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  1. #26

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    Two more holes about 1.25" are needed as well as I am hiding the harness in the fender well. In order to keep the hole size small the box connector has to be de pinned. I used a straight pick to release the clip.

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    The main harness is just long enough to make the passenger kick panel, it located the o2 harness in a good spot, the fan wires also come out right at the fender and I am relocating the starter solenoid to the fender well where the starter wiring is also well placed. Also the pedal wiring is going to be really close and the OBDII port will be convenient.

    My plan is to get everything in place but to take it back out to weld it all up.

  2. #27

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    Really slow going but got some new brake lines bent up and flared. Motor is really close to the master but it all fits!Name:  IMAG1817.jpg
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  3. #28
    phat86gt
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    Great write up. Thanks for sharing and the part #s nice job.

  4. #29

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    Nice work, looking forward to more updates!

  5. #30

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    Thanks again, I was able to work on the exhaust for a couple hours this weekend. The craigslist motor came with the factory 2014 h-pipe and cats. The plan is to modify the factory 14 exhaust to mate up to the magnaflow 3" fox cat back. I'm sure there are h-pipes out there but for a bolt up kit you would need to buy the $1000+ longtubes and the h-pipe otherwise need to modify an h-pipe to mate to the factory headers. Hopefully the 3" stainless J pipes and a little bit of time can save some money. First off the 3" band flare (i dont know what they are really called) were sectioned off the h-pipe just below the weld that reatins the band. This will let the 3" tube to mate to the flanges that were cut off the header. The band flare was the tacked onto the headers that previously had the flanges cut off (the flanges wouldnt allow the engine to slide in). They will be seal welded when the engine comes back out.

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  6. #31

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    The cats are snugged up pictures were all taken afterward and the somehow locate pretty well to the stifflers cross member that was also added.
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    The pins for the isolation mounts on the stiffer cross member were shortened to 2 3/4", This was a little wide but fit. The mount may need to still be moved but we will see. Hopefully it doesnt and even if it does I hope the effort would be minimal.

  7. #32

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    The catback was also hung and the 3" tubes are huge. The fit is ok but will need to modify the factory hangers for a 3" exhaust clamp but for now hung it with zip ties to figure out some of the fitment
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    For now the GT turndown are being used to take the dents and dings of locating everything. The kit came with the super nice polished tips that will go on at the ends.

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  8. #33

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    The weld retaining the 2.5" tubing in the factory h-pipe was cut out to accommodate the different layout. About 5.5 - 6 inches need to be cut off of the tubing for it to match to with the cats.
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    The tubing was tacked back in place and will be seal welded once its all laid out
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    I started rushing as it was getting late and called it a night. Next up is to weld the flanges onto the h-pipe and then mate it to the cat back.

  9. #34

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    I'm subscribed! Awesome work, and awesome pics. I'm in the process as well.. thanks again!
    VERY informative.
    1968 mustang, 1986 mustang gt... One done, one still slow.

  10. #35

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    Got a little more work done over the last two weeks. Bought 2 3" muffler clamps, welded them to the existing exhaust hangers and painted them
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    Modified the catback Mangaflow kit and used the 3in sections to connect to the h-pipe, tacked it all together as I didnt have any stainless filler rod until today. Plan is finish seam welding it after the transmission/driveshaft are back in to prevent rework. Not too much to see until get it all back out.
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    Pulled the motor back out and removed the headers. Seal welded the flanges on and re-installed them onto the motor.
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    They came out ok, working on the welding skills (or lack of)
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  11. #36

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    Tucked the motor into the back of the garage and started on the engine bay.
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    I always thought it looked cool and kind of thought it was a lot of work but you never really know until you do it. Filling all the little holes in, making the fill panels and all the vertical welding is a ton of work. Months ago I prepped by making many of the fill pieces and left final trim for now which cut out some time.
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    This is all done with a used tig bought from a friend at work. A mig is probably better suited but the the spatter goes everywhere and figured this would be plenty of practice at some tough angles. Everything was hit with some weld through primer to prevent it from rusting while the rest gets worked on. Going to finish all the welding first, then lots and lots of grinding.
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  12. #37

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    Great progress brother. When I smoothed my '86's engine bay I just used some Scott Rod panels. Very cool build.

  13. #38
    Mike1157
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    Missed your last update,..answered my own question.
    Last edited by Mike1157; 03-30-2017 at 07:41 AM.

