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  1. #1

    Default Fitment issue with Header/TFS heads/ARP Studs

    To start here are the specs of what I'm working with:
    Trickflow Twisted Wedge Heads (170cc)
    Stainless Steel shorty headers (brand unknown)
    ARP 12-point Header Stud Kit

    Previous setup:
    Bone stock E5 cylinder heads
    Same Stainless Steel shorty headers mentioned above (unknown brand)
    Stock Style Exhaust Manifold Bolts

    The engine is currently on an engine stand and I am simply test fitting the headers and this is the exact reason I always test fit my parts..

    Fitment issue:
    First off just to be clear here, on the old setup, there was absolutely no problem with header/exhaust manifold bolts or any alignment issues with the bolts or headers.

    On my new setup with all of the studs screwed into the cylinder head, the front runner of the header (cylinder 1) does not line up 100% with the studs to allow the header to slip onto the studs. By this I mean, the bolt holes the the header appear to be somewhere between 1/4"-1/8" too far back to properly align.

    I can take the header and flip it any way possible and the other 3 align perfect and allow the header to slide right onto the studs as long as the front/cylinder 1 runner of the header is hanging off in space.
    What I'm trying to say here is the I have come to the conclusion that the cylinder head has no alignment issues and the back 3 header runners isolated from the front runner will align perfectly onto the studs. I even went as far as lining the header up the best I could and beating on it with my hand to try to get it to slide on like it should and it wouldn't budge and I didn't want to mess up the threads on my studs.

    I am just curious if anyone else has ran into a similar issue. I don't mind throwing some heat at the header and sliding that sucker into place but I don't think I should have to and I also thing it would make installing the engine back into the car a nightmare with the headers already on it.

    Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated!





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    Last edited by Blownsob; 02-26-2017 at 10:08 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Supporter
    qikgts's Avatar
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    From your description it sounds like you have a header without a one piece flange. Like a Mac brand header. It's quite common for them to become a pita to install the "second" time.

    Like you said, you can heat it up and move it but this will likely be a recurring issue if it comes off again. Personally, I'd sell them and buy a quality part with a one piece flange and move on. If you'd like a recommendation, I've never heard anyone say a bad thing about JBA.
    '85 GT

  3. #3

    Default

    I did consider this could be my "opportunity" to go with a full length header since I have taken the time to do a custom grind cam, with new heads, new valve-train, new intake, new carb, etc.

    Unfortunately, items like this keep dragging out the timeline of my build.

    With that being said, I don't think I can settle for making these work when I've spent so much time and money making sure everything else on the build was done the right way, with the right parts.


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  4. #4
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blownsob View Post
    With that being said, I don't think I can settle for making these work when I've spent so much time and money making sure everything else on the build was done the right way, with the right parts.
    No reason to cut a corner now...
    '85 GT

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Your only other option is to cut the one piece bracket, beat the pipes back straight while cold and relieve it, the put it in and perfect it, tack it back together, pull it back off and burn it in.

    I had a factory manifold on my Lincoln MarkLT walk just like that. It actually snapped the exhaust studs off in the head when it did it. I took one look at it and took the truck to the dealer- screw that fight! They ended up lifting the cab off to get to it. Crazy but it's 4.5 less hours labor lifting a cab than pulling a motor on a 2004-2008 F150 or 2006-2008 MarkLT. Guess it's stupid easy if you have a lift and the right stuff to get ahold of the cab. Put on a new manifold.

    Service manager asked me how I ended up with mud on top of my frame rails. Lol. Mud up to the cab has been known to do that.... Wow I was close to getting stuck. Pic AFTER the first run through the car wash. Lol.
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    Last edited by erratic50; 02-27-2017 at 02:06 AM.

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