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  1. #1
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default 1986 GT Daily Driver with electrical power problem - short at EEC-IV or after

    I am soliciting ideas on the best way to isolate an intermittent short in the power lead going to the fuel pump in my sons 1986 GT convertible that is his daily driver.

    The factory fusible link burned up recently. The ford dealer that replaced it said there were no shorts and the wire had just parished because it was AL before the fusible link and in close proximity to the battery. Seemed like BS at the time, still seems like BS now - don't get me started again on this dealer....

    When I redid their shoddy repair on the side of the road at 12 because it had left my son sit again I cut out the bad link and replaced it with a blow-glow style fuse holder and a 30 amp fuse. I soldered and shrink tubed everything I did. I put in a new Walbro fuel pump around this time because the stock pump was not sounding healthy and I thought maybe there was a short developing inside the pump itself.
    <edit - dealer was wrong - this circuit blowing is the EEC and ignition switch lead. Fuel pump had a self resetting breaker before the link>

    The car ran great for about a month with no problems after doing this stuff. Until Friday night, now it's popping fuses every 3 feet to three miles.

    This car obviously has a wiring problem somewhere in the harness now. It generally had been running/working just fine since we bought it last year and now out of the blue it has started leaving him sit due to no power to the fuel pump and a blown circuit - pretty randomly. Basically you hit a bump somewhere and at random it apparently shorts out and pops the fuse.

    I have not come across any places where there is evidence of a previous repair. Hard to say - I've had to redo 95% of everything the previous owner touched. He needs to stop working cars! Lol.

    I am thinking based upon wire routing there has to be some common areas that are among the first places to look. I am thinking I'd have random no start conditions due to a popped fuse overnight or a dead battery if the area grounding out is before the relay..... maybe....

    Anyone with clear pics of the fuel pump power wire routing - this would be hugely appreciated!!
    <edit - fuel circuit is fully inspected and repaired, other problems persist>

    i am currently thinking of temporarily replacing the wire relay to pump with a new wire to try to see if the short is before or after the relay. Maybe rinse/repeat battery to relay.

    ultimately I need to isolate this before other wires get messed up. I don't want to be the guy that does some crappy appearing wiring repair to an otherwise prestine condition car. But it needs to reliably run and not leave him sitting!!
    Last edited by erratic50; 04-10-2017 at 11:41 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I looked over the schematics. If I disconnect the fuel pump at the rear plug and leave the car off I can check relay to rear for a ground with an ohm meter.

    Anyone know the details of the pinouts on the rear plug?

  3. #3

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    Yep, sounds like the standard line of BS.

    The 30amp fuse mighta bought some time with one of the wires shorting out the whole time, but not 30amp's worth, and maybe making the short worse to it's present condition. Find out the maximum amperage (my ('86 3.8 convertible) replacement internal fuel pump's rated at less than or equal to 4amps, so I'm running a 5amp fuse) of the fuel pump in it, and a fuse that's ~125% more than that is standard practice and should suffice.

    I didn't get any pictures when I re-ran the trigger and full power wires back for the pump, but I know they (red (key), yellow (power) (and tan is ground, originally the ECU-controlled ground, to prime/run the pump)) come from behind the driver's side kick panel, down along the rocker, under the driver's seat to the fuel pump relay, back to the rocker panel, and then head back behind the side interior stuff and over the wheel tub and to the inertia switch.

    Pinouts? You mean at the pump's plug? There's power (pink) and ground (original has resistance).


    If it helps to visualize, here's my home-brew circuit, where I ran new red and yellow wires the same route the factory ran them. I just relocated the factory fuel pump relay from under the seat to back right beside the inertia switch:




    As for trouble spots, I know I had to make a repair (running lights didn't work due to loose/disconnected wires/connectors) at the large square white/beige plug connection behind the driver's side kick panel. I'm not certain but pretty sure the 3 (yellow, red, and tan) fuel pump wires go to and from that connector. You can't miss it, it serves to connect at least a dozen wires, and it's in a vertical orientation.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 03-26-2017 at 07:20 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply with detailed info!

    There was enough wire sticking out of the loom that I could see which wire was pink/black at the pump harness plug.

