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  1. #1

    Default What relay is this?

    Can u guys help me identify what relay this is for? It's in the kick panel with eec, there's also a bigger relay in 2nd pic but the gray one is oxidized on one side of the connector

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  2. #2
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    those don't appear to be relays, just connectors

  3. #3

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    What he said, those are connectors.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by gt pony View Post
    What he said, those are connectors.
    I'm not familiar with these electrical components lol, is the relay for the eec in the kick panel on an 86 gt? I'm chasing a hesitating issue when the car warms up, I replaced cap/rotor, plugs, wires, 02 sensors, fuel pump & filter, coolant sensors, tps sensor. Anything else I should look at? I'm losing it

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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by collinselectric5 View Post
    Anything else I should look at?

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    Ignition initial timing (10-14 degrees BTDC, idling with SPOUT removed), fuel pressure (39 psi, idling with fuel pressure regulator vacuum disconnected & plugged), TPS voltage (0.98v @ idle), and check for trouble codes.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Relay may be mounted up under the dash on the passenger side or it might be hanging right by the EEC.

    We had a bad grommet on the antenna wire and no drip loop. The relay was full of water! The EEC looked like it had been submerged for 15 years. Replaced it with a known good ECU that was pulled from another strong running 86. Personally I prefer the VM1 over any of the other speed density computer tunes Ford made because they run really hard. Notoriously hard on T5's though - so make sure you have upgraded it or ..... well .....you've been warned..... lol.

    Ultimately the problem we saw with occasionally cutting out and blowing fusible links was bad grounds.

    Flex cable on back of head to firewall was faulty. Fixed by running a lead from factory negative lead attachment point to K member.

    The 4 wire to one copper weld was ok but the plug that it was connected to was corroded and the spot where the EEC grounds, etc, attached to the fender was not making a solid connection.

    We replaced it by cutting off the single lead and slip connector with a single copper wire crush wrapped with stainless wire then soldered. We used a loop connector and a second nut on the negative lead to. connect this. Will eventually get a GM style top post cable designed for a secondary 8 gauge wire connection but the nut works perfect for now.

    Id also check the coil wire on both ends as I've burned off multiple on my car.

    Cap and rotor are both a cheap thing to check or replace.

    O2 sensor wiring can short at times and cause problems - inspect it.

    AC pigtail likes to find the header so check that too.

    A faulty capacitor on the EEC-IV ECU will make it run like **** after a few minutes if it starts at all.

    Double check your initial timing also. 10 degrees advance is stock. Many HO's like 13, some as much as 16 depending upon cam timing. Watch for signs of a lean condition. Also overheating or hard cranking as that means there is too much advance. sluggish performance is likely too little.

    Check your advance snub connector- if it's not getting g advance it will run like **** when you step on it. I had a distributor advance fail on me one time which did the same.

    Scan it for codes too.

    check back for more ideas.
    Last edited by erratic50; 07-16-2017 at 02:05 PM.

  7. #7

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    I didn't find a relay in the kick panel but found this relay next to my battery. Looks like the new one but only has 4 pins, the new relay I picked up has 5 pins but it still fits

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  8. #8

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    If you are just going to continue throwing money at the issue without testing anything, I would replace the TFI and distributor next. What the heck? Nothing to lose. At the end of the day, it's not really much money. Relays are usually either good or bad. They work or they don't. They don't "act up" at times.
    Good luck
    Last edited by homer302; 07-16-2017 at 05:08 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    One thing to keep in mind - sometimes new parts are bad.

    When you did your tuneup was it ok or already having problems??

    Work backwards or fully test parts until you get the problem narrowed down.

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