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  1. #26

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    use a brass drift, Never steel on steel. I work on alot of these, Rust belt states make it so hard I know, *80 Cobra here bought new, never in salt.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    I haven't blown myself up yet going the route of non-brass tools to remove the ring. I would think that one would have to be extremely unlucky to create a spark during the process. Guess there's a first time for everything.
    Nor have I thankfully, but I felt obligated to at least warn of the dangers. I'm okay if I do it and I blow myself up. I'm not good if someone else does it with dire consequences.

  3. #28

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    12 years working for general motors never used the tool once. Never saw anyone use it

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinVarnes View Post
    Nor have I thankfully, but I felt obligated to at least warn of the dangers. I'm okay if I do it and I blow myself up. I'm not good if someone else does it with dire consequences.
    Totally understand. That is an excellent recommendation to make.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

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  5. #30
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    I'll use the brass to be safe. I always try to do things the safe way. Thanks all!

  6. #31
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Copper also won't spark. Buy a short section of solid core copper wire and hammer it out flat. Bend the copper over the end of the screw driver.

  7. #32
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    How do you guys recommend to siphon the fuel out of my tank. I had just put $12 worth in when this trouble started. I tried the hose with another short piece to blow into and had no luck. I'm looking at these siphons they sell on e-bay but don't want to buy something that doesn't work.

  8. #33
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    $7.00 fluid transfer pump from Harbor Freight works great or suck on a siphon tube.

    Or do what I do.

    Put the car on your lift in your shop and use a transmission jack to lower the fuel tank.

    Weight problem solved!!!
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

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  9. #34
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Ok - having dropped full tanks by hand multiple times I've just gotta ask - what weight problem? Lol.

    Yea, always have been equally lucky about fuel level when there are problems.

    My approach is back up on jackstands as high as the go by the rear of the subframe connectors, front wheels blocked on the ground.

    Head and hands towards the passenger side to play with the fill neck, knees and feet towards the drivers side to help control it.

    Never fun, but doable.

    Butt to brain - overload.

  10. #35
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I flushed the fuel tank after it sat for 12 years.
    Disconnected the hose to the fuel pump and added gas.
    Been a while. May have used a little air to pressurize the tank some.

    Disconnect the tank to pump line in back and let it drain from there.
    Whatever is left wont be much.

    When replacing the fuel hoses back there, buy a couple feet of correct size.
    Match up the length to the old ones and cleanly cut the hoses.
    Make sure they are clean inside after.

    The early Fox used the old style t-shape strap ends up front in the sub frame.
    Need to replace mine. Have not found a source with direct replacement part.
    May wind up using universal straps of the correct length and some t-bolts.

    Or search for some from another app that use the same style and length.
    May take hours but so what.
    Similar:
    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...374#fragment-2
    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_saca...+straps&_frs=1

    A shop that does this work says no problem making some.
    Or find an app that uses the same lengths. Many makes used them into the 2000's.
    Ranger, F150, Chrysler/Dodge, GM.
    Or adapt the newer style somehow.

  11. #36
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Wow, thanks a lot for the info! I really appreciate you taking the time to help me on this!

  12. #37
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Got the sending unit out. The tank looks real nice inside. Still bare metal. Here's a couple pics. Does that filter look dirty? I can't believe how small it is! Didn't have any trouble getting the ring off How do you remove the sock?. Name:  DSCN1442.jpg
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  13. #38
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    I think the sock just slides off if I remember correctly.

    You sure you didn't get some bad gas? Years ago, I came back from hot august nights with my 67 coupe. Filled up about 100 miles from home at a chevron. Got home no problem. Car sat for 2-3 days in the garage and would not run or idle for nothing yet it ran perfectly a few days before. I chased my tail for a couple weeks till I finally drained the tank and put some other fuel in it. Instantly the car idled but it idled rough because the plugs were now fowled from running that bad gas. I put new plugs in it and it purred like a kitten again.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  14. #39
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    The car did start running bad right after I put gas in it. Well the gas is out of it now. I will check the plugs like you said when I get it back together. I think it was a good idea anyway to check out the sender and condition of the tank. Can you tell by looking at that sock if it is dirty? The unit itself looks like new.

  15. #40
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironhorse2 View Post
    Can you tell by looking at that sock if it is dirty? The unit itself looks like new.
    That filter looks amazingly clean from that picture. In fact, that whole assembly looks amazing! I can't say I have ever seen one that clean, no rust or discoloration anywhere. I don't know if I would bother trying to change it as long as it looks as spotless in person as it does in that pic.

    It is possible that you wound up with some bad gas which would make all of this work seem pretty pointless, but it was probably needed to check the condition of the fuel system. Being 30 years old, it's time for an in depth investigation for safety's sake.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #41
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    2 more years and it will be 40 years old and I never looked at the fuel tank all these years. The car was 7 years old when I bought it. Could the duraspark unit cause the type of problem I had. I replaced it a few years ago so I don't know about that. Maybe time to check the carb out. I went through all of the important work about 3 years ago, including plugs. fuel pump, wires, distributor work, timing, compression check etc. I have had to replace that Duraspark box several times but it just usually shuts the car down when your driving it. So I don't know. Thanks for the feedback again.

  17. #42
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    In my experience, the new socks are white with yellow filter material inside. Yours looks original to me. I had the tank out of my 73 Pinto a few years back and the original sock looked like yours but it was brittle. Barely touching it, it would crumble. I had bought a repro for my 67 used that on the Pinto. Worked just fine.

