Starting a 5.0 That Hasn't Ran for 15 Years?

[sowaxeman]

Curious what everyone's steps are when firing a motor that has sat for 10+ years. When I resurrected my '83 GT several years ago, I didn't take any precautions and just went at it after cleaning out all the fuel system. She fired right up and ran great. I don't want to take that risk with my '92 LX, so curious to hear opinions. This is my thought process:

*Drain tank and inspect for any rust/corrosion....replace if necessary. Clean sending unit and possibly replace if it looks bad.
*Clean fuel pump and possibly replace.
*Disconnect fuel lines at tank and fuel rails and blow out lines.
*Remove rails and injectors to inspect/lube o-rings
*Oil change with full synthetic
*Remove plugs and inspect/replace if corroded
*Leave plugs out and oil cylinders.....this is were I don't know what to do. Fogging oil, regular oil, how much? Or just leave it be?
*Unplug coil and crank over the engine to get all cylinders moving and lubricated
*Put it all back together and let'er rip.

Anything I am missing or other steps you recommend? The car only had 10k miles when parked so I suspect everything will be fine, I just want to be more cautious with this one then I did on the '83 GT.

[83GTJIM]

When we did this for our Red/Red 83 GT that had been sitting for 10 years we pulled the distributor and ran the oil pump (counter clockwise) to build oil pressure prior to starting.

[erratic50]

IF it's an automatic, start with a new filter and fresh ATF. For manuals, new lube. Trenec recommends Dextron ATF in the WCT5 with no teflon additives. Teflon screws up the synchros on the WCT5 - ask me why I know....arg. (Or try it .... then rebuild your T5 too...)

I would use something like marvel down the plug holes to make certain the rings are free.

When I refired my car after having left sit several years, it got all new belts, hoses, and got back flushed then filled with fresh coolant. (New tires too!)

similar process on fuel tank and lines and injectors, etc

Next I drained the oil and put in put in a very clear high detergent conventional oil. I used the lightest weight mobile conventional I could get and a brand new filter. I primed the oil pump then reinstalled the dizzy but left the ignition disconnected.

i disconnected the wires on the inertia switch to kill the fuel pump then cranked it 10 seconds at a shot until I was most of the way dead on an 1100 CCA battery when cranking with no spark plugs.

Next I drained the oil and looked for signs of excessive rust in the oil as that would be a non-starter. Deep Brownish reddish rust colored oil means time for a rebuild. Rings, rods, mains, cam, lifters, timing set, gaskets, oil pump, pickup, etc. cheaper than a blown motor....

I filled it with Mobile 10W40 conventional and put on a big filter. Can't remember the wicks # - Fram is ph8a. Cross reference that but don't buy a Fram as you need the best filter surface area.

I installed 100lb pull magnets on the front and rear oil sumps then put in new plugs, hooked up the fuel pump, and fired the motor

I changed the oil the first time at 50 miles - piling the magnets and looking for metal shavings - like the old timers say to do when breaking in a fresh engine. Next change was at 500. If all good, 1000. Then next at 4000. Then think about conventional if you want to.

ive done this a few times over the years. Ran into one car where the antifreeze lost its mojo and the block and head rusted - lost head gaskets on that one and saw metal in the oil too. had to rebuild it.

[qikgts]

Curious what everyone's steps are when firing a motor that has sat for 10+ years. When I resurrected my '83 GT several years ago, I didn't take any precautions and just went at it after cleaning out all the fuel system. She fired right up and ran great. I don't want to take that risk with my '92 LX, so curious to hear opinions. This is my thought process:

*Drain tank and inspect for any rust/corrosion....replace if necessary. Clean sending unit and possibly replace if it looks bad.
*Clean fuel pump and possibly replace.
*Disconnect fuel lines at tank and fuel rails and blow out lines.
*Remove rails and injectors to inspect/lube o-rings
*Oil change with full synthetic
*Remove plugs and inspect/replace if corroded
*Leave plugs out and oil cylinders.....this is were I don't know what to do. Fogging oil, regular oil, how much? Or just leave it be?
*Unplug coil and crank over the engine to get all cylinders moving and lubricated
*Put it all back together and let'er rip.

Anything I am missing or other steps you recommend? The car only had 10k miles when parked so I suspect everything will be fine, I just want to be more cautious with this one then I did on the '83 GT.

Good list.

