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  1. #1

    Default Driveshaft question

    I've been planning a 302 and AOD for my Zephyr, but I've been trying to figure out what driveshaft to use. I heard an Explorer 4.0 2wd driveshaft might work. In the salvage yard, I have access to several Fairmonts and Zephyrs with I6 and 4 cyls. There are also V6 LTDs and Marquis. I saw Tbirds and Cougars with V8s and V6s. Would a driveshaft from any of these work for my swap? If not, I'm probably just gonna try to make an Explorer driveshaft work. Thanks in advance!
    Matt
    1984 Thunderbird -- 1989 302 HO, GT40 heads w/ Trick Flow springs, E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Edelbrock 600 4bbl, 85 Mustang dizzy, Jegs o/r h pipe, Dynomax mufflers, Mustang AOD & shifter, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, Mustang front & rear sway bars, KYB 87-88 TC struts & shocks, and Mustang 11" front brakes.

    1988 Mustang GT hatch -- Explorer intake, GT40 heads with Trick Flow spring kit, Crane 1.7 rrs, E303 cam, 70mm MAF, 70mm throttle body, o/r H pipe, Dynomax mufflers, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 Deluxe handle, clutch quadrant & firewall adjuster, and 3.27s
    (86 Mercury Cougar 5.0, 89 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 5 speed, 80 Mercury Zephyr 4 door) sold

  2. #2

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    I ran a stock LTD one on mine for a long time. That was with both an AOD and T-5 with 8.8. I have an Explorer one now. Either of those will work. The F/Z ones will too IF the car had a 7.5. Many came with 6.75 (as mine did), and those will be too long. Aero t-bird and cougar are too short.

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    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #3
    4no mor
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    Default

    I used a driveshaft out of a 92 2wd, 4cyl, 5spd regular cab short box ranger... when I swapped a 351, Tremec 5spd, 8.8 combo into my 80 box top...

  4. #4

    Default

    I picked up one from a '96 2wd v6 Explorer a while back at the Pull a part. Haven't put it in yet though.
    Matt
    1984 Thunderbird -- 1989 302 HO, GT40 heads w/ Trick Flow springs, E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Edelbrock 600 4bbl, 85 Mustang dizzy, Jegs o/r h pipe, Dynomax mufflers, Mustang AOD & shifter, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, Mustang front & rear sway bars, KYB 87-88 TC struts & shocks, and Mustang 11" front brakes.

    1988 Mustang GT hatch -- Explorer intake, GT40 heads with Trick Flow spring kit, Crane 1.7 rrs, E303 cam, 70mm MAF, 70mm throttle body, o/r H pipe, Dynomax mufflers, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 Deluxe handle, clutch quadrant & firewall adjuster, and 3.27s
    (86 Mercury Cougar 5.0, 89 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 5 speed, 80 Mercury Zephyr 4 door) sold

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member LTDScott's Avatar
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    Yes, it'll work. See my thread about it here: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...r-LTD-Fairmont

    If anyone wants to buy mine, let me know. Shipping will suck though.
    85 Ford LTD LX: Four eyes and Four doors

    EFI swap, AFR 165 heads, 5-speed conversion, Cobra brakes, etc.

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    I ran a stock LTD one on mine for a long time. That was with both an AOD and T-5 with 8.8. I have an Explorer one now. Either of those will work. The F/Z ones will too IF the car had a 7.5. Many came with 6.75 (as mine did), and those will be too long. Aero t-bird and cougar are too short.
    So I was searching for driveshaft info and found something I'd never even heard of! I only knew about the 8.8" and 7.5" rear ends, I didn't realize there was another, smaller rear end. Learned something new. From what I've gathered after searching a bit more, it appears only the first couple/few years had the 6.75", after that they're 7.5"s (which is what mine is).

    Now, on to my question... I've got a used SN95 (from a '94) 8.8" rear end that I was going to put in my '82 Z7. Will the original driveshaft bolt up to the '94 rear end? Will the pinion flange be the same for the 7.5" that's in the car now and the '94 8.8" that would be going in?

    Thanks!
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    So I was searching for driveshaft info and found something I'd never even heard of! I only knew about the 8.8" and 7.5" rear ends, I didn't realize there was another, smaller rear end. Learned something new. From what I've gathered after searching a bit more, it appears only the first couple/few years had the 6.75", after that they're 7.5"s (which is what mine is).

    Now, on to my question... I've got a used SN95 (from a '94) 8.8" rear end that I was going to put in my '82 Z7. Will the original driveshaft bolt up to the '94 rear end? Will the pinion flange be the same for the 7.5" that's in the car now and the '94 8.8" that would be going in?

    Thanks!
    The rear bolts up the same. Only difference being the output shaft of the trans (in my case c6) and the length (4 door). I put a 8.8 in the rear of my box and got away with it.




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  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    I jacked up the Zephyr so I could take a look at the pinion flange and take measurements to compare to the "new" rear end. Unfortunately, I didn't think to take a picture of the 7.5" that's in the car now. It has a pinion flange, and then the U-joint bolts to the pinion flange with 4 bolts in a square pattern.

    I did get a picture of the "new" rear end. It doesn't have a pinion flange at all, it's got this U-bolt yoke instead. Is this normal for a '94/95 Mustang 8.8"? Based on how clean it is compared to the rest of the rear end, I'm thinking this was added at some point.
    Last edited by Patrick Olsen; 01-21-2020 at 11:16 AM.
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    You could just get the correct flange to match your driveshaft flange. That one in the picture is not the stock one. You might end up having to do a rebuild. The crush sleeve is supposed to be a one-time deal, although there are plenty of people who remove/re-install the flange in order to replace the pinion seal without doing a complete disassemble. Since this one looks to have been done once already, it's kind of a crapshoot.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    I prefer these types. Makes install easy and don’t have to deal with pain in the arse bolts. Get U joint caps for the style, 1310, 1330 or whatever you have.


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