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  1. #26

    Default

    Thanks for the compliments guys, I do appreciate them.

    Still bunches more to show you.

  2. #27

    Default Floor Pans, Rot, Reinforcements, Other Stuff

    The next thing to cover will be the entire floor board......the top side first. This'll take a few posts.

    I hadn't really looked at the floor too much other than to replace the rear of the pans that were rotted to hell. That was relatively easy, I went on to other things. As this build went along, my anal tendencies seem to grow.

    What I intended to do was to seam seal where i had cut in the passenger foot section. That got me looking around my floor pan. I was going to change the interior to grey (it was red originally), so I thought I ought to go ahead and remove the rear seat belts. How did I miss this rot?Name:  IMG_0638.JPG
Views: 324
Size:  96.9 KBThat lead me to remove all of the factory sound/heat barrier from the whole floor board.

    Both rear seat belt retractor areas where rotted out. I had to fix it so I made a couple patch panels from the left over pieces of the floor pan.Name:  IMG_0588.JPG
Views: 324
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    I got those patches welded in and I thought since i'm in the back seat area and have the sound mat up, I might as well weld in a set of rear control arm reinforcementsName:  IMG_0589.JPG
Views: 324
Size:  106.7 KB

    I had to remove the factory seam sealer in the area of the two patch panels I put in. It stunk like old moldy crap. So I decided to remove all of the seam sealer from the interior. These were my tools used for doing this, the two on the right were the most importantName:  IMG_0594.JPG
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    So I'm stripping out the old seam sealer, I found this under the seam sealer in the driver's footwell areaName:  IMG_0590.JPG
Views: 319
Size:  150.4 KBI welded up those holes.

  3. #28

    Default More Floor Pan

    So I got all of the seam sealer out from the front to the back.Name:  IMG_0591.JPG
Views: 319
Size:  139.6 KBI had gone over the floor board thoroughly looking for any more rot. There were little spots by the rear wheel tubs and some surface rust in the spare tire area as well that I welded or treated to have it no more!I needed to coat all of this bare metal now. I've always liked POR15, so, off I went. I started by coating the front footwell areasName:  IMG_0592.JPG
Views: 316
Size:  149.0 KBThen after a good bath, the rest of itName:  IMG_0597.JPG
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    Attached Images Attached Images   

  4. #29

    Default Rear Wheel Tubs

    I don't know if you noticed in any of those previous pictures that the rear tubs look as if a BFH may have been used against them to widen the rear wheel well area. I also rolled the 1/4 lips just so a set of 275's would fit comfortably in there.

    They would after that. Of course that "modification" was done before I ever gave the interior a look. It's totally gutted now. I had a friend or two (mike1157) point out this would be the ideal time to mini-tub, because 275's are puny compared to 315's.

    I got to admit I didn't want to do the work involved, Mike started showing me pictures of how easy it would be especially since I have a hatchback.

    I was a teenager in the seventies and pro-street was a big thing back then. I was a HUGE Bob Glidden fan. So YES, YES I wanted bigger tires out back!

    I went with Mike's homegrown type of mini-tub simply because i wanted to keep the spare tire well for a spare tire (this will be a driver after all, and with my luck a spare is a good thing).

    First things first, look up in your rear wheel well area. The factory sprayed in a seam sealer that is mondo thick back there. How do you get it out? From an earlier picture, the other two tools are vitalName:  IMG_0594.JPG
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    A knotted wire wheel rips that crap out of there fast. If you want to do this, wear a mask. You WILL be a dust ball afterwards, it would be good for your lungs not to have all of that in them.Name:  IMG_0602.JPG
Views: 317
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    I decided to move my tubs inboard 2". I used a ruler and a paint marker to mark what i needed to cut. I removed the inner tubs first by cutting where they connect to the outer tub that connects to the quarter and along where they are welded to the floorName:  IMG_0608.JPG
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    Since I was going to move the inner tub inboard two inches I had one little problem. The rear shock tower would end up located right over the middle of the rear subframe. The shocks won't fit with the frame still there.....

