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  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by danco86 View Post
    Yessir. That flame blue metallic is a winning color. I wasn't even in the market for a new truck when I came across that one at the Ford dealer. I can't think of any other time where I'd seen a vehicle once and knew I had to have it.

    But yeah, maybe that is the reason your calipers aa located where they are. It is where I was told I'd have to move mine to, if I wanted to install the bar.

    I strongly encourage you to paint it flame blue. I've always wanted to see a fox in that color.
    Paint and body is not something I plan to tackle anytime soon. Just looking to enjoy the car and do some autocross. It just depends on how long I can stand looking at the fair paint on it now. I 99.9% certain the blue flame on this car would look absolutely perfect. Funny, with my truck, I had a race red FX2, then noticed the blue flame and HAD to have it. Traded in for the exact same truck, only blue flame.

  2. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Properly bed the pads to the rotors before you make any decisions on changing the m/c.

    If the car does have some type of GM "metric" caliper, these things are generally huge and the 1" m/c is the best choice. Step one is to find out what the diameter of the rear caliper piston is. After the pads are all bed in, test the brakes to see if the fronts or rears lock up first. If it is the rears, you will definitely need to disable the stock proportioning valve and install an adjustable valve.
    Thanks Jack. Will do. These are GM metric no doubt. I think wneh I went to get pads for it, the guy know instantly what it was and gave me a pair of pads from I think a 78 monte carlo?? But the bore on it is no doubt large.

    I was wondering if not having the brakes bedded yet would make a difference. Once its aligned, I'll take it out to an empty road and try to set the rear bias, doing this should also help bed in the brakes.
    Last edited by mdula; 03-13-2017 at 09:37 AM.

  3. #28

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    Thanks for the compliments and suggestions / support. This was a pretty large undertaking and a lot of changes at once, so hopefully I can get it all dialed in. The rear kit, being used and all, is always a gamble. And sure enough the passenger rear caliper is leaking by the e-brake arm. So that seal is shot. looking to see if its rebuildable, if not I'll need to find a GM metric style caliper with parking brake for it to replace it.

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Personally I find the SN95 style rear brakes work very well on the foxbody cars. I would not be motivated to try anything else.

    Good luck getting your combo dialed in.

  5. #30

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    Update, still needs aligned. I aligned it, string method (which works pretty well) to get it to the alignment shop. It was SO off before using the string method I think driving it to the shop would have worn out the tires. Car drives great, MAN is it fun to drive. With all this I went with 3.73 gears as well. Brakes were starting to bed and grab hard, feels alot better. I went to an nearby open country road and the brakes lock up...Bias needs adjusted rear locked up before front, and just the driver wheel. Passenger caliper needs replaced that lil leak in the rear, its lost its bite.

    So, how does one effectively and safely set front to rear bias??

  6. #31

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    From post #23:

    "Step one is to find out what the diameter of the rear caliper piston is."

    Without knowing the front and rear caliper piston sizes and rotor diameters, the rear brakes could have 50% too much bias. If this is the case, you will never be able to balance them with an adjustable proportioning valve. If you want to read more about this, see the link below.

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/2262911-post159.html
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    From post #23:

    "Step one is to find out what the diameter of the rear caliper piston is."

    Without knowing the front and rear caliper piston sizes and rotor diameters, the rear brakes could have 50% too much bias. If this is the case, you will never be able to balance them with an adjustable proportioning valve. If you want to read more about this, see the link below.

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/2262911-post159.html
    Dang, thats a good read Jack. Not only did I miss your name title (MM tech support), I clearly had no idea regarding this. I thought the prop valve would cover any if not all slack between front and rear bias. I'll be pulling the rear brake tonight, see if I can or cannot get a rebuild kit for that small leak. While Im there I'll measure the bore.

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    From post #23:

    "Step one is to find out what the diameter of the rear caliper piston is."

    Without knowing the front and rear caliper piston sizes and rotor diameters, the rear brakes could have 50% too much bias. If this is the case, you will never be able to balance them with an adjustable proportioning valve. If you want to read more about this, see the link below.

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/2262911-post159.html
    Got my caliper leak fixed, measured the bore and its a whopping 2" bore size.

  9. #34

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    2" is a huge bore size for the front brake calipers that are on your car. These calipers have 79% more area than the normal rear calipers paired with your fronts. This means that the rear brakes will have 79% more rear brake torque than what they normally have. This is way outside the adjustment range of an adjustable proportioning valve.

    Assuming that your front calipers are like the ones shown at the link below; ribs on the outside of the caliper body; then they have the smaller 38mm pistons. You should get some calipers from a 1999-2004 application which don't have these ribs and have 40.5mm pistons. This will help the brake balance some and increase the pedal travel.

    https://lmr.com/item/SVE-2320C/1994-...FQ-dfgodd1kBzg

    You are going to want to install a front brake pad with a high coefficient of friction. Such as a Hawk HPS or other pad with a lot of carbon. They will normally be black or very dark. In the rear, I would use a ceramic pad, which has very low friction. Disable the stock proportioning valve and install an adjustable proportioning valve, if you haven't done so.

