MSD Distributor Ready to run.

[dtmilsap]

Couple of questions about MSD Distributors, gathering info for my engine build.

I am looking for opinons on MSD Ready to run distributor. Has anyone used this distributor before and did you have any problems with it. if so what were the problems.

Would I be better off going with "regular distributor and ignition box" set up?

What is involed in hooking up stock tach.

Car is 86 Capri EFI going to carb, engine is 363 stroker.

[kpippin1986]

From all the information I've gathered the stock duraspark distributor is more than adequate. But I haven't heard of anyone having problems with a Msd distributor as long as it doesn't have the cast iron gear. You'll want one with a steel gear

[dtmilsap]

From all the information I've gathered the stock duraspark distributor is more than adequate. But I haven't heard of anyone having problems with a Msd distributor as long as it doesn't have the cast iron gear. You'll want one with a steel gear

Then I would need duraspark distributor from a 85 with steel gear.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[4eyedfoxdriver]

I'm going to be running a MSD box ,with my Duraspark for 85, for the rev limiter, which is also an option. I was seriously considering one on the Ready to runs also, though. They look pretty sweet. A Tach adapter will be necessary with the MSD stuff.

[4eyedfoxdriver]

Advance has 25% off over 250, making the ready to run $345. I had to pull the trigger for that price.

[Walking-Tall]

Hilarious.

[4eyedfoxdriver]

Hilarious.

Care to elaborate?

[Mgino757]

Well, you could tune the current fuel injection system to run the 363 stroker, which would be the cheapest and easiest running setup...

[Walking-Tall]

Care to elaborate?

No offense. I just can't believe what some things cost nowadays.

[4eyedfoxdriver]

Well for me, my last motor did this


My new motor is getting a rev limiter, no matter what the cost.

When I built that motor I ordered in 2 different rebuilt distributor for an 85, because no body local stocks them, and they were both junk, to much play in one the other the gear was crooked. So I ended up getting a steel gear for the one I had, but it got damaged in the motor blowing. So being that I want a rev limiter and need a new distributor I could get a box for $250 and spend another $75 on a distributor that may or may not be good. Have a ugly box and extra wires under the hood. Or buy the Ready to run Distributor with built in rev limiter, for roughly the same price. Have a lot less mess under the hood, and actually leave the duraspark stuff installed, just in case.

[Mgino757]

I think that's where driver mod with a well trained right foot comes in to play. How high did you spin it to get that carnage?

I know you said you built it, but what was the build?

[xctasy]

me (xctasy)<-----Buttinski....Had read 'bout it on 07-02-2016 in another forum.....Fordstrokers broken Scat 347 crank, Why...?


What can we say. It was sure a favorite of mine, and there you go. You were quiet about that dude, although there were lots of other pictures around, Jerry P had a crank let go http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...sappointed-331


....glad you got the white Capri as a spring back, but the engine builder does exceptional work.


But its still a stock block, and a fairly stock crank. 2002, Ford Australia did over 300 hardcore 342's with similar internals to way over 335 hp net, and they reved to 6 grand easy, and had a great reliabity record.


When it happens, it sux's big time.


This:-

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...7-dyno-results

Flat top pistons, 56cc 190 11r heads. Custom cam with .571 lift, carbed car running a FMS RPM Performer intake with a little work, QF 650 MS, 1 5/8 shorty headers , 2.5 OR H-pipe, Dynomax out the back . Dual friction clutch, through a A5 and 3.55 gears. 4 and a half months and an upgrade to an A5 later. Finally made it to the Dyno. Of course it's a "heartbreak" dyno. 349.5 hp at 5700rpm, where it was starting to flatten out. 84* and 85% humidity, also not great for #'s. So I'm not unhappy at all. The torque curve is incredible for an out of the box carb and 34* of timing, I felt. Guys at the shop were shocked out of a such stock appearing setup.




This Dyno is supposed to be around 15% lower than a Dynojet. There was a bunch of pissed people there. A GT40p headed 90 GT went before me, 306, Trick flow intake, stage 2 cam, put down 225 and 250tq. Guy after me in a 2015 gt ,intake and exhaust with tune, put down 356, he was looking for 400. Another 2015 GT, stock with a catback system, put down 340...they're showing 380 on a dynojet.

If someone could run some #'s on what a calculator says it should make I'd be interested. Can supply whatever specs needed.