    FYI all - put the flat side of the connector down and the pink/black is the top pin when the flat side of the plug was down.

    Luck did me a huge favor and turned the intermittent short into a dead short on me when I was working on it. With the relay off there was no short. With the relay on the wire was shorted.

    This isolated the short to somewhere between the battery and the relay.

    We pulled the seat to take up the carpet and check the wires. The idiot previous owner never bothered to cut the carpet and pass the relay through the carpet so this was the first thing I fixed. The bracket was still there thankfully. The stock relay showed evidence of problems but was not the source of the short. Knowing it's supposed to be in open air to stay cool but has been under carpet too - we replaced it with a Duralast from autozone then installed a stud and nut to hold the bracket.

    Now for the STUPID IS AS STUPID DOES part of this needless broken car drama. The dumb ass previous owner also never bothered to get the correct clips to secure the kick panels. Instead the idiot ran screws through the kick panel and into the metal....... right through.... and into the cavity where the wiring harness is!!! The sharp drywall style screw worked its way through the wire bundle and right into the insulation on the wires.

    The wires to the relay were not routed the way they were from factory anymore. I will NEVER understand why anyone would change this- it works very well! The "new and improved" routing made it not just possible but likely your left foot will step on the harness and put tension on it. Guess where - right where the screw was into the insulation!

    So what was happening was every time my son would step move his foot just wrong pump wire had a chance of getting punctured by the screw. Eventually it did and once it started shorting it started happening quite regularly until the fusible link then later fuse kept popping constantly.

    A major tell that I had found the cause was the marks from arcing copper on steel. electrical arcing on the point of the non-factory installed screw - wouldn't you know!

    Fun wow! I guess some jobs to some people are not worth doing if it's not done half-assed and with the wrong parts. This seems to be the motto of some guys who work on cars. I absolutely can't believe the volume of problems I've fixed that were all caused by his lack of talent. Seriously - if you want to hold on kick panels with fasteners put studs in from the back and use nuts! Wow, so dumb!
    Last edited by erratic50; 04-10-2017 at 11:43 PM.

  5. #5

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    That's.... typical $hit, unfortunately... I feel your grief. Some previous owners and some mechanics should never touch vehicles, lol

    Good stuff you tracked it all down and made it safe.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Thanks!!

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    In true old car fashion there is apparently a second short *after* the relay somewhere too. It died in the school lot today and blows fuses the moment the relay is switched on. Time to dig in and see what else the previous owner knucklehead messed up on this poor ol ride. He cut out all sorts of stuff in the trunk to cram a giant enclosure with two 15's into the trunk when he had it. Hard to say what he screwed up but I'll find it eventually.

  8. #8

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    I bought a car with a switch wired straight from the fuel pump to the battery. The gas tank was hanging from wires and the tank straps were cut.

    I pulled the tank, replaced the tank straps (and the stripped bolts they cut the straps to get around) cut a fuel pump plug from a car at the junkyard and though all was good. I dropped the tank probably 10 times in 3 month, every time leaving me stranded.

    The last time, I couldn't find any more spliced or shorts and got really pissed. Ended up ripping all the wires out from the trunk and pulling all the wire loom and tape off. 6" from where I spliced my wires, there were about 6 spliced with just wire twisted together and no electrical tape between. Finally got it fixed then the trans lost all but 1st gear. Previous owner hot glued the tv cable to the throttle body and of course it came off while I was stuck in stop and go on the freeway for 10 miles.

    Don't even get me started on the rest of the car...
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Isolated the second short to between the under car connector and the relay. I did the same thing as you basically. Cut right beside the problem and leave it there to fight. I cut the pink/black where I thought I could easily splice in a new wire in the trunk and ran it up to the relay figuring the problem was in the rats nest by the rear shock. I hooked it all back up and blew the fuse immediately when I turned the key on - again. So at least now I know it's between the pump/gauge connector and the rear of the trunk. That's about 12" of wire.

    This is one has been a bit of an antichrist.

    I also found a bunch of unplugged wires in the trunk that I have no idea where they go. All I know is that the trunk release and power top have never worked the whole time we've owned it.

