '85 GT

    The other one... 2005 Lincoln LS 3.9L V8

  6. #31
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    Is this what you're looking for?

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-20544PR/197...air-Black-Trim

    They also have a inner and outer kit.

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-20544-K/mus...strip-kit-8186

    EDIT: Just realized it said the outer needs to be trimmed for verts.

    Those are the dew wipe sets and they do have to be trimmed for verts. I never did get my driver side to fit right. I'm hoping the body shop will have better luck with it.

    But that's not the part Im looking for. This is it. See the thin trim that's separating from the door just under the edge of the driver window? Its held on with double sided tape. 87-92 the molding is much better quality and it has retainers.

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  7. #32
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    The Outer door molding is not supposed to be held on my double sided tape. It uses about 5-6 retainers coupled with barrel nuts, which hold it on very securely. If your molding is in good shape, you can buy a new set of clips and barrel nuts.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible
    1984 Mustang Turbo GT Convertible

  8. #33
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
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    For the outer dew wipes, the aftermarket stuff is junk as it's painted metal, while the factory units are aluminum. When I ordered mine they came damaged and the supplier sent another set. I didn't know at the time, but once I looked at it to install I realized the rubber pieces can be removed, and the new units can be installed on the factory trim...which is what I did. For the vert only top of the door flat trim, it is not offered aftermarket and my passenger side was crimped. I was able to locate another one and utilized it. Genini1999 is correct relative to the plastic clips and nuts. I could not find the nuts as they were not offered then, so I bought rubber grommets like one finds in the firewall, and inserted those into the holes at the top of the doors for the clips to secure down into. I liked doing it this way because it provides a better seal to keep water out of the inside of the door. This was done 5-6 years ago and there have been no issues with it thus far.

    When the windshield trim is removed you will probably find the foam wind barrier to be deteriorated...in addition the vert only seal that runs around the outside perimeter. I had only one small rust spot on the whole car and it was behind the drivers side a-pilar trim/seal. Nothing major, but he ground it down and welded it back up prior to prime and paint. I did not put the foam or rubber seal back, but rather bought some caulk tape and installed that under and around the 3 sides of the windshield trim for an air tight seal. The top trim piece will have to be built up a bit with several layers. I also utilized that same tape around the perimeter of the vert top boot well trim. My car does not get driven if there is even a chance of rain and only gets sponge baths but it should be around for another 25 years which is what my goal was in going through the car top to bottom back then.
    Last edited by bwguardian; 06-04-2017 at 01:34 PM.
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

    HAVE
    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride

  9. #34
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gemini1999 View Post
    The Outer door molding is not supposed to be held on my double sided tape. It uses about 5-6 retainers coupled with barrel nuts, which hold it on very securely. If your molding is in good shape, you can buy a new set of clips and barrel nuts.
    I have both door panels off my car right now since I have been messing with the window adjustments. As I said before, mine are cheap moldings held on with double sided tape. I double checked today and there is no clips or retainers holding them in place. There never was. my moldings are original to the car. Its not as though the originals were pulled by someone and replaced with junk. There are no clips and they never were on my doors. Look at the pic I posted. You can see it separating from the door.

  10. #35
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Here are some NOS outer door moldings along with the clips and nuts I told you about:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NOS-1979...lYqP-R&vxp=mtr

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NOS-1979...3D302317154839
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible
    1984 Mustang Turbo GT Convertible

  11. #36
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
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    If the trim is held on with double sided tape, I am wondering if the holes on the tops of the doors are there to accept the clips and barrel nuts...
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

    HAVE
    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride

  12. #37
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwguardian View Post
    If the trim is held on with double sided tape, I am wondering if the holes on the tops of the doors are there to accept the clips and barrel nuts...
    That's my thought as well.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible
    1984 Mustang Turbo GT Convertible

  13. #38
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    I have both door panels off my car right now since I have been messing with the window adjustments. As I said before, mine are cheap moldings held on with double sided tape. I double checked today and there is no clips or retainers holding them in place. There never was. my moldings are original to the car. Its not as though the originals were pulled by someone and replaced with junk. There are no clips and they never were on my doors. Look at the pic I posted. You can see it separating from the door.
    As others have stated and linked to the parts needed, your door top trim moldings were originally held on by plastic clips that slid into the channel on the underside of the trim. Those snap into plastic grommets that are inserted into the holes on the top of the doors. This is how the factory installed them originally. Several years ago the NOS clips and grommets went obsolete from Ford and at that point your choices for installing the trim were limited to say the least. I would beat that is why yours has double sided tape on the trim now.

    The clips and grommets are available aftermarket at this time. I will tell you from experience they are better than nothing, but they are not a great fit to be honest. You will have to trim down the edges on a couple of the clips to fit them up front near the mirrors. Also the grommets don't have the same snug fit the OEM pieces did. I don't recall the part number off my head, but I ended up using a different grommet insert that worked out much better on my PC. Still not OEM quality, but much better than nothing. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  14. #39
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwguardian View Post
    If the trim is held on with double sided tape, I am wondering if the holes on the tops of the doors are there to accept the clips and barrel nuts...
    Me too. I told the body shop to call me when they pull the belt molding off. I want to see how they were affixed because I cant see any clips looking inside the door with the panel off.

  15. #40
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Here's the mounting hardware kit. You need to buy one for each side:

    https://lmr.com/item/PE-1262/mustang...iner-kit-79-82
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible
    1984 Mustang Turbo GT Convertible

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