thanks guys
The alternator wiring kit is: Painless Wiring 30700
Will post up some more pictures in a bit but wanted to post this first:
Missing some sensors and coolant but progress!
thanks guys
The alternator wiring kit is: Painless Wiring 30700
Will post up some more pictures in a bit but wanted to post this first:
Missing some sensors and coolant but progress!
You're cruising! Making me look reeeaaalll slow. Haha. Awesome work.
1968 mustang, 1986 mustang gt... One done, one still slow.
OK, back at it. I had some travel for work and other distractions. The first fire was without coolant, no gauges, and missing the O2s & MAF. Just to see if it would start. Now with the confidence to move forward I have been busy.
The 02s and harness went in no problem to the stock location on the stock manifolds.
The alternator was wired over to the starter solenoid with a inline fuse that came with the Painless Wiring alternator Kit 30700 140-190. An extra deflector shield was added to protect the solenoid out of some plastic I had from an old project. Also of the solenoid terminals were coated in some brush on electric tape. I’m nervous about waster ingress and shorting this thing out.
Some additional edge guards was added to areas where the cabling crossed edges or had the chance to have abrasion over time.
From the alternator terminal I ran the 12v power for the fan. This was a nice short run and also put a fuse in line to protect the circuit. Some p-clips and the wire loom make it look nice. The connections are all soldered and heat shrunk.
The cooling system was next. The coyote upper hose is bigger than the stock fox radiator inlet. Not wanting to replace my radiator or weld onto the radiator I found a rubber adapter (Gates 26390 Hose Reducer) that worked out really well with a little e WD40 to help slide everything together.
I spliced in the auto meter radiator hose adapter 2283 into the lower hose. I know this will be a cooler reading than the actual engine temp but with the electric fan on auto pilot this should just be a monitor to make sure nothing is going too crazy. The route was also shorter and clean. I don’t think it would reach on the upper side and have not found an easy way to add it somewhere else.
The heater hoses were run around the back of the intake and jumped together with a brass hose fitting union that is a 3/4" x 3/4" barb. I’ll need to get a new heater core before hooking these up.
The coolant hoses have fittings that need to be plugs. I found some ¾” coolant bypass caps.
With the cooling system and alternator hooked up, next was the mechanical oil pressure. I have had a nylon tube for 10 years but think its time to upgrade to copper. I found the auto meter copper tubing kit 3224 and ran that to the guage. I had a t-fitting so was able to hook up the engine sensor as well as the gage.
I’m sure it would be fine but the brake lines are fairly tight to the exhaust. I wanted to insulate these lines from the heat and go a 3/8" ID x 10' Hot Rod Sleeve Roll 204011. Cut this up for each of the lines and put some heat shrink on the ends.
Some more cosmetics. Ordered 50' Feet 3/8" & ¼” Split Loom Tubing to finish off the electrical wiring and cover up the stock brake lines. Fairly happy with how it came out.
The strut bellow on the passenger side met an early demise when welding. Both the passenger and driver sides were replaced with Moog Strut Bellows K90462 and the caster camber plates brought back down. I don’t know how to do an alignment in my garage. I know some fairly talented people that can get this close in a garage. If anyone has a link can you provide or I will just end up taking it to a shop
With most of the wiring done and tucked away it was time to put the front end on.
Unfortunately the stock intake did not fit very well. The distance from the fender wall to the intake centerline is too short and scrunched it all together. I see some people don’t have a problem or maybe they are modifying the intake or something. I didn’t see a way to do this without it looking ammature. I found the K&N Air Intake 71-3527 and really liked the look of it but it really lightened the wallet. I still had to take about 1” off the tube to get it to fit right but I think it looks awesome and am hoping I don't screw up the MAF signal
Thanks to the help of my wife and the gantry crane this was fairly uneventful. The hood was next and the moment of truth. The hood almost closed without issue. the hood re-enforcement had to be messaged back just a bit around the CAI but it closed without having to shim the k-member!!!
There is still some header to steering shaft issues to resolve. A flaming river long tongue shaft FR9950TLG was ordered to push the knuckle past the header tube but there is still some interference to deal with. Also the 5.0 clutch fork is too short for the modular bell housing so one of those need to be ordered.
Looks awesome. Keep the updates coming.
1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
1986 SVO Mustang - 1C
LOTS of stuff done! Hopefully be driving soon?
Great story and build man! It's great to see someone keep a car for so many years and continue to work on it. I've had mine since 1993 so I can appreciate owning and modifying the same car for so many years! Good luck with the build and I would love to see the car at Foxtoberfest this year.
http://www.foxresto.com/foxtoberfest...vent_a/258.htm
Cool Build and Nice Fox.
A Coyote in a Fox is a winning combo for sure. We have been running ours for over 4 years now and couldn't be happier with the result.
1984 T Top Coupe-Coyote 5.0, 4R70W, Modified BBK Long Tubes, 3.73s-FOXOTE-(formerly...HERFOX)
FEP Ride of the Month January 2014.!!
My origin plan was June but maybe July. Transmission and exhaust to go any very excited to have the disability of the coyote.
@her5.0 anything to think about or watch out for as I prepare to get it on the road?
I hope to fortunate enough to have it for a long time. 24 years is awesome.
Yeah, I have been wanting to go for a number of years but always had an excuse. I'll plan to be there this year for sure!
