short throw shifter

[dtmilsap]

I am thinking a buying a short throw shifter. I like the Steeda, but at 185.00 is alot of $. Has anyone tried one of the cheaper one's that cost around 60 to 80 $. If so how good does it work. Car will not see track just daily driver.

[wraithracing]

I personally want the MGW shifter, but it's even more expensive than most at $209, but the adjust-ability and multiple shifter handles makes a huge difference for my seating position in the car.

Here is a Steeda on Ebay for you that's cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STEEDA-TRI-A...lXiBRb&vxp=mtr

There was a discussion on here about another less known brand that many liked, but I can't remember the name. I think it started with a 'C', but I will have to do some searching.

[dtmilsap]

Thanks

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[gr79]

One with a 'C' that gets an 'A' by me:
http://core-shifters.com/
Good reading on shifters

Got one of their products last year. Just the base in a custom configuration.
Already had the Hurst lever and knob i wanted to use.
Works perfectly. Very solid feel. EZ swap, no adjusting needed.

Careful planning per site guidelines and config recommendation per email resulted in exactly what/where i wanted/needed.

Base, lever, knob, add up about the same cost no matter what brand.

[wraithracing]

http://core-shifters.com/

That's the one! I couldn't think of the name to save my . . . God! I am getting old!

[dtmilsap]

Will ck them out. Thanks

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[Mousemate]

I have a core-shifter and have had no issues.
I didn't realize how short throw it was until I got my jeep and then drove my mustang.
wow I was shocked...

[dtmilsap]

Looked at the core shifters, look real nice especially the one's with the boot and console plates. May pull the trigger next week. Just gotta figure out what to tell the if notices the bank account lower by a couple hundred.

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[86FOX4EYE]

I did the math and bought a Core with a 3.6 fulcrum and used a Hurst #7438 stick. It works outstanding. Has a throw of about 4" with the 11" stick. The ball is up close to the wheel where i like it.

[dtmilsap]

Nice interior.

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[86FOX4EYE]

Nice interior.

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Thanks. It's an 86 Vert I bought out of Jersey a few months ago.

[gr79]

On the subject of a short throw shifter:
What i wonder..

T-5
Any shifter assy
If the shift lever is in a gate- 1st, 2nd, whatever

How much fore/aft travel is normal before crossing into the 'neutral zone'?
How much should the lever move in the gate straight?

1"?
2"?
More?

Mine is 2
Side to side is good and solid.

Have not checked others with similar trans.
Shop manual has nothing.
Cup bushing looked fine.

[gr79]

Thanks. It's an 86 Vert I bought out of Jersey a few months ago.

I have almost the exact Core setup, but with the Hurst 8009 flat lever.
Will never go back to stock or try any other base. Its perfect.

How far does your lever move in a gate?
Say F to B in 1st without pulling into the neutral gate.
We know sideways is not an issue, nor are finding gears.

I like the setup because i grip mostly with thumb on top of knob, first two fingers around knob, the rest below. Palm sideways.
The higher knob allows arm and hand to stay a lot straighter and higher.
More comfortable than awkward bent wrist or palm down for stock or short levers, elbow bumping console bin.
Elbow winds up between console bin and seat in the bottom gates.

Best part is the higher closer knob position to the wheel allows grabbing a very quick shift without keeping hand on shifter all the time.
Now can have two hands on the wheel a lot more, where they should be.
Makes shifting a lot more fun and less tiring. Not something you wish you did not have to do most of the time.
No more staying in the wrong gear longer or steering one handed because of traffic, up and down hills, curves, etc.

[86FOX4EYE]

I have almost the exact Core setup, but with the Hurst 8009 flat lever.
Will never go back to stock or try any other base. Its perfect.

How far does your lever move in a gate?
Say F to B in 1st without pulling into the neutral gate.
We know sideways is not an issue, nor are finding gears.

I like the setup because i grip mostly with thumb on top of knob and fingers below, palm sideways.
The higher knob allows arm and hand to stay a lot straighter and higher.
More comfortable than awkward bent wrist or palm down for stock or short levers.

Best part is the higher closer knob position to the wheel allows grabbing a very quick shift without keeping hand on shifter all the time.
Now can have two hands on the wheel a lot more, where they should be.
Makes shifting a lot more fun and less tiring. Not something you wish you did not have to do most of the time.
No more staying in the wrong gear longer or steering one handed because of traffic, up and down hills, curves, etc.