    I would try some different fuel in your car first and see what happens before you dig into other things. Like I said, I chased my tail for almost two weeks before I drained the fuel out of my car. Good luck to you
    Last edited by Tigger; 04-21-2017 at 07:02 PM.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  18. #43
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    I ordered a new filter for the sending unit and I got this puny thing. The original is metal. Can anyone tell me if the correct one is available? I checked on other parts sources and they just show the puny white thing with a washer in the bag. Name:  DSCN1445.jpg
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  19. #44
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    I couldn't find a filter to match the one on my sender unit so I put gas in the old one and blew it out with an air hose a couple times. I could see that the pores in it weren't blocked. Put it back in the tank with new hoses etc. and it's running fine now. I also changed the filter up at the carb. I can't say for sure what the problem was. I'll see how she runs now.

  20. #45
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default update on new 79-80 fuel tank straps

    For all with 79-early 81 rusty fuel tank straps:

    Finally are available from NPD. In stock.
    33.00
    https://www.npdlink.com/product/stra.../207756/150055

    Picked mine up yesterday. Been waiting a long time.

    Repro, matches OEM design. Looks of quality construction.
    The exact same pass side nut and riveted tee bolt for the rear mount is pre installed.

    PS strap snapped Sunday at the rear. Front was rusted thru. Fuel filler pipe held up full tank.
    Got lucky.

  21. #46
    FEP Member SECESH's Avatar
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    The studs/bolts can be replaced with 3/8" carriage bolts. The square shank slips right into the slot and stops it rotating. I think 3/8" is what I used, it's been a while.
    The fuel these days seems to loosen up all the deposits in the tank and the first thing all this debris encounters is the strainer on the sender. If you do drop the tank take the opportunity to clean it out if needed.

  22. #47
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Carriage bolt idea good.
    I ground off the head of the rivet bolt.
    Used an air chisel to blast the threaded part out of the anti-spin tab thing that looks like a food chopper blade.
    If reusing bolt assy, use screwdriver, not finger, to wedge it from spinning, especially if using an air gun.
    A 3/8-16 x 1.25" grade 8 flange bolt fit fine into the 'spinner' hole.
    A straight open end wrench will fit inside the frame to hold the bolt. Tight quarters but works.
    Blow out rust and debris inside frame channel with air.
    There is a metal brace in the boxed frame crossmember to stop the bolt from pushing upward.
    Shop manual says 21-30# torque on the strap nut.

  23. #48
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Some of this has been covered, but I will throw my .02 in to help or muck up the process.

    A screwdriver will work for removing the retaining ring, but I prefer to us a brass drift. Larger surface area that allows you to get a better hit on with the hammer and less likely to damage the ring.

    You should be able to drop the sending unit without removing the fuel tank. The fuel tank is unique to the 79-81 models. It is a smaller @12 gallon tank compared to the 82-93 tanks that are 15 gallons +.

    This lock ring and O ring should work to replace yours https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9307A/1979-...-Ring-And-Seal I highly recommend installing at least a new O ring when removing the sending unit. Cheap insurance.

    This should be the correct fuel sending unit filter that needs to be replaced. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9275DFILTER...it-filter-8385
    Again cheap insurance IMHO.

    If you need to drop the entire you will most likely have to replace the mounting bolts and nuts as they tend to rust and corrode over time. They are basically nothing more than carriage bolts that you could pick up at the local Home Depot/Lowe's/Etc. Otherwise, this is essentially the same thing and should work just fine. https://www.npdlink.com/product/moun...ith/106722/402

    Best of Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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  24. #49
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default 79 tank work too

    Took my 79's tank off today. 3 hours. Took breaks.
    Multiple hand cleaning of grime, exhaust soot from before axle dump era.
    Why am i too cheap to use gloves, which have plenty, all kinds? Dunno.

    Fuel and tank removal:
    Set out two fire ext, garden hose to flush any spills.
    Pinched fuel supply hose with small vice grip.
    Removed fuel supply hose from chassis metal line. Hose was used to direct fuel into container.
    Stuck hose into container. Fuel self siphoned into container. All but about 1/2 gal (E on gauge).
    Drained 6 gal of fuel into 2.5 portable container 2x, Transfer to 5 gal container and repeated.

    Disconnected battery. Removed sender wire harness. Needed a tiny bit of twisting to break seal.

    Loosened rear t-bolts with impact, long hd screwdriver to keep T from spinning in cross member.
    15mm nuts too rusty to remove. Got them loose enough to hammer Tbolt out of cross member slot.
    Straps are scrap. One failed, other not too far behind. Rusted thru holes, thin spots.

    Removed fuel filler boot and filler neck screws inside fuel door to aid neck removal from tank.
    Allowed easy twist removal of neck from tank seal once tank was dropped.
    Plugged chassis fuel lines with rubber caps.
    Sliced fuel and vent line hoses for removal. Fuel lines are being replaced. Tank vent hose fine.

    Tank off.
    Pried up tank side lock ring tank tabs. Tank is scrap. Bought new tank and straps.
    Cyclo Breakaway soak on sender lock ring. Pick tool to clean grooves.
    Tapped lock ring off with hammer, large screwdriver. Was soaked with Breakaway, no spark.
    Silicone spray soaked vent assy grommet seal. Pried out by hand.
    Tank was near spotless inside. Amazing. No dirt. Figure used 17500 gal up to this point.
    Had to save sender and tank vent assy in case they were good. Are like new.
    Being reinstalled as is. Handle like a newborn. Carefully cleaned only outside of sending unit.

    Sender condition is same as pic. Same black filter, float, like new. Vent assy, grommet like new.
    Can clearly read p/n of sender. D9Zf-9275DB.
    Sender, pickup tube, filter, fuel return port from pump is all one assy.

    Trial fit of NPD M-9072-1A fuel filler grommet seal on tank and filler pipe fine.

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