I have an 86 gt convertible. Has mass air conversion and stock bottom end. I'm looking to add some power and get rid of the restrictive heads. Looking at trick flow or sve kit. Any preferences or advice?
I have an 86 gt convertible. Has mass air conversion and stock bottom end. I'm looking to add some power and get rid of the restrictive heads. Looking at trick flow or sve kit. Any preferences or advice?
I don't have any experience with the SVE heads, but my guess is they are China copies of Trick Flow or others. Most likely don't have the same quality in the aluminum, valves, springs, guides, etc.
Bottom line, I am a bargain shopper too, but I don't think this is where I would try to save some $$. I would spend the money and get some quality heads that you know are going to do the job.
Best of luck!
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
I'd go with the Trick Flow, but opt for the bigger combustion chambers. Be careful with the PTV clearance.
1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.
1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater
I know the trick flow heads will clear the pistons but not sure with the cam that comes with the kit.
I read about people having to tune the car after doing mods like this. Is a shop able to tune the a9L computer? I don't understand what the tuning would be.
A9L computers need chips for reprogramming. If everything else is stock with just a head swap, than most likely you won't need one. You can get it fine tuned though with a chip to get better timing curves and fuel trims, if the guy doing it is really good. Like I've stated before, EEC IV are harder to tune, due to needing good equipment to log data while testing. OBDII is very easy to data log compared to EEC IV.
I've read several places that the LMR SVE heads are actually Pro Comp heads. No definite evidence, just talk. Seems plausible given the asking price and lack of any meaningful specs/component list.
The prices are fairly attractive. But I, in particular, don't like the way they seem to be marketed.
The "6049" part number seems to be a call towards the ford racing "m-6049" head designation. I also don't like the "SVE" designation.
It all seems like trying to fool someone into thinking there's an "SVT" and "M-6049" connection.
I don't mind a company trying to make a buck, but I don't like being "fooled" into buying something. I'd have no problem buying a set of pro comps if they had been gone through and I knew what the valve train was.
Pro comp heads aren't horrible, they apparently come out somewhere around a GT40 copy in aluminum type of thing.
The problem with SVE (or any other rebranded head) is "loaded" heads at 600-700 bucks. The problem is the valve springs, keepers, valve guides, seats and the valves themselves come under a question of quality. Bare pro comp heads can be had for around 500 bucks. Quality valve train components can easily cost that much again. So loaded heads for 600-700 bucks? See where I'm going?
Last thing you want is questionable valve train where it strips a keeper and drops a valve.....
Many have reported that Pro comp heads performed adequately, but only after they had corrected some casting issues, port work and installing a quality valve train.
Of course, you're up to around where a quality set of heads would cost you in the first place by that point.
Skip white on eBay markets pro comps at reasonable prices, but lists the valve train components they use. It at least seems they built the bare casting with decent components. I have considered actually buying a set off them. Still china heads, but (hopefully) gone through and set to right before selling them....
I came close to dropping a couple G on a set of AFR's this year too. But I decided to put that money into the suspension and chassis instead. Car needed it there more right now rather than all in the engine bay.
Please note that all this aluminum head info comes from my own reading and researching. I haven't bought a set of heads yet....
Last edited by great white; 12-05-2016 at 12:30 PM.
How do you all feel about putting the trick flow package on my stock Original short block. It doesn't smoke and runs strong. Think it will take the extra stress in its original 100k mileage condition?
I'd say go ahead if it's in good shape. Stock internals are fine for the power level you'll make bolting on heads, intake and a cam. Depending on exactly what you go with you'll wind up in the 300 HP 340 TQ neighborhood and a stock block will do just fine there. Piston to valve clearance may be an issue but it's easily corrected and can even be done with the block still in the car.
'85 GT
In that "neighborhood", to the rear wheels if we're talking a 5 speed. Auto will take away more. Could be within +-15 depending on the dyno, exact combo, etc.
Many threads on the net with dyno numbers of TF combos.
'85 GT
I have TFS set up with track heat intake and Stage 1 TFS cam on my stock 86 short block 92K miles. My car runs with mass air conversion with A9L, 70mmTB, 24lb injectors, walbro 255,BBK CAI, BBK Shortys, Offroad H pipe. I'm sure it would run better with a Dyno tune. IMO it runs great and I use it daily in Summer.
