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  1. #1
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    Question 85 GT V8 Vert value?

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Size:  28.3 KB is in new mexico no rust interior is a little ripped but trans an engine are solid. he dropped his price from 4500 to 3k i talked him to 2800. his wife is making him sell it. we're both airforce active duty i just got to the base an loking for a toy to restore an play with. you guys agree with 2800? i think its a steal im from boston where guys are selling fox bodys or 5k with the frame so rusted your seat will fall out on the highway

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    its a 5 speed t-5 bone stock except the true dual flow master exhaust. only issues is the a/c not working an 1-2 syncro going if you shift over 4k rpm. im really on the fence about this one i love four eyes and ive been overseas for 3 years serving in japan. i had to leave my r32 skyline gtr there and i want to get back into the american carb muscle scene where i dont have to tinker with computers an can do all the work myself. please let me know what you guys think. this is my first of many posts on this site hopefully. thanks an god bless

  3. #3

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    Seems like a decent buy to me at 2800. A new T5 will run you around $1800 if you need one. A/C can be anywhere from a $100-500 fix. How's the top? If the rest of the car is ok, and the motor runs good. I'd say it's a good buy. Couldn't hurt to offer him 2500 though.
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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    I would say $2800 would be fair as long as it is rust free and mechanically sound.

    If the T-5 is a WC, then a simple and economical rebuild should do the trick.

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    top is only 2 years old he replaced the brakes an clutch a couple months ago. paint is old but as expected with the year. when i drove it i didnt hear any grinding or popped gears. no body flexing or leaks underneath either. i think im going to pull the trigger tomorrow. if the trans starts to go i figure i can rebuild it my self form what i researched t5 is pretty easy. never done a trans but i fix jet fighters every day how hard could it be minus the hydro press haha

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    You might want to submit a picture of the buck tag off of the radiator support and the sticker on the doorjamb to get a little more info about the car. I'm not an expert on all the options available for the GT in 1985, but it's been repainted so you can forgive the stripe missing on the hood (and it's easy enough to do if you want). I don't know if they did GT interiors without the sport seats (they have the "halo" headrest and adjustments at the front of the seat). It might be an LX with GT side moldings on it. Looks like the paint is coming off the trunk lid, though it could be the light reflecting off of it. The wheels aren't original to it, though it's very common to see the 10-holes swapped out (you either love them or hate them apparently).

    So, even if it needs a new transmission and even if it was an LX (and I'm not sure that it is), it's still a nice car for the money. If you're planning on repainting it, the car will need to be sanded down if the re-paint is peeling off now. That will be a bit more expensive. The 85 is the last year of the carb, which some folks really like, it's a 5-speed which folks really like, and it's a convertible. Those are all pluses for value. If it was an LX, the value isn't impacted a lot, but some folks will only want a GT (basically a stripe kit, different dash panel material, and at least usually the GT seats). In the 80s there wasn't much difference between the models other than cosmetic.

    I'm originally from NH, I can relate to those rusty cars. Living out in the desert is tough for a car guy, I'd want to buy everything I see!

  7. #7
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    yeah after looking at the gt's here im starting to wonder that myself about the hood decal. i tried uploading the other pics but failed. the car is an hr away from me an the only fox body ive seen for sale. going to meet the owner today an offer him 2500 ill update you guys with results. thank you all for youre help. i already feel like part of this community.

  8. #8
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    so i checked out the vin 1FABP27M2FF213505 all the tags were blank so i couldnt read them but it came back as a GT even says it on the title. now im trying to get a carfax but i dont want to pay the 40$ for one report any ideas?

  9. #9
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    so i broke down an did the carfax says it was in a accident in 2005 but i cant tell anything wrong. the current owner did know it had a accident either hes the 2nd onwner. so i got it for 2,500 still cant see the tags on the door or radiator support ill try again in the morning. let me know if you guys find anything fishy about this. i think i got a good deal an project for the next few years. glad to be apart of the four eyed community once again!!!!


    https://www.carfax.com/api/consumers...b093ee98bab426

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    The tag on the radiator support (if it's still there) is called the buck tag, it's made out of tin and usually screwed to the support someplace. Be sure to take a picture of it and if you can get at the sill sticker (it might have been painted over) and FoxChassis will decode it for you. You can order a Marti report which will tell you everything about the car (in terms of original options, where it was made and delivered, how many made with those options, stuff like that). Have fun with the car!

  11. #11

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    Don't know what VIN decoder you are using that told you it was a GT but it is not possible for a VIN decoder to do that . There is nothing in that VIN that can tell you whether it's an LX 5.0L convertible or a GT convertible. Both of those models have the same body code (27) and same engine code (M). State registration or title is the same thing...they have no way of knowing what is it from the VIN alone. Would be the same for a 5.0L hatchback (1FABP28M...).

    EDIT: The Carfax report properly identifies it as "LX/GT", as they have no idea which it is by the VIN alone.

    1985-86 GT convertibles could get non-halo headrest seats -- they were still Articulated Sport seats -- if they came with tu-tone interior (white seats and upper door panels, rest 'regular' color), which this car has. That was also the only way a GT convertible could get blue interior in 1985 or 1986 (door tag code "GQ", buck tag code "Q" or "-Q"). However, LX convertibles could also come with tu-tone interior so that alone is also not a way to validate the model.
    Last edited by FoxChassis; 01-17-2017 at 10:09 AM.
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  12. #12
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    is there any way the title would say GT without it actually being one? the first vin decoder i was using was some bs one that also said my car was a hatchback so im not putting much faith in that one. half the reason i paid for the carfax i kept getting weird results from ****ty free ones online. both the buck an door tag are seriously faded ill try to see if i can make out the lettering again later i really want to know more as in whats the original paint an if its a true GT like the seller kept swearing up an down even after the buy. he could be telling the truth or just made himself believe it. either way im already in love with the car an looking to convert the rear axle to 8.8 and 373 gears. then i think ignition kit, carb upgrade an short shifter would be nice quick additions. what do you guys think?thanks again for your input an help

  13. #13

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    States can put anything they want on the title. They have no idea what is really is unless they dig into it deeper. Insurance companies do it too. It's up to you to prove it to your ins co beforehand if you expect to get a GT replacement bumper after a collision, instead of an LX bumper cover because they claim it's an LX and that's what the policy has it as and that's what you're paying for.

    P27M and P28M can be LX or GT in 1984-86. P27F can be GLX or GT in 1983. P28F can be GL, GLX, or GT in 1983. P16F can be GL, GLX, or GT in 1982. There are cases where you can tell what the model is by the VIN alone but 5.0L convertible and 5.0L hatchback you cannot in 1982-86.

    I made a VIN decoder for this site: http://www.foureyedpride.com/content.php?151 You can trust it to be accurate.

    The buck tag may get crushed or scraped, making the codes unreadable, or the tag may get removed or broken off in an accident or repair, but it's a metal tag with punched codes and doesn't fade. Sometimes people either don't know where they are or can't find them if they do know where to look. It is located on the TOP-FRONT (not just the top) of the radiator "core" support (the frame the radiator bolts to) between the hood latch and the driver side headlamps. It is sometimes behind the "L" shaped bracket that holds the headlight header panel to the rad core support, so it is hard to find in the first place, and when you do find it it is hard to read unless you rotate it or remove it. The assembly line puts that tag on before anything else gets bolted to the rad core support. Since this is a 5.0L there is also a smaller bracket next to the "L" bracket for the power steering cooler line that will hide the tag even more.
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  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Colby85GT View Post
    ... either way im already in love with the car...
    This is all that matters.
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  15. #15

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    It runs, is a beautiful color and has a drop top. Have fun cruising around in it and don't worry too much about what it is and isn't, as unless you are planning on a full factory restoration to sell it - it doesn't matter anyway.
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  16. #16
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    thanks guys i really like the community here an how helpful everyone is. my blue demon is running strong with no issues so far. so im more than a happy camper. thanks again for all your help.

  17. #17

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    Did you locate the buck tag?

    The door tag could also tell you what model it is. Each model has unique codes for A/C and maybe INT TRIM (depends on whether the tu-tone interior seats and vinyl or leather).

    INT TRIM codes (1st letter only):
    C = white vinyl (LX or GT only)
    F = cloth non-sport (LX only)
    G = leather A/S (GT only)
    L = cloth A/S (SVO only)
    M = leather A/S (SVO only)
    P = cloth A/S (GT only)

    A/C code of a number is for GT only, a letter is for LX only, and blank is either an SVO or an LX with stripes deleted.
    Last edited by FoxChassis; 01-23-2017 at 02:11 PM.
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    hey guys been awhile, busy with the move and starting up at work. so its deff a gt i broke it all down using the decoder (thank you buck) also got a edelbrock 1406 600 carb off a pilot here for 200$ brand new. bad new is the 1-2 syncro is going , i think it overheas too but the temp gauge goes from almost over norm to middle. sometimes the oil will go to H as well. im getting quotes to rebuild the trans now ive been getting 750 for just labor from a greedy shop. just found a fellow vet who will help me out for 1k. the wife is a little upset that my first car here already needs work but at least the dogs love having the top down . headlights need adjusting, theres a small leak under the back of the engine ( or so i can tell) and the right valve cover is leaking as well. powersteering pully makes some noise when steering an the hood is up. buying the car i knew it was old an needs work, my wife an i both love the car knowing it will be a projecg an atleast ive got you guys to help along this long journey on a very small military paycheck.

  19. #19

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    Can you post pics of buck and door tsgs?
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  20. #20
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colby85GT View Post
    hey guys been awhile, busy with the move and starting up at work. so its deff a gt i broke it all down using the decoder (thank you buck) also got a edelbrock 1406 600 carb off a pilot here for 200$ brand new. bad new is the 1-2 syncro is going , i think it overheas too but the temp gauge goes from almost over norm to middle. sometimes the oil will go to H as well. im getting quotes to rebuild the trans now ive been getting 750 for just labor from a greedy shop. just found a fellow vet who will help me out for 1k. the wife is a little upset that my first car here already needs work but at least the dogs love having the top down . headlights need adjusting, theres a small leak under the back of the engine ( or so i can tell) and the right valve cover is leaking as well. powersteering pully makes some noise when steering an the hood is up. buying the car i knew it was old an needs work, my wife an i both love the car knowing it will be a projecg an atleast ive got you guys to help along this long journey on a very small military paycheck.

