Close



Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1

    Default 82 Mustang Gauge cluster lights do not work

    Gauge light do not work...

    I have checked all fuses even replaced the cluster voltage regulator & the cluster lights do not come on.

    The seat belt light comes on, the turn signal lights, radio lights, a/c heater lights and console lights all work.
    Do you think the circuit board could be bad... the cluster is the original 82 that came in the car.

    Don't know if related but the RPM gauge & Fuel gauge do not work as well... all other gauges work.

    Any info on what to do next is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2

    Default

    Hi, sounds like your next step is to remove the instrument panel, I think I have some photos somewhere when I did mine if that would be any help?
    People who say it cannot be done should not get in the way of the people doing it!

    1979 Mustang 2.8V6
    2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 limited

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Gauge lights could be due to the headlight switch, but if everything else comes on with the running lights/headlights that is doubtful. You could have a bad circuit board, but unless you see an actual break or burn mark you will have to do a continuity test on the circuits that don't work to verify if the board is bad. If you have another gauge cluster to swap in that might tell you something too. Just don't use a 79 cluster or circuit board! Don't ask me how I know!

    RPM and Fuel gauge don't have anything to do with the headlight switch, so . . .

    RPM gets it's signal from the negative side of the coil. I would check to make sure that is connected properly. You might also test for continuity from the coil to the instrument cluster plug.

    Fuel gauge could be a bad sending unit in the tank, a bad ground, or a power issue. You will need to verify the power and ground and if still nothing, then very likely you will need to drop the tank to get to the sending unit.

    It's also possible you have a bad gauge or two, but that doesn't happen too often.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    If memory serves me correctly simply shorting both sides of the sending wires will make the gauge show a full tank.

    Ive seen the float fall off the sending unit before on an 86.

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks for the suggestions, as soon as I get time I will test out a few things. I will post my findings as I go.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Duncannon PA
    Posts
    1,047

    Default

    Don't forget to check the simple thing of a fuse. There is one for the tach at least.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •