Duraspark distributor info needed.

[Littlecharlot]

I was hoping to pull the distributor out of my '84 302 and install an older Duraspark distributor with the GM HEI module conversion. Was hoping that someone might know what year Duraspark distributor I ought to pick up to successfully do this.

I've heard that the distributor should be the Duraspark II but haven't found one yet, found loads of plain old Durasparks for sale though, rebuilt and good used.

Would anyone know what distributor would work best?

Thanks—

[grtskydog]

If your 84 is carb'd (stock ignition), you should have a Duraspark II system already...distributor and all.


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[xctasy]

LC's is CFI, so its TFI.

TFI existed to control spark timing and idle without the expense of the Duraspark III systems contol box and crank sensor like the 80 to 83 CFi 5.0 had (and a few CA 84/85 Tbirds.)

Duraspark I and II are incompatiable with CFi as Ford imedded fuel and ignition together in EECIII and EECIV..

..., but you can convert a CFi back to a Duraspark 2 if you cant follow the stock CFi service protocols.LC is using a nutters bypass, where you use the stock CFi low pressure tank pump, bleed back the return fuel before a new 500 cfm 4412 Holley, and then its just a swap to the M code 4bbl distribtor. Any Duraspark Ì or II works if you rewire the control unit to suit an HEI four pin module. You then have to set up the power valve,jetting and auto choke to suit your needs.

Personally, bailing on an EEK!!! or !V Four CFi should be a last resort.....there is a network of posts showing how good a CFi can run if you follow the propane leak test, do some continuity tests, and then run codes.


Including the curliest one...

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...great-at-speed

IT PASSED!!!!!!!

The numbers were flat out awesome....flew right through the dyno smog test. 37 HC 0.01% CO 277 NoX

Then while idling....it died. Had not died in three days, just the hiccup and lowering idle. While I was there talked to a old school ford mechanic who thought it could be fuel pressure regulator maybe malfuctioning.

So half the saga is done.......

Of course, Smkn600ctd like all expsensed out old car owners was thinkin' "its just easier to scrap it and give up" , but the above post is typical of the results you get when you follow the rules.

Same account from NAVYCAT when he had to smog his White Black Magic Capri....effectively got some old junk yard parts, popped it on his 3.3 I6, and it passed smog.



There is about 12 years of data from people who have conquered the idiosyncrasies of the speed density EECIII and EECIV CFi.

The problem wasn't that its brain dead and and a Bit Cee Hiach, but because the guy that championed the SD CFi was a freekin' rocket scientist, and you have to be smart to understand the flags and protocols of the pre Port Injection 2 injector CFi.


Only Ford would put a crank sensor on a EEC III CFi vehicle....



But its your car, and the ancient 7448,4412 and other 2bbl Holleys can give excellent results.

[Lowetlx]

Just get one for an 84 manual trans. It will be a durasprk with the correct gear. You can order a new one or reman from local auto parts store or rockrockauto.com

[Littlecharlot]

Thanks !

I'll look on Ebay for the distributor from an '84 manual trans engine. Are there any other years that would work? Seems like an '84 carb engine distributor might be a bit rare used.

Should have mentioned that I'm dumping the CFI and putting a Holley two barrel in it's place, I thought that the Duraspark would make a good replacement for the stock distributor. I have an early points-style that I could use in a pinch, but kinda thought that the Duraspark with the GM HEI conversion would be the best way to go.

I figured that to be on the safe side, I'd use the gear from the original distributor. I believe that it's the cast iron one, compatible with the original flat tappet cam but I'm not at all sure. Just repeating what I've read.

[Lowetlx]

I would advise against using an 84 distributer. There are small plastic bushings in the mechanical advance that fall apart over time. The bushings cannot be purchased anywhere. Your best bet is to get a new or reman for $50. order it for a 84 manual. The 85 manual has the steel gear you want to avoid. I found out the hard way that it's not worth using when attempting to swap a steel gear onto my 84 distributer.

[Littlecharlot]

Thanks again!

I didn't know that the remanufactured Durasparks were going for so little money. Also didn't know that they came with the drive gear installed, I was planning on using the drive gear from my original distributor just to make sure that I did't mess up.

[erratic50]

GM HEIs also have their bad behaviors too. For one some tend to want to fall on their face when you try to shoot past 5000 RPM or so unless you've bought the right parts to put in it. Also advance curves can be less than ideal and need different weights, etc.

