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  1. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    My multimeter has an inductive pickup, but I've never used it.
    Those can only be used for AC current, unless it's a Hall-effect probe (which costs more than most multimeters).

  2. #52
    FEP Member BDASPNY's Avatar
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    Feb 2014
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    hampton roads, va
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    You'll love that fan and controller. I have them on mine and it works PERFECT!

    even with a trans cooler, AC condenser, rad and then the fan. Has kept it all cool for years even through many mustang weeks where the temps and traffic are hellish!

  3. #53

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    Alright then, I guess I won't be using the inductive pickup for that!

    Quote Originally Posted by BDASPNY View Post
    You'll love that fan and controller. I have them on mine and it works PERFECT!

    even with a trans cooler, AC condenser, rad and then the fan. Has kept it all cool for years even through many mustang weeks where the temps and traffic are hellish!
    Good to hear! I'm looking forward to not having to worry about any of that. I go to Street Machine Nationals here, and get the same kind of traffic situation.

    I'm rather proud of this. I wanted to keep the original sticker that came on the fan, but it would have been cut off in a funny way after I cut the shroud down. This was my solution. Just cut the French part off!



    I got around to cutting down the shroud today, and this was the resulting test fit.



    The thing is cut down to as far as I dare go. 15/16" cut off. Yeah... not sure what I'm going to do now. I think there's a bit of wiggle room to move the bottom of the radiator towards the front of the car, but I don't know if that's going to do it...
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  4. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    I ran a taurus fan two speed and liked it alot. I ended up wiring to a switch cause i kept burning up speed controllers. Only time i used high is when i forgot to turn on the low speed. It was adequate on low pretty much always, though this was on a car with 300+k miles. Not souped up or anything.
    Alright, so you have a Taurus fan now? Did you have to make major adjustments to make it fit? I remember when i had an SN95 fan it was dang close, but still cleared.

    I'm starting to think more about what i can do about this. I was thinking there was some room to move the bottom of the radiator forward, but there really isn't without modifying mounts. It shouldn't be too bad to move the condenser forward, but the radiator sits behind the core support, so that wouldn't really do much good anyway.

    I was thinking maybe there is some wiggle room in the k-member and engine mounts, but probably not much, i suppose. Any thoughts anyone? I just don't understand why my engine seems to be sitting a good inch farther forward than most pics of Mark VIII fans in Foxes I've seen around the web. I know I have an aftermarket k-member (QA1), but they wouldn't make the engine sit farther forward. That would be WORSE for handling balance. Really scratching my head, here. I'd really like to make this work, but I'm coming up blank with solutions.

    The only other thing i can think of is maybe an F/Z's core support sits more rearward than a Mustang's. Can anyone take a measurement from the firewall to the core support on their Mustang?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #55

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    Okay, here's my measurement.

    From here


    To here


    About 39 inches on the nose. I'm very curious what the Mustang is.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #56

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    The foxes "should" all be the same, door frame forwards until the air bag cars.

    I didnt trim my fan at all, it has some rubbery stuff along the edges. I utilized the stock rad lower clips (think i had to move them a bit) and then i used two black zip ties through the radiator.

    The big problem is where the electric motor is centered, id guess i had less then 1" to the waterpump pulley. When i swapped mine on, the fan clutch came apart on the freeway and ate the whole fan/shroud assembly, amazingly, it didnt hurt the radiator or water pump. I pulled all the bits of plastic off and grabbed what was left of the fan, took the metal shaft for the fan clutch off and put just the pulley back on and continued on my way to work.

    When i called to an autoparts store, it was $180 for the fan clutch and fan so i went to the junkyard and bought a cheap taurus alt ($13) and wired that and the fan up in the parking lot at the junkyard.

    I do know motor mounts changed a bit here and there, id guess the motor is sitting a bit lower. If you have the fan mounted at the center of the rad (mine was about 2" too narrow, so i slid it to one side) it will put the center of the electric motor right in line with the waterpump pulley.

    You could always try a nissian sentra/mini van fan or the ford contour dual fan setups, they should clear by a mile.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  7. #57
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Jan 2015
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    Barboursville, WV
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    1,773

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    Are you sure your motor mounts are on correctly? Putting them on the wrong sides will result in the engine sitting too far forward. I found this out a few weeks ago, while putting the motor in my pace car. I was having header clearance issues and figured I'd try swapping the motor mounts after looking up pics on LMR's website. I was using their solid mounts, which aren't marked left/right.

  8. #58

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    Interesting about the engine mounts. No, I'm not sure they are right. I know i replaced them at one point, and i had to cut the dowels off to make them fit. I'll look into that!

    I'm motivated to make this fan work because, since i got it on ebay, i paid through the nose for it.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #59

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    Could someone post the measurement to the core support anyway just so I know? I know the piece itself is different. It's taller to mate up with the different apron pieces forward of the strut towers on an F/Z.

    Maybe this can be my excuse to finally go to the LTD nose.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #60
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    Jan 2003
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    lansing, mi
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    My Capri looked like it was 39-3/8". If this can't be made to work, you may want to look into a fan from 1998 Volvo s70 or the like. They are removable from the shroud, and pretty narrow if memory serves.

