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  1. #1
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Default 1983 capri no start! please help

    Ok so I was disconnecting the battery on my 1983 capri 5 speed, and there was a wire on the positive terminal and it grounded out, and now the car will not start. I was messing with it all day today to no avail, I feel very ignorant no being able to know where to start or how to diag. Please help.i replaced starter solenoid, when I have battery connected, after reconnecting the battery. I have power in side car dome light, door locks etc. I turn key over and nothing then power loss, I dis connect battery re connect the power comes back. I check fuses inside car all have power except 5 amp instrument fuse? I am at a loss with my limited skills, i want to learn i just need to know where to start.did i ruin starter? Or did i mess up a fuseable link? If so how do I diag, repair and replace. Any help would be appreciated, I have some messages out to fellow members but would like some more input. Thanks.

  2. #2

    Default

    I would hazard a guess at a fusible link that probably powers ignition/starting... hit the wiring diagram...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member onetrackrider's Avatar
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    Default

    Time to call Skip..
    Current rides:
    89 LX 5.0, 5 -spd..the Lemon
    86 RS Capri 5.0 Auto...
    86 LX Colorado SSP 5.0 5-spd (Sadly Sold)
    85.5 SVO, Finally Got Boost
    83 RS Capri 5.0, 5-spd (another sadly sold)

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member
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    Default

    Sounds like a bad connection , possible a ground .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  5. #5

    Default

    Look at the fusible links at the start relay. If any look even slightly blistered it is time to replace it.

  6. #6

    Default

    Looks can be deceiving with fusible links. Before replacing one, it's very easy to verify it's condition using
    a test light, or digital meter. Either one of these can be had for around $10-$20, and will save you at least
    that much in wasted parts replacements the first time you use it.

    That said, the symptom of having power until you try to crank the engine, then it all goes dark, is a classic
    symptom of a battery cable that is not making good contact with the post, or an internal failure of the same
    type within the battery. Again, rather than keep chasing the problem away, a test light could tell you where
    you're losing the connection.

    When it all goes dark, you can check for power at the post, without touching anything else, then repeat the
    test on the cable clamp, or at the starter relay end of the cable. Same goes for the ground side.
    Last edited by JACook; 05-13-2017 at 12:17 PM.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

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