Those doors look mint, esp the inside / bottom lip. That will save tons of time vs. having to repair rusty doors.
Those doors look mint, esp the inside / bottom lip. That will save tons of time vs. having to repair rusty doors.
1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
1986 SVO Mustang - 1C
Well it’s a winter storm here and I decided to work in the garage after cleaning the driveway. I epoxy primed the doors today and hope to put the driver door on tomorrow.
I had to weld material to the door where on the hinge. It was worn out from years of wear. Now the door should stay open.
That epoxy primer lays out nice and smooth. Looking good.
1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
1986 SVO Mustang - 1C
Are you converting the new doors to the 79 low handles inside?
I haven’t decided yet. I have enough doors that I can. I don’t know why the trim is different on the newer doors so I will have to do more research before finalizing my decision.
Today I installed the 5 lug rear axles. For my build I purchased a set of 2003 cobra wheels.
I haven’t seen this before. Should I be worried? I noticed it on both drums.
The wheels on the car look pretty good.
One more question. This car had quad shocks installed to eliminate wheel hop. With theses wheels, it won’t work and I’m looking for ideas from anyone who has attempted this upgrade. If I go without quad shocks, what works to eliminate wheel hop?
The drums are made in a two part process. The disc is stamped steel and the cast iron is molded onto it. As long as the two parts are tight, no problem.
They seem tight, I just wonder for how long. It doesn’t look like it’s fully connected.
Quality rear lower control arms such as Maximum Motorsports will help to eliminate rear wheel hop. Also make sure you have rubber bushings in all the upper control arms and they are OEM Ford NOT aftermarket solid/tubular upper control arms and NO Poly at all.
Another option in addition to the rear lower control arms is a Torque Arm and Panhard bar that allow you to eliminate the upper control arms completely, but that gets a bit more expensive. Definitely worth it, but more $$.
I highly recommend Maximum Motorsports suspension parts well worth the $$.
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
They seem tight, I just wonder for how long. It doesn’t look like it’s fully connected.
I pretty much broke the bank already with a maximum Motorsport front end. I do believe the uppers are poly and will check.
Maximum Motorsport front end.
I completely understand. I would check the uppers and if they are OEM with Poly then swap out all upper bushings for New Rubber bushings K8637 Moog is a kit with both bushings for one upper control arm. Buy a pair of those and swap them out. The MM bushing tool for the uppers http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Re...Tool-P190.aspx is well worth the $$ to save time and trouble.
If your uppers are aftermarket solid/tubulars then I recommend the stock style Uppers http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Re...tang-P544.aspx and new upper control arm rubber bushings in the rear axle housing.
That change alone will help with any current wheel hop with or without the quad shocks. Adding a pair of the MM rear control arms http://www.maximummotorsports.com/19...tang-C425.aspx (pick based upon budget, HP level, and use) will help to eliminate rear wheel hop again with or without the quad shocks. Good Luck!
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
This weekend I worked on the doors and stripped the hood.
The hood had previously been damaged by a broken belt.
Now I have a dilemma, the passenger fender has a big and even gap at the top of the fender.
Has anyone had this problem and what have you done to close the gap.
That looks more like a fan blade did that damage to the hood.
Are you using the original 79 fenders? The 79 has a bump at the cowl and a corresponding indent on the fender edge. I found I had to work over the 91-93 fenders I used to fit up tight to the cowl.
I believe the original fenders are long gone. The drivers side fender is Ok but the jobber one for the passenger side has the big gap. I’m looking for a used fender and hope it fits better. There is a guy in Calgary with a set but I live in the middle of nowhere and don’t want to pay lots of money for shipping.
And yes,I do agree it was likely the fan that blew up as collateral damage. This is an original Saskatoon Saskatchewan car and I purchased it from the second owner is 1988, that’s 30 years ago now. I’m getting old.
You should measure the wheel openings on the fenders and see if they are newer ones or not. Maybe newer ones dont fit at the top as nice with the older bodies? Just a thought
I used reproduction fenders on mine and was able to get them to fit fine. The bump is just the spot at the front corner of the cowl where the rubber plug goes in. You can work a relief into the edge of the fender to fit around it easily.
Weekend update. I purchased PPG high build primer and did the roof, quarters and doors. First step was to epoxy prime any bare spots, followed by priming the body. That stuff is expensive .
Pictures of it epoxied. The last picture shows the gap between the fender and cowl.
My first thought is make sure the body isn’t tweaked. Core support vs firewall vs doors....
The “premium” — CAPA certified — replacement fenders from Rock Auto are very inexpensive and fit great in my experience. They are thinner metal but have better corrosion resistance so think of it as a performance upgrade. Lol.
Forcing the issue there are options too. You could always take the hood edge to bare metal then tack weld down the edge to build up the metal and bring it straight with a long file then some time with 80 grit on a stick.
Also a fiberglass re-enforced waterproof bondo like “Rot out” which Napa carries would let you fill then sand to build up and get it straight.
I have been considering these options. I might buy a used fender before trying these options. My capa fender isn’t bad, I just needed to put a relief in at the cowl. The gap is my biggest concern.
I will keep working on the rest of the car until I get the used fender.
Patrick
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