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Thread: LTD LX Cobra

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  1. #1

    Default LTD LX Cobra

    I just got the LTD LX running with the new Engine. The Engine is from an 89 Mustang, with GT 40 Heads and Cobra intake, replaced the automatic with a T5 with Hurst Shifter. The Interior has also been updated using an 89 Mustang Dash and complete wire harness. The suspension was updated using SN 95 spindles, Cobra brakes, 8.8 rear end with 3.55 gears.
    The Engine is running great, ran a scanner tool and no codes. I am currently still finishing up the interior, but I thought I would post a few pics of what has been done so far. I will post more once is more completed.


  2. #2

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    Awesome! Sounds a lot like my car! I'm sure we'll be able to compare notes!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #3

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    It's very similar, although the LTD has a firewall nearly identical to the later 80's Mustang compared to the Fairmont, so nearly everything fit like the factory, except for the Windshield Wiper Motor from the 89 Mustang. The Wiper Motor fits fine with no hood, but you can't shut the hood completely with the Mustang Wiper Motor installed.
    Looking at the underside of the Mustang Hood, it has an dented area for the wiper motor to fit when the hood is closed, not so on the LTD hood, I tried clocking the wiper motor a few degrees, but still no go. So I will need to use the LTD motor, which is wired completely different (minor issue).
    I was happy that the Heater box, AC lines, Mass Air Fuel injection wire harness fit just like the factory. Other then the Wiper motor, the other oddity is the Hood Release, the one used in the LTD is too short, so the Mustang one needs to be used, also the Speedo cable is a bit short using the Mustang one, so the LTD Speedo cable should be used (although I did manage to use the Mustang Speedo cable, I had to reroute it so it didn't get to close to the exhaust). The main reason the speedo and hood release are different length is because of the location on the Original LTD Dash.
    The Head Lights and tail lights had to be rewired, along with the Fuel pump, but this was fairly easy and are working like they were installed by Ford.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Very nice. Mikee likes it!

    Two points:

    1) I don't think that air filter set up would work well in rain country like Portland.
    2) I installed a '90 Mustang wiper motor in my '78 Fairmont. It took about 45 minutes of careful tap-tap-tap with a variety of ball peen hammers.

    Mike

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-barrel Mike View Post
    Very nice. Mikee likes it!

    Two points:

    1) I don't think that air filter set up would work well in rain country like Portland.
    2) I installed a '90 Mustang wiper motor in my '78 Fairmont. It took about 45 minutes of careful tap-tap-tap with a variety of ball peen hammers.

    Mike
    Thanks!,
    I really wanted to use the Air Filter shown in the picture, but once the Fender and liner was installed, it didn't fit, so I installed a BBK Filter I had, which is more compact and fit inside the fender better. As for the Wiper Motor, I may try tapping the hood out, it was maybe a half inch off.

  6. #6

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    It wasn't obvious to me at the time (i lived without wipers on the car for years) but, the wire colors for the Zeph wiper motor are the same as those used on the Mustang harness. The main difference in the Mustang harness is there's an additional ground. I just ran it to the fender. Now, i have the Mustang switch and governor controlling the Zephyr wiper motor. Delay works and everything! As I recall, the Zephyr harness is 4 wires, and the Mustang harness is 6. 2 of the wires in the Mustang harness are grounds. The Zephyr setup has the motor being grounded to the firewall. The other 4 wires in the mustang harness had a corresponding wire in the Zephyr harness. Same colors and everything! So, there's no reason you can't use the LTD wiper motor.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member rodster's Avatar
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    Cool build! Love it. Dare to be different.

  8. #8

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    Very nice job so far, it looks factory. I have done a similar '92 mustang donor swap on a Ltd wagon and was able to renotch the firewall and make the windshield wiper motor assembly work. Will you be using the old ltd ebrake or use the foot ebrake ? Will you have to do anything special for smog/registration purposes?

    My swap started out as an auto 4 lug and was eventually switched to 5 lug 4wdb as well.

