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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    Question Installing a new Rack and Pinion questions

    I am currently installing my new power rack and pinion system in my RS and am having a terrible time getting the send and return hoses installed back on the system. Is there a trick to getting these hoses back on the rack? I currently have the rack completely installed and the only thing left to do is install the hoses and I can't seem to get them on there. One hose always seems to be in the way no mater which one you install first!

    Any help would be much appreciated,

    Robedrt
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  2. #2

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    I found it much easier on my SVO, to install the hoses on the rack, install rack, and then connect the other end of the hoses.
    86 SVO 2R Comp Prep
    86 SVO 9L Comp Prep
    86 SVO 7B Comp Prep

  3. #3

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    What he said. Start the hoses (but not tighten them) and THEN tighten down the rack.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    That's what I was afraid of

    I had a feeling that is what I was going to have to do but I just wanted to see if there was any tricks that I might be able to use so I didn't have to tear it all apart again LOL

    Robert
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Ya don't have to take it all the way out again.

    Watched the Ford dealer mechanic do mine once when the pressure hose failed in the 80's.
    Raised car on hoist.
    Disconnected rag joint
    The outer tie rods were left connected to the spindles.
    Removed the two rack to cross member bolts.
    Lowered rack.
    With the rack dropped away from cross member, there is ample space to wrench the fitting(s).

    Leaving outer tie rods connected suspended/held the rack while the main bolts were out.
    The fittings have to be tightened before final install and tightening of rack mount bolts.
    Last edited by gr79; 01-16-2017 at 11:03 AM.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Great advise gr79. Works great if you can get the rack bolts to slide back into the K member. I wasn't so lucky on the passenger side on mine.

    Having the rack slid forward while the PS pump is off the car also works great.

    Be sure to add an inline filter. Autozone and Advance Auto both have one that's the same that they recommend when swapping racks. Also a great time for a new high pressure line and a new return line and a better cooler.

    Also consider outer tierod ends.

    If your PS pump is noisy it's likely releasing debris into your rack. Replace it.

    Use synthetic PS fluid

    welcome to silent operation.
    Last edited by erratic50; 01-17-2017 at 05:11 AM.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Replaced it all as a matched unit assembly. That is what i did
    Cardone rack (sport 15:1)
    all new hoses
    ps pump to match rack
    new outer tie rods
    filter
    regular type f fluid
    no noise, hissing, moan, groan- sticking, nothing- cold or hot weather.
    Smooth just like when the car was new.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Agreed - totally awesome.

    Great time to under drive the PS pump too. I did mine via the usual under drive crank pulley and small alternator pulley but if I had it to do again my preference would have been to source a matching small water pump pulley or just stop with an oversized PS pump drive pulley.

    I will say between the new free spinning pump and the under drive it definitely freed up a bunch of power. More than AC on (before it disengages) vs off by a long shot..

    Feel is great. It's a dead silent operation to turn now too.

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