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  1. #1
    FEP Member
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    Default Wiring up my new FAST EZ-EFI.

    I'm installing an efi on my 84 gt, it's been awhile since I messed with the wiring. The instructions say " The 12 V switched wire is connected to a source that is hot with the key in the on/run and crank position". Now, in my Haynes repair manual I'm seeing hot-in-run red/lt grn and red/yel. Ignition switch brn/pnk, red/blk. I'm not to wire it through the positive side of the coil, any help would be great. Thanks

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I had to add a jumper in at the ignition switch to get power during cranking for my EFI. I don't recall which terminal it was , but it was unused for any other function on my 79. Other wise you might need to use a relay to feed a cranking power source to the efi and use the regular ignition lead for the run power.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    As BMW Rider has stated, there will need to be a jumper or splice between the red/lt green and brown/pink as there is no wire that is currently hot in both crank and run. This needs to be done before the red/black resistance wire that way you retain a full 12v to the system. I have not done my system this way yet as I needed to get the car back together in short time, due to a house move coming up, so I am currently running a hidden toggle switch for my trigger.

    Here is a link someone shared with me that kind of helped make sense of the wiring needed to make it work off the key.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...l-switched-hot

    Also, congrats on the FAST EZ-EFI conversion. If yours works as good as the one I just did on my 84, you are going to LOVE it! It's still in learning on my car so there are a few rough spots to work out of the throttle response, but the more I'm driving it the smoother it is getting.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  4. #4
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    Thanks guy's for the info, I also used a 87 efi tank along with the FAST fuel pump harness. Will post when I have it running.

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I must say it sounds nice and healthy too 84StangSVT

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    I must say it sounds nice and healthy too 84StangSVT
    I hope so. I need to have someone else drive it (who can drive a manual...not my family) so I can hear it from an outside perspective. All my observations are from inside the drivers seat.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ford427r View Post
    Thanks guy's for the info, I also used a 87 efi tank along with the FAST fuel pump harness. Will post when I have it running.
    I used an 86+ efi tank, fuel pump, hanger and added a fuel pump relay and inertia switch to emulate a factory setup. So far so good on that end and I can feel good knowing the fuel pump will kick out in the event of a mishap.

    Also......

    Just a heads up. My experience with FAST tech line is less than stellar. Any useful information can be found here:
    http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/forum...ort-forum.235/

    I will say that I have had the MAP sensor die already on me, 100 miles, and that is the one part that everyone on the forum says change right off the bat. It is a common GM part that you can get for a few bucks at the junkyard. A new one is almost $80 at the McParts store.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 04-18-2017 at 09:26 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    What if they prefer BKParts?

    Remember - nobody like Kentucky Fried parts.

  9. #9
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    84stangsvt, I sent you a pm.

  10. #10
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    Been done with the new setup, drive's great. No more smelling like a gas station, but I have a problem with the voltage gauge fluctuating. I've replaced the alternator (it was bad) and check all my ground's, still the same. Any idea's?

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    What if they prefer BKParts?

    Remember - nobody like Kentucky Fried parts.
    Popeye's Spicy parts are the best!!!!

    Ford427R

    if you still have the factory gauges, I think the stock one is an ammeter, not a volt gauge. I am not sure if that gauge uses it, but I believe on the back of the cluster is a voltage regulator that cuts down the voltage going to the gauges. It connects like a 9 volt battery.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

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