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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Default Dash removal and eliminating pointless wiring

    I've decided to tackle another project. Years of storage, and mouse feces inside the car, forced my hand at cleaning this up. I won't go into the dash removal here, as it's been covered before. Once the dash pad is removed, it's like 10 bolts, and the dash is in your lap for a heater core change. I've never tackled one before, but it isn't that bad.

    This is was a fully optioned 83 GT with power everything, air, and cruise. I have eliminated the cruise, and air. Now I need to start cleaning up any pointless wires. Looking at the cruise module, I bet that's 20 wires right there. I'll document everything, and if you want to add, please feel free.

    All I want is heat, and the stuff to keep it legal.
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  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I cleaned up my wiring harnesses for my 79 the same way. The car had few options originally, but the harness had lots of unused wires for the uninstalled option. i also did aftermarket gauges, EFI and ignition systems so I eliminated the original wiring for all that and replaced them with the new wiring.

    I suggest getting some proper wiring harness wrap without adhesive as it is much better long term than using electrical tape to re-wrap the harness. I used a lot of zip ties to secure the wires in the bundles and removed them as I re-wrapped the harness.

  3. #3
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    home depot sells friction tape I highly recomend it
    85 GT T-Top, GT40P Explorer longblock, Holley 600cfm carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap, TFS Stage 1 cam, Ford racing gt40p shorty headers.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    For wrapping wiring harnesses, I have had excellent success using linerless rubber splicing tape. Once wound around the harness, it will never come off or get sticky as it fuses to itself without adhesives. Not only that, it offers excellent abrasion resistance. It does make life miserable if you have to take the harness apart for tracing though as it doesn't unwrap like most other options.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

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  5. #5
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    This is what I use when rebuilding an automotive wiring harness. Works great NONE adhesive and looks original IF that is our goal.

    This type of harness tape is about 1 1/4 inches wide which is what you generally see OEM on our older cars. This none adhesive harness tape is not 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch like your typical electrical tape.

    This product also makes it much easier to repair the harness at a later time if needed and then replace the harness tape at that time as needed.

    https://www.lectriclimited.com/repai...ess-tape-88779

    I am sure a similar/same product is available from other suppliers or your local electrical supply house.
    Last edited by vintageracer; 01-01-2017 at 07:23 PM.
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

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  6. #6
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Your timing on this thread is excellent! Lol
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    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    When fabricating a custom harness using a Painless type harness kit or other brand I use the none stick wiring harness tape referenced in my post above the then use the appropriate size Techflex over the wiring runs.

    I love the GM "Weather-Pak" connectors for terminating ends on a new wiring harness. Once you get the proper tools and the hang of using Weather-Pack connectors you won't use anything else on a custom or fabricated wiring harness. Weather-Pak connectors makes it easy to make modular types of wiring harness's that allows the harness to be easily removed or serviced. This is exactly what I did on my Vintage Race Cars.

    Techflex looks great over the wiring harness and adds a margin of safety in high chaffing areas.

    Here is an example of Techflex:

    https://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0...8XS2EAZQBA5JEH
    Last edited by vintageracer; 01-01-2017 at 07:22 PM.
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

    www.musclecardeals.com


  8. #8
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianj View Post
    Your timing on this thread is excellent! Lol
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    Quick someone get me some spaghetti sauce

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    This is what I eliminated out of mine.


  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    This is what I eliminated out of mine.

    good grief. Did you keep anything?

  11. #11

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    Omg, brother, that gives me a headache, lol!
    1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
    95 Cobra, Crystal White

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Time to get started. I believe my first course of action, is stripping off the old wrap to the wires still on the firewall, and engine bay harness. Then, figuring out what I don't have anymore, removing it, keep a log, and then move onto the dash. Name:  IMG_3720.jpg
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  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    I remove the cruise control, and BOY what a mess of wires. Question though, the speed control box has a green wire running from it, connected to the gray connector, and running to the black connector, which is powered by Green Red Hash from the fuse panel, running to the brake switch. If I'm not mistaking I can clip the green wire running to the gray connector and eliminate a connector here, right? I'm assuming this is to shut the cruise off with the brake pedal.Name:  IMG_3739.jpg
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  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Scratch eliminating that gray connector. It plugs into the clutch switch. Now to figure out what to do with it, once it's removed from the speed control box.

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    Scratch eliminating that gray connector. It plugs into the clutch switch. Now to figure out what to do with it, once it's removed from the speed control box.
    Not having a diagram in front of me I might be wrong here, but I would think that the whole deal could be eliminated as it would function as the cutouts for the speed control. I would think that it should be tied into both the clutch pedal and brake pedal to disable the cruise if either is pushed down. I would be inclined to believe that is the only function of that harness and would not affect the operation of anything else if eliminated. I wouldn't think that it would tie into the brake light system or the push clutch to start system.

    Again, I did not look a diagram but I would study that a bit closer on yours to verify that is the case. I could always be wrong and it happens regularly LOL.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #16
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    After further digging, Brock, you were onto something. All I need to keep, is the brake light switch, and the black plug it is attached to. The rest? Straight to the garbage.

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    After further digging, Brock, you were onto something. All I need to keep, is the brake light switch, and the black plug it is attached to. The rest? Straight to the garbage.
    Who would have thunk it.....
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  18. #18
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    I haven't even cracked open the heater box yet. Name:  IMG_3725.jpg
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    But, I've been making a dent, that's for sure. What until you see the hack stereo job the PO did. Name:  IMG_3749.jpg
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  19. #19
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Ugh! I hate mice......and wire hacking PO's.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  20. #20

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    Slightly old thread any updates? I'm working on the same stuff, it's been 10+ years since I've messed with a mustang.. OMG the splice lock connection I've found on my new to me 83 is mind boggling!!
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  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    This is was a fully optioned 83 GT with power everything, air, and cruise. I have eliminated the cruise, and air. Now I need to start cleaning up any pointless wires. Looking at the cruise module, I bet that's 20 wires right there. I'll document everything, and if you want to add, please feel free.

    All I want is heat, and the stuff to keep it legal.
    Since I'very added air conditioning I have the non a heater box from my 83 which I would happily send to you along with controls and right dash panel (which only has one vent) for a simple trade for the right side dash panel with 2 vents sent back to me. I already have the wiring done in my car for the ac... I just need the face plate with the 2 vents. If your intrested in lite and simple, maybe we can help each other. I'm in ohio.
    Last edited by foot2floor; 09-16-2017 at 06:38 PM.

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