Close



Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 34 of 34
  1. #26
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Easiest way to start "fresh" on a 24lb equipped engine is to get a 70MM Cobra MAF (not some piece of crap aftermarket or "recalibrated" MAF but an honest OE style 70 MM MAF. Next go to the Mcparts store and get a reman 1993 Cobra ECU.

    put these in as it eliminates a ton of variables. I've seen several post similar problems with this curing it.

    You can always go to a tuner board and go crazy again after you have a verified properly functioning non-calibrated MAF working with your injectors and a stock tune.

    Speakibg of injectors, where did they come from? Might be worthwhile to have them cleaned and flow tested/tuned.

    If you pick up a Moats Quarterhorse and Binary Editor along with the data logger software you will have a ton of flexibility down the road too.
    Last edited by erratic50; 05-29-2017 at 12:59 PM.

  2. #27

    Default

    Thanks fellas. This is where I feel pretty foolish. I spent $1,000 on getting the car tuned and I took it home. The MAF is a calibrated version and the chip was programmed for it. I can try and find another MAF and pray the guy will work with it. Very very unimpressed with the fellow at this point. I spoke with him last about a month and a half ago and told him the car was doing this and it left my wife and I stranded at night. Never heard from him again.

  3. #28
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    Don't fell foolish or call yerself a dimwitt.


    So your car breaks down. That's a std modern era Electronics, Electrics issue, easliy fixed.


    You've told us what has been done to make it a 293 rwhp, 324 to 325 rw lb-ft barn stormer.


    You got the guy to do it,
    you got the dyno run to tune it for power,
    you got the numbers from the result of six dyno runs.

    Then you made tracks and persued your life.....

    Its a standard techie issue to check the basic pinouts...there's only 60 pins, and your only risk is not knowing what goes to what port. EECIV is a super easy to follow system within its standard Ford 5.0 Box codes. The 86 to pre OBDII EECIV's are the devil you know, not some hack system that Ford wanted to drop off a cliff.


    Like my Impco TSB's say, the EECIV's are very suseptable to small voltage changes due to multiple earths....its a Ford thing that covers everything from fuel pumps to injection systems, and its easily solved by pulling codes via a Breakout box. Others have said "don't trust the calibration, its most likely the new tune" well, maybee, but


    1. the first check is just making sure the new chip adaptor isn't earthing,

    2. that the four capacitors aren't earthing inside,

    3. then go right back to breakout or "breadboarding" the wiring.

    All wiring has to cut muster, otherwise your just wasting money.



    That will get you running codes.

    The wiring can be done any way on Fords, with any number of issues.


    If you could get code reader working, then Haystack's method will always give you some info, but the ECM might have some lockouts in the program.


    IMHO, if you were just to realtime Code read it while it was shorting, you'd get the problem right off.

    Modern or in service Fuel pumps and fuel lines can present the same problems, its just a wiring quality thing, and Fords at birth wiring wasn't wonderfull.

    Remember, an EECIV won't fall flat on its face unless there is wrong data by wrong voltages via the sensors, or a fuel problem.


    Sometimes, and invalid ECU chip comand might be the problem, but its hard to goof a GUFB (i.e. A9L) code if the MAF sensor is part of it.

    If there is a defective region due to wiring or the way it was programmed, it will show up in DTC codes.




    This V



    Quote Originally Posted by danco86 View Post
    I wouldn't mess too much with it until you get your tune. I will tell you of my personal experience with my build.
    86 GT, rebuilt stock bottom end, balanced, AFR heads, 1.6's, rollerrockers, cobra upper & lower, 24# injectors, A9L MAF conversion with pro-m 65mm, accufab 70mm TB, stock cam custom ground, 190 lph pump, u/d pullies,BBK shorties etc.
    I ran the car for about 1000 miles without a tune, & with the stock MAF and 19# injectors.
    The car ran incredibly rich, stalled on deceleration, and on startup. I messed with everything to get it to run right. Base idle, vacuum, iac, the whole checklist. What it comes down to, is the A9L couldn't handle the changes. A lot of guys seem to get away with it, but not me. I finally booked it in for a dyno tune. The shop was amazed when they did their pee dyno inspection and found no issues from my installations, to fix beforehand. However, in the short time I had driven the car, the A/F ratio was so far out, that I had low compression on one cylinder just due to my valves being so carboned up that on wasn't closing all the way. So, the tuner changed the calibration on the MAF to our geographical area, and burnt a chip for my A9L after a few dyno runs. Now my car has run absolutely flawlessly. So, my advice is to make sure you have no vacuum leaks and that everything is installed correctly so you can get straight onto the dyno, and get your tune done. It'll be so worth it!