    What to do? I've been involved with lowering a pick up or two and we would notch the frame for differential tube clearance. I decided to use this idea somewhat. I decided to notch into the frame a full inch. Now, how do I keep the integrity of the subframe with a five inch wide, one inch deep notch cut into it? You remake the frame a bit.

    At work we had recently (at the time) replaced a frame on a Tahoe. The old frame was scrap. I needed a strong steel to build the reinforcement for the notch I would cut out of the subframe. So I went out and cut out about four feet of the Tahoe frame with a cut off torch.

    I now had my mini tubbing kit. A 24"x12" piece of 16 gauge steel and the chunks of frame.Name:  IMG_0603.JPG
Views: 317
Size:  103.1 KB I made a mock up of what I would need and marked it out on the Tahoe frame and cut out the pieces for the frame notchName:  IMG_0392.JPG
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Size:  129.6 KB There you had it, my mini-tub, alls I had to do was to put it together!There is a not so small step I left out of this post that i will cover in the next, cleaning the frame of the spring perch, etc...

  5. #30

    Default

    Moving the inner tub in the two inches I desired meant that the frame rail needed to be cleared of all obstructions. Like the spring perch (I'm going to switch to coilovers for the rear), the bump stops, narrowing of the rear seat belt brackets (i'm going to keep my rear seat, grandkids will want to ride in grandpa's badass mustang, right), and in this instance required removal of the quad shocks (I will eventually use a torque arm).Name:  IMG_0607.JPG
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    Once the tub was cut out i had to shorten the shock tower brace in order to move the tub inboard.Name:  IMG_0609.JPG
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    I then trimmed the floor board inboard two inches following the line I made prior to removing the tubName:  IMG_0620.JPG
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    I cut out the notch area of the frame (and removed about a pound and a half of red oklahoma dirt)Name:  IMG_0621.JPG
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    Then I welded in my frame supports from the Tahoe frameName:  IMG_0623.JPG
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  6. #31

    Default

    Next I tacked in the inner tub in it's new place.Name:  IMG_0614.JPG
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    Then i shaped and tacked in the new strips to fill in the tubsName:  IMG_0615.JPG
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Size:  122.4 KBName:  IMG_0626.JPG
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    I welded the perimeter with overlapping welds around the shocks towers for extra strength. Then I POR15'd it again to provide corrosion protection on the inside and out side.Name:  IMG_0631.JPG
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  7. #32

    Default

    Then I seam sealed the interior and used a sprayable seam sealer for the outer tubsName:  IMG_0633.jpg
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Size:  99.6 KBName:  IMG_0635.jpg
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Size:  105.4 KBName:  IMG_0636.jpg
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Size:  94.6 KBName:  IMG_0641.jpg
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Size:  167.9 KBThe sprayable seam sealer is thicker than it looks.

    Bonus with the sprayable seam sealer, I know where that new car smell comes from now!

    So, what kind of room did this give me in the rear tubs? Here's a picture of a 285/35/19 tire shoved up in the well.Name:  IMG_0625.JPG
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    335's would scrub, 325's aren't made in enough wheel sizes, 315's it is then!

  8. #33

    Default

    Sweet...!

  9. #34

    Default The Body

    It's hard to get across how many hours were spent straightening this car, let's just say lots. The rocker panels are the things that make me smile, they're sooo very straight!

    After the body was stripped, dents were pulled and beaten back were they were originally. Better even, I remember these cars when they were new.

    After the bodywork had been done it was primered, guide coated, blocked with 180, the reprimered. Blocked with 320 this time and primered one more time. Final blocking was with 500 then 800 grit and a feather touch on varying shapes and sizes of blocks.Name:  IMG_0942.jpg
Views: 270
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    Then the seam sealer found along the drip rails of the hatch jamb area was replaced with flowable seam sealer.

    Then a crazy cleaning that took roughly an hour before I masked it to paint. Then wax and grease removed, a thorough tacking, and paint.
    Name:  IMG_1261.jpg
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Size:  118.6 KBName:  IMG_0394.JPG
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    Im so pleased with how it laid out. It really justified the craziness spent on the bodywork.