    Best of luck
    more foxes than cents

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by frinkspa View Post
    Very nice job so far, it looks factory. I have done a similar '92 mustang donor swap on a Ltd wagon and was able to renotch the firewall and make the windshield wiper motor assembly work. Will you be using the old ltd ebrake or use the foot ebrake ? Will you have to do anything special for smog/registration purposes?

    My swap started out as an auto 4 lug and was eventually switched to 5 lug 4wdb as well.

    Best of luck
    Thanks!, yeah I just put a small dent under the hood and was then able to fit the Mustang Wiper Motor. I am using the LTD Ebrake, I thought about using the Mustang Ebrake, but the Ebrake Mount is actually reinforced and welded in place. I could have cut out the Mustang Ebrake Mount and weld it into LTD, but I actually like the LTD Ebrake. On the LTD the Ebrake ends have about 3 feet on each side that can be removed, I just trimmed the Cobra Ebrake lines the same size and connected to the LTD Ebrake, works great!
    As for Smog, I do have all of the Smog equipment, including cats, installed and working correctly. I don't have to deal with smog checks where I live, but if I did, I don't see why it would not pass.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastlane View Post
    Thanks!, yeah I just put a small dent under the hood and was then able to fit the Mustang Wiper Motor. I am using the LTD Ebrake, I thought about using the Mustang Ebrake, but the Ebrake Mount is actually reinforced and welded in place. I could have cut out the Mustang Ebrake Mount and weld it into LTD, but I actually like the LTD Ebrake. On the LTD the Ebrake ends have about 3 feet on each side that can be removed, I just trimmed the Cobra Ebrake lines the same size and connected to the LTD Ebrake, works great!
    As for Smog, I do have all of the Smog equipment, including cats, installed and working correctly. I don't have to deal with smog checks where I live, but if I did, I don't see why it would not pass.
    What did you use to reattach the cable ends?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    What did you use to reattach the cable ends?
    The FoxBody LTD uses what appears to be the same Parking Brake as the Fairmont. I think the difference is at the end where it actually connects to rear brake. On the LTD, each end is connected to the Main parking brake cable with about 3 feet of cable, this 3 foot piece is replaceable. These (2) 3 foot ends is what I replaced with the Cobra Brake Cable with. I had to cut them to fit, then used this Lokar Parking Brake Block https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-s-8070 to connect the Cobra Brake line to the LTD Brake line. The Cobra Brake Lines I picked up from Rock Auto for $15.00 a piece http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...catalog%2Fford

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member David Claflin's Avatar
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    Looks nice, good job!!!
    1985 LTD LX, Mach1 brakes, 17" Mopar police car wheels. 302, T5, 4.10s
    1984 LTD station wagon, with 84GT nose, some might remember it as the old Dugan Racing station wagon.
    1986 FHP coupe, stock shortblock, TW heads, Holley SMII intake, 4.88, T5Z
    1990 Red LX, ported AFR heads, TFS-R box upper, weenie cam, 1 3/4 long accufabs, 3" exhaust, T5, 4.56

  13. #13

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    Thanks!! I was happy to fine such a rare car with 0 rust and no accidents.

  14. #14

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    Dude, that looks like a fun ride! Great job

  15. #15

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    Thanks, so far its been a fun build, I am still working on the interior, but its coming along fine so far.

  16. #16

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-barrel Mike View Post
    I didn't forget about you. I was just curious about another way to do it. By the looks of it, if i use that Lokar end things, I shouldn't have to worry about crimping new cable ends on the rear cables. Similar to what you did, i think i might go with Fox drum rear cables (because those Fox rear disc swap ones at LMR cost 4 times as much, and i'd be less happy about experimenting with them). Also, the sleeve lengths are less critical for me because i cut out my forward rear cable sleeve brackets (the ones seen in the first pic in your thread). Yes, that was dumb, but nevertheless, it happened.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  18. #18

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    Just posted! Eric The Car Guy builds Fairmont parking brake cables!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeyaFW1CFPY

    Pretty much the same as what Mike did. I hate him for having a welder though.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  19. #19
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    That was ok, I suppose. He could have planned ahead a little more.

