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  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    For me, this was a favorite of mine....
    Oooh, Longchamp! Blast you Deano, you made me drool all over my keyboard.
    Then again... we've got friends from NZ visiting now, doing some car shopping. I may have to find out what
    it takes to bring one of those up here...
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  2. #27
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    The Australians and Dutch are the ones to hit up for Longchamps. New Zealand, not so much. Seen plenty of rear drive De Tomaso era Maseratis, they are loved and appreciated here. All these De Tomaso based RWD cars are underappreciated now, if they race Maseratis in 24 hours of Lemonz, you might find a Longchamps closer than the other discovered by the Dutch colonies....



    I think if your a Ford guy, the non mid engined rear drive tu door Lonchamps looks kinda like your Italian immigrant mothers hot cousin...




    Shame it and all the Dee Tomatos look like a Motorweek Hyundai Stella..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRW8zGPSyWY



    Mikes Glia Monster shows what great lines Jack T procured/minded/stole from Ghia and its Ital Design influneces when the Fox was being profiled...the Italian studies ranked highly in the 70's clinics.

    Somewhere, the pendulum is swinging back to the Italian edge era....

  3. #28
    Mike1157
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    Sigh,.......This thread started out bitchin about oil leaks,...and I'm still dealin w/ oil leaks.

    I wanted to take the car out for a small drive just to play. Now that it's making 10+ pounds of boost it has become a completely different animal. As you'd expect, It'll break the tires loose in second gear just as a result of the slow roll into the throttle. I'll bet I'm using less than a 1/3rd of the throttle, and it comes into boost super quick.
    1/3rd throttle in a 1.55 ratio'd 2nd gear at 40 MPH.....adding almost instant 10 p.s.i equals a monster tail that is no longer directly behind me.

    So I'm driving around, getting it out of low gear, (because that has become useless) and I just get it sideways at 40 MPH . Nothing too arrogant,...just your garden variety "actin' a fool." However, as soon as it starts to push sideways, I get off the throttle,...there are way too many You tube fails out there where guys let the car get away from them at this speed and end up trashing the thing... Just to prove that I'm not making this **** up,...maybe I'll do this in a big parking lot, video it and keep my foot planted. (Besides,..I'm curious as to how bad it'd get out of shape if I didn't lift)
    I only drove the thing for a total of about 20 minutes, when I get a "pop" noise that I assumed to be a backfire. I'm thinking to myself, "Maybe Steve is right,...maybe I have a hurt plug". So I call the play period off and head back home... But now I'm catching a smell of oil smoke, I also assume that I'm smelling the puke tank that is under the driver side venting vapor.
    When I get it in the driveway,..I put it in park, and pop the hood like I always do to take a quick look while leaving it running to make sure everything is ok.
    But it's not....

    As soon as I open the door and put my hand on the rocker to get out, It's wet.

    With oil.

    I look at the oil pressure gauge and it's reading 3 p.s.i. I give it a little throttle, and I have nothing but 3 p.s.i. . It's out of oil.

    I pull the thing in, shut it off, and look under it......

    It's soaked, and pouring oil out from under it.
    The driver side tire is dripping on the inside, and the entire driver side inner fender is coated and dripping. The oil cooler is suspect.

    Either a line is broken, or the cooler has ruptured. The shroud that houses the cooler is actively dripping oil, It's obvious that alot of oil has also ran down the lines that go to the filter on the driver side of the engine, and when oil dripped off it hit the tire and it in turn painted the inner fender.

    I check the dipstick,......nothing.

    I jack the car up in the air, and remove that tire. I remove the lines to see if there an obvious break or cut in the line.....

    The only thing I see is that one of the push-lock ends has pushed significantly forward. It has moved out of the hose one full barb. This end was attached to the cooler.

    The cooler doesn't look like it is broken, but it is so covered in oil, you can't tell **** anyway.
    So I'm still haunted by a freaking oil leak...This time a big,...giant,...freakin oil leak.

    I don't know if I ran it completely out of oil,......I guess opening a drain plug will tell me that story. I don't remember how long after I heard the pop if I flogged the car. A couple of times at least, I'm thinkin.' Let's hope it's still got oil in it.