I'll just add that regarding the injectors, the o-rings won't likely be the potential issue you'll see. Instead, they get gummed up from the fuel sitting inside them and going bad. These days reman'd injectors can be had for less than $100.00 shipped for a set of 8 on Ebay. If I was in your shoes I'd just buy and install them without thinking about it. BTW, the 4 hole type are just fine and maybe even an upgrade. The link below is exactly what I bought for my '90 last year, and the same seller too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-1988-19...IAAOSwAuNW3Crw

[Haystack]

I wouldnt botherbwith synthetic for the first run, just throw regular dyno in there and see how it goes.

[bwguardian]

^^^...This!

[ashley roachclip]

You guys do realize , this is a machine , not your first date lol.
You can do all this long winded proceedure, spend all that time and money, and still end up with a dud.

Check that it has oil , and is full .
Check it turns over by a 15/16 socket and bar , easiest from undernieth .
All plug wires are connected in their proper order .
Fuel supply ,
Fully charged battery .

Crank it up .
If it runs , spend the time and effort , if not , no big loss .

Yes i have been doing this for 50 years .
It is a machine , not a woman .
Good luck

[83v6Stock]

I recently bought a Stanley Rechargeit, and reconditioned an old battery. You may be able to save an old battery with it. I'll post a separate thread.

[sowaxeman]

You guys do realize , this is a machine , not your first date lol.
You can do all this long winded proceedure, spend all that time and money, and still end up with a dud.

Check that it has oil , and is full .
Check it turns over by a 15/16 socket and bar , easiest from undernieth .
All plug wires are connected in their proper order .
Fuel supply ,
Fully charged battery .

Crank it up .
If it runs , spend the time and effort , if not , no big loss .

Yes i have been doing this for 50 years .
It is a machine , not a woman .
Good luck

Too funny! Thanks I am half tempted (once fuel system is cleaned out) to just fire it up....as I'm sure it will be fine. But I wanted to hear opinions and decide what other precautions I might take. I cranked the engine over with a ratchet before I bought the car, so I know it is not seized up.

[FoxFords&FFR's]

I am with Ashley R, pump out the fuel tank by removing the inlet to the fuel filter and powering up the fuel pump. Check the oil to be sure its full, you can pull the coil wire and turn it over until you see pressure on the gauge and then give it a go with fresh gas and fuel filter. I would check in the airbox to make sure nobody built a nest in there, you dont want to suck mouse carcasses through the motor. It will probably take some time before the rockers quiet down but a couple heat cycles they should be good. We had one of these a few years back, 88 LX sat from 1992 til 2012. Followed the above procedures and it runs like a clock. Valve springs are shot but thats next on the list. Going to do them in the car. I would do a couple quick oil changes maybe 1000 miles or see how it looks after 1000 and change as deemed necessary. Good Luck with the fireup, it shouldnt be a problem.

Mike

[erratic50]

I have had a cheap oil filter get funny being soaked for a long time. If they go to hell they put paper fibers throughout the motor. A new filter before firing it is very cheap middle ground.

Do what you're going to do. Good luck!

[Walking-Tall]

"I'm sure it will be fine", are famous last words, lol... that I and many have stated

Good old reliable ATF in the cylinders for a while (I would say, and have witnessed trouble-free miracles, with a week's worth of ATF soakin' with seized engines) damn near guarantees no mishaps with piston rings and piston ring lands. When I neglected to do so one time with such a scenario of "turns over fine... should be fine", with a car that sat probably 10 or more years, the 200-6 in it ran pretty well, but would oil-foul a plug every ~1000 miles until I ended up having to take it apart and rebuild it. I don't like doin' stuff that wouldn't have needed doin', lol, so I've sworn off of assuming! Good luck with it.

[sowaxeman]

I definitely plan to change oil & filter before anything. As for the fuel filter so I can pump out the tank....where is that located on these cars? I'm a Carb guy so wrenching on an EFI will be new for me

[Jeremy86coupe]

Great find Jason! The fuel filter is located forward of the fuel tank bolted to the underside just above the rear axle inboard of the right tailpipe where it goes over the rear axle. It's easy to change, just make sure you have some spare plastic clips, they break easy. If you buy a Motorcraft filter they normally come with new ones. I would agree with your cautious steps and do alot of prep before starting this car. Some people may disagree and that's ok, but it's your car so make sure you are comfortable with everything first. I would do as much as I could to make sure you don't introduce bad fuel, bad oil, bad brake fluid into the rest of the car. I personally would get rid of all of the old fluids before I even thought about starting that car, but I'm a little bit particular I guess. Good luck with it man and maybe it should make it's way to Foxtoberfest this year! That would be really cool!