Some guys that do the swaps have issues with stalling. If you do JMS has a Tune/Fix for it. We are running a 4R70W automatic and the converter cures 99% of the stalling. How they run I also think has a lot to do with the location of the 02 sensors-we put ours in the H Pipe and not in the Coyote Swap Headers and I think that makes a difference, because we have been running ours on the Ford Racing Tune since day 1 and it is spot on. I have a SCT Livewire hooked up at all time to keep an eye on what's doing on. You will have to see how it runs and just call JMS for the Fix if needed.
Only issue we have had and still have is minor and I have not really heard anyone else over the years complaining of this, but there is a Constant Drain on the Battery somewhere. The battery will drain down if I don't throw a charger on it weekly or so I just leave the trickle on it or at least for a night once a week. Since I have not heard others complaining about it I think it might be from the Computer that controls the transmission, but not sure.
Other than that, we just drive it... anywhere and everywhere..!!!
1984 T Top Coupe-Coyote 5.0, 4R70W, Modified BBK Long Tubes, 3.73s-FOXOTE-(formerly...HERFOX)
FEP Ride of the Month January 2014.!!
Thoughts:
What ignition switch are you running? My 86GT had a constant drain until I replaced the ignition switch.
put a bulb between the car and one post of the battery. If it lights up the drain is in the car. Start pulling circuits until the bulb goes out then isolate from there.
Awesome build!
The transmission was next as since I got it has had difficulty downshifting into second.. never took one of these apart before and enlisted in the Hanlon motorsport video for $20 to help guide me. They were also extremely nice. Got it all apart
I ended up having to order a number of parts....The dog teeth were fairly worn on both the 1/2 and 3/4 synchro assemblies but the blocker rings were in good shape fo rsome reason. I suspect that this was a poor attempt to fix the problem by someone in the past. I ordered up 3 new carbon lined blocker rings (1-2, 2-3, 3-4), 2 standard blocker ring, replacement plastic shift fork pads (apparently the brass ones are not recommended for street drving), 1-2 synchro assembly, 3-4 synchro assembly, 26 spline input, front/rear seal. Somehow I lost a needle bearing for the reverse gear along the way but Hanlon sent me 2 to be me back in shape. Again the folks over at Hanlon were super nice.
It probably could use more new arts as a number of the races were showing debris dents and wear but putting anymore would start to justify looking for a tko.
Fortunately before attempting to putting it all back together went to test fit the new input shaft into the clutch assembly and it would not fit. Some digging uncovered that I had screwed up in that the stock coyote has a different spine count than the new 26. I gave SPEC a call and they shipped me a new friction disc and will re-spline my old one for free.
Last edited by djviscom; 08-19-2017 at 10:28 AM.
The transmission re-assembly is fairly straight forward. I did have to order a new shim kit to get the bearing preload correct but this was only a small bump while waiting for the SPEC clutch to come in.
The transmission went in without any drama which was a relief. Event the Stifflers cross member worked with very minor modification. I did have to knockout the mounts a little it to get it in there but the transmission bolted right up. I thought for sure that I was going to be cutting/welding to make it work.
Driveshaft was not a problem and event got the driveshaft safety loop back in there. Now that the car will make some power this will be a good and necessary thing to have to take it to the track.
Last edited by djviscom; 08-19-2017 at 10:45 AM.
The exhaust ended up being a bit of a pain. The manaflow 3inch tips really look nice but a 3" exhaust really does not appear to want to fit in a lowered fox body. I spent hours adjusting/re-adjusting to try to find the best spot. Got it to a place that seemed to work but on initial test drive found that the suspension keeps bottoming out. Found the pinch point but not really anything I can do about it.
The magnaflow kit comes with turndowns for the later model GTs. I ended up sectioning the tubing before it goes over the rear end and using these turndowns for dumps.
Not sure I am in love with it but gets me on the road. Even though its stainless I painted all the exhaust flat black with some high temp rattle can but left the polished mufflers unpainted. Its louder than I wanted but sounds pretty good.
Last up is the steering column interference with the header. After pondering it for a couple days I came up with the solution of shimming the steering column down and to pitch it down more at the firewall than at the gages. It took a bunch of washers to actually move it
Clearance was finally achieved
The shaft was then all put together with red Loctite. Clearly there was some trial and error. The steering still feels very solid and no unintended deflection. Will think about other ways to make it work but for now it seems to work fairly well.
I seemed to have some air in the coolant system. Used the heater hose and a milk carton to bleed it out. The carton was filled halfway with coolant and the hoses were stuck in it but disconnected from each other allowing the air to come out.
Took it to a shop to get the alignment re-done and have since clocked about 50miles on it. It does have the coyote stalling issue but I found that coming to a stop in gear will help prevent the stalling issue. At some point I will get that JMS tune but holding out for a little bit. Trying to break the new clutch/transmission in without actually breaking it. So far though it is extremely smooth and pulls really nicely just rolling into it.
I think I am going to just enjoy it for the summer/fall and make a list of all the fixes and decide hat to ultimately do with the exhaust/steering. New heater core and collecting parts for the AC system though are definitely on the list.
What an awesome build!! Looks great!!
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--86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
--Bill
Coming along very nicely!
I am happy to see I am not the only poor soul doing the Steering column shuffle with a Mod Motor swap!
Unfortunately mine is a bit more involved thanks to the taller/wider 5.4 DOHC engine! WHAT Was I thinking!
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
Easy and simple 365 HP and 405 lbs -- at the tire -- via premium fuel and a hypertech tune on the 5.4 in my 2008 MarkLT - that's what you're thinking I'm sure. Bring on the boost!
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