    I pulled all six plugs...They're freakin' perfect.



    I don't know if I even need a stupid assed oil cooler in this car. The damn engine never seems to get hot unless it idles in traffic. And when it's moving is the only time the oil cooler will benefit the engine.
    ( A lot of good an A2A oil cooler does then.)

    I think I'm gonna re-plumb the line and omit the cooler. It'll mean that I'll end up butchering both lines because I need a fitting from each line to do that. In the grand scheme of things, I no longer trust them anyway. If I can get away w/ not using a cooler, I'll buy the fittings I need to plumb it in braided SS, and just reinstall the thing up front as a dummy.


    Provided that the engine's not hurt.
    Last edited by FoxChassis; 05-17-2017 at 06:57 AM.

  4. #29
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
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    Hope to heck your engine's OK, Mike *crosses fingers*...
    1985 Mercury Marquis LTS... "The Unicorn"
    1978 Fairmont... 306 and a C4.

  5. #30
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Mike, I'm also hoping your engine is alright. Good luck.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  6. #31
    Mike1157
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    Well,.....there was still oil in it....

    If you can consider 2-3 Qts. adequate.

    I have magnets all through this engine. There are 3 jrichker approved small ones on the pan floor, and all three drain plugs have built in ones. When I drained the oil, the two out rigger plugs had small chunks of who knows what clinging to them. Could be junk that fell in as a result of my last tear-down when I resealed the engine.
    I'll never know for sure.

    What I do know for sure is that again, the filter looked clean. Since bearing material is non-magnetic, I'm gonna assume that I still have bearings in place, where they're supposed to be.
    So,.....I'm thinkin that's a good thing?

    The second thing I know for sure is that the oil cooler did not rupture, and it'll hold 100 p.s.i. Of air pressure.

    I backed it down to 70 p.s.i. For this pic, so it wouldn't blow my rigged up pressure testing barb out of that linked hose.


    I also now know for sure that the problem is these pieces of ****.

    Specifically, that black hose. The constant drip that was always hanging from the pump/filter has to have always been coming from that loose fitting. Evidently despite their rated 300 p.s.i. burst rating, they either don't like heat, or they don't like oil, ( again rated to handle both) or it was simply a hose end failure...

    But I also know this for sure....

    I ain't using them again.
    That'll mean 10' of -10 braided, and probably 75-100.00 worth of fittings before I can drive it again...

    But thankfully,...I think I'll be able to do that...

    Good, ole indestructible 250 6 banger.......who needs stinkin oil anyway?
    Last edited by FoxChassis; 05-17-2017 at 06:57 AM.

  7. #32

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    Hoping for the best for you!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #33
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    An oil cooler is a problem hiding a problem....except in your case. Drain back, solid lifters, great sump capacity, your cool as a cubumber external pump, it lookes like a 1983 Group C Australian Touring Car drainback Wevers pump semi dry sump system. Where you use the extenal oil pump as an acummulator.

    Keep the oil cooler if you can, and work on the lines.

    Perfect system...there is always Trouble in Paradise!

  9. #34
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Have you considered having a hydraulic shop make you up some lines?
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  10. #35
    Mike1157
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    Nope, standard braided lines will be cheaper and do just fine in the long run. It helps that Summit is having a sale on the particular fittings I'm buying, (saved about 30.00 collectively).

    All toll,...the re-plumb will cost about 150.00. The 10wt-40 syn oil was also on sale. 6 qts and a good filter was another 40.00 (gives me a chance to get rid of the syn super thin 5-30 that was previously in it that's now mostly on the road anyway)

  11. #36
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
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    If you had 2 to 3 quarts left my guess is your engine's just fine. Hell, I had a beater '77 Silverado many years back that I ran out of oil on several occasions and that damn truck never missed a beat !
    1985 Mercury Marquis LTS... "The Unicorn"
    1978 Fairmont... 306 and a C4.