    Next will be the undercarriage.

  10. #35

    Default

    So damn good looking!

  11. #36
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    3R3 Red Mica, 3R3 Barcelona Red Mica, 3R3 Barcelona Red Pearl is a very special color. Well done.

    The color threatens to take any fillings out like a side show candy coated apple can...

    On my wifes RAV4.1, 3J8 Wine Red/ Prussian Red Pearl . Not quite the same, but it sure creates an almost flip flop candy apple color interplay in the light. Even on her quite powerfull JDM 170 HP Rav, its a color totally Wasted on any Toyota. On a Ford, perfect!

    2ksteeda's 85 351c is Lexus Matador Red Mica is 3R1, again, not qiute the same, but it creates a similar on fire ambience that just rocks....

    These colors are a heck of a lot sharper on hard adged Four Eyes than Tojo's.


    It'll pop like a vintage wine at a car show, but during the build up, its that color that turns every one on.


  12. #37

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    3R3 Red Mica, 3R3 Barcelona Red Mica, 3R3 Barcelona Red Pearl is a very special color. Well done.

    The color threatens to take any fillings out like a side show candy coated apple can...

    On my wifes RAV4.1, 3J8 Wine Red/ Prussian Red Pearl . Not quite the same, but it sure creates an almost flip flop candy apple color interplay in the light. Even on her quite powerfull JDM 170 HP Rav, its a color totally Wasted on any Toyota. On a Ford, perfect!

    2ksteeda's 85 351c is Lexus Matador Red Mica is 3R1, again, not qiute the same, but it creates a similar on fire ambience that just rocks....

    These colors are a heck of a lot sharper on hard adged Four Eyes than Tojo's.


    It'll pop like a vintage wine at a car show, but during the build up, its that color that turns every one on.

    Forgive me for being stupid earlier, my car is 3R1. I'm not sure why I put 3R3 other than I shot a Toyota at work a couple days prior that was 3R3 and I just spaced the code out. 3R3 is considerably lighter and more orange than 3R1. So, for you people thinking that sure looked dark for 3R3, you are right.

    That is a pretty red car you posted there. So that helps me know what mine will look like. Did he have a build thread? I would love to read through it.

    Found it. I chose this color because of various Lexus cars I've painted and thought it was so pretty. Guess I wasn't alone, huh? Lol, there are no new ideas.
    Last edited by Davedacarpainter; 05-06-2017 at 02:53 AM.

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    It is original. A case of two people having the having the right ideas at the same time I guess.

    Its a perfect color on a perfect base Dave. Your canvas justs turns it into a pure impressionist painting. I could dive into the computer screen when I see your work. A color 110% on the right ride, and sanctified!.


    Here's another.

    Quote Originally Posted by Box Top View Post

    Remember color prodiminant choice is Toyotas from Calty design...Its as American as. Its about time we took our territory back!

    I've been planning another Fox build since the year dot, but I'm using that other Toyota color hue.


    Its different with my car...it runs Explorer 16 x 8's and my wife opted out of Fords because she loved those two color sooo much.


    We discussed the nicests 17" rims on every red Mustang we could find, and that color just kept popping up everywhere during or discssions.

    I told her that I could fix her danged beloved Tojo...I'll have her paint and wheels on my Fox, she could have the Ford wheels. I've been planning a Kugel Komponents, style Focus 5.0/5.8 V8 swap.....first the wheels, then a proper FoMoCo engine....


    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Here are the 98 UR Explorer rims on my RAV4.





    Weight saving using the Ford rim on each wheel is 12 pounds per wheel, even though the Explorer rims are 16 x 8, and the G-spec Rav4 is 16 x 6.5 J. Toyota bolts fit without issue to the Explorer rim, and a 2.75" centre cap fit, the Ford cap can be made to fit. The RAV 4 automatic has a large alloy intrusion on the left hand side, so the Explorer rims help with inner gaurd clearance, and with 27 " tall in the 235/60 16's size I use, they are a neat fit.