    Hey, this is all expected stuff when buying an old car. You only paid $2500 for it, so you can easily sink another $2k in it and if you needed to sell it quickly you could get your money back easily. It's a good place to be! That leak in the back of the engine is almost certainly your rear main seal. A $12 part with a million dollars in labor. When the shop takes the transmission out be sure they replace the rear main seal for you, the labor is almost entirely from taking the trans out...be sure they don't charge you book time to do that work, the time assumes the transmission is in the car, it should be cheap with the trans out.

    As for the overheating, don't trust the stock gauge, they're notoriously inaccurate. They used the same one for all different cars and years, which ran at different temps, so "normal" isn't the same from car to car. Buy a $20 mechanical Sunpro gauge at any local parts store and clip it to the bottom of the driver's side dashboard where you can see it but it's out of the way. Keep your old sending unit and tie off the wire in the engine bay so you can reconnect it later. The mechanical gauge will tell you EXACTLY the temperature of your engine so you can tell if you have a problem or not. If you want the original gauge to work, once you're comfortable that it's not really overheating (drive it for a few months with the new gauge so you can see how it performs under different conditions) then simply put in the original sending unit and plug it back in. Cheap and easy, and you don't need to drill any holes anywhere (there are a few places in the cowl where you can fish the sending cable through). I see lots of guys struggle with replacing tons of parts when they didn't need to, because they didn't actually know how hot their engine was running, save yourself the time expense and trouble.

    Try topping off the power steering pump with fluid to see if the squeak goes away, if it's not covered with oil it might just be a little low. Probably should replace the belts anyway as well, unless they look new. Pretty much everything on the car is cheap to fix, except the transmission unless you can do that yourself (most of us can't). That rear main is a PIA unless you have access to a lift, so you'll want that replaced no matter what when the transmission comes out.

    Have fun with it!

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    thanks for the quick response im very glad this si all normal. i know this wasnt the ideal car to buy when i first got to base but where i live this deal is just too good to pass up. thanks you ill deff have them replace that seal the guy seems like a straight shooter but i just talked with him over the phone im driving 45 mins away tomrrow to his shop to talk with him in person. i could take out the trans an rebuild it myself using a video. then wait on parts, find a press to put it all together. i just dont have the time or afford the risk of doing it wrong. im thinking of doing a coolant flush seems like it hasnt been done in awhile. the alternator an belts seem new an shiny the powersteering fulid seems in the norm but ill put a little more in it. ive attached the door an buck tag and a screen shot of the completed decoder.Name:  IMG_0383.jpg
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  22. #22
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    just took another look theres a small coolant leak at the bottom of the driverside radiator cant tel if its teh hose or the radiator itself. opened the cap an the radiator is all brown so im going to do a flush later on an put a 50/50 mix in. on these cars do you put it straight into the radiator? the only reserve i see for coolant is the half it shares with washer fluid. as for the power steering i dont notice a noise but the passnger side and right valve cover is covered in crud deff oil just cant tell if its from the valve seal thats deff going bad or the pump. i expected all this when buying im just getting some advice from you good men who deal with this alot. thanks in advance

  23. #23
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    Leaks and drips are going to be common until you get to know the car and what is a big deal and what isn't. Get some Gunk and clean everything up, and you'll see where the problems are coming from. Parts for this car are cheap, and used ones (where used parts make sense) are pretty easy to find at junkyards too. It's going to take a bit of time, but except for the transmission, you can do pretty much all of it yourself in your spare time while you drive it.

    The belts probably shouldn't be shiny, that's actually a sign of wear. You can ask the original owner when they changed all this stuff, if it was recent then keep them, otherwise new belts are pretty cheap and easy to replace. Clean it up and drive it for a while (I would replace the temp gauge for a while though) and then replace things that it needs. Have fun with it!

  24. #24
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    I think you got a good deal on that four eyed vert. That white leather interior makes the car fairly rare as the vert was the only way you could get the leather option, and most chose the charcoal leather. Most cringe at that big sea of white leather but I have found it to be cool and easy on your skin on the hot summer days and amazingly easy to keep clean. This one is obviously a repaint, but look around in the engine compartment and see if you can tell what the original color the car was. It appears to be a 3V Light Regatta Blue original color...and if so should be purdy uncommon sought after color combo. Does this car have any history in Texas? I was looking at this same year, color, etc. combo car in central Texas several years ago...
    Last edited by bwguardian; 02-08-2017 at 10:04 AM.
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    Nice California car.
    Last edited by Bryan Knebworth; 02-09-2017 at 09:32 PM.

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