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  1. #101

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    I rebuilt a 4160 and installed it and that fixed the runability issue. It runs nicely out of a fuel can, but I didn't trust the tank or lines. I took the tank out yesterday to have it cleaned and sealed.

    I found another crack on the passenger floor pan that is smaller. I think it'll be alright to be welded up. The interior can go back together after that.

    Dad has a set of mesh wheels that I'm strongly considering buying tires for and putting on this car. It would be some nice visual motivation for the project.

    Need to either find a throttle cable bracket or make one that works with a F4B intake.

    Nice to work on a Fox again. I ought to take some pictures when I work on it next.

  2. #102

  3. #103
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    wow, im glad I found this build looks good so far
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  4. #104

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    Fuel system has all been replaced. Tank cleaned, steel lines blown out and all rubber sections replaced.

    I installed an RPM Air Gap without knowing that the throttle bracket mounting bosses need to be staggered in order to have the throttle cable line up. I know for a fact that I have a Stealth intake with the right mounting bosses and several Ford intakes, but I hoping to find a way to make the RPM Air Gap work. If anyone has this intake, please post a picture of how you made your throttle cable work. I'm not married to the RPM Air Gap, but I also don't particularly want to do another intake swap.

    Haven't gotten it to run yet after installing the intake. It'll roughly start and run poorly for maybe two seconds before dying. I'm hoping that I just don't have enough fuel in the tank and it's just running off accelerator pump shot. I had the distributor out several times and I am certain that I'm timed on the right stroke on cylinder #1 with the rotor pointed at #1 on the cap. Shouldn't be this hard for me to get it to run, so fingers crossed on it being too low on fuel. The cam is a non-HO firing order, but that shouldn't affect the timing marks. I can see the #1 piston come up and make compression in line with the 0* marker on the balancer and pointer.

    I'm going to try to get creative with the fueling to the carburetor. I hate the 4160 style fuel inlet with the transfer tube between bowls. I'm strongly considering purchasing a Summit Racing brand carburetor as it appears to be a modernized version of the Autolite 4100 with dual fuel inlet... and I am a big fan of the Autolite carburetors. I purchased aluminum tubing, a hand held tubing bender and a handheld flaring tool to start experimenting with hard line. I'm very picky and just like the 4160 fuel inlet, I also hate the look of rubber fuel hose draped across an engine. The plan is to mount my fuel pressure regulator to the back of the intake and run hard line to it from the fuel pump and then tie the regulator into a feed log from the Summit carburetor that I'm saving for.

    Mike

  5. #105

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    Got the GT running and idling nicely today. Added more fuel and played with the ignition timing and it pretty much lit right off.

    Still waiting to test drive, not sure what to do about the throttle bracket. Anyone with a carburetor and a RPM Air Gap please post a picture of your throttle bracket set up.

  6. #106

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    Running & driving. No real problems with it. Not quite sure what to do now!

  7. #107
    FEP Super Member Bryan Knebworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99GTMichael View Post


    Running & driving. No real problems with it. Not quite sure what to do now!
    Buff that paint

  8. #108
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Just found this build thread, really enjoying it. Keep up the work! Always liked the 83-84 GT's
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  9. #109

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    Today's update. Oil change and front swaybar links replaced. Brakes are fairly soft but do stop fine so brake fluid flush is on the agenda before heading back to school.

    The radiator in this car appears to be fairly clogged around the tubes I can see on the inside. It has an auto-parts store replacement and it runs on the "R" in "NORM". What do you folks do as far as cooling system upgrades go? I see no reason to spend money having a plastic tank radiator cleaned so I'm considering upgrading to an aftermarket aluminum radiator. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I shouldn't be able to spin the clutch fan by hand when shut off and heat soaked?

    Going to try a Ford Motorsport ignition box I have because I'd like to have a rev-limiter. Fingers crossed it will work, because I'm not particularity inclined to buy an MSD box and distributor.

  10. #110

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    Forgot to say... I ordered a set of MM subframe connectors. I figure since the floor has another crack that needs to be welded up, may as well have subframe connectors welded on. Can't be a bad idea especially considering this is a sunroof car and it has already torn itself up!

  11. #111
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Nice car. Definitely connect the subframes. Mm all the way

    Get out good compound and go to town - she will shine

  12. #112
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    I can still turn my fan when hot, it just has more resistance.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  13. #113

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    Long overdue pictures of a not very photogenic car. The 14" wagon wheels are killing me. Dad has sanctioned using a set of silver Pony wheels... but I might have to put tires on the Enkei mesh wheels instead.

    Ford Motorsport ignition and rev limiter works great. I bought the 5100-5900 RPM chip set, figuring a stock head '83 flat tappet will be out of steam by 5900. I noticed in a set of instructions that another user on here posted that the red wire on the FMS harness required 12v keyed. This was for the C301 box and I have the A301 box. On my harness, I already have 12v on the white wire from the vehicle harness side that turns into the red wire on the FMS harness so I guess I don't need to do anything about that?

    Also, if anyone is familiar with the fuel line/parking brake line fasteners... what would you call it? It is the coarse pointed threaded fastener with flanged hex head. Is this considered a bolt or a screw? I need to secure the fuel lines back up to the body.






  14. #114

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    My 83 GT had a solid hood. It was an earlier car.
    1980 Capri RS
    1986 Mustang GT
    1991 Mustang GT

  15. #115

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    Little progress update for today and some plans/thoughts for the future.

    1. Installed a 140 mph speedometer. I like the divisions on the 140 more and it looks nice in the cluster.
    2. New spark plugs. Ones in the motor were pretty carbon fouled and old. We'll see what the tune-up looks like on them after my carburetor and ignition changes. I feel like I've got it pretty close, fires right up and idles well. 15" of vacuum at idle at about 750 on the factory tach and ~9* initial and 32* total. I think it runs pretty hard for what it is.

