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Thread: 79 cobra build

  1. #26

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    Name:  20161129_190216.jpg
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Size:  96.3 KB I thought these all had 3.45 gears un them. I don't believe this is even the axle for this car. It also seems to have progressive springs in it

  2. #27

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    Only the 2.3 turbo cars had 3.45. The 5.0l cars had either 2.47 (what this tag is) or 3.08
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  3. #28
    FEP Power Member Fearnot's Avatar
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    Cool deal!!!
    88 Turbo Coupe auto
    88 Turbo Coupe 5spd
    79 Fairmont Futura 4.6
    79 Capri RS - 2.3/5spd restomod
    80 Capri 5.0/5spd project
    79 Zephyr Z7 factory 5.0 sunroof
    79 Pace Car 5.0/5spd project
    85 LTD LX factory 5spd?(not documented)
    86 GT conv 5.0/5spd
    79 Pace Car 2.3/4spd - needs new home

  4. #29

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    Name:  20161210_190645.jpg
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Size:  105.1 KB santa popped by early

  5. #30

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    I'm starting to see this project spiraling out of control. Looking forward to tomorrow, the wife is supposed to take the kids to gramagrampas house. That means me vs. frame rails and radiator support with no interruptions

  6. #31

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    Name:  20161211_113512.jpg
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Size:  110.6 KBName:  20161211_113323.jpg
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Size:  126.0 KB I'm going to need 12 tetanus shots after today. A drill doctor is your best friend. I have a spot weld cutter. Gonna throw it in the trash. Best way, 2 cordless drills. 1/8" -ish in one, and 3/8" -ish in the other and a couple chisels and a REAL stiff gasket scraper that will be ruined when done

  7. #32
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Wow. This looks interesting. Above my pay grade for sure. I love how you deal with finding parts. Just buy another car. Can't wait for more progress.

    And to answer an old question, I used my fox arms, and pressed in new ball joints with poly bushing. If I were to do it over, I would go with the Ford Low friction ball joints. I used Moog, while good, not the same as Ford's. And Fords are not much more money.

  8. #33

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    I was going to scrap about 5 cars when I'm done, to make the wife happy... but parts are getting harder to come by and well a $200 dollar car can yield alot of parts for me and others. Which helps pay for my disease. Plus they don't all necessarily rust the same. Also I went with the moog ones for the sn95. For the money I didn't feel like pushing new bushings and ball joints in. On a street car rubber will prolly be a nicer ride

  9. #34

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    Name:  20170101_125729.jpg
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Size:  166.0 KB brought this home today for no real reason. It was mentioned to me in passing that it was going to the scrapyard. I don't really need any of it. Well, maybe a couple little things. 5.0 5 speed gt black interior...and someone already put in an 8.8 with tubular control arms
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 01-01-2017 at 01:39 PM.

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Name:  20170101_125729.jpg
Views: 454
Size:  166.0 KB brought this home today for no real reason. It was mentioned to me in passing that it was going to the scrapyard. I don't really need any of it. Well, maybe a couple little things. 5.0 5 speed gt black interior...and someone already put in an 8.8 with tubular control arms
    Nice! Craploads of nice parts on that one.

  11. #36

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    ...and that's what this one will be. Parts. There's a hole the size of a tire in the pass floor and the front frame rails have succumb already. And I'm told that at least one side torque box is ripped out
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 01-01-2017 at 02:26 PM.

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Does anyone have an opinion on front control arms, blast and powder coat old ones push a new balljoint in and add urethane bushings, or, new arms with new rubber bushings and balljoints.
    I'm going to reuse my factory FCA's and just put poly bushings and new balljoints in them. IMO, it is the most economical way to go.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  13. #38

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    I actually bought moog replacement arms from rock auto. I think $90 each. Well worth it in my opinion, versus wrestling in new bushings and ball joints. Plus fresh paint to boot

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Nice! Craploads of nice parts on that one.
    ^^^^^I agree with him!