    For the Mustang, I'm planning to use redrilled stud bolts as per common GM practice. Unlike these conversions to this stud bolted wheel,


    Spacers if not fitted from factory, can be black flagged as illegal down here, so I'm looking at redrilling the stock four stud Fox hub to 4.5",and that will allow me to fit transferrable Eurobien EB's or Explorer 16 x 8 JJ to the RAV4 or Mustang, total movement of 16 x 8 rims to any three cars I can use.

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member bkoons85gt's Avatar
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    My goodness, you are doing an amazing job on this car. I like the color combo, but I am partial. LOL

    Name:  Pony Stable 85.jpg
Views: 220
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    Last edited by wraithracing; 05-07-2017 at 09:17 AM. Reason: Fix Picture
    ~Bryan

    1985 Mustang GT w/ T-Tops, Original Paint, 160,XXX miles
    Mods: 600cfm Carb, Underdrive Pulleys, Subframe Connectors, 4pt G-Load Brace, MM Strut Tower brace, 8.8 rear w/ 3.55 gears & LCA's

    Pics from production of "The Saleen Book"
    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...&id=1027847075

    http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/select1271.htm

  15. #40

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bkoons85gt View Post
    My goodness, you are doing an amazing job on this car. I like the color combo, but I am partial. LOL
    Nice! Factory two tone as well?

    My car looked just like that originally except it was beat to hell.

  16. #41

    Default Undercarriage

    Posting in this manner is a little confusing for me at times. A lot of these tasks crossed over with other ones. So if it seems a little disjointed to you, I understand completely. It's DEFINITELY disjointed for me.

    Anywho.....So the first thing I did to this car was to weld in subframe connectors. That will be the first thing I do to my blue car when it's sitting in my garage. I didn't take pictures at the time of the install, but here's a photo of them welded in.Name:  IMG_0654.JPG
Views: 221
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    Not the greatest picture of them, but you see them there.

    I removed the brake and fuel lines after that picture.

    When I got this car, it was loaded down with red Oklahoma dirt. A power washer only has so much effect. I thought it was soooo much better than originally. I found out I had only just begun cleaning. We have mud daubers here (a wasp) that likes to build nests on any object that isn't moving. There were mud dauber nests everywhere under this car. I had to use a screwdriver and a mallet to break all of them up.

    Once the drivetrain was out and I had it up on stands, the rear floor pans were replaced and then I welded in the SFCs. Next came the rear control arm reinforcements and finally seam sealing.

    I say finally, but apparently didn't know what "finally" was with this car.

    There was a tear in the rea floor pan where it looked like some one had tried to pull the car somewhere. I welded it up.Name:  IMG_0648.jpg
Views: 222
Size:  58.6 KB

    I needed to seam seal, so I needed a clean surface. I scrubbed off the remaining dirt with brushes and red scotchbrites. I then washed the entire undercarriage with hot soapy water and rags, then rinsed it. Then I scuffed the surface with dry red scotchbrites to help with the edhesion of the POR 15.Name:  IMG_0397.jpg
Views: 223
Size:  61.3 KB

    I used mini rollers and paint brushes to apply the POR 15, I ended up looking like a cheetah with all the spots that dripped on me. BTW, I immediately cleaned all the spots off of my face, arms, etc...once this stuff dries, it won't come off easily. This is with the POR 15 on the undercarriageName:  IMG_0646.jpg
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    After the POR 15 dried, I scuffed it again and sprayed this stuff over the entire surfaceName:  IMG_0637.jpg
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  17. #42

    Default

    And finally with two coats of undercoating sprayedName:  IMG_0650.jpg
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    I thought I was done, but i'm now considering jacking rails too. THEN, I'll be done with the undercarriage! Lol!

  18. #43
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    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Default

    That's a lot of work Dave! Inspiring!
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!

  19. #44

    Default The Hatch

    The hatch that was on my dirty little red car was rotted to hell. You've seen me fix other stuff, I hope you understand when I say I wasn't going to fix it, it wasn't really all that nice.

