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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member 86GTdriver's Avatar
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    Default Power Steering Line Confusion

    So I was pulling apart my high pressure line today to replace it. When I got the original line out I noticed it's end at the rack versus the replacement line at the rack were not the same. As in how the metal tube bends and overall length. I've enclosed pics to illustrate this. The end of the replacement line seems to rub against the sway bar and I can't get it to orient it in the hole at the rack to thread it in place. I don't want to force it or strip anything of course.

    When I went to the various posts counters stores thier pictures of each replacement line looked exactly like the new line I already had. I'm confused and don't know what else to do for my 86 GT w/ factory AC. Any suggestions on a good replacement p/n that actually fits? Didn't seem to matter how I orient the line. Though I found no discernible p/n on the line I pulled from the car it's end at the rack has sharper 90° bends in the metal at the rack and the metal's overall length seems a bit shorter than the replacement. Napa suggested thier p/n 76806.






    Last edited by 86GTdriver; 02-26-2017 at 08:42 PM.
    '86 Mustang GT T-Top, 5-lug Cobra brake swap done
    '96 Mustang Cobra 302rwhp 296rwtq, Sold and missed
    '11 Mustang GT/CS, Traded and will be missed
    '13 Taurus SHO, Performance Pack, hit and run, totalled
    '17 Fusion Sport, Livernois tune, Steeda CAI, Steeda Rear Swaybar, Big Mouth Ram Air, GFB+ valve, Steeda Catch can, TTR FMIC (Garrett Core)

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default

    My 86GT has factory air also. Last fall I just replaced the rack, steering lines, "cooler" loop with an actual transcooler, reman pump, and added a filter on the low pressure side.

    I noticed the same thing, but with a little tweaking the Autozone line (and pump) worked just fine. I had to tweak the line just a very little bit.

    How? I slipped a deep well socket over the nut and gripped the line at the pinch and used an extension for a little leverage.

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member 86GTdriver's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    My 86GT has factory air also. Last fall I just replaced the rack, steering lines, "cooler" loop with an actual transcooler, reman pump, and added a filter on the low pressure side.

    I noticed the same thing, but with a little tweaking the Autozone line (and pump) worked just fine. I had to tweak the line just a very little bit.

    How? I slipped a deep well socket over the nut and gripped the line at the pinch and used an extension for a little leverage.
    I don't suppose there's any chance of a picture?
    '86 Mustang GT T-Top, 5-lug Cobra brake swap done
    '96 Mustang Cobra 302rwhp 296rwtq, Sold and missed
    '11 Mustang GT/CS, Traded and will be missed
    '13 Taurus SHO, Performance Pack, hit and run, totalled
    '17 Fusion Sport, Livernois tune, Steeda CAI, Steeda Rear Swaybar, Big Mouth Ram Air, GFB+ valve, Steeda Catch can, TTR FMIC (Garrett Core)

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    Default

    I believe I have the Gates 354820 on my car. I don't have A/C on it though, so the pump is higher up than yours... but I don't remember having too much trouble connecting it up to the rack.

    Cale

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default

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    Last edited by erratic50; 02-27-2017 at 01:40 AM.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default

    I hope this helps out my friend. I was zombie tired when I did that part of my frontend rebuild. The main thing is don't be afraid to carefully manipulate the line so it lays in there much like the factory line did. It's one place that ford obviously didn't do the best job designing but it works.

    Add an inline filter and a transmission type cooler instead of the dreaded loop then run synthetic fluid. No more dreaded PS noise! I put on a new rack and a reman pump and an underdrive pulley set all at once. It's never been so quiet or feel so good when turning!
    Last edited by erratic50; 02-27-2017 at 01:48 AM.

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member 86GTdriver's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    I hope this helps out my friend. I was zombie tired when I did that part of my frontend rebuild. The main thing is don't be afraid to carefully manipulate the line so it lays in there much like the factory line did. It's one place that ford obviously didn't do the best job designing but it works.

    Add an inline filter and a transmission type cooler instead of the dreaded loop then run synthetic fluid. No more dreaded PS noise! I put on a new rack and a reman pump and an underdrive pulley set all at once. It's never been so quiet or feel so good when turning!
    Thanks it does! Though at the moment the in line for is going to have to wait.
    '86 Mustang GT T-Top, 5-lug Cobra brake swap done
    '96 Mustang Cobra 302rwhp 296rwtq, Sold and missed
    '11 Mustang GT/CS, Traded and will be missed
    '13 Taurus SHO, Performance Pack, hit and run, totalled
    '17 Fusion Sport, Livernois tune, Steeda CAI, Steeda Rear Swaybar, Big Mouth Ram Air, GFB+ valve, Steeda Catch can, TTR FMIC (Garrett Core)

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I think the aftermarket guys thought they would route the line under the sway bar but it looks like crap there and is left a lot more vulnerable to damage in the event of a blowout. They are trying to use the same line on factory air, dealer air, and no air cars. Doesn't really work like that in the world of keeping cars well maintained and correct.

  9. #9

    Default

    return man 3 unblocked I came acorss the same issue.
    Last edited by Icoinse15; 09-07-2017 at 09:41 PM.

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
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    Default

    I just installed a oreillys hose and appears to be bent the same and I removed the OEM because of fitting at the p/s pump was stripped and I didn't tweak it I thought about it but it's manageable def tight and if I had a 11/16 crow foot that would prob be the tool to use BUT a line wrench wouldn't fit and I used a 11/16 open end with just a tad turn each time

    Make sure you lube the o rings on each end and try to clean the area really well so you don't push the crud into hose end or your rack opening and try to thread it in by hand as much as possible and don't overtighten it the steel line will be able to "swivel"when tightened which is normal

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