[84StangSVT]

I'm with Mike, James and Jeremy in the fact changing all the fluids and filters, before starting, is the best and cheapest insurance. A lot of it is hygroscopic and who wants to run the risk of running old water filled fluid through things? Even with a fairly new used car, I always change the fluids first thing as you never know what kind of person the PO was.

Good luck with the awesome new toy.

[83v6Stock]

Because I found black slime in my fuel tank, after 83 Mustang sat for 15 years. You can remove the rubber hose coming from the fuel tank forward at the metal fuel line. Pump out gas there first before slime invades other systems. Remove right rear wheel for easy access in wheel well area. I used a cheap pump from Harbor Freight Tools. The rubber hose fit perfectly into the pump inlet. If the gas is not close to clear (mine was black) you may need to clean or replace the gas tank.

Replace the rubber gas lines. I had to drop the gas tank to expose the fuel tank hose clip. Just remove 3 bolts. 2 bolts hold the fuel tank straps, 1 bolt holds the filler neck round bracket. The forward rubber line is covered by a metal cover around the fuel pump.

YMMV.

[sowaxeman]

Great find Jason! The fuel filter is located forward of the fuel tank bolted to the underside just above the rear axle inboard of the right tailpipe where it goes over the rear axle. It's easy to change, just make sure you have some spare plastic clips, they break easy. If you buy a Motorcraft filter they normally come with new ones. I would agree with your cautious steps and do alot of prep before starting this car. Some people may disagree and that's ok, but it's your car so make sure you are comfortable with everything first. I would do as much as I could to make sure you don't introduce bad fuel, bad oil, bad brake fluid into the rest of the car. I personally would get rid of all of the old fluids before I even thought about starting that car, but I'm a little bit particular I guess. Good luck with it man and maybe it should make it's way to Foxtoberfest this year! That would be really cool!

I wish, but doubt I get time to do much with it until later this summer/fall. Mostly will be a winter project for me. I am planning to bring my '82 GT to Foxtoberfest as of now....gotta represent the 4-eyes again

[Jeremy86coupe]

I wish, but doubt I get time to do much with it until later this summer/fall. Mostly will be a winter project for me. I am planning to bring my '82 GT to Foxtoberfest as of now....gotta represent the 4-eyes again

You know I'm down with that! I can't wait to see it.

[FoxFords&FFR's]

Any progress on the fireup? How does it sound?

Mike

[homer302]

Didn't read all the responses so may be a re-do. Mine sat from 1999-2012. It was a 2.3 but don't think that matters. I turned it some with a breaker bar after verifying it had oil in it. Never turned the ignition on until I replaced the fuel tank, both fuel pumps and filter. pulled the plugs and shot some penetrant down in there and put the old plugs back. I didn't even know if it ran and I did read your story about this car but perhaps someone actually parked it for other reasons? I didn't know if mine would even run obviously so not wasting money. I put regular NAPA oil in it and pulled the coil wire and turned it over with the starter a few times over 2 days without trying to start it. Then put the coil wire back and crossed my fingers. Turned out fine. Still doesn't smoke or use oil. Good Luck.

[sowaxeman]

Any progress on the fireup? How does it sound?

Mike

Oh heck no...it will be later this summer or fall before I get a chance to mess with it. I just got it out of the trailer this weekend and in the garage. I got the interior detailed out (didn't take much effort) and started working on the discolored & sticky rubber side moldings. A little effort with WD-40 and they turned out like new!

[sowaxeman]

Didn't read all the responses so may be a re-do. Mine sat from 1999-2012. It was a 2.3 but don't think that matters. I turned it some with a breaker bar after verifying it had oil in it. Never turned the ignition on until I replaced the fuel tank, both fuel pumps and filter. pulled the plugs and shot some penetrant down in there and put the old plugs back. I didn't even know if it ran and I did read your story about this car but perhaps someone actually parked it for other reasons? I didn't know if mine would even run obviously so not wasting money. I put regular NAPA oil in it and pulled the coil wire and turned it over with the starter a few times over 2 days without trying to start it. Then put the coil wire back and crossed my fingers. Turned out fine. Still doesn't smoke or use oil. Good Luck.

This car was parked with only 10k miles...the guy was a truck driver and had very little time to enjoy it on the weekends. His entire life's contents resided in this storage facility since 2003. I doubt there is any other factor as to why it was parked. This car is just too MINT for me to believe it was abused or anything else.