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Thread: Sound deadening

  1. #1

    Default Sound deadening

    Greetings. I've had a few yards of neoprene for a few years and I was pondering using the stuff over some of the asphalt based liner on the floor and hatch. What are your thoughts? I suspect it should work nicely but I always overlook an aspect or two.

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
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    Anything under the carpet will help I'm sure. How thick is it?
    I just bucked up for a bunch of hushmat..
    Dan

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  3. #3
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    Do a search. The aphsalt based products can smell and get mushy if you live is a high heat area.
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  4. #4

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    The neoprene is about a quarter inch thick. I've got 40 series flowmasters and the drone on the highway is terrible! I've done a bit of Google fu and it appears some other folk have used it with positive results so when I pull the carpet to weld up the subframe connectors I'll lay some down in the floorboards and see if that helps.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
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    I can tell you with 100% certainty that the only thing that will rid you of that incessant drone from the 40's, is to get rid that f them. As awesome as they sound at idle and WOT, the drone just stays at highway speed. I had to cut out a brand new set cuz I couldn't take it anymore. I installed hushmat throughout the car and even some extra cellular underlay in the hatch with the already stock underlay. The sound deadener will help with road noise etc. I encourage it. But will do nothing against the drone of those flowmasters.
    I originally has the 40's with a 2.5" off road h-pipe.
    In the end, I installed a set of metallic spun cats in the hpipe, and replaced the mufflers with dynamx vt mufflers.
    Drone completely gone at highway speeds, still loud at wot, a little more modular sounding at idle.

    I posted a thread about on here. Here is the link:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ax-VT-mufflers
    Last edited by danco86; 03-13-2017 at 12:46 AM.
    Dan

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-GT-restomod


    1986 Mustang GT Cobra
    Lotsa stuff, lotsa work. Check my thread above.

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    2012 F-150 Ecoboost Screw FX4

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    I know a gal that had flow masters on 89GT. Using an app for the iphone, it was 103db in the drivers seat.
    Dave

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  7. #7

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    Best way to ditch drone is to make the dual pipes different lengths and turn them down towards the ground. The relationship of the tone from each pipe to the other is what amplifies drone terribly.

    I run BBK equal shorties with MAC x pipe with cats. When my Mac cat back kits mufflers went I added series 40 2 chamber flowmasters into the old MAC cat back kit. It sounds pretty nice rear exit and only drones with bad selection of gear vs throttle position.

    I don't recommend doing the rest of this without insulating the gas lines but that MAC kit had an extra joint just behind and above the axle.

    pulling the tail pipes there then rotate the mufflers so the stubs direct exhaust towards the sides of the car is pretty good. Thunderous sound without being obnoxious. It also yields a very deep and nice exhaust note across the rev range while allowing the 5.0L to "talk" more than just a little bit. Sounds pretty muscular and there is no drone.

    100x better than no tail pipes. Hard to believe what 2 feet of pipe after the flow masters does to the sound! No wonder the newer Mustangs sometimes have that firecracker rap to them - they don't have anything after the muffler! Cheaters.....

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Lots of new cars have a type of neoprene sheet. They do trap moisture (barrier).
    Also sold for under shower stalls and bathtubs, etc
    Never the less, added some to mine.
    Too thin to stop sound, but insulates a little and dampens vibrations some.

    Tailpipes direct carbon monoxide (CO) and other unhealthy fumes away from the interior.
    Is one reason why new complete exhaust systems or components must pass factory leak tests and flow before shipping.
    Carbon monoxide is a toxic gas, but, being colorless, odorless, tasteless, and initially non-irritating, it is difficult for people to detect.

  9. #9

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    I generally keep a battery operated CO detector in my car after working on exhaust. Cheap assurance!

    Fact is CO can be a problem with dumps - especially if they are in front of the rear axle and the car is rusty in the floor or quarters.

    By the time you get to the back of the wheel arch your exhaust flows are a lot less risky - much less likely to be a problem.

    Ive ran with the stub pipes that exit at the wheel arch and no tailpipes. I've ran with dumps right at the mufflers. Right at the mufflers was *insanely* loud inside the car. Over 100 DB at 1000 RPM, 120 DB before 2000.

    My football team could hear me coming from over 2 miles away - in the city. No joke - insane nasty loud!

    Ive been beside a nascar in person while it's running and I can say first hand BBK equal shorties, Mac X pipe, and well worn 2 chamber 2.5" flow masters were short of a nascar level obnoxious but a lot closer to a nascar than one would ever think. My ears ring and hurt just thinking about how it sounded. Bad ass sounding but way too much given it came out of an E6 head 5.0L HO. Talk about a car with way more bark than bite!!

    Also dumps did result in fumes inside while at lights. Not terrible - under 8 ppm - but it was there.

    The pipe from muffler to wheel arch found in the MAC kit made the car VASTLY quieter-- as in several orders of magnitude. Also there were no measurable fumes inside the car.

    Good of point on CO. Forget noise - CO is the most important factor for your pipe layout.
    Last edited by erratic50; 03-14-2017 at 06:37 PM.

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