  12. #37

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    Speaking of running an engine out of oil. This is an entertaining thing. They pull the drain plug and run the thing at WOT to see how long it will last.

    http://www.hotrod.com/articles/what-...ource=facebook




    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  13. #38
    Mike1157
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    In car related news.. I got oil pressure.
    W/the 10-40 wt oil in the engine, the oil pressure reads 70 p.s.i. at a cold fast idle. I checked my hose end seal, and it all seems good. So I started to put the thing back together. I'm gonna leave the grille off for my next test drive so I can look one final time at the oil cooler before I hide that perspective w/ the grille.


    I also have got to do something w/ the connection that goes into the throttle body. The hose was back off the TB. THAT was probably the "pop" noise I head on my last outing. I'm gonna have to add another 1" to the elbow so that It freakin stays put. Now that there is 10+ p.s.i, clearly that is a weak link.

  14. #39

  15. #40
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    ....
    This thing made 161 flywheel HP and 246 flywheel torque back in its stock iteration. Based on seat of the pants now.
    I'm thinking 350whp,...maybe 400 rwtq at 7 p.s.i. Some day I'll put it on a dyno.

    But here we are...Ridin' in the Monster again.
    Sound check your pre Thanks Giving second ride Steve Tune at 2.33 min



    with the T26 at 0.50 min

    A Monster that will be putting out more than a Talbot T26, even though it sounds the same...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCHfUk5BoV0

    Although the Stock EFI with 264 cam, was 161/ 246 as you say....that was what the old French blunderbust put out with triple carbs...so your cammed, MAP sensored and compressed engine is right at the level xrglen at Hotsixes found, before turbo. 300 hp and perhaps 300 lb-ft torque.

    Unlike a slant six, the 250 is very responsive to cam up sizing, but it shows a lot more reliabity to rev than the Mopar 225 or even the Hemi 265...its raison d'être is to be pluse tunned, cammed like a small bore, long stroke 5.4 Modular or any long stroke V-Tech B series Honda.



    Your 1978 block had about 99 hp net and 180 lb-ft like the real 250 logs all had



    With the boost you are running, you've Quadruppled the Power and Torque with just a squiwiff of boost and the application of Alabama Smarts with SoCal Roller tech via the Antipodes...with a little Easy Peasy Japanezy Aluminum head spoon bending.

  16. #41
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    The LSC Turbo Diesel had



    Exhibit A, a NVH ramp to keep the BMW Lcode engine quiet....,





    similar to the Opel Commodore B and VB Holden Commodore engine bay insultaion ramp. Its addded to reduce noise, and improve dust sealing in the Aussie bulldust.



    One other guy here used a white insulation material.


    The REALLY stop convection, you need to use a combined firewall plate out of non NVH transfering material (Swiss Keller company made some 1" sorbathane for Aussie TF Cortina 4's and 1980-1992 X Falcons. Those cars had quite the worst firewall NVH acoustics. The toe boards on the Falcon had no torque box, it was deleted from US Falcon practice from 79-92. The Cotina got a 5" rebate for the I5 engine, and it created a massive acoustic resonance zone in every 1971-1979 Auusie Cotina 4 cylinder untill the NVH blanket was addded. One goes firewall side, the other passenger side.



    You wouldn't wanna rescalpal the baby for an extraction fan to second set of base model box top gills?.


    Scre\/\/ that for a joke....






    Exhibit B silver polycarbonate on a foam backing. "Universal Heat Shield Self Adhesive 100cm X 100cm Firewall Turbo Exhaust Car"



    Ford Australia sent its TE Cortina to the Swiss Kellar Institute to remove the Noise Vibration and Harshness all Pinto engined recessed firewall TC/TD/TE cars suffered from. Ford Australia used a section of the XA Falcon floor plan to create a rebate to fit the 9" longer 250 Eengine in the Brtish Ford Cortina/Taunus TC1 engine bay. In so doing, they created a Vibrating hulk.