    Cale

  11. #61

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    3/8 inch, huh? That might be significant!

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #62

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    Core support sure looks kinda wavy to my untrained eye...

    Get a wood block and a sledge around the radiator mounts. Also try offsetting the fan to kne side of the radiator, this will change the center line between the closest points of the motor/waterpump pulley.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  13. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Core support sure looks kinda wavy to my untrained eye...

    Get a wood block and a sledge around the radiator mounts. Also try offsetting the fan to kne side of the radiator, this will change the center line between the closest points of the motor/waterpump pulley.
    I think what you're seeing as waves is a relief for a washer or something. There's one on the other side in the same spot. Some F/Zs had this weird hood seal on the core support, so I think that's what that might be for.

    This pic, i have the fan sitting on top of the water pump pulley. You can see pretty well that there isn't much room for offsetting with this huge thing.

    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #64

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    Okay, guys. Here again is the pic from the post above that those cheap a**holes at photobucket have decided you don't need to see.

    It's of the fan sitting on top of the water pump pulley, clearly showing there's not enough space.

    Now, here's the new part. I had thought maybe F/Zs have slightly different engine bays or core supports (the core supports ARE different, but not as different as I thought), so it wouldn't allow a Mark VIII fan to fit in one. Well, guess what I saw at the show this past weekend. A Fairmont with a Mark VIII fan.


    Look at all that space! Now, I do notice that he has a thinner radiator, similar to the one I had before (that burst on me). Is it JUST my 3-core radiator that's keeping me from having this? I haven't explored the backwards engine mount theory yet, just wanted to post this new development.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  15. #65

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    Pound in the front lip of the core support and slot the radiator tie down holes.

    That pic you just posted looks identicle to my taurus fan on my 86 cougar as far as spacing goes. I had a cheap $80 parts store aluminium rad ordered for a mustang. It was about half as thick as the brass one. I did later throw the brass on back in and it cleared fine, but was much closer then i liked.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  16. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Pound in the front lip of the core support and slot the radiator tie down holes.

    That pic you just posted looks identicle to my taurus fan on my 86 cougar as far as spacing goes. I had a cheap $80 parts store aluminium rad ordered for a mustang. It was about half as thick as the brass one. I did later throw the brass on back in and it cleared fine, but was much closer then i liked.
    Yeah, I could do that. I've had similar ideas floating around in my head too such as building a custom core support (at least the part the radiator sits behind) or slicing it in half so I could make the radiator sit farther forward. I'd hate for it to end up looking hacked though.

    My k-member allows for you to put the engine 1" farther back, but I hate to think of all the things that would affect like exhaust, driveshaft, shifter hole, etc, etc. Anyone done that? How bad is it?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  17. #67

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    I've installed a MKVIII fan in several fox body cars, including an 87 with a V2. You do need to trim the fan shroud and notch the radiator support. IMO if clearance is a concern, I would just go with a Contour dual fan which is much thinner and moves sufficient air to keep my 500hp 1990 cool.

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  18. #68

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    I honestly wish i would have gone with a contour setup now. I would have wired it up so one fan was always on and one would come on when hot. That way you would even have a fall back fan if one of the two died on ya, plus the extra room.

    The big single fan just centers the motor in the place with the least amount of room.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  19. #69

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    I'm not after "sufficient".

    Seriously though, I've already got the thing, so I'd like to use it. It's just astounding to me that other people have enough room somehow, but I don't. It's good to know that others have had to notch the core support though.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  20. #70

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    If you're dead set on running that fan then why not get a shorter water pump? It would be a whole lot less work than moving the entire drivetrain back.

  21. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrriggs View Post
    If you're dead set on running that fan then why not get a shorter water pump? It would be a whole lot less work than moving the entire drivetrain back.
    Didn't even know that was an option. How does that affect the rest of the accessory drive? You need to get different brackets and stuff?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  22. #72

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    Hmmm, this is what I was thinking of; https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...351s/overview/ but it is a standard-rotation pump. If you could find one like this in a reverse-rotation then you could just swap the pump and water pump pulley and everything else could stay the same.

  23. #73

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    Didn't the later model 5.0 have a shorter reverse-rotation pump? You would need to change the front cover to use one, but with a custom water pump pulley you shouldn't have to change any of the brackets or accessories. That would probably be cheaper than the aftermarket "shorty" pump. Plus, you'd be able to find a replacement pump anywhere you happen to break down.

    "They" probably don't make a water pump pulley to use early accessories with a later pump but that is a pretty simple part to make. I've got a lathe and would be happy to help you out.

  24. #74

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    A ford explorer/94-95 Mustang or 91-93 cougar/tbird 5.0 would all be about 3/4" shorter. But they you would need to change every pulley and accessories plus engine brackets. I stick by my slotting the mounting brackets comment.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  25. #75

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    A ford explorer/94-95 Mustang or 91-93 cougar/tbird 5.0 would all be about 3/4" shorter. But they you would need to change every pulley and accessories plus engine brackets. I stick by my slotting the mounting brackets comment.
    Yep, that's still on the table.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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