    A couple side q's: Did you do the MAF conversion yourself? If so, did you add the extra wires for the vss and fuel pump circuit to the ecu?
    & are you running the stock alternator?

    Finally, your car looks super sweet! I put down 290 rwhp with my build, so I'm sure you will get the extra hp to make your numbers with your cam.


    I use the 1.264 correction factor if the normal SAE net altitude and air temp corection is uses.

    I get net installed figures of
    370 hp at 5340 rpm (293.0 rwhp corrected)
    410 lb-ft at 4400 rpm (324.0 rwlb-ft corrected)

    306.14 cubic inches, 1.34 lb-ft per cube is excellent, and what a well matched engine can slug out. The stock EECIV MAF computer can be configured to ensure none of the mid range is strangled by the torque reduction algotihim by spark timing reduction.


    Enjoy the rest of the tune up. All eeek Fours are cool, and well set up A9L's are sensationally good systems.

  4. #29
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    731

    Default

    I know I already asked you this in another one of your threads, but you didn't answer, so how did you do your MAF conversion? Did you add the vss wires and fuel pump wire inputs to your a9l?
    Dan

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-GT-restomod


    1986 Mustang GT Cobra
    Lotsa stuff, lotsa work. Check my thread above.

    Daily drivers
    2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke crew 4X4
    2012 F-150 Ecoboost Screw FX4

  5. #30
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    731

    Default

    Ha! I see xcstasy has posted the post I was referring to as I made my last post.
    Lol!
    Dan

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-GT-restomod


    1986 Mustang GT Cobra
    Lotsa stuff, lotsa work. Check my thread above.

    Daily drivers
    2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke crew 4X4
    2012 F-150 Ecoboost Screw FX4

  6. #31
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    On some versions, the VSS kicked the idle up via a computer algorithim...if its not present, it falls flat on its face. Right at above 6 mph or 9.7 km/h, the Variable Reluctor (VR) sensor starts sending a signal.









    You can use the stock VR speed sensor in the speedo to do the same thing. I think some EECIV 5.0 Lincolns used that system in addition to the Spout.

    If you don't have one on your transmission, you can rig one up easily like I did...this reads right down to zero mph practically

    http://vid1215.photobucket.com/album...6/MVI_7400.mp4

  7. #32

    Default

    I managed to find a reputable mechanic with a breakout box. I've got an appointment next week. Luckily it's across the street from where my car decided to fill its pants. The guy who owns the property where I'm parked said he's good with it being there until my appointment. Things are looking up!

  8. #33
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    731

    Default

    Right on.
    I hope you find the issue.
    Keep us posted!
    Dan

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-GT-restomod


    1986 Mustang GT Cobra
    Lotsa stuff, lotsa work. Check my thread above.

    Daily drivers
    2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke crew 4X4
    2012 F-150 Ecoboost Screw FX4

  9. #34
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Every time ive been unable to pull codes, the eec ground was bad. Should have a low resistance to ground on pins 20 40 and 60 reguardless of year or wiring.

    My buddy's car died, we pulled the computer out and started tracing out pins. Turns out he had a high resistance to ground on the body ground by the negative cable. When checking tps after, it was reading 12v's.

    Need to figure out why you can't get codes, and go from there.

    Haystack and I are on the same page. It might be pinouts as per post #21 05-28-2017, 09:59 AM .

    If it won't poll codes, then Breakout Boxing it will show the variations from the stock 1986 or 1993 voltage ranges. Normally, the technician then decides what has to be changed.


    Will you destroy the modified ECM running codes? Probably not if you use the breakout box first. It depends. The risk on a car that doesn't run in certain situations, well its a key requirment to sorting through.

    Commonly, people go crossed eyed looking at post after post of SD to MAF diagrams....but here it is again from another internet smash and grab...TMoss, 91-93 A9L

    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng_Diagram.gif

    The earlier 86 Speed Density HO 5.0 has Pin 30 apearing to travel thru the 02 harness. The 5 speed and AOD wire setups are effectively the same, just that are wired differently via a special cut out wire. They both have that looped wire 02 harness on the later 88 and later Mustangs.

    Pinouts for '88 Speed Density. Notice differences for Mustang and auto/manual.


    That will, um, pin point the problem. Once you get that sorted, your in.

    My Ford trained teacher at the Otago Central Electric Power Board said...always trouble shoot using the Break out box.

    The fuel pump might be okay....the LMR hanger hopefully helps avoid this problem with Ford fuel tank and replacement higher volume EFI pumps.


    Care of Mitch

    Quote Originally Posted by black88coupe View Post
    Something to think about when running a big pump with the stock hanger and fuel lines.
    https://youtu.be/Ium8jf4Jm04

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •