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  1. #1

    Default SROD 4spd to T5 wiring

    What do I need to do so I can connect the old SROD wiring to a T5 in a 1982 GT?

  2. #2

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    Depends on if you want a neutral safety switch and reverse lights or not. It's only like 4 wires.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  3. #3

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    I would like reverse lights, and the plug that is there from the SROD is a two prong plug. I have a pigtail for the T5 reverse lights, but am unsure if I just splice into the two wired plug that's there.

  4. #4

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    When I did my and to t-5 swap, I cut off the 4 prong plug, stuck 12v till I saw which two lit up the reverse lights and spliced it in to the t- 5 connector, which was a two prong plug. You might be able to just clip the existing reverse light right onto the t- 5.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    When I did my and to t-5 swap, I cut off the 4 prong plug, stuck 12v till I saw which two lit up the reverse lights and spliced it in to the t- 5 connector, which was a two prong plug. You might be able to just clip the existing reverse light right onto the t- 5.
    Hi, haystyack. Noob here. I have an 82 Capri. I finally got it smogged on friday and tommorow is DMV time and it should be all legal and stuff. I've been looking for info on the same trans swap and not finding much until I got here, so I'll be around. I also noticed that you're from W.V UT. That's where my dad lives and I picked this car up from his house last may. It's got a nice 351w, but the stock 4 spd. He told me that if I abuse at all the stocker won't hold up, so...
    Anyway, ya never know, you may have seen this car around. Not alot of capris out there. T-tops especially.The 2nd pic is what it looked like some years ago. First pic is how it looks now
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  6. #6

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    Where are you from?

    I actually live in grantsville now, never updated it. I used an sn- 95 t- 5 when I did my swap. The 99- 04's behind the 3.8 are cheap and good for around 300ftlbs. I also used a truck flywheel.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Where are you from?

    I actually live in grantsville now, never updated it. I used an sn- 95 t- 5 when I did my swap. The 99- 04's behind the 3.8 are cheap and good for around 300ftlbs. I also used a truck flywheel.
    I'm in N. CA.
    So, you're saying that the 5 spd behind a v-6 would work for me? I'm not looking (at least for a while) to get any more hp from the 351 as it currently has only 5k miles on it. I'm gonna start looking for a trans. How much is involved in swapping? I'm very mechanically inclined. Some would say gifted. Idk.
    Also I think the rear main seal on the engine is leaking. I've changed those in s.b chevy's years ago, but never on a Ford. is it pretty much the same? Take off the pan, etc......? Looking at it, I don't think taking the pan off will be that easy. Lift the motor, or drop the K member?

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    The seal is easy to fix. If the engine was originally out of a truck or Panther LTD/ Crown Vic/Grand Marquis, manual gearbox thrust loads often wear out the neoprene seal. Simple dropping of the trans and bellhousing allows a replacement split or 360 degree seal to be put in. The good mechanics know to use the two piece seal, and put a dollip of RTV on it, and clock the seal a tad. If its an old rope seal, there is a 1/8" clevis pin to remove, and a two or one piece seal can be added.


    Re your existing clutch/bellhousing, your SROD bellhousing is worth money. Tremec copied it, and they can take T56 's without any modification at all.


    To fit a T5 where an SROD bellhousing is requires either a MDL TopLoader to T5 adaptor


    (Down here, we use a 7.36" T5 input shaft, and a Rod Shop TopLoader to T5 adaptor

    http://www.rodshop.com.au/ap021b-b-w...tor-plate.html)


    or a redrill and opening up of the existing bellhousing.


    1979-1983 SROD's , six cylinder or V8, all of 'em had the ancient 1965-1973 Top Loader bolt pattern, and there is room to drill and fill, and expand the spigot hole to 4.91" to allow a later model V6 T5 fit.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nversion-PIC-s

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    The seal is easy to fix. If the engine was originally out of a truck or Panther LTD/ Crown Vic/Grand Marquis, manual gearbox thrust loads often wear out the neoprene seal. Simple dropping of the trans and bellhousing allows a replacement split or 360 degree seal to be put in. The good mechanics know to use the two piece seal, and put a dollip of RTV on it, and clock the seal a tad. If its an old rope seal, there is a 1/8" clevis pin to remove, and a two or one piece seal can be added.




    Re your existing clutch/bellhousing, your SROD bellhousing is worth money. Tremec copied it, and they can take T56 's without any modification at all.


    To fit a T5 where an SROD bellhousing is requires either a MDL TopLoader to T5 adaptor


    (Down here, we use a 7.36" T5 input shaft, and a Rod Shop TopLoader to T5 adaptor

    http://www.rodshop.com.au/ap021b-b-w...tor-plate.html)


    or a redrill and opening up of the existing bellhousing.


    1979-1983 SROD's , six cylinder or V8, all of 'em had the ancient 1965-1973 Top Loader bolt pattern, and there is room to drill and fill, and expand the spigot hole to 4.91" to allow a later model V6 T5 fit.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nversion-PIC-s
    So, you're saying that I need to drop the trans to fix the oil leak? That don't sound too awful tough. What's SROD? And I can put a t56 w/o any mods? Those seem to me that they're for g.m stuff and pretty pricey. I can probably get a t5 and adapter for 1/3 the money of a t56. Idk, man, this is pretty new stuff to me. But, that's why I'm here and value info like you gave me. Thank you

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
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    Yup, trans drop to fix an engine seal leak. If its a trans leak, whole other matter.

    You'll be fine anyway.


    A T5 is all anyone ever needs, if you look after it, it'll last a long time. If your ham fisted and like almostclutchless 'Dynamite Shifting" like a motor cycle,



    or, you know, power shifting like Vette owners do....you might have to consider other options.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by T-topCapri View Post
    I'm in N. CA.
    So, you're saying that the 5 spd behind a v-6 would work for me? I'm not looking (at least for a while) to get any more hp from the 351 as it currently has only 5k miles on it. I'm gonna start looking for a trans. How much is involved in swapping? I'm very mechanically inclined. Some would say gifted. Idk.
    Also I think the rear main seal on the engine is leaking. I've changed those in s.b chevy's years ago, but never on a Ford. is it pretty much the same? Take off the pan, etc......? Looking at it, I don't think taking the pan off will be that easy. Lift the motor, or drop the K member?
    Basically a 94- 98 will swap right over but is weaker. Rated at 265ftlbs.

    The 99- 04 is better, 300ftlbs. but doesn't bolt in to the existing cross member and has no provisions for a mechanical Speedo. One supposedly can be added. I didn't look into this since my car used a digital Speedo. A fox auto trans member will bolt right up to this trans. These also have no nss.

    Either one requires a 164t flywheel and larger 11" clutch vs the stang 157t and 10.5". I used one for a 302 f- 150. F- 150 flywheel is also standard thread for the pressure plate, mustang one is metric. You could use the same for a 351' just make sure the balance matches the motor. The f- 150 also has a different starter. Mustang is 3/4" offset, f- 150 is 3/8". You may be able to just use a 94 up v- 6 clutch/flywheel' as these were the 28oz imballance with 164t and 11" clutch, not sure if the flwheel bolt pattern is the same as the 351 though. The clutch fork pokes down at more of a 7 or 8 o'clock position instead of a 9 o'clock offset. It cleared my factory y pipe fine, but you will have to check it. Use any 87- 93 fox clutch cable. I used a cheap parts store one and had no issues.

    Pretty much it wouldn't be much harder then swapping a clutch imho, but it depends on how you do it. My total auto to stick conversion cost me $400 including trans when I did it a few years back. It would be much cheaper to go srod to sn- 95 since you don't need new pedals, cut a hole in the floor, add a center console, shifter boot ECT. I got the trans for $150 off Craigslist but u pull it yards are full of 94- 04's for $75- 150 around my parts.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

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