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  1. #1

    Default how to lock out duraspark distributor?

    any one has done this? im planing on going efi with megasquirt. so I want to control timming at all times...

    I will no longer need for vacum or mechanical advance

    apparently you can not unscrew everything on the distributor that easy to reach the counter weights

  2. #2

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    It's been years since I did this but you should be able to remove the vacuum canister all together. Then remove the springs from the counter weights and safety wire them in place using the original spring tabs so they are fixed.

  3. #3

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    Curious why you would not want any advance. That's what makes a motor rev up quickly and perform "up top"

  4. #4

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    I think the EFI controls the spark map electronically. To do this you lock out the distributor, just using for a base timing setting, and control every thing with the tables in the megasquirt system.
    Mike
    85 GT - owned since 87

  5. #5

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    Would have to see a diagram to understand how that might work

  6. #6

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    It seems that way but havent been able to completely have any way to reach the counter weights in the botom... And i dont really feel like prying hrd on these parts... I wouldnt even mind cutting the vacuum from the distributor...

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Curious why you would not want any advance. That's what makes a motor rev up quickly and perform "up top"
    Like in new engines without a distributor the ecm ecu whatever u feel like calling it controls the timming advance and retard. So since megasquirt is a completelt tunable ecm i will be giving the specific timming

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86FOX4EYE View Post
    It's been years since I did this but you should be able to remove the vacuum canister all together. Then remove the springs from the counter weights and safety wire them in place using the original spring tabs so they are fixed.
    It seems that way but havent been able to completely have any way to reach the counter weights in the botom... And i dont really feel like prying hrd on these parts... I wouldnt even mind cutting the vacuum from the distributor...

  9. #9

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    My memory is cloudy but I think you can knock the roll pin out of the distributor gear, remove the gear and slide the shaft out if the housing. That should allow you to get to what you need too. Again, I'm kind of shooting from the hip here.

  10. #10

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    Could you drill a hole through the advance shaft below the reluctor into the main shaft and pin it like the gear?
    Mike
    85 GT - owned since 87

  11. #11

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    Not sure. Never tried it.

  12. #12

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    This may help if its the same distributor you are using.
    http://www.reincarnation-automotive....ons_index.html

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member
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    Default

    The distributor , is very easy to get apart .
    Pull the felt out of the center , where the rotor goes.
    Inside there is a clip.
    Remove the clip , the vac . Advance can , and 2 phillips screws , and the base is off.
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by JKengineering View Post
    Could you drill a hole through the advance shaft below the reluctor into the main shaft and pin it like the gear?
    Mike
    that i have thought doing...

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86FOX4EYE View Post
    My memory is cloudy but I think you can knock the roll pin out of the distributor gear, remove the gear and slide the shaft out if the housing. That should allow you to get to what you need too. Again, I'm kind of shooting from the hip here.
    The bottom one woth do it. I have already gone through a couple of em... Must be the one on top

  16. #16

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    [QUOTE=86FOX4EYE;1843144]This may help if its the same distributor you are using.
    http://www.reincarnation-automotive....ons_index.html[/QUOTE
    Will try with a spare one and see if i dont ruin it hahaha

  17. #17

    Default

    You can weld it too. I've used various techniques on different dizzys - welding, pining, and even bolts to lock them. Your thinking is correct, Megasquirt can handle it for you and be more accurate and flexible.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Earp View Post
    You can weld it too. I've used various techniques on different dizzys - welding, pining, and even bolts to lock them. Your thinking is correct, Megasquirt can handle it for you and be more accurate and flexible.
    defintely, ive been also thinking of taking the distributor out and placing instead a camshaft position sensor which comes in 94 rangers but i dont know if it would mean I would a need a trigger wheel or so like edis4 using coil on plug... still researching about it...
    the cheapest and fastest rout claims locking the dist.

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member
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    You did not read my reply for some reason , or you would have it apart .
    Takes 10 minutes.

    Yes the Explorer , uses a triger wheel , for the edis .
    Works well , but not just plug and play .
    I would use the Explorer stuff , and convert it to edis .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  20. #20
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    While you are doing all this distributor work make sure the distributor housing main shaft bushings are good and tight on the main shaft.

    After 30+ years the bushings just might be a little work and need replaced.
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1979 Ford T5 Ghia Coupe
    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

    www.musclecardeals.com


  21. #21
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    If you use Duraspark III logic, you can just add a cut out wheel and leave the distributor as it is. You do have to lock it, obviously.

    Ford used crank position sensors to conquer the idiosyncratic speed density EECIII CFi.

    The pre Port Injection 2 injector CFi used the TFI logic.


    Only Ford would put a crank sensor on a CFi vehicle....





    Ford didn't want to put a crank position sensor on its EECIV cars, so it used the TFI module to customize an ignition curve for every territory.


    The other way is to use the more advanced OBD I era EFI ignition pickups:-

    You either go EFI IV TFI ignition, or

    G""d forbid, 7 pin conversion to a GM style HEI or DUI.

    Even back yarders from the Nevada desert can make a TFI and Megasquirt a reliable prospect....


    https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=...2863&start=100
    Quote Originally Posted by MechRick
    Quote Originally Posted by chad
    "...the old carb…"
    Yep. Old. Outdated. Antiquated. Obsolete. Useless. Did I step on any toes? :rolflmao:

    I think I'm just going to inject everything from now on...

  22. #22

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    This is how I did it.

    1. Pry the reluctor off the advance shaft.
    2. Unscrew the two screws holding the cover plate on and remove it
    3. remove the advance springs
    4. remove felt pad under the rotor
    5. remove the retaining clip under the felt pad
    6. slide the advance shaft off the main shaft
    7. remove the distributor drive gear and pull the distributor shaft out
    8. Secure the advance shaft and plate in a vise and drill a hole large enough for a 10-32 screw. (This plate is hardened and I couldn't drill it with a standard bit. I used a carbide tipped drill bit for drilling glass.)
    9. Put the advance shaft back on the distributor shaft and use that as a guide to drill the hole into the drive plate. (Use a 5/32 bit for drilling this hole so it can be tapped with a 10-32 tap. A regular drill bit will work for this.)
    10. Tap the hole you drilled in the drive plate with a 10/32 tap.
    11. Screw the drive plate and advance plate together with a 10-32 screw, and cut off the excess sticking out of the drive plate. (Leave about a fingernails thickness sticking through to peen over and retain the screw)
    12. Peen the shaft of the screw sticking out of the drive plate to make sure the screw doesn't back out.
    13. Re-assemble your distributor.

    14. Once your distributor is locked out, you will need to phase the pickup to the distributor cap so that when the MegaSquit fires the spark,the rotor is pointing at the appropriate tower.



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    Julian

    85 Capri - Hydroboost, 2004 rack conversion, Saginaw PS pump, SVO 4wheel disks & suspension Megasquirt.

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