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  1. #1
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Question Strange issue with 79 Pace Car

    Had my Pace Car out the other day and My first stop was for fuel about a quarter mile away. Filled up the tank and drove about another quarter mile and the engine started running bad wanting to stall. Kept it going for another couple miles and no improvement. First thing I thought was try a new fuel filter. The parts store was out of the one I need. So I just figured I would start it up in my garage and see what happens if I keep it running by holding the gas pedal down a little bit. It ran terrible for about 5 minutes and then instantly smoothed out. Here's the strange thing about it. When it smoothed out the low fuel light came on down at the console! Those lights have acted strange for as long as I had the car which is since 1986. Has anyone ever ran into anything like this? Strange indeed.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    I would check the "Sock/Fuel Strainer" on the inlet tube of the fuel pickup in the gas tank.

    When the socks/strainers get old they get dirty, can collapse due to fuel pump suction pressure and restrict or stop fuel flow to the carb as the fuel pumps attempts to "suck" fuel. In High School I had a BB Corvette that would run 49 MPH in 4th and would totally quit at 50 MPH in 4th. Problem was the fuel sock/strainer on the end of the fuel pickup tube was bad. Replaced the fuel sock/strainer and problem solved.

    I can't remember is the fuel pickup and sending unit are one on a 79 however if so as generally was the situation on most cars at that time this could also be a possible reason for the low fuel light issue.
    Mike
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  3. #3
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Wow, thanks for the information. That sure sounds like it could be the problem. Do you have to drop the tank to do the work you described? I have never had the tank out on this car as it has never given me any trouble. The car is a survivor that has not been restored. Do you know if the parts are available to repair this? Thanks a lot.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironhorse2 View Post
    Wow, thanks for the information. That sure sounds like it could be the problem. Do you have to drop the tank to do the work you described? Do you know if the parts are available to repair this? Thanks a lot.

    Drop the tank? Yes.

    Parts are available from the Foxbody parts suppliers.
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

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  5. #5
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Here is the filter from LMR. As Mike said, the tank will need to be dropped which is a fairly simple job provided the tank is almost empty.
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9275DFILTER...it-filter-8385

    While you have the tank down, it would be a great idea to change out the rubber hoses from the tank to hard lines. I would imagine they are getting pretty questionable if they are still the original hoses. It is also possible that the ethanol in today's fuels may have swelled the inner liners of those hoses to where they are almost closed off.

    I would also change the vapor valve seal and filler neck seal also, which are available from LMR. Most of them I have seen after this much time are also pretty dry rotted. If they are not then you should be good, but it is cheap insurance from fuel leaks down the road.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-28-2017 at 09:55 AM.
    Brock
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  6. #6
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot! I really appreciate it. Like I said before this car has never been restored and has never given me much problems all these years, so I never worked on the tank. Thanks very much for all the info you gave me about the hoses etc. I looked on a couple parts suppliers but they didn't show anything for a 79. So I will look on the one you suggested.

  7. #7
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    The studs that hold the tank straps back by the bumper are completely wasted. Almost 40 years of rust. Are they welded into the the metal there? If I feel above with my fingers I feel some kind of tab there. Suggestions on what to do to remove the old studs and put new ones in? Also, do I need to buy the hoses to the steel lines already cut or can I use some hose from a local parts store? Thanks in advance.

  8. #8

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    Hi,
    Do not forget to disconnect the battery before you start work. Also use a block of wood on a hydraulic jack under the tank, then when you undo the tank lower the jack to remove the tank from the car.
    National Parts Depot have all the parts for the fuel tank:
    https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalo...nk-6126-1.html
    Good luck
    steve
    People who say it cannot be done should not get in the way of the people doing it!

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  9. #9
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. I still need some advice on what to do about those rusted studs that are holding the straps on. Can anybody give me advise on that problem?

  10. #10

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    Once you start to wrench on them you might be able to coax them to the opening and they might pop out. Also they are cut at the factory about an inch downName:  1490909353903-1256159829.jpg
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Size:  88.4 KB. Also 79 straps are special and are not available that I have found. My 79 tank looks like this and you wouldn't necessarily have to pull it to remove the senderName:  1490909523551352925857.jpg
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Size:  100.7 KB. Of the 3 79s I have I was able to, with heat get 2 of the bolts loose enough to get them out so you can really work on them. I also may have an extra strap

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member 306gt's Avatar
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    If the sock strainer in the tank does not cure it. It could be a float that dropped in the carb or maybe some debris in the needle and seat. It could have flooded the engine.
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  12. #12
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    The studs or bolts whichever you call them are in terrible condition. What size is the nut? I tried different sizes on them and can't get a hold to try to loosen them. Is cutting the nut off an option or heating them up? Can they be replaced if necessary? Thanks for the help!