    If you by chance end up selling anything off of it, pm me as I might be interested in some of it. I'm only a couple hours from ya and have bought some stuff from 5.0Notchback also. He is the one I got the 84 1/2 front bumper from my car is wearing now.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  15. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    I actually bought moog replacement arms from rock auto. I think $90 each. Well worth it in my opinion, versus wrestling in new bushings and ball joints. Plus fresh paint to boot
    I hear ya, I saw you posted that up earlier. Guess that's what I get for reading a thread from the beginning and not from the end.

    You got some work ahead of ya but it looks like you got it under control. I'm really glad mine didn't come from this part of the country. I hate rust!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #41

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    I pmd you 84stangsvt. Not sure if it worked

  17. #42

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    Name:  20170108_175454.jpg
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Size:  137.7 KB the better part of a days work. Lower radiator support and right side frame rail. I spliced the support at 2 places on each side for strength and to hide welds under the frame rail plug welds. I used my construction laser to level the car and to set the frame rail respective to the left side. I measured, measured and lasered and did I say measured the front end. I feel that is less than a 1/16 out, at least as good as original. Note the somewhat far pic. There's nothing to look at close until Ive dressed up all the welds and filled in the extra holes. No real body experience or tools, except my ball peen hammer a couple punches and a prybar, welder and grinder. I'll post up again when the other side is done and prepped for paint. thanks for checking in on me

  18. #43
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Looks like you are making great progress!

    Congratulations! I know what a PITA and how much fun all that work is.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  19. #44

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    Patience is the most important tool I n the toolbox. And everyday we get closer to spring the harder it is. It's really not that bad though, just takes time. Not trying to take away from the job, it's more than most would attempt. I'm just not afraid to do much of anything.

  20. #45
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Patience is the most important tool I n the toolbox. And everyday we get closer to spring the harder it is. It's really not that bad though, just takes time. Not trying to take away from the job, it's more than most would attempt. I'm just not afraid to do much of anything.
    I completely agree. I have done several front clips and radiator supports over the years and always about 1/2 way thru I just want to be DONE with it! Usually have to take a short break, maybe an adult beverage, and then start again.

    I need to find pictures of a 68 Mustang I did for a customer years ago. At one point we had the entire back end cut apart with the only OEM pieces still in place being the frame rails. Needless to say the customer was shocked and worried it would never get back together!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  21. #46
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Frame repair is looking good.

    JT

  22. #47

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    Trouble is, wife only takes kids over the river and through the woods once a month, and I pay for it when she gets home with 2 grouchy kids.

  23. #48

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    Name:  2017-01-16 21.32.32.jpg
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Size:  618.5 KB shane 1. Framerail 0. Still need a bit of touch up a small amount of filler and some epoxy primer. Started cutting the other side free tonight. Didn't get to far. Gonna have to stop out at my bone yard and cut a small amount to fix the bottom of the steering bracket in the firewall. Easy when you have a half dozen foxes laying around

  24. #49

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    Question as a put my next parts order together. Struts. I have searched all over and found much conflicting info on the subject. I am using all sn 95 front end, k members,arms, spindles. Soooo, sn struts or fox struts. I'm stock height in the rear with kyb non adjustable shocks. Trey, I'm kinda looking at you here. I don't want to use cc plate if I don't need them and wish to stay stock height in the front too

  25. #50
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I am not a KYB fan, so I can not nor will I recommend them!

    With that said, basically if you order front struts for an 87-04 Mustang you will be just fine.

    I personally like the Tokico blues (if you can find them ) if you want a good performance strut, but still retain a decent ride quality.

    The Eibach struts/shocks are a decent option again if you want some performance, but don't want to lose all your ride quality.

    After that Koni's are always a good choice depending on what you want/need.

    The Bilstein are still my go to setup for most of my Foxes when performance is my top priority.

    I highly recommend matched setups front and back, but understand budget concerns. The other big question is what spring rates are you going with as you want to match your struts and shocks to your springs for the best handling and best ride quality.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

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