Also when to change dizzy setup like this you have to pay attention to spark energy vs gap vs plug temp.

Good luck achieving what you want.

[Walking-Tall]

You should be in good shape using any one of the many, MANY "plain old" 302 DuraSpark II distributors manufactured from the mid-'70's to the mid-'80's, all of which come with a cast iron gear for a flat tappet camshaft. It took me some time and hunting to find one for my 3.8L V6, that were only made for couple years. A ready-made bonus about doing what you want to do is that the car's TFI coil and it's wiring is already configured for the necessary non-resistance 12V that the HEI module operates with, unlike having to add voltage resistance to it if installing a DuraSpark II module.


For reference, here's a wiring diagram I created for the ignition in my '86 converted from EEC-IV/TFI to DuraSpark II & HEI module:




I attached (clean metal and the goop they give you with it) the HEI module in the cool breeze on the strut tower near the coil.




It's been working good for many miles now.

[mrriggs]

Couple tips for using the HEI module. Get a genuine AC Delco module #D1906 (GM #10482820). Most of the problems I hear about are due to guys using McPart Store replacements.

For the dwell circuit in the HEI module to work correctly, you need to use a coil with less than 1 Ohm primary resistance [the TFI coil is perfect]. The HEI module has a current limiter built in that will hold the primary at about 4.5 amps. If you hook the HEI module to your stock Duraspark coil and ballast resistor then the primary current will be too low to trigger the current limiter in the HEI module. The HEI constantly pulls up the bias voltage on the pickup coil to increase dwell. When the current limiter kicks in it will bleed down the bias voltage to reduce the dwell. When everything is working correctly, the pull-up and bleed down cancel out when the dwell is set to the ideal time. If the current limiter isn't kicking in then the dwell will only be increased and that is when you get all the oddball misfire troubles.

[Littlecharlot]

Thanks for the advice all !

I still have the original coil that came in the Mustang and went with the TFI set-up. I was going to use a big 'ol yellow Mallory coil, but now I'm not sure. Maybe best not to mess about and just go with what seems to be best.

All of this is new to me and sound like "magic," used to the stupid simplicity of Chevy small blocks and points-style distributors. Was looking for a change from my usual and MAN did I ever get one ! Multiple timing cover configurations, reverse rotation water pumps, fragile AOD transmissions with TV linkage, Thin Film Ignitions ( ? ! ? ! ? !) and all of the rest. A genuine learning curve that I wasn't prepared for, but that tight little small block Ford engine is just SO right . . . and it was used in the Sprint, Mustang, Cobra and Tiger, so there's that ! !

[FB71]

Nothing fragile about an AOD except the direct clutch input shaft. An aftermarket shaft, and a rebuild with quality parts, an AOD is plenty stout for street use. A few upgrades with stock 4R70W parts, a good valve body reprogram kit, and it's ready for strip duty.

[Littlecharlot]

"Nothing fragile about an AOD except the direct clutch input shaft."

I sincerely hope that you're right. All I hear if that the mid eighties AOD trans are too fragile to take any abuse. Lots of folks have mentioned that it'll turn to crap if the TV linkage is even slightly out of adjustment, can't be shifted by hand as this wears things out inside. Just leave it in OD and putter around.

I rather like running through the gears, even in an automatic, be nice if the AOD were taught enough to take some playing around, Possibly read up on it some more, so far you're the only one suggesting that it's up to the task. I sure hope that you're correct in this ! ! !

[FB71]

I've built enough of them! There are things to watch for; the cases and valve bodies prior to '86 aren't the best. The best cases are the E9s. Valve body; the newest one you can find. Replacing the Reverse clutch drum with a unit from a late 4R70W/75W will give you the mechanical diode intermediate one way clutch, instead of the roller clutch. But, that requires using a reverse sun gear shell from an AODE, but lets you also use the wider OD band from the 4R70W. They can be just about bullet-proof for under $1k, and very streetable. The biggest problem is the shift pattern; P/R/N/OD/D/1. There is no manual 2 position. To get manual 2, most folks do the AOD shuffle; start in man1, shift to D, then right back to man1. That gets you man2, but shock-loads the intermediate one-way, which WILL fail. The best option is the OD lockout mod, which changes the shift pattern to D/2/1, and you add a solenoid and button to get OD.

oh, and yes, TV adjustment is critical, but not difficult.

Check www.clickclickracing.com for more info, and look up the site owner SilverFox. He's THE AOD/AODE/4R70W expert.