Doesn't the old harness (below) need to be spliced into the new one?!
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Doesn't the old harness (below) need to be spliced into the new one?!
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If you're referring to the 2 thicker black wire coming from the flat spade connector, then those may or may not be used with a 3g swap. Most people run a new heavier gauge cable from the charging lug on the back of the alternator, which looks like was done to yours. So those two can be removed. They may have left them to keep from cutting up the original harness. The cheap way is to cut off the plug, twist the two black wires together and attach them to the lug with a ring connector.
By the way...that heavy cable attached to your alternator should have a nice big fuse or breaker somewhere inline. Can't tell if yours has one in the pic, but you definitely need one.
I re-grounded the pigtail ground. Added two 4g ground wires to the back of the cylinder head. One bolted to sway bar mount the other to the pigtail mounted on the inner fender.
With the vehicle idling @ 1100 RPM... My electric water pump, my auxiliary fans on, hi beams & blower motor on high...
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There's a couple wires that need spliced in from the original harness. I would check to see if the alternator is actually being 'signaled' to start charging.
One of the terminals on the alt receives battery voltage, which kicks it on.
'88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.
The power wiring to the battery isn't sufficifant enough to carry the voltage. I ran 8 gauge cable for the alt to a circuit breaker, then to the battery. But I did reuse the factory wiring, I just installed a new D-plug, and wired it accordingly.
I have a 4ga power wire with a fuse
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If I remember correctly, there should be a wire (white maybe?) ran to a single spade connector on the voltage regulator...back of alternator. If 1fst86 is correct, you may just be running off battery power.
If your alternator is working properly, but not giving you enough charging amps to run all of your accessories, then you should be able to feel excessive heat coming from your alternator. I had my 130a 3g wired correctly, but my fan controller was adjusted incorrectly. The fan was kicking on and running too much. This drew too many amps. As a result, the alternator got so hot I couldn't keep my hand on it.
Run the car again, at idle, with all accessories turned on. If voltage is low, it should be producing power. Let it run 5 or 10 minutes. If it gets hot, that's a good sign you are asking too much of it. If it's cool and still showing low voltage, then it's most likely not charging.
By the way...do you know how many amps your alternator is rated for? They're not all 130a. I think some are low as 100 (which is still a significant amount better than stock).
This is negative to the voltage regulator in alternator while the car is running
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I'd take it off and have it bench tested at the parts store.
Where did the alternator come from? Was it new or used?
This is a write up I did a few years ago when I did this in my '79 Bronco. Prior to this one I did one in a '84 Bronco, '76 F100, and my '86 Mustang. The wire colors involved were the same for every one of these installs. I hope this helps.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...into-79-a.html
Richard
1986 Mustang LX v8 t5 conversion
1986 Mustang LX 2.3 Auto - Acquired 2-27-13
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2549044
My other "4 eye" is a '67 Cutlass
If the 130 comes up bad, just rebuild it.
'88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.
Your seeing negative voltage because you have the meter leads hooked up backwards. I see a red lead on the ground wire.
I wired the two orange/black wires onto the back with the same result. This thik yellow wire puzzles me. Anybody know what it does?
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The 95AMP I have has the same problem... I'm clueless at this point
Your alternator needs to be hooked up like this. I have had mine set up like this for over 60,000 miles.
Dave
If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?
1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
1983 Capri RS Turbo
1981 Black Magic 400 c6
93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4
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