    I noticed that the clutch quadrant is still plastic, I'd like to change that out with an aluminum one. I have the Maximum Motorsports adjuster, cable and quadrant in my '99 GT... but I've never been especially thrilled with it. I've struggled with the clutch adjustment on that car. I am very pleased with how the clutch operates currently on the '83 so I'll be thinking about what I want to do with that.

    I'm a sucker for longtube headers and I'd really like to put some on this car. What all has everyone found to be a good header for the early Fox with a manual transmission? (I'll need to swap to a later style transmission mount of course). I have Hedman headers on my 331 in the Torino and Dad has Hooker on the 302 in his Fastback. Looks like a lot of the Mustang vendors sell BBK and Mac products... are they any good?

    I'm dying to ditch the A/C on this car. What I want to do is to get a setup from a factory non A/C car that mounts the P/S pump up high. This looks way better than an A/C delete pulley. The smog pump has already been deleted with a delete pulley. I'm going to post a wanted ad for factory non A/C P/S bracketry... let me know if you have one you'd be willing to sell!

    I recently acquired a GT40P Explorer from a good friend of mine. I need to yank that engine out and something with it. I also have an E7 headed Mustang longblock that isn't doing anything currently. My best bet would be to put the P heads on the E7 shortblock that has a Trickflow .221/.225 @ .050" .499/510 lift cam. I'd hope that between an E7 shortblock, this cam, GT40P heads, RPM Air Gap manifold, longtubes, FMS ignition w/ MSD coil and a carburetor better than a 4160 that I could make 300 to the tire. To me, that sounds just about perfect for a street 302.

    Of course, this car still sadly has a 7.5" axle. The gears are LONG! 8.8" would be a huge upgrade and is definitely being planned for. I don't have an 8.8" or a lead on one so I'll just keep my eyes open I suppose. Probably looking at a 3.55 gearset. I like a little bit of gear to pull against.

    Going to get on the schedule with a local race chassis guy to get my subframe connectors welded in as well as a crack in the floor welded up. Hoping it won't be more than $250.

    Thanks for following along so far and I hope you've enjoyed seeing a neglected Fox get a shot at a little more life! The ultimate goal is to get it fully back on the road so I can drive it at school.

  16. #116

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    Addition to the last post...

    The master cylinder has started to leak back into the booster and down the front of said booster. I assume sitting around and then being used again probably caused it to give out. I have a new one on order as well as a 180* thermostat, new headlights and wheel cylinders (if necessary). It'll be fairly close to passing MO state inspection soon. Front end is tight, brakes are good (after upcoming service), tires are good, lights will be sorted out, needs wiper blades, horn works, will technically fail for some exhaust leaks I induced trying to determine if a converter was plugged, interior needs to be put back together and that's basically it.

    I'm not one to set goals and especially not one to meet them... but let's shoot for back on the road fully legal and legitimate by my birthday, October 30th!

  17. #117

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    A question about the floor re-enforcement piece-would that be installed before or after SFC's? I'm not sure if my 84 RS Turbo t-top car has them, but I'm gonna say NO. I want to install SFC's and since I'm not a small guy, would assume the seat mounts could stand some beefing up. Thoughts?
    84 Capri RS Turbo
    Vinemont, AL (formerly El Mirage, AZ)
    USAF 1986-2007 (Ret)

  18. #118

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    On the road by my birthday did NOT happen. Shocking...

    Progress update incoming shortly.

  19. #119

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    Made a little bit of progress on the car.

    Changed the exhaust and installed the subframe connectors. This car has been banged up all over so it made fitting the subframe connectors a pain.

    Exhaust is Hooker Super Comp short tubes, BBK H pipe and tail pipes with no mufflers. Sounds like an outboard marine engine... most definitely needs mufflers.

    Needs a full interior and then it's pretty much ready for the road.

  20. #120

  21. #121
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Its coming along, nice job. Ive always like the 83/early 84 cars.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  22. #122

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99GTMichael View Post
    Made a little bit of progress on the car.

    Changed the exhaust and installed the subframe connectors. This car has been banged up all over so it made fitting the subframe connectors a pain.

    Exhaust is Hooker Super Comp short tubes, BBK H pipe and tail pipes with no mufflers. Sounds like an outboard marine engine... most definitely needs mufflers.

    Needs a full interior and then it's pretty much ready for the road.
    What did you have to do to get the subframe connectors fitting correctly? I'm about to do this to my '84 vert and have a feeling it will take some tweaking.
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  23. #123
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    all I can say is that I need that shop.....lol
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  24. #124

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    Unless you have a really straight car that hasn't been mangled underneath, I'd recommend taking the car to a shop. If I had to do this job again on this car without a lift, I'd not hesitate to pay a shop rather than suffer on the ground with floor jacks. If you have a good car and a lift and a good welder, it should be pretty easy to fry the connectors on. The metal seems pretty thin on the car, so be careful or you'll blast a hole really quick. We used a 110v mig.

    We used the air jacks on the 4-post rack to jam the connectors up into the chassis as best as possible. Basically, the connectors fit in 3 places. The front subframe, the center with two upright tabs and the rear subframe. If the car is straight, it should just lay flush on all 3 ends. Our wasn't really all that close. I accepted that the car was tweaked and my room-mate and I hammered, shimmed and globbed on weld. It is NOT pretty, but they're stuck on there!

    Maximum Motorsport's instructions are excellent, you can view them online even if you get a different brand just for some tips.

  25. #125

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    Right? It's actually a 9-rack shop where I work and the owners are kind enough to allow me to use it on weekends!

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