Boxing lower control arms

[dagenham]

Has any one here ever just welded plates to the open part of the stock lower control arms just to be cheap or just because you could?
Opinions, suggestions on plate thickness? I was given a pair for free yesterday and i already have a pair of brand new boxed uppers. I don't necessarily have a particular use for them yet. Just kinda thinking out loud.

[erratic50]

Under load the stock arms are a wet noodle. It's not just the flex in the bars. It's also the flex in the ends and the give in the rotten 30+ year old rubber bushings.

Its going to help but it won't cure the problems that keep the rearend from planting.

If you love to weld, there's no major cost but I would not expect and miracles.

I would weld in battle boxes and go to tubular lowers if performance is your goal.

[ZephyrEFI]

Boxed uppers = binding and harsh ride.

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[Fastlane]

The Rubber bushing can be replaced, and I suppose you could box them, but you could probably replace them with some aftermarket type for not a whole lot more then the bushings would cost, and it would save a lot of work.

[qtrracer]

Have to understand why Ford made these arms the way the did. When the car goes into turns, the uppers perform two jobs: lateral axle control and axle rotational control. In order to do these two functions, not only do the uppers need to twist, the large soft bushings must allow the arms to "grow" and "shrink" in length. If you box the arms, the twist requirement is eliminated. Hence, the higher likelihood of bind. When the suspension binds, the wheel rate goes to infinity and the tires lose traction. Snap over-steer (usually resulting in in uncontrolled spin) is the result.

[Supersonic G.T.350]

Yeah you can box them and you can upgrade the bushings. I guess it would all depend on intended purpose? Might be an OK on the cheap go straight mod but a quality upper arm with him joints would be much better.

[Haystack]

The rear shocks were completely blown on my 88xr7. After I fixed the brakes I went out and tried to make sure they worked. Whenever I hit them hard, the car would just turn, seemingly randomly. I took my dad out and hit an empty highway road and hit the brakes at 40mph and almost ended up in a ditch. Looking at the skid marks, when the rear tires locked up, the rear axle twisted enough to spin the rear around.

Swapped out the rear shocks, stops straight as an arrow. They were so worn out, the weight momentum caused binding in the rear end. Or at least thats my take on it.

[wraithracing]

I personally wouldn't waste my time. Little to no improvement in most cases.

A quality set of aftermarket arms will be a much better idea. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/19...tang-C425.aspx

[dagenham]

Thanks for all the info guys. I was mostly just thinking out loud. It sounds like more a bad idea and waste of time than it's worth. I don't go racing or anything so you all have made up my mind for me.

[erratic50]

I will say if you've never taken out your bolts holding your control arms, no time like the present to pull them and coat everything with antiseize. I can tell everyone from first hand experience that cutting grade 10.9 bolts in order to swap control arms is an absolute chore. It take several high end blades and multiple hours per cut- you've been warned.

I wish I would have treated mine before it was too late. It's been a total pain.

[ZephyrEFI]

I will say if you've never taken out your bolts holding your control arms, no time like the present to pull them and coat everything with antiseize. I can tell everyone from first hand experience that cutting grade 10.9 bolts in order to swap control arms is an absolute chore. It take several high end blades and multiple hours per cut- you've been warned.

I wish I would have treated mine before it was too late. It's been a total pain.

I can vouch for this!

[FoxChassis]

I had to cut a front control arm bolt when swapping arms. Yes, total pain!

[erratic50]

One comment about this- the factory metal sleeves inside the rubber are not hardened steel and they have a seam all the way along their length that is not welded. If you do have stuck bolts a well place punch and a big hammer can force this sleeve to open slightly. Once this happens you can usually hold the sleeve with a well placed needle nose vise grip and get it to start spinning on the bolt again with an impact. This worked on some of my stuck bolts but not others.

Aftermarket arms usually have a steel sleeve that does not have this seam making it absolutely critical to treat these with tons of antiseize.

Also so if you burn the rubber out the collar expands more rapidly than the higher carbon grade 10.9 control arm bolts and sometimes a well placed hammer strike while it's hot will jar it loose.

If not, God bless as there will be a ton of cursing to beg for forgiveness for. My front control arm on the passenger side was an absolute nightmare due to corrosion! I don't want to know the hours I spent fighting with it but many across multiple weekends.

[dagenham]

Sounds like work for a hot wrench. Rubber stinks when it burns but it's worth it to avoid the headache.

[ashley roachclip]

I guess I have been lucky , weather by location , no pun intended , or general condition of my cars .
I have had both ends o it of both cars , and never even broke a sweat .
No salt , lots of rain, so just a water bath 8 months of the year intermittently.

I use copious amounts of anti-seize , as well as other chemicals like dielectric grease .