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  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    PS Walking-Tall, aint gettin at ya, love your 3.8 emissions removal too, especially on what was the only bad system Ford ever made, the 3.8 set up....At least you don't have emmissions wasps in your state for 30+ y/o cars...If some one from Ford would please like to explain why they made the 82 to 86 era 3.8 system so bad......if it wasn't bad, your car would be doing sub 18 second 1/4 miles and 30 mpg like all V6's should.
    There are a variety of emissions wasps in Canada's provinces, and they focus all their attention onto 1988-and-newer stuff. That suits me swell, as you won't ever find me behind the wheel of anything newer than ~'85, for a number of reasons and a couple bad experiences with said (corrupt) Nazis. I don't know what my Mustang will do in the 1320 (it's no powerhouse, and I've never been concerned with that department), but it certainly runs and drives and consistently acts and behaves better any given day/time/temperature/weather than it ever did, or I'd guess than any 3.8 does as-is factory-wise and working "good", and the 32 mpg average it got on it's last long trip is icing on the cake and are great reasons to switch to and dial in a carburetor if you're able to "legally".
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 03-11-2017 at 03:52 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  2. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mgino757 View Post
    Until I change the cylinder heads, this fox will have a working smog pump system.
    And it could still have one after the head swap, though possibly not the way Ford intended. Lot of newer cars use the
    air pump system only to get the cats heated up sooner. And rather than squirt air into all of the exhaust ports, they
    just do one on each side. That's pretty easy to replicate on a set of Windsor heads, whether factory or aftermarket.

    Oh, and the bit about the vacuum switch part numbers was not so much about finding plug-and-play solutions, though
    that is certainly preferable. But the bigger point is, once you know which style you need, you can combine parts to make
    something that fits, and works like it's supposed to.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  3. #28
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    Well, I've got the thermactor system all hooked up. The only thing I don't have is the vacuum check valve that's supposed to go in the vacuum hose going to the TAB valve from manifold vacuum. I'm also using a black body vacuum switch on the driver side strut tower. It's not the right color, but it's what I could find.

    One problem...is it a problem? After being heavy on the throttle and letting off with RPM above, say, 1300 rpm, I get some moderate to light back firing in the exhaust for maybe 2 or 3 seconds. Is this due to me missing a piece of the thermactor control system?

    The way I have it routed on the TAB solenoid is lower port is connected to manifold vacuum with a white/black vacuum delay valve in line, upper port connected straight to the air dump valve. On the TAD solenoid, I have the upper port connected to EGR vacuum with a black/brown vacuum delay valve. The same delay valve controls the canister purge valve, meaning I have the TAD upper port tee'd into the canister purge valve signal. The lower port of the TAD solenoid is connected to the diverter valve.
    Last edited by Mgino757; 03-28-2017 at 09:54 PM.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  4. #29

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    Name:  TADTABsolenoids.jpg
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    Do your solenoids look like this ?
    Ford describes these as "normally open solenoids valves with vent".
    When de-energized the valve should pass air.
    When energized the top port is blocked off and the bottom port is vented to atmosphere.

    Determine which port does what in stead of going by top or bottom.
    You want the port that gets "blocked off" connected to the vacuum "source".
    The port that gets vented to atmosphere connects to the "device" (the dump valve or diverter valve).

    Do you have the original emissions label under the hood to go by ? Maybe Ford changed this from '83 to '85 ?
    Anyway, on my '83, the thermactor system, EGR valve and charcoal canister purge systems all run off carburetor "EGR" vacuum port.
    None of them are connected to manifold vacuum.

  5. #30
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    My TAB solenoid has both ports facing the driver side on the side of the solenoid. De-energized, it does not allow air to pass through. I connected it per my underhood sticker. The only other thing I don't have is the green thermal vacuum valve anymore due to changing the intake manifold. So, the thermactor system is always active, even with a cold engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mgino757 View Post
    Last edited by Mgino757; 03-29-2017 at 09:38 PM.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  6. #31
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    Any inputs on this issue?
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  7. #32
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    I'm still looking to resolve my issue. My TAB solenoid is good, but not energizing when electrically connected. So, it will not allow manifold vacuum to be applied to the bypass valve in the thermactor system. If I leave the electrical connector off of the TAB solenoid, the TSAD module provides a ground for two minutes as it should. As soon as I connect the TAB solenoid, I lose ground. I verified that my WOT switch is good. The wiring going from the TSAD module to the TAB solenoid works as it should with no shorts or opens in the circuit. Has my TSAD module crapped out? Is there another piece of the puzzle I'm missing?

    Edit: the only thing I haven't done was check the coolant temperature sensor on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Any ideas on what resistance values I should be looking for at certain temperatures?
    Last edited by Mgino757; 02-04-2018 at 11:13 PM.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  8. #33
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  9. #34
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    Tested my ECT sensor last night after posting. At just past room temperature coolant temperature, the sensor was reading 23.6K ohms. Looks like the sensor is still good. Key on engine off, the plug was giving a 4.57v reference. I wonder if my TSAD bit the dust. It's starting to look that way unless I'm overlooking something.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  10. #35
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    I just bought every single Ford repair manual for the car. Hopefully some of that literature will point me in the right direction. Also have a spare TSAD module on the way.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  11. #36
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    Strangely, I unplugged the coolant temperature sensor on the heater tap and the TAB solenoid started working on it's own again.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

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