    Going to name that damn pony Charity - because it refuses to work - if it doesn't straighten up soon.

    Eleanor is way over used for a Mustang but this one has definitely started with me.

    As as far as leaving someone sit I've by far had more problems with this car since July of 2016 than I had with my 1986 GT hatchback that's now a 440K+ car -- in the entire 25 year period Ive owned it. This based upon the number of tow trucks and roadside repairs.

    Grr....
    Last edited by erratic50; 03-28-2017 at 02:47 AM.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Here's a problem so stupid I just have to share!

    The power lead to the ECM was also intermittent- had a auto reset breaker in it. The ECM looked like somebody submerged it and left it there for years. The ECM relay just hung there with the wires coming in from the top- not mounted to anything at all.

    I found that whoever messed with the antenna lead last didn't know what a drip loop is or why there is a V in the cable. The grommet was entirely shot.

    What was happening is water would run in antenna hole, down the coaxial to the relay leads then in the relay wires until they filled the relay then drip directly on the ECU from there.

    I corrected the antenna wire so the V and drop loop were correct. Next I pumped the hole in with silicone to seal it.

    Then I got a pocket full of water on the way to the parts store....

    I threw in the new relay along with the Speed Density computer from before I had converted my early production 86. This car is a very late model year and shared the soft VM1 tune found in the 87-88's. Wimpy!

    It never ceases to amaze me on how much different an 86 sounds with an early production year computer vs a late production year EEC-IV. Now my sons 86 sound exactly how mine always sounded - like hearing an old friend which made me smile.

    Seat of the pants it's the story Ive always known. They just plain run harder. His car runs about as well as mine always ran for me - the ECU swap picked up a considerable horsepower and torque. Fun!

    I mounted the relay under the dash where it belongs when I reassembled it.

    what a stupid problem!
    Last edited by erratic50; 04-01-2017 at 08:15 PM.

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    The saga continues. It made it 45 miles without incident using a 15 amp fuse instead of a fusible link where-as before it would go about 25 feet with a 30 amp, if it would do anything at all. The old water filled relay showed a partial short on all leads so we knew we were getting somewhere.

    As we were turning into the neighborhood it once again popped a 15 amp fuse. Lots of progress but definitely not a 100% fix.

    From driving these old cans for all these years my gut says ignition switch or a faulty ignition relay. I may just throw on those parts and inspect the wires next.

    If that doesn't cure it, it will be time to really dig in. Pull the orange/black at the Y split and separate it into two circuits and give each their own blow n glow fuse inside the car.

    Near impossible to know if the short on the 20 ga blue connection is at/after the ECU relay or on the ignition switch side. Whoever designed the wiring in this big long series like this needs to stop doing that. Directly related components, one fuse.... one relay, one fuse - that's the way to properly design stuff.

    Makes me appreciate how far vehicles have come from the mid 80's until today. Way fewer high current circuits pass through driver interface switches and way more use low current driver interface switches to control relays. It's proven far more reliable.

    When I fully redo my 1986 GT I may very-well redesign a good portion of the wiring so it uses relays and do much of what should have been done in the first place myself.

  12. #12

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    (It's my car that has been doing this)

    After blowing the 15A fuse on Monday I put in a 30A. Ran fine the rest of the day, and behaved perfectly yesterday. Today I drove it to school and it was fine, but after school I jumped on the interstate to go to work. I made it about 5 miles and the car started doing this on/off: it was like it was "bucking" (the car surging at low rpm/speed like they sometimes like to do), but A) about 10x harder, and B) at 70mph. Once I made it downtown I could barely let out on the clutch under 2000 rpm without it nearly stalling. Right as I pulled into the parking garage, the fuse finally blew. I would assume the exaggerated bucking is from intermittent shorting? Apparently less severe than when it ultimately blows the fuse?

    (This is driving me up a wall)

  13. #13

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    Double check and clean the ecm ground on the firewall near the battery. I had a baddly corroded wire that kept blowing fuses, but caused by the ground.

    Straight lengths of wire usually don't go bad. Focus on any connectors, bends spliced, body grommets ECT.