    Source: Wheels Dec 1980 "Closer To The Rising Sun"

    TF Cortina Upgrades Reduce NVH (Noise Vibration and Harshness)

    The Cortina now drives like it should have done all along. It still has problems but it presents itself as a more driveable, sounder, conventional two-litre car: the type of car you’d take home to meet your mother. Nothing fancy, nothing elaborate, just sound. Or, more specifically, lack of sound. A good part of the $8 million Ford Australia pumped into its TF program went towards attempting to cure what engineers have privately admitted is an incurable acoustical problem inherent in the Cortina. It seems that try as you might, designing a more resonant sound box on wheels than the current-shape Cortina is near impossible: the car has sonorous crevices and humming haunches that came straight from the unwitting designers. But it looks terrific.
    The 250 TF was like this modifed



    Its basic engine bay had a 4" rear firewall rebate, and a 5" front scollop at the radiator panel




    The work Ford Australia did was to fit the Mustang II/ Fox TRW rack and Pinto/Mustang II/ Fox Mustang lower suspension pickups into the 1971-1977 TC/TD structure. The engine bay created massive vibrating resonace when the 2 liter Pinto engine was in the bay.

    Keller found the resonace points, and added foam around the whole firewall. The same work on the XD/XE Falcon resulted in axtra 20 mm+ 7/8" foam being placed behind the firewall, into the cabin.

    In Germany and Korea, both the Ford Cortina esque design European Granada






    and the Guigrio restyled Ford Cortina based Hyundai Stella got the Fox Lincoln style NVH Ramp






    So the perscription solution is to do the same....add 7/8" padding inside the toe board

    Add an NVH ramp.


    Noise and heat gone....

  17. #42
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    VB/VC/VH/VK Holden Commodore (1978 - 1985) had the NVH ramp,




    its just an Opel Record A with MacPherson strut suspension and a longer nose.

    The second revision Victor, the FE Vauxhall Ventora


    and 1972 ish Record "A" started sharing the same underpinnings,






    and the Germans and British decided the NVH ramp was required for noise suppression on its noisy slant and in line fours and its sixes got the treatment as well.

  18. #43
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    The whole Fox car program had the letter S assigned to it, but it was the exclusively the Striling built cars that got the ramp from the debut of the official S car body, the hidden window wiper Lincolns, Brave New 83 Bird and Cougar and the LSC variants, all the same a pillar substructure.



    Everything else Central Fuel Injected except the HO 5.0 Lincoln and Mustang/ Capri auto 84-85 5.0 got the Mr PunnyVerse 15"







    Lookes to me like the NVH ramp would be easier to fit to a Fairmont/Mustang with its intergrated hinges.


    Its a diesel only thing....L code 2.4 turbo BMW engined Lincolns only..... you could find one from a wreck, or make one yourself.

    If any of this fits your NVH reduction aims.


  19. #44
    Mike1157
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    Ok Zeelander......You keep making reference to a "NVH ramp" but do not specifically show what the hell it is.

    I hope to hell that stepped dogleg intake manifold isn't what you're talking about, because I just checked the weather forecast in Hell, and they are not predicting any cold days, anytime soon.

    In other words,.....

    There is no way I'm changing anything about my current intake manifold.

    Secondly,...Maybe this NVH ramp is the shadow box thing at the firewall that shrouds the engine,.....which would require I somehow cover the "barely fitting in there already" valve cover assembly...

    And again,......No! says the finger....

    Now padding on the firewall and hood is another story, and part of my immediate plan. All of which will take place, just as soon as I get moved into the new house,..and just as soon as we get it close to normal...provided we ever get there.
    Last edited by Mike1157; 06-13-2017 at 07:00 AM.

  20. #45
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I'm so glad your not wishy washy!

    incidently, it'll fit like a glove.



    Just like a BMW M21 diesel in a Fox....and you don't need a water bottle if its colder than hades...


    I'm just glad I didn't have to rip another picture in paint, out line the NVH ramp and its seal in red, put it on my photobucket, and write it in mock German...whewh!


    You had the option of doing great Humanitatian Service, and ridding the world of a car you might not love....



    But hey, a nice pickup tray conversion, the old Linc would look like a Daimler towing a concrete mixer...If you did it, it would win an award...



    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    They're all pretty damn ugly,..but the first one takes the ugliest of the bunch award.

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