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  1. #1

    Default Moog front control arm bushings

    I'm getting ready to order front suspension parts and am a little confused about the control arm bushings. Moog has a standard replacement K8289 and a heavy duty K8277. Their web site only shows the K8289 as a replacement for my 1984 LTD LX, although other sites list these two bushings as interchangeable. Moog lists the dimensions for the K8277 bushings but not for the K8289 bushings. Attempting to cross reference the part numbers with other manufacturers has only added to the confusion.

    Are the K8289 and K8277 bushings interchangeable?

  2. #2

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    For what it's worth it got the whole arm, there are obvious benefits to this. I got the moog ones, although they are now made in China. $80ish on rock auto

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member
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    What dimensions are you seeing for the K8277?

    If you look here they have the K8277 and K8289 listed with dimensions. They look slightly different in size. Keep in mind this document is 18 years old.
    www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Moog_rubber_bushing_cross_reference.pdf


    A B C D E
    K8277 3.031 0.625 1.813 1.844 2.234
    K8277 3.019 0.625 1.922 1.969 2.375

    K8289 3.047 0.641 1.859 1.891 2.250

    A is the inner sleeve length. B is the inner sleeve ID. C is outer shell smaller OD. D is the outer shell larger OD. E is the length of the outer shell. I am not sure why they have two different sets of dimensions listed for the K8277.

    Oh I see. The K8277 is the front and rear lower bushing set (as is the K8289). That would explain the two sets of dimensions for the K8277, but raises the question why is there only one set of dimensions for the K8289?
    Last edited by KevinVarnes; 03-24-2017 at 12:39 AM.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I replaced my bushings and balljoints myself. If I had it to do again, I would order A arms with new balljoints and bushings. They are not horribly hard but very time consuming by the time you press out the balljoints and press in the new ones and tack them with a welder, fight with bushings with a torch or a sawzall, etc.

    By the time you knock down all the rust and build the metal up in the spring cups where they tend to rust then prime and paint it's just not worth it.. just not productive.

    i won't redo a arms again.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinVarnes View Post
    What dimensions are you seeing for the K8277?

    If you look here they have the K8277 and K8289 listed with dimensions. They look slightly different in size. Keep in mind this document is 18 years old.
    www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Moog_rubber_bushing_cross_reference.pdf


    A B C D E
    K8277 3.031 0.625 1.813 1.844 2.234
    K8277 3.019 0.625 1.922 1.969 2.375

    K8289 3.047 0.641 1.859 1.891 2.250

    A is the inner sleeve length. B is the inner sleeve ID. C is outer shell smaller OD. D is the outer shell larger OD. E is the length of the outer shell. I am not sure why they have two different sets of dimensions listed for the K8277.

    Oh I see. The K8277 is the front and rear lower bushing set (as is the K8289). That would explain the two sets of dimensions for the K8277, but raises the question why is there only one set of dimensions for the K8289?
    That is where I found the dimensions for the K8277 bushings. I assumed the "K8289" was a typo since the numbers didn't really match anything. The K8277 numbers look more-or-less the same as the Raybestos numbers for the cross referenced parts (565-1081, 565-1082) found here; http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...have-me-bushed

    At this point, I think I'll get both sets so I can compare them side-by-side, then take back the ones I don't use.

    I'd like to swap A-arms but money is tight so it's a choice of cheap A-arms or quality Moog parts plus a couple hours time. I have a big-ass shop press so it shouldn't be too bad of a job.

  6. #6
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    Be sure to post up what you find and what if any difference you notice with the HD versus the regular bushings.

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    I took a map gas torch and heated the casing of the bushing. The rubber slide right out. I reused my sleeves. The balljoints are a piece of cake with the Autozone balljoint press. Once everything is removed, sandblast them or wirewheel them and paint. I didn't think this project was that bad.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrriggs View Post
    That is where I found the dimensions for the K8277 bushings. I assumed the "K8289" was a typo since the numbers didn't really match anything. The K8277 numbers look more-or-less the same as the Raybestos numbers for the cross referenced parts (565-1081, 565-1082) found here; http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...have-me-bushed

    At this point, I think I'll get both sets so I can compare them side-by-side, then take back the ones I don't use.

    I'd like to swap A-arms but money is tight so it's a choice of cheap A-arms or quality Moog parts plus a couple hours time. I have a big-ass shop press so it shouldn't be too bad of a job.
    I doubt you would actually notice much difference once the bushings are installed. I suppose the Rubber material could be less soft, so it doesn't compress as much, but you could go with the Polyurethane bushing which work very well, if you use rubber isolators on the coil springs. I find using the rubber isolators on the coil springs and the polyurethane control bushings doesn't cause the "Poly" noise, or binding issues.
    The Moog Ball Joints seems to be a good quality part, compared to the cheaper brands.
    1985 Ford LTD LX
    1989 Mustang 5.0 Coupe
    1994 Ford F150 Lightning

  9. #9

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    The parts store didn't have the K8277 bushings in their warehouse but I did get the K8289 and the measurements are different than what's listed for the K8277.

    Listed dimensions;
    A B C D E
    K8277 3.031 0.625 1.813 1.844 2.234
    K8277 3.019 0.625 1.922 1.969 2.375

    K8289 3.047 0.641 1.859 1.891 2.250

    Measured dimensions;
    K8289 3.012 0.630 1.851 1.895 2.250
    K8289 3.188 0.630 1.974 2.010 2.270

  10. #10

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    After spending a couple hours making all the necessary spacers and drivers, pressing out the old bushings and pressing in the new ones was remarkably quick and easy.

    I'm a little disappointed with the Moog K8289 bushings. They were made in Mexico [all the other Moog parts I got were made in USA] and they don't have the "splines" on the ends of the inner tubes. Oh well, I'm sure they will work better than the crusty old bushings that came out of the car.

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member
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    Interesting. Thank you for posting up the data.

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