    Ohm out the wire. It's pretty annoying to do, but should help you pin point the problem. Get an overall omhs reading through as much wire as you can. Then mark about every foot and pierce the wire and check it. Once the ohms drop significantly instead of linearly, you may have pin pointed the problem. Either that or splice in a 15 amp fuse before the connections and go from there.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  14. #14

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    Double checked the ground (think I found the right one, right by the battery, basically above the headlight, right?), looked fine. I drove my other car to work today, after work I stopped by and picked my buddy up, him and I went and grabbed my Mustang. We drove around for about 20 minutes just fine, we took it home, and I changed the ignition switch. I got done with that, and we took it for a test-beat. (as I like to refer to it) the car was running great. I dropped him off at his place, and didn't make it half a block. The car started shuddering again. I made it about a mile up to the school. I stopped in the parking lot, and code scanned it (blowing 2 fuses in the mean time, a 30A and a 25A). I only got one code back, 42- meaning its running rich. I went to leave, blew a fuse, blew another one, put my last one in, and made it back (luckily). I've been fighting this problem for 2 months now and I just want it solved. I have a very dumb question: is there any short (or anything else for that matter) that could be affected by having a person in the passenger seat/ buckled up? Because the car was basically undrivable yesterday, ran absolutely perfectly when he was in it, and then went back to being an Antichrist immediately upon him getting out...

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Next step will be to pull the ECU relay power at the Y and add a fuse. I want to know which path is causing the fuse to blow. My concern is it's somewhere on the ECU side because that could be any one of SO many wires!

    I might have to dig into my spare ECU pin supply and rig up a pin with fuse inline. Not sure what I'll do for the male connector that goes in the harness after I pull an individual wire. At least then I can go pin to pin and see what causes it to blow....

  16. #16

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    Forgot to mention, on March 24 (when this issue resurfaced), my car was sitting there dead with the fuse blown, and I was turning the key on/off during troubleshooting. (Bear in mind It hasn't done this since), but several times the tach wigged out and bounced between 4K and 1.5k rpm with the car shut off, I shut the key off, turned it back on, and it immediately laid the tach over to 7000 rpm and left it there, again with the car off. I turned the key off and back on, and it resumed normal behavior, and I haven't seen this since. (No idea if any of you guys know what this would be?)

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Added a fuse at the Y. It's blowing it which means it's down line from the ECU. F!

    Ok -I've got to call a spade a spade. So many post all kinds of stuff until it's a daily driver and it's critical to fix it ASAP.

    Ive helped so many. Now when we are struggling for months with a daily driver - where is the team?
    Last edited by erratic50; 04-09-2017 at 03:12 AM.

  18. #18
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GliDeThuNDeR View Post
    Double checked the ground (think I found the right one, right by the battery, basically above the headlight, right?), looked fine. I drove my other car to work today, after work I stopped by and picked my buddy up, him and I went and grabbed my Mustang. We drove around for about 20 minutes just fine, we took it home, and I changed the ignition switch. I got done with that, and we took it for a test-beat. (as I like to refer to it) the car was running great. I dropped him off at his place, and didn't make it half a block. The car started shuddering again. I made it about a mile up to the school. I stopped in the parking lot, and code scanned it (blowing 2 fuses in the mean time, a 30A and a 25A). I only got one code back, 42- meaning its running rich. I went to leave, blew a fuse, blew another one, put my last one in, and made it back (luckily). I've been fighting this problem for 2 months now and I just want it solved. I have a very dumb question: is there any short (or anything else for that matter) that could be affected by having a person in the passenger seat/ buckled up? Because the car was basically undrivable yesterday, ran absolutely perfectly when he was in it, and then went back to being an Antichrist immediately upon him getting out...
    The ground it sounds like you checked, above the headlight is for the headlight circuit. There is one above each headlight bucket, on the rad support.
    The ecm ground is located on the drivers side fender apron, just behind the battery. From the factory, the negative battery lead had a pigtail off of it that the ecm ground plugged into. Your ecm ground wire should end up around here somewhere


    Try and locate it. It is important that this have a solid ground point, obviously.
    As far as the passenger goes, there should be no wiring under it by that seat from what I can remember. Just the fuel pump relay and seat belt wire under the drivers seat.