    So, off to the salvage yard. I got ahold of this guy from a tip from one of the older salvage yards here in Tulsa. Well, kind of...They gave me a number to a guy that they thought liked the "old fox bodies". This guy said he didn't know why that yard kept giving out his number, the guy I wanted to talk to was this other guy. Eventually I found Danny. One of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. AND a 4i'd nut like us!

    This is the yard that I found my other project car in. It was like one of those days that seems like a fog in retrospect. How on earth did I find a t-top coupe? Anyhow, different story on a different thread.

    So, I needed a hatch (and a front bumper you've already seen). Here's what I ended up with.Name:  IMG_1606.jpg
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    Of course it had the spoiler too. I'll cover that shortly.

    I found a little bit of rot that I fixed with some patch panelsName:  IMG_1601.jpg
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  20. #45

    Default Hatch

    Of course I stripped off the old paint and seam sealer like I'm doing on either car.Name:  IMG_1623.jpg
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    It got the usual treatment. It got etched and primered. Blocking of the primer, body work where needed, reprimered, reblocked, yaadaa, yaadaa. Then I reseam sealed it and painted the jamb first (BTW, these dang hatches are about as unwieldy as any panel I've ever shot).Name:  IMG_2948.jpg
Views: 204
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    Of course I went the usual apepoop over the top surface. I blocked out the entire hatch as flat as I could get it, except for the area the spoiler goes. Then I painted it that pretty redName:  IMG_3005.jpg
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    In the sunName:  IMG_3009.jpg
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  21. #46

    Default Hatch and Spoiler

    Two more hatch in the sunName:  IMG_3016.jpg
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    So, hatch is painted, the spoiler needed some love as wellName:  IMG_1594.jpg
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    I stripped it and repaired cracks in the upper corners where the attachment screws had been tightened too much and split the edgeName:  IMG_1656.jpg
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    So it got the regular primering, blocking, reprimering, reblocking and then paintName:  IMG_2950.jpg
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  22. #47

    Default Spoiler in the Sun

    In the sunName:  IMG_2952.jpg
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    BTW, usually pictures show less of bad stuff than they do in person. I wish you could see these in person. There is no orange peel, this is without buffing. There is little dirt, if any at all. I will need to do minor buffing for dirt specs. I'm so stinking thrilled of how they have turned out.

    If you want to know exactly what I've done, I'll tell you. Let me know.

    I'm really proud of how beautiful they have come out in the end. Someday this car will be soooooo bitchin'.

    This pretty well catches me up to where I am now.

    Let me think what I haven't told you yet. I have narrrowed the 8.8 rearend 2" on each side and have strange 5 lug axles for it.

    Coilovers on the front, all UPR including the K-member.

    I will be doing the trim around the windows in the next couple weeks, the quarter trim, the bodyside mouldings. Then this car will be going into storage for a period of time while I finish the blue car. It really may be another three years before the red car is done. I have to buy, build and outfit the new engine. Buy a transmission able to handle the mid 500 rwhp I'm shooting for, and alllllllllll of the other little crap it takes to build a car to drive.

    Youll be seeing a few more posts as I finish the trim, then hibernation as I finish the blue car.

  23. #48

    Default

    Oh yeah! Of course there will be the interior stuff I will do to. The quarter trim needs to be extended out the two inches as well to account for the mini-tubbing.

    Here's a picture of how ugly they are right now.Name:  IMG_0645.jpg
Views: 203
Size:  89.8 KB Just wait. It'll look so good when I'm done.

    This is more complicated than you might think. the rear seats need to be narrowed as well. The back is a simple four inches, though the bottoms need to maintain their full width at the front and narrowed as they arc around the wheel tubs. Challenging, sure. But I'm kind of excited about how I will accomplish this to include the upholstery changes. I want it to look quasi-factory.

    I was going to go a light grey on the interior, but now I think I'll maintain the porno red. In the end, I have to incorporate a small amount of green for my son. I'll figure that out somewhere in this build.

  24. #49
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Awesome work, and that color really pops!!!

  25. #50
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    The green you speak of , is already incorporated into the car .
    All that cash to build it , is green .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

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