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  1. #1

    Default Question for the day: What returns or springs the ignition actuator rod and key back

    Sorry for so many little questions early. I searched the forum and found people talking about bad ignition switches where they are loose from the metal mounting bracket, places where the actuator rod broke and the switch no longer is moved but I haven't seen anyone directly say what pushes the key back to run after its in start position and you let go. I have taken my switch off the column and it is tight to the metal support. There are no electrical issues because of looseness but my key doesn't return. I see a spring in the switch but that seems to be retained by some kind of tab and it doesn't do anything. It is a very stiff spring. I can slide the switch back and forth with a screwdriver but it's me moving it not that spring. I looked up at the actuator rod and that and the key move freely and there is no spring in the sleeve where the rod is retained. I do see that when you buy an actuator rod that some adds say "spring not included." Am I missing a spring? See attached pictures. Thanks. Have a great weekend.
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  2. #2
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    The key return spring is built into the ignition switch.
    Positive push back from start to on/run. Not sure of any real spring assist to other positions.
    Main parts: key/tumbler, rod, switch, wire harness connector, 2 bolts.

    Finally replaced mine last year.
    Was not quite returning to the correct on/run position after start.
    Then had to move the key backwards a tiny bit so the heater blower would come on, but not kill engine.
    New ignition switch cured the problem.
    Has more of a normal firm resistance moving key to start.

    Turned key to lock position, battery disconnected, per shop manual.
    Before removing, did mark a bolt position in the switch slots. Will not next time.
    Did not know if new switch would need indexing to exactly match old position.
    The new switch slider was not locked down, but it indexed itself once the rod was inserted.
    Bolted switch in loosely, wiggled switch to center any slack, tightened, reconnected power wires.
    No followup readjustments of any kind have been needed.

  3. #3

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    So is the spring on the ignition switch you speak of the one my screwdriver is pointing to in the picture? I went to NAPA today and they had one in stock and it felt the exact same but I guess the key must push that switch into the spring more so then my screwdriver did or just enough to return it. When the key is back in the run position it doesn't take much pressure or movement back toward the off position to kill the power. Almost like the detent or whatever holds it in the run position is gone of sloppy. I guess that is in the switch itself as well? In the key tumbler there is no type of return spring built in correct? It is just meant to turn free?

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    There is no return spring that I am aware of in the steering column or the key cylinder itself that I am aware of. All of the return spring action should be in the ignition switch itself.

    The ignition switch itself does have some for for and aft adjustment to ensure that you engage the switch correctly. If not positioned correctly the key cylinder will not have enough spring pressure against it for it to return to the run position.
    ​Trey

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  5. #5

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    Sounds good. Since the stuff is so cheap I will probably just order a new lock set and ignition switch and see how it goes. Thanks.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Pretty sure recalling the spring is at the dash end of the switch.
    Old one is around here somewhere. Am one that keeps certain old takeoff parts for further study.
    The old switch had play in the run position. High mile daily driver wear. New one has no play.
    Spring wear, housing crack, detent wear. Whatever. It was time.
    I replaced the key lock cyl because one day it fell apart, no warning.

    There was the memory of the GM recall for faulty detent plungers in their switches.
    And after reading details of the Ford 88-93 switch fire recall too:
    http://www.autonews.com/article/2014...-investigation.
    http://www.ibtimes.com/gm-recall-201...dearly-1561011
    https://www.autosafety.org/ford-ignition-switch-fires/

    Like you say, cost vs result is valid. The safe side.
    Could try to adjust the current one by loosening the bolts and sliding switch fore/aft.

    Other deal is new ignition key cyl will have a new key and code.
    It wont open door if one key did both without re-coding one or the other.
    Mine used to be one, is now two, actually 3 keys counting hatch/glove box.
    No big deal, except the door and ignition key look alike.
    Slip on colored key identifiers solve that. The car's graphics are orange: door key has orange id ring.

    Even if low miles, 80's formula plastics, like dash pads, panels, wiring, deteriorate with age.
    32 years is a good service life.

  7. #7

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    Yep I am just going to replace the whole deal. Ordering tomorrow. Started messing with the fog lights the previous owner couldn't get working and I got one to work. The other H2 bulb seems to be no good so ordering replacements for them tomorrow and also took the dash down today because the turn signal indicator lights don't work and I am looking into replacing all those bulbs with LEDs.

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