Ever run it down the quarter? Does it feel more powerful and snappy from off idle up to higher rpm? I drove a fox one time that was like a wet noodle until it hit 3500 rpm and then it would honk. I didn't really like that. Rather have tire spinning power from 1000 rpm up.
No smoke means guides, seals and the pistons' oil rings are okay. Shouldn't be stress at all. Depends on good or bad the first 100K miles was, maintenance-wise. Questions I would want the answers to are: 1. What's it's hot oil pressure at idle and above, with a mechanical gauge reading actual PSI? What's it's cylinders' compression test pressure numbers at, "dry"? (if compression test pressures get better with adding oil to the cylinders, the "wet" compression test, then this conversation's over before it begins due to compression rings on their way out. Of course, low "dry" readings could be from leaky valves or gaskets, but you're taking the heads off at some point anyways, right? Any leaky valves/seats/gaskets can be seen then) IMHO, I'd arm yourself with those answers for at least an informed basis before taking any leaps.
Mike
1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
1983 Mercury Cougar LS
1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
1980 Capri RS Turbo
Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/
Haha, I guess some people are more worried than I would be. I put a single plane, 650 Demon, long headers, comp 276hr and all the other goodies on the stock 230k 85 short block in my 85. I then proceeded to torture it to 6500 every chance I got. What a good lil engine that was, lol!
1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
95 Cobra, Crystal White
...was. lol
I've considered doing this on mine with somewhere in the neighborhood of 250,000 miles. I wouldn't skimp out on the quality, like others have said.
Now, this is certainly an apples to oranges comparison, but I've had a set of Trick Flow heads dropped on a 160,000 original mile 4.6L short block and then proceeded to punish it for another 40,000 miles until the car was totaled when I got T-boned. It was pushing 11.2:1 compression and made 279rwhp through an auto and IRS with the heads being the only power modification on the car. The point is, don't be afraid of dropping some hot heads on a good >100,000 mile motor. Also, Trick Flow uses good valve train components on their complete heads. As some live by, you get what you pay for.
1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.
1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater
Was... Yes, it still ran when I sold the car. It was definitely good to me.
1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
95 Cobra, Crystal White
Fwiw to the op I would go Trick Flow. In the end the resale value on those heads is much better than anything Chinese... And I'm certain the SVE heads are Chinese Procomp heads. The castings I've been told are OK and will perform really well with port work but I don't think you really want to invest in the castings and then build the heads with quality parts, it's just not cost effective. Besides that your best bet for actually clearing pistons is going to be with Trick Flow because of their valve angles. You won't be able to do that with Procomp I don't believe, not without fly cutting pistons. Trick Flow has also proven to be an amazing head in ported form. I vote Trick Flow have down.
1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
95 Cobra, Crystal White
Does anyone know if the trick flow package will clear the pistons? I know the heads will but what about the stage1 cam that comes in the kit?
That's what I'm running. I would still check ptv just for piece of mind. I bought my already Installed from a co worker who don't remember how much ptv clearance he had. I have a 86 stock bottom end.
Ok. How is the pull from around 1500 rpm? Does it spin the tires if you just punch it? I'm worried that the stage 1 cam is going to move the PowerBand up too high. I don't want something I have to rev to the moon to get it to perform. I'm looking for something that will pull super hard from 2k rpm on up
[QUOTEI'm looking for something that will pull super hard from 2k rpm on up[/QUOTE]
Aint going to happen. You will need to do a 460 swap
Yup, gear it 4.10 would be great!
1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
95 Cobra, Crystal White
Trick flow heads are twisted wedge which gives the needed intake valve clearance without notching the Pistons. trick flow all the way!
Cam wise, stay on the conservative side. You don't want or need as much as you think you do. Call up comp cams and tell them what you are doing, they will give you 1-2 great recommendations.
Anderson is another good one to talk to.
I started throwing mods at mine with 400K on it and I rev mine to the moon routinely. Unless it had terrible maintenance it will be just fine at 100K.
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