[4eyedfoxdriver]

It was a Fordstrokers 347 with 11r 190 heads, custom cam, 650 carb ect. It wasn't spun to high, max power at 5700, but when you lose traction with something like that it slips past 6k pretty easy. I really tried to limit the power to a safe range, but it didn't work. When it let go it was only at about 4000rpm under 2/3 load. So who knows what damage happened when to cause this.

My current motor I'm having built is just a 302 with the same 11r heads and a new Buddy Rawls custom cam. It should make max power around 6k, so I want to make sure to keep it under about 6200, while being able to rev it there.


Yep that's me. Lesson learned. Anyone want to buy some slightly used 347 parts ?

BTW the 347 ran good , but did not compare to the 393 , which is now for sale before I get in trouble.

[erratic50]

xctsay - that pic shows vacuum advance line is MIA.....

15% more is 401.925.

If you want more power, run some race fuel for safety and crank up the timing.

Or for about 12% more power on a budget you could always head the "corn field" route and get yourself some E85 and a fuel system to support it.

[4eyedfoxdriver]

Yeah I didn't run any vacuum advance.

[xctasy]

441.8 hp@ 5700 rpm at the flywheel by my reconing. SAE Net... they calibrate the output back to the temp and altitude density. See small red font below...

Now back to ignition...a soft limit rev limiter or traction control is probably needed. Cranes Optic or MSD's are whats needed to avoid the indiscreet traction loss.


Down here, all our EECIV and EECV Windsor Small block Fords were purposely run with Fords post A9L torque reduction algorithim, and fly by wire, it shut down the peak power by going into a safer mode to protect the transmission. All our Ford cars (XR6 I6 turbos, XR8 and Ghia/ G6T got traction control in the Quad Mod Era from NoughtyThree onwards. Turbo I6's too. But you could turn it off. The first years of IRS, added weight, killed proper live axle style lauch stabilty, even Control Blade IRS. Jag XK-E and all Corvette and Commodore/ 2004-2008 GTO owners know the issues IRS causes, driveline shunt, and Hummer style brake jerk on starts and stops.


Making everything 3950 pound heavy also helped kill off 321 to 537 factory hp.

There isn't a better lauching factory car than a live axle four bar Fox. Maybee the old ZF 5 speed 1973-1988 De Dion axle Aston Martin AM V8 Vantage, but they break the odd halfshaft while doing factory 12's, 13's or low 14's.


So it seams to me some Ricer Soft Limit ignition stratergy is where you should go. Honda guys use it to control boost in the internediate gears when they have 600 hp at the flywheel. Turn it off when you race on the strip....


David Vizard described how to use that back in 1983 (had a Eureka moment in the bath), its for turbo cars. If your not going to use four channel ABS for traction control, then just use a soft limi box, and have the servo control by your gearstick.


Because we don't race chassis dynos, we race 1/8 and 1/4 miles, the output on a chassis dyno will differ from the idealised 1/4 mile Morso calculator, or the Wallace Racing or whatever on-line formulae you use. I use RWHP X 1.264 for T5's, 8.8" axles and whatever tires you have. Ex Sam Blumstein, C.0.M.E Racing in Oz did a raft of work getting that back from a gizzillion dyno tests in the 90's.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-Article/page2

A 400 hp Coyote engine makes 480 on a dyno with the same front drive.

Using Mustang Dynos generic conversion ( wheel hp/ .8 ) 300 whp is 375 crank hp net.

the post #33 after this explains why.

Or in another way (because I 'd rather conquer by multiplication than divide) On an manual gearbox car, rwhp x 1.25 is net installed flywheel hp using a Mustang Dyno.


Although other dynos yield other figures, SAE calibration checks each other out. Thats what a lb-ft and a Newtonian Horse power is. It matters not a jot if one dyno is 15% different, as they all measure calibrated lb-ft and use the 5252 constant to define power. Only issues are what SAE net or DIN net or DIN PS correction your operator uses.


The only real B-I-G variance is dynos using a counterweight, and this influences the counterweight to automatic transmission factor, which can mean the net at flywheel figure verses the rwhp can be 1.41 to 1.63 times a rwhp reading.

I've got 41 years of Australian figures to prove it, and about 58 years of US auto industry data.


Engine dyno's, the two kinds of certified SAE net, DIN net. But most engines outside Detriots dyno cells are run as SAE Gross with an SAE Net correction.