When the shifter is in first there is zero movement fore aft or side to side. That goes for all gears really. The exact throw is hard to measure without a jig but in the car the shift throw from 1st to 2nd is about 4". 3rd to 4th is about 4". 4th to 5th is just a tick longer but having the ball close to the wheel and high up make it really hard to notice. I am 6' 6". My arms are long and anything shorter stick wise has my elbows crashing into the console pad when I am driving hard. When I am cruising the longer stick is more relaxing because I sometimes underhand the ball. Core makes a shifter with a 4.6" fulcrum (as opposed to the 3.6" i have now) that I have thought about trying just out of curiosity. That would reduce the throw a bit more with the same set-up (with added shifting effort of course). I just haven't gotten around to it.

[82GT5.0L]

UPR or TriAx are both good, positive stops, well machined, less $

[gr79]

Thank you for the quick info, 82.
It was shifting like the stock base was still in.

For a bit, was thinking it may be trans time.

Had a hunch to pull the boots up.
I dunno must have been in a hurry one day.
The stick bolts were loose ready to fall out.
To make matters worse,
Had the stick on the drivers side of stub, no serrations on either piece.
The rubber insulator was installed too.

Trial tightening both stick bolts resulted in no play, like new again.

Reinstalled the stick with serrations matching the stub serrations again like it was.
And like Core says to do.
Deleted the rubber thing.
The pass side of stub has serrations to match up with the stick if installed on that side of stub.

Going to buy longer flange bolts, flange nuts, and lock washers today.
1.5 or 1.75 long bolts will allow nuts and lock washer.
The 1" ones always seem to work loose no matter what.
I did this mod on the stock base but never got around to doing this one.

[cb84capri]

Thought i would check out these Core shifters since they are all the rage lately. Since i have actually been inside of t5s and tr3550s i can tell you this:

It does not have stops and does not need them - all modern internal rail trans have internal stops.

is a load of bs. That's off of their website. I have been inside of t5s and tr3550s/tko transmissions. You're hooked up to cast aluminum shift forks in a t5 and 3550/tkos. If you decide to shift it like a man with a shifter that doesn't have stops, you are exerting that force onto the shift fork which gets stopped by the synchro assembly which is trying to move further than it needs to. Then you get to take out your transmission that's stuck in gear and replace the broken shift fork because they lied to you or don't know what they're talking about. A cast aluminum shift fork might still break because it's a P.O.S. by design, but with shifter stops you're preventing failure by the #1 cause. The rubber isolator on the stock handle is a half-assed solution to the problem on that cheap piece.

Looks like MGW, Steeda, Pro 5.0, and Hurst are still the best options. If you bought one of these Core shifters, don't slam the gears with it. The $40 ebay shifter even has stops on it...

Cale

[86FOX4EYE]

I have never had a problem with even the stock shifter. I just didn't like its position. The Core was the best solution for me.

Thanks
Matthew

[gr79]

Yah the stock shifter is fine unless a long lever is swapped in.

Dunno about stops. I suppose if one needs them that is why they are out there.
Most of these cars are daily drivers or show/cruise use.
Rarely race at the track, or have gears jammed hard enough to harm a trans.

Never mastered power shifting, had the nerve to, or had a car fast enough to warrant doing that.
Would have to go with a more consistent modded automatic when it got to that point.

[Tutu-late]

I put a MGW shifter in my 1986 SVO daily drive and LOVE it! Probably the best early upgrade I could have made.

[Broncojunkie]

Since this thread is about the cheap shifters, I'll throw my $.02 in here.

I bought one of the $40(ish) ebay specials a couple years ago for a project and never used it. The other day, I picked up a 98gt that needed a little work. One of the problems was a loose shifter. I was hoping it wasn't a shift fork issue, because I wasn't planning on doing any major repairs. I remembered I had that shifter still in the box. I replaced it and it made a HUGE difference. Shifts feel tight and very positive. It is VERY short...almost too short. I'm going to have to adjust it. There are bolt holes to use 2 different mounting locations for the upper shift lever. I used the lowest setting, but I think the higher setting would put it where I want it. Everything, as far as install, seemed to line up perfectly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACING-SHORT...tXSNex&vxp=mtr

[quickshift]

I use a Hurst Pro Billit with button in handle for the line lok.

[ashley roachclip]

Steeda Tri axe , had it 10 plus years .
Works perfectly.
Yes you do need a shifter with adjustable stops , for the T5 , when you dump the junk factory unit.

[5.0 bird]

I have a Kirban Kwik shifter in my '88, and I've been very happy with it so far. I'd put it somewhere between a Steeda Tri-ax and a Pro 5.0.





I really liked the Pro 5.0 I had in my LSC too.

[83gt351w]

Gotta say, I've driven a car with one, and loved it so much, bought it for mine. Maryland Gun Works, hands down.