    IMHO, there is absolutely no need to weld the formerly-crimped ends; they're captured and under some tension: they're not going anywhere.

    I DO NOT like his aggressive use of his grinder to clean parts: he's un-necessarily weakening them.

    The factory crimped, I believe.

    Mike

  20. #20

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    Yeah the Welding on the Cable is probably not the best idea. I was able to do most of what he was showing, except I used the Lokar https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-s-8070 part where Eric Welded the 2 nuts to the cable. I also use Bolt cutters to trim the cables, and this gave me very good cuts without melting any of the shielding, but cut off wheel will work fine too.

  21. #21

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    I have not posted in a while, The LTD is running fine, but like all projects, it need a few more updates before its completed. I have been working on the Mustang lately along with my Lightning Truck.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    1985 Ford LTD LX
    1989 Mustang 5.0 Coupe
    1994 Ford F150 Lightning

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member David Claflin's Avatar
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    Are you still running the factory K-member? Reason I ask is it looks like the camber is off a bit. I ran the factory K-member on mine for awhile, then swapped to one from my 90LX, and noticed the camber had more range. If you think of it next time you're under there measure from C/L to C/L of the front control arms forward most bolt. On the K-member now I get 22 1/4".
    Last edited by David Claflin; 03-30-2018 at 10:56 PM.
    1985 LTD LX, Mach1 brakes, 17" Mopar police car wheels. 302, T5, 4.10s
    1984 LTD station wagon, with 84GT nose, some might remember it as the old Dugan Racing station wagon.
    1986 FHP coupe, stock shortblock, TW heads, Holley SMII intake, 4.88, T5Z
    1990 Red LX, ported AFR heads, TFS-R box upper, weenie cam, 1 3/4 long accufabs, 3" exhaust, T5, 4.56

  23. #23

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    Yes I am using the Factory K-Member on the LTD. In the picture, the front end has not been aligned, so it may appear to be off. In the next couple months I plan on completing the project, currently working on welding in some sub-frame connectors using MM full lengths.
    1985 Ford LTD LX
    1989 Mustang 5.0 Coupe
    1994 Ford F150 Lightning

  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Claflin View Post
    Are you still running the factory K-member? Reason I ask is it looks like the camber is off a bit. I ran the factory K-member on mine for awhile, then swapped to one from my 90LX, and noticed the camber had more range. If you think of it next time you're under there measure from C/L to C/L of the front control arms forward most bolt. On the K-member now I get 22 1/4".
    Yeah, your right using the early stock V8 "K", and stock 89 control arms. I notice the wheels appeared to sit a little to far inside the fender and did seem to limit camber adjustment. I thought using the SN 95 spindles would move the wheels out more. Normally on the later V8 "K" member the wheels would stick out further.
    So instead of attempting to locate a later V8 "K" member, I used SN 95 control arms. I found this works better then using a later V8 "K' member, since the arms are longer I now have plenty of camber adjustment. The wheels also fit much better and I am now able to use coil over's without having to use a spacer. I did have to use SN 95 inner and outer tie rod ends, which work fine with the older rack and pinion (next upgrade will be to replace the rack with SN 95 and the MM steering shaft). In the rear, I am currently using 1 inch spacers to correctly line up the front and rear wheels.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    1985 Ford LTD LX
    1989 Mustang 5.0 Coupe
    1994 Ford F150 Lightning

  25. #25

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    I did install the MM sub frame connectors. The most obvious difference is they are a little too short, so to make up the difference I used the "Plates" from the SVE sub frame connectors (sold by LMR) I had for another car . These "Plate's" (pictured in the LMR link) actually covers the rear section where the end of the sub frame connector attaches, not sure if LMR sells these separately, but I'm sure they can easily be made.
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-FULLSUBS/79...ame-Connectors
    The Fox body LTD has one other difference when installing the sub frame connectors, the seat mounts don't line up at all. 1 of the mounts can be attached with some modding, but the other 3 need new holes drilled. Other then these 2 issues the sub frame connectors installed fine.
    1985 Ford LTD LX
    1989 Mustang 5.0 Coupe
    1994 Ford F150 Lightning

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