    I feel your pain in trying to find this. Electrical issues are the absolute worst on cars, especially since everything shares a common chassis ground. Even harder to help knowing that the previous owner did his own re routes and then fastened through them with drywall screws.
    I had a missing ground for weeks in mine, and I couldn't find it until I finally found a copy of the 1986 evtm manual.
    Do you guys have one?
    I tried to post the link from where I found it, but the page no longer exists.

    I also found this one helpful,
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng-ECC-EFI.gif

    Hopefully some of this is helpful, but it sounds like your dad knows these cars very well, so this may all be redundant info.
    Last edited by danco86; 04-09-2017 at 12:22 PM.
    Dan

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-GT-restomod


    1986 Mustang GT Cobra
    Lotsa stuff, lotsa work. Check my thread above.

    Daily drivers
    2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke crew 4X4
    2012 F-150 Ecoboost Screw FX4

  19. #19
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    This has become a bit confusing for me to follow considering I don't have a '86 to look at, just the EVTM and there is the potential for differences/errors in the EVTM and the actual wiring in the car. So the below is based solely off the EVTM.

    That said, the EVTM shows the Yellow wire for the FP relay being fed constant power from a 18ga Brown fusible link noted as "Link Q". The EVTM doesn't indicate any other circuits being powered from the fusible link so it's only connection would be to the FP relay. If a fuse connected in place of the fusible link near the battery blows than the issue is either before or after the relay going to the fuel pump. But, adding a fuse smaller than the one at "Link Q" to the Pink/Black wire coming out of the FP relay which feeds the FP it's switched power, would if blown, indicate an issue after the FP relay.

    The EVTM shows the Black/Orange wire feeding the EEC power relay as well as going directly into pin 1 on the EEC as getting it's constant power from EITHER (there is a discrepancy here) a 18ga Brown or 20ga Blue fusible link. Regardless of what gauge/color the link is, it's consistently noted as "Link W".

    This is where it gets a little hairy... When the EEC relay closes it outputs power to 5 circuits (well, 4 because the injectors are divided via splice for 4 each) which are the injectors, canister purge solenoid, the diode for the IAB motor, and then pin 57 on the EEC. Installing a fuse in place of "Link W" would protect the input to the EEC relay AND it's output. Then, if individual fuses were installed on the output of the EEC relay smaller than the one in place of of "Link W", those would protect the 5 circuits. Even if one fuse smaller than "Link W" were installed on the output of the EEC relay on the Orange/Black wire, protecting all of the circuits, one could determine if issues were before or after the EEC relay.

    The above comes from pages 10, 110, 111 and 111a of the EVTM.

    I hate to say this but it's going to come down to visually inspecting and ohming out these circuits to find the issues. Installing the fuses as described by you guys and above will help but it's still going to be a chore. Hopefully this helps some.

    If anyone would like a copy of the '86 EVTM PDF that I have, shoot me PM and we'll figure out together how to transfer it.
    Last edited by qikgts; 04-09-2017 at 01:59 PM.
    '85 GT

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I replaced the blue fusible link with a 30 amp blow/glow fuse. The blue link goes to a black/orange wire that I traced to the EEC relay. The wire has a connector crimped on that ties to pin 4 on the relay. This is where the wire Y splits and also heads towards the column. To isolate which path is causing the blown fuse I picked the connector out of the EEC relay then added a spade connector routed to a fuse holder then into the EEC relay connector on pin4. All completely reversible as this mod was made without hacking up the factory wires. I used a 15 amp fuse here.

    With a fuse added inline on the orange/black wire going to the EEC relay the fuse blows.

    as far as I can tell this eliminates anything to do with the ignition switch or coil or distributor or ignition module as the culprit. Somebody correct me if I am wrong because this stinks of ignition module and the ignition switch is new.

    We switched to a known good EEC from my 1986GT (VM1 tune - makes way more power that is easily felt and heard surprisingly) and a new EEC relay and we are getting the same results as we were getting with the wet EEC and water filled relay from the antenna wire problem we fixed.