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    Damn...this was more enjoyable than reading a "compressed" magazine story! Really interested to see how this turns out for you
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 Capri RS Resto-Mod
    '88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,800 Mile Original Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2019 Best Original 87-93)
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey

  15. #40

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    Cool Car and Cool Build...

    You will not be disappointed with a Coyote Swap Fox!
    1984 T Top Coupe-Coyote 5.0, 4R70W, Modified BBK Long Tubes, 3.73s-FOXOTE-(formerly...HERFOX)

    FEP Ride of the Month January 2014.!!

  16. #41

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    @ Davedacarpainter, thanks . I have yet to disclose that I have a drag car that I went the Scott Rod path on with aluminum panels. I did like how it came out but for this car that I hope to put a bunch of miles I wanted to go all steel and weld it tight.

    @ Sowaxeman, lol, thanks. Trying to give more details than the glossy pages an hope someone els will benefit

    @ Her5.0, 400hp and 20mpg is my goal

    Over the last few weeks bought some paint stripper and removed as much as the remaining red paint as possible. Also removed the spot welds on the support frame that runs under the battery. Have to drill all these out and then pry up on the corner by the shock tower to really remove it. I knew there was some rust under there but not exactly how bad.
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    After getting access to the frame there was mosty surface rust and not nearly the mess I had expected. The metal was still plenty solid.
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    Took a wire brush and removed as must of the surface rust as possible. Coated it with a rust converter (Corroseal). The corroseal looks blue/black/purple when applied and dries glossyish black.
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  17. #42

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    Next continued on the driver side with lots of welding. Staying with the tig to prevent spatter and am paranoid about fire and hung a fire blanket on the wall, over the tire/shock and laid one under the weld area for any puddles that got too big and couldn’t hold on.
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    Ground the welds smooth on both aprons and got to work with some putty. Nothing fancy just enough to hide the sin.
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    Passenger Side
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    Driver Side
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  18. #43

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    Coated it all with high build primer. Passanger Side
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    Driver Side
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    Will have to weld the passanger side frame back together and fill the remaining holes over the next couple weeks.

    Also got a hold of Hanlon motorsports and ordered one of their tremec 3550/tko movies since I have never taken one apart a 26spline input shaft and 3 carbon lined blocker rings from them. Will get started taking that apart once the welding/painting is done.

  19. #44
    phat86gt
    Guest

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    wow that's a great build. excellent pics.

  20. #45

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    Good progress brother. Smoothing the engine bay sucks away a lot of time, huh? I look forward to seeing it in paint.

  21. #46

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    @ Phat86GT, thanks. That seemed to be the one request.

    @ Davedacarpainter, ha, yeah there is a lot of work there just wish I had more talent. I saw your build and wish my projects came out half as good.

    More updates. Welded the passanger side all back together. Finished sanding and painting. Used grey filler primer for everything. 2 coats and sanded with 320 in between to try and get it as nice as possible.
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    Other side
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  22. #47

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    Unfortunatly I have neither the tools or skill and use what I hav. I used the VHT epoxy black for my topcoat and applied 2 coats. I had some overspray but Goo Gone is fairly agressive on new paint and I able to repair it all.
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    I did not take a picture without the motor as I was too excited to start getting it back together I swapped the Moroso pan and oil sensor. The new moroso pan made dropping the engine in more difficult. Again if you have an aftermarket k-member (specifically AJE in my case) dont bother with a new pan
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    and one more
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  23. #48

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    Started the wiring and plumbing. Re-mounted the ECU and wire harness. Mounted the fuel regulator (change the spring first for the high pressure) and adjusted the fuel lines.
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    all the wiring is being soldered, heat shrunk, covered in corrugated tubing and wrapped with electrical tape. Trying to make it robust .
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    Also got the intake, fuel rails on and radiator in.
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    Had to shorted the alternator wiring a bit, maybe 8 inches. Also bought a painless high amp 6awg wire kit. I will post the part number when I find it,
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    one more
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    will need a t-fitting for my mechanical water temp gage (1.5 inch) and a reducer from 1.5inch to 1.25inch adapt the coyote hose to my stock radiator. lastly going t order a copper tube kit for the mechanical oil pressure gage. Its time for the nylon one to go.

    I also broke the heater core when removing the old engine. Since its will be soon summer in the southeast I am going to put a union between the heater hoses and tackle that repair over the winter.....maybe get the AC working too at that time

  24. #49

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    You got a lot done man, the engine bay looks really nice.

  25. #50
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
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    The engine bay is really coming along nicely!

    Although it appears you might have an issue with your struts!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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