I guess we all have experienced something bad with duraspark or of u havent you will eventually. Heres an easy replacemente for the puke box, cause it literally does, it over heats and the seal on the back of it melts down.
Pros and cons are not gonna be adressed its a personal choice to use duraspark or hei, on my case i have way better experience with hei.
They both work similar, but heres my case, i wanted to control my timming under boost so i installed a boost timming master wich decreases timming advance under boost to desired 1,2,3 or 4 degrees per psi, up to 15 degrees total. Since i installed this my tach died, needed a tach adapter they run around for 60 bucks, my duraspark puked, plus its not a very nice small piece to have in the engine bay if u want to tuck wires to have a clean look.
One thing i liked about it it was the timming decrease on crank, still its not necesary on a low initial timming our engines require. This could work very well on big blocks with very high compression ratio and lots of timming with a crazy tight lobe cam separation, Not on a low comprension 4 banger with wide lobe cam separation.
Well enough said back to the swap.
You do use the stock dusraspark electronic distributor, the are 3 wires violet, orange and black.
Gm hei needs basically 4 wires, dielectric grease and a good ground where it can dispate heat.
It is a 4 pin deignated letters B, C, G, W.
B= COIL POS ACC SWITCH
C= COIL NEG
G= violet from distributor
W= orange form distributor
The black negative from the distributor you can pin it to the gm hei bolt holes in the middle of it.
Make sure to use a nice quality wires, dont attenp to use speaker wire and expect something going bad.
After the swap, my tach started working again, the car runs smoother on high rpms, probably cause i did change the coil to an msd blaster 2 coil.
Well hope this helps someone on the way, and yes i rather have a small spare gm hei in my tool box or ashtray than a big duraspark just in case.
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