    There have been a CRAPLOAD of problems that clearly would have bit us down the road but it sure has been painful to go through this.

    The latest round of battle I found the AC compressor clutch wires melted to the header. I though just sure it was fixed as this was the best smoking gun yet but no dice. Even with that harness removed it's still blowing fuses at the relay.

    I would appreciate help with a one by one identification of which pins on the EEC plug need amperage limit based testing. I am thinking I can rob an extra female connector from my MAF conversion parts stash and use it to add a fuse then connect the fuse to the factory pin with a male connector taken from a smoked EEC IV.

    Ideally I guess i would do this for every pin that might be the culprit. On the other hand I'm not looking to make a bunch of these as $10 per fuse holder and given all the time it takes to reclaim the other needed parts from a junk yard. I know I can make one - just not looking to make 8-10.

    Products wise, honestly I think it would be REALLY cool if someone built a plugin solution for this. Something that hooks right between the stock wires and the EEC and adds the needed blow/glow fuses. Would certainly save an EEC or two- sometimes they fry before the link pops.

    Hey - maybe even make one that also repins a SD harness for MAF and has the additional wires coming off of it that need to be ran out to the strut tower.

    Make another one for MAF converted cars. Seems like a really simple but sorely needed tool. I am not looking forward to ripping apart the EEC connector and picking pins simply so I can add a fuse.

    Help is greatly appreciated and badly needed. I'm SO sick of fighting with this car - I can't even begin to express how much

  21. #21
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    The item you describe making , is called a break out box.
    Goes between the EEC and the factory harness .
    Let's you test each circuit , without taking the harness apart.
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Anyone know if a breakout box is available for an 86 5.0L with speed density EFI?

    To clarify I've edited the title and made edits to my posts on the thread.
    Last edited by erratic50; 04-10-2017 at 11:52 PM.

  23. #23
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
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    Talking

    I hate to back things up, but the original problem with constant blowing, and upsizing fuses is on the fuel pump circuit, correct?

    Now the EEC relay you are fusing is another issue? So, for this one I'd say you are correct on it not being the ignition switch, and that the issue lies on the circuit(s) that the EEC relay feeds. The switch energizes the coil of the relay via the r/lg wire, thus closing the n/o contact inside. The blk/org wire is hot all times to one side of the relay it also y's off to pin 1 of the ecu.
    So the issue is for sure on the load side of the n/o contact of the relay. I know this is already known, I am just trying to get it straight. As qikgts states above that side of the relay splits into the following circuits.
    1. Straight to pin 57 of the ecu
    2. To pin 37 of the ecu
    3. To the compressor clutch control (which you found shorted to header)
    4. To the thermactor bypass solenoid and daisy chained to the diverter solenoid
    5. EGR control solenoid
    6. Power to through the inertia switch, directly to the coil of the fuel pump relay.
    7. IAC and diode
    8. Fuel injectors
    9. Canistor purge solenoid

    I don't think I've missed anything. 2 through 9 on that list, all originate from a common splice point. I would find the splice point, fuse each circuit at the splice point ( should only be 5 according to EVTM), and unfortunately does not give a very good description s to where this splice (s127) is. That'll hopefully blow the suspect circuit, and you have trouble shot to that point. I find it odd that the puel pump keeps blowing fuses, and the circuit that is common to energizing the fuel pump relay also blows fuses.
    Hopefully I am correct on summing up the issue to this point, and maybe some other members can provide some help based on it.
    Last edited by danco86; 04-10-2017 at 03:55 PM.
    Dan

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-GT-restomod


    1986 Mustang GT Cobra
    Lotsa stuff, lotsa work. Check my thread above.

    Daily drivers
    2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke crew 4X4
    2012 F-150 Ecoboost Screw FX4

  24. #24

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    Obviously a different cause, but sounds familiar in many regards: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ulty-EEC-Relay

  25. #25
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    Nice and thorough description danco86! I see I missed a few components powered by that splice... Ooops...

    Something is going to give here. This issue will get figured out eventually.
    Last edited by qikgts; 04-10-2017 at 10:43 PM.
    '85 GT

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