  13. #13
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    One member said the tank needs to come off to get to the sender and another member said it's not necessary. Any more input about that would be appreciated. Thanks!
    Last edited by ironhorse2; 03-30-2017 at 09:35 PM.

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Heat only one side of the nut up then touch a wax candle to the stud on the opposite side. This will draw wax up into the threads and make it vastly easier to get the nut off. Works like a champ on rusted lug nuts too btw.

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironhorse2 View Post
    Also, do I need to buy the hoses to the steel lines already cut or can I use some hose from a local parts store? Thanks in advance.
    I would just get hose from the auto parts store and cut to length.

    Quote Originally Posted by ironhorse2 View Post
    One member said the tank needs to come off to get to the sender and another member said it's not necessary. Any more input about that would be appreciated. Thanks!
    I haven't worked on a 79 but I think it would be safe to say that if your tank looks like the one that 2nd chance cobra posted above, with the sender in the bottom, then the tank would not need to be dropped. If it is like all the others I've seen then the sender is on top and it will have to be dropped to work on.
    Brock
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  16. #16
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Thanks very much for all the feedback! I appreciate it very much!
    Last edited by ironhorse2; 03-31-2017 at 08:43 AM. Reason: Add more info.

  17. #17
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Does anyone know where I can get a lock ring tool to fit on this unit? All of this info is starting to kick in on me. Never did this before and it's a learning process. Thanks.

  18. #18
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    screw driver and a small hammer.

    Tap on a tab on the lock ring and off it comes!

    Re-install same way.
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

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  19. #19
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironhorse2 View Post
    Does anyone know where I can get a lock ring tool to fit on this unit? All of this info is starting to kick in on me. Never did this before and it's a learning process. Thanks.
    I assume you mean to remove the ring that holds the sending unit to the tank? I always just soak it down with penetrating oil, let it sit for a while and then use a flat punch and hammer and tap it around, i believe counterclockwise to remove until it spins off. I have used a large pair of channellocks also if it is fairly clean and not rusted. They are usually not so bad that they won't come off fairly easy.
    Brock
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  20. #20

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    If you want to call me after work I will help the best I can. 5152313447shane. 15 mm bolt. you can replace the bolts if you cut them. A couple of heat and cold cycles may help loosen stuff up. Patience helps. And be careful of the straps. Again if your sender is low on the tank, which it should be, you don't need to drop the tank, if you can catch the gas.

  21. #21
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    Make sure you keep the area around the lock ring clean as you are removing it. Otherwise all of that crap around it can fall into the tank. You can also get a new replacement lock ring for around $10. I usually just get a new one if I don't know the condition of the old one ahead of time. You are in PA so I would assume the old one is fairly rusty. They do make a special tool to remove them, but I've never used one. The aforementioned screwdriver and hammer method has always worked for me.

  22. #22
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot to all you guys! I think I have all the info I need now to do this thing. I was thinking all along about the hammer and chisel route to remove the ring but didn't know if it was a good idea. I have to order the seal and might as well go for a new lock ring too. You guys have been great and I really thank you for all of the help.

  23. #23
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    I don't know if I would use a chisel. You might end up chiseling off the tabs on the lock ring rather than turning it. I usually use a decent size flat blade screwdriver. Technically you should probably use a brass drift so you don't create a spark and set your garage on fire.

  24. #24
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinVarnes View Post
    Technically you should probably use a brass drift so you don't create a spark and set your garage on fire.
    I haven't blown myself up yet going the route of non-brass tools to remove the ring. I would think that one would have to be extremely unlucky to create a spark during the process. Guess there's a first time for everything.

    Ordering a new lock ring is good insurance simply for the fact you will get the new o-ring that sits between the sending unit and tank. One less thing to worry about when put back together.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
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  25. #25
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    I heard about the spark thing before and I have that in mind. Thats why I wanted to use the tool. But I see they want outrageous prices for them. I have a pit in my garage. Used to be a service station here. So it"s easy to work underneath. I agree about the new lock ring with o-ring included. Sounds good to me. Thanks again.

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