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  1. #1

    Default Engine wont crank

    So I just finished re installing the dash in my car and plugging everything back up, I can't seem to get the car to crank. When I turn the key nothing happens, but there is power, not a dead battery. Furthermore, if you touch the two wires with a tool on the starter solenoid, it cranks and can turn on. There is also one wire that gets hot even when the car isnt cranking. Any idea what might be going on or how i can test to find out the issue, I'm ignorant when it comes to electrical.
    Last edited by ironcore10; 04-24-2017 at 12:27 AM.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    My first guess is ignition switch. Second is faulty ground on the selinoid.

    Not sure if the wires on yours have been played with, mine have. I have an alarm on mine that interrupts the power to the ECU relay and the starter solenoid among other things.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    My first guess is ignition switch. Second is faulty ground on the selinoid.

    Not sure if the wires on yours have been played with, mine have. I have an alarm on mine that interrupts the power to the ECU relay and the starter solenoid among other things.
    Where would I find the wires that an alarm system would interrupt? There was one in the car, but I don't remember much about it other than just pulling it because it looked like a piece of junk


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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    The alarm probably only interrupts the white/pink wire crank signal wire on yours. That is very common alarm trick. "Starter kill" they would call it.

    Look at the diagram
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring .gif

    With the notch on the plug up and the ignition switch slid to the crank position check for power on the bottom right white/pink wire then trace it.

    Check your neutral safety switch. Some manuals have a switch that can malfunction, many just have this plug looped.... depending. Ohm it out with the car off

    Check your clutch release plug/wire/switch. Automatics will have this looped. Again, probe for continuity and also verify it's not grounded out.

    be careful when you do this step if it's a stick - block the wheels and put the car in neutral - but shoot 12v to the red wire at the release loop/switch. It should crank. Trace back from there.

    I had a starter with a cracked case that did the whole won't crank by the key but will when the selinoid is shorted thing to me. Ultimately it finally just broke entirely.

    Have seen it with loose starter bolts too.

    Same goes for worn worn out brushes.

    BTW - if you still have your original starter KEEP IT! Mine survived 425K with just a couple brush changes. The third time nobody had any and I made the mistake of installing the reman and sending mine back as a core instead of parting the reman for brushes. I've been putting up with a piece of crap starter ever since. My original starter always worked flawlessly.
    Last edited by erratic50; 04-25-2017 at 02:59 AM.

  5. #5

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    I did my dash and numbered each matching connector accordingly. The one thing I did notice is that all the connectors matched in color for both sides. Gray for gray brown for brown, etc. In the picture you have a gray plug in a green connector. Maybe it is an after market connector, I don't know, but if you got wires getting hot when the key is off something is not connected right. I can't look under the dash to help right now "suffered broken neck when a truck hit my other stang" but I would look at my connectors and grounds.

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