    The above combination of parts should give a fairly soft brake pedal with a moderate amount of travel. You must be in the brake pads before adjusting the brake bias. To bed the pads in, I would start by setting the proportioning valve to full rear reduction so that you don't spin the car.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    2" is a huge bore size for the front brake calipers that are on your car. These calipers have 79% more area than the normal rear calipers paired with your fronts. This means that the rear brakes will have 79% more rear brake torque than what they normally have. This is way outside the adjustment range of an adjustable proportioning valve.

    Assuming that your front calipers are like the ones shown at the link below; ribs on the outside of the caliper body; then they have the smaller 38mm pistons. You should get some calipers from a 1999-2004 application which don't have these ribs and have 40.5mm pistons. This will help the brake balance some and increase the pedal travel.

    https://lmr.com/item/SVE-2320C/1994-...FQ-dfgodd1kBzg

    You are going to want to install a front brake pad with a high coefficient of friction. Such as a Hawk HPS or other pad with a lot of carbon. They will normally be black or very dark. In the rear, I would use a ceramic pad, which has very low friction. Disable the stock proportioning valve and install an adjustable proportioning valve, if you haven't done so.

    The above combination of parts should give a fairly soft brake pedal with a moderate amount of travel. You must be in the brake pads before adjusting the brake bias. To bed the pads in, I would start by setting the proportioning valve to full rear reduction so that you don't spin the car.
    Jack your spot on. These are the brakes I have up front. I thought they we're tooled front an 03 cobra caliper, dual pistons, never would I think they had a smaller bore than a 99-04 caliper (are they not single piston?), plus with a 13" rotor I didnt think a stock 99-04 would work and needed the cobra style caliper. Front pads are from the LMR kit as well. The stock prop valve is gutted with ford plug and Im running an SSBC manual valve thats basically screwed all the way out applying the least amount of rear pressure.

    The rear pads are basic pads. So, this is why my pedal feels a bit hard, and takes a bit of brake to stop the car. Granted its light years better than it was it does not have that more "modern" touchy feel I was expecting. So. I can either get a larger front caliper, or what do you think about a smaller rear. If I could find a GM metric style rear 1" bore (half the size) that would help? I will also look into the hawk hps pads. But just knowing a stock 99-04 caliper might perform better, Im wondering why I spent what I spent on the smaller SVE calipers. Ive stopped the car pretty hard, but I cant say Ive locked up the fronts yet. Before I adjusted the valve full out, the rear did lock up on me and try to spin a little (wide open test area).

    Would a smaller bore rear improve pedal feel and improve bias, or should I look at increasing the fronts bore?

    Good stuff here Jack, seriously appreciate the help. Sorry for late response, been a busy man!
    Last edited by mdula; 04-04-2017 at 10:40 PM.

  11. #36

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    Also forgot to mention, im using the stock fox booster, 1: bore MC. Ive thought that maybe a 205mm tandem booster might help my pedal feel as well with this combo.

  12. #37
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Camber bolts - when you look at their breaking point compared to factory it really marginalizes the concern.

    Yes - spring are a nightmare! Every time I mess with them I am grateful if I get it done without incident.

    I havent found a spring compressor that i like. Every one seems to have limitations in terms of height and adjustability.

    I did find that a good pry bar goes a long ways towards hitting the pocket.

    Once I drop down to a 255/40/17 tire instead of a 245/45/17 our cars will be within 1/4" of being the same height.
    Last edited by erratic50; 04-05-2017 at 09:06 AM.

  13. #38

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    All of the Cobra style calipers listed on LMRs site are incorrectly listed in the 1999-2004 section. They should only be in the 1994-98 section. The 1994-98 Cobra calipers have the ribs with the smaller 38mm pistons.

    The 1999-2004 Cobra/Mach1/Bullitt calipers all do not have the ribs and have the larger 40.5mm pistons.

    The two different GT calipers used from 1994-2004 have absolutely nothing to do with the Cobra calipers. These are a single piston 66mm used from 1994-98 and a dual piston 43mm model used from 1999-2004.

    To match your current front brakes, you need a rear caliper with a 1.5" (38mm) piston. A 1" piston will be way too small. With 1/2 of the diameter, the area is reduced by a factor of four. That would result in 1/4 of the rear brake torque, which is wayyyyy to big of a change. A 1.5" piston is going to make your brake pedal slightly stiffer. Given that, I would try to find actual 1999-2004 Cobra/Mach1/Bullitt front calipers. These will help make the brake pedal a little bit softer.

    Given that your rear calipers are too large, you want to keep a cheap brake pad back there. This will reduce the amount of brake torque. If you install HPS pads, do it in the front.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  14. #39

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    Awesome. Thanks for clarifying this Jack! Kindof a shame to know the calipers are not as advertised. Based on your expertise, would you change the booster as well to say an SN95 one? Would this further help to achieve a less firm pedal feel?

  15. #40

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    Changing to an SN95 brake booster will have zero change on the amount of pedal travel. The booster simply adds force. This will make the car brake harder for a given amount of force on the brake pedal. I do not recommend that change.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

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