What’s the best plan of attack for the three rubber side moldings?any tips to get these perfectly lined up?
I start with the door molding myself. Best if you have an extra pair of hands to get it done. Hold the door molding in place and align to the door and the indention in the door. Also verify that you are centered on the door. Depending on the molding (OEM, Repro, Restored) you may or may not cover the entire door length. Most of the time you will not. So you want to make sure to even up the gaps side to side, but also make sure the molding is not too far forward as that can cause it to rub or catch when opening the door. Once you are happy with the placement, I use 1.5" or 2" masking tape across the top of the molding to temporarily hold it in place. Then I step back and look at everything to make sure I am happy with the placement and fit. Make adjustments as needed until you are satisfied. Once you are ready to actual set the molding, I use the tape as a hinge, so make sure the tape is pressed down really well on both the body and the molding. Then I lift the molding up to expose the double sided tape, remove the plastic liners. Now carefully lower the molding into place making sure to keep it level and aligned as before. Now carefully press the molding into the door. I work from the middle to either end until fully seated. I also like to use a large laminate roller to really apply solid pressure to the molding and tape to make sure I get the tape to seat and make sure ther are no gaps. You can use your hand to do the same, the roller is just easier and allows more pressure. Remove the masking tape and enjoy your work.
Repeat for the two smaller moldings on either side of door again just make sure to watch the front one for clearance when opening the door so the moldings don't catch or rub. Always step back to verify that the moldings appear straight, level, and aligned before you finally attach them. Best of Luck!
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!
Current Capris:
1982 Capri Roller
1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops
I hadn’t seen the picture such a pain in the car and it turned out great. Congrats.
1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
1986 SVO Mustang - 1C
Makes sense! Hoping to have all the moldings done by next week
got a few hours of work in on the gt yesterday.still working on getting the trim all squared away.wasnt real impressed with the Daniel carpenter body molding kit I had bought.drivers door molding was trimmed at angle on the rear of the door,and drivers side (behind front wheel)rubber molding had double sided tape that wasn't even sticky.ive neer been a fan of anything aftermarket.so I spent a lot of extra time peeling and razor blading the tape off,cleaning them,and using some good 3m tape in place of the junk that was on there.got the mirrors painted and mounted back up.i used ypur tips wraith
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Last edited by kfxmatt; 04-15-2018 at 05:51 PM.
Looks Great! Did you have to paint the light gray GT in the body side trim behind the door or did it come that way? Reason I ask is I'm going to repaint my trim and my GT gray paint is flaking off as well.
Thanks
Brant
Thanks.no,i masked off the gt and painted the charcoal.cleaned up the silver part and left it as is.they do make these.Ihttps://www.googleadservices.com/pag...Qwg8IPA&adurl=
Thanks for the info. I destroyed